SurferD

This brings back fond and not so fond memories of doing the same thing with my drivetrain. Be sure to check the rear diff strap holders bolted to the tunnel. Mine were rusty and flaking apart. Luckily I had a machine shop I was friends with fabricate new ones out of 3/16 stainless. They even wrote a cad program and used a laser cutter and bent them just like the stock ones. All the work will pay off in the end.

Cyanoacrylate adhesives do not flex so I’d stay away from that type for seals. I also use the 3M and it’s great. The key is to let both surfaces get non-tacky before applying them together. 3M 777 is also good for other applications.

I have poly on both sides and the extra stiffening didn’t have any adverse affects. maybe the later, heavier cars have more stress and need one side rubber.

View Advert 1975 280Z hood FS Overall solid with no dents clearing out the shed and I’m not going to use it. Advertiser SurferD Date 02/08/2022 Price $450 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert 1988 300ZX NA for resto or parts Car needs bodywork. GLL model with digital dash and leather seats. Doesn’t run but sputters with starting fluid. I suspect old fuel. Advertiser SurferD Date 07/26/2021 Price $2,500 Category Cars for Sale Year 1988 Model 300ZX Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Jn1hz14s2jx273852

View Advert 1988 300ZX NA Car isn’t currently running but has a new battery and will sputter with starting spray. I think it needs new gas. Would make a good restoration or parts car. Interior parts are all there. No factory radio. Advertiser SurferD Date 06/18/2021 Price $2,400.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1988 Model 300ZX Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) JN1HZ14S2JX273852

Agreed take them down to metal. Where did you find them? I need the same parts as I’m sure every S30 owner does.

View Advert 1988 300ZX Z31 $3k Selling a non running Z31. It turns over but I can’t get it started. It did catch after spraying staring fluid. May be something simple. 89k miles. GLL model with leather and cruise. Needs body work and interior to be put back together and cleaned. Good for a resto or parts car. Currently on CL in CT. https://newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/d/orange-1988-nissan-300zx-z31/7301859363.html Advertiser SurferD Date 04/10/2021 Price $3,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1988 Model 300ZX Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) Jn1hz14s2jx273852

I have BFGoodrich Radial T/A’s. size 225/60R14 and they are great. Plenty of grip and they are wide enough to look mean. Very old school looking.

Finally that what it’s supposed to look like thanks

Yes now I agree it’s not that bad a price. I wonder if the internal baffles are the same too. From their site they do some serious restorations They probably cut one up and copied it.

$660 shipped to USA seems a bit high priced. And you need to modify the car too. “To fit on a US market car you have to delete the smog return line that starts from the left front inner-fender.” Aside from that, it’s a great looking part that no one else is doing. I like that it’s galvanized and painted.

Can’t see it. Who is doing reproductions?

good find I have a 1971 FSM but didn't verify if it has the procedure

I finished refurb’ing mine. I obviously used paint and not plating. I don’t know what initial pressure setting to use so I adjusted until there wasn’t much resistance. To tighten its counterclockwise. The bellows is under a good amount of compression so it was a little hard to assemble. I upgraded the screws and lock washers to stainless also. As you can see I changed the set screw due it having to drill out the original. Interestingly they changed the bracket configuration on later models and took out the reinforcements.

so what does the designation on the shaft end mean? I got a backup today and it's marked 71B6 compared to my original 66PH15. Maybe it's a lot number or date code. Probably one of those things we'll never know.

I had a huge mouse nest in mine on the right side. The drain is rather large and empties out directly on the inside of the fender thus all the corrosion in that area on every S30 made.

another brilliant answer

I wonder if that orifice equalizes pressure on both sides.

Haha yea if you say something with enough confidence no one doubts you. I’m always learning something about these cars.

You always know Cap!

I don't have that upper part. My FSM has the same picture but it's not as crisp. The barrel actually deformed when the brass shaft was hammered out. So I took a washer the exact ID size and a long socket and put it in the vise and viola' back to stock shape. I did get a backup on eBay in case this one fails. I did learn however from carpartsmanual there were different units for automatic/standard transmissions and years. Mine is stamped 66P15.

That was a great explanation thanks! The crimp on the aluminum ring failed but I was able to tap the brass out. I'll drill/tap the ring to M6x1.0 and use a new set screw and restake it in the steel barrel. The bellows shaft was really corroded so after cleaning/lube it will work fine. I also got the main part taken apart like the pics above and it's now free to rotate if adjustment is needed. Looks like both diaphragms are in decent shape after 50 years.

I know this is an old topic but does anyone know if the bellows screws out or is it a slip fit just held in by the set screw? My set screw broke so I had to drill it out but the bellows is still stuck. I don't want to ruin the bellows.

A lot of good work that will pay off in structural rigidity. I PM'd you about the tray if you still have it.