SurferD

Great, I just put in Lucas in both my Z and WRX! They scored worst in almost all categories.

I know plenty of punches are still around, I think I have a set myself, but I wanted the same font as the punched plate that didn't look hand done as far as spacing and what I got is very close.

Mike McGinnis of Banzai s a really good guy and his stuff is cheaper than most other places. He says that MSA/Dragon actually buy from him. I got a engine bay VIN plate from him because mine was badly corroded. It was about $5 cheaper than anywhere else. I brought it to a place that makes trophies and had it engraved. Unfortunately no one does stamping anymore but it came out great.

Thanks, I'm sure the wires weren't modified since the car was from the original owner and he wasn't a mechanic and there's no evidence of splices anywhere. I have a original FSM with the schematics. I think it's supposed to be as Jim stated above.

Yea Frank is a Z freak. I know, for a small club we have a far reach. I'll ask next time I see him.

Get rid of them, they mess with the swirl and flow. I cut mine off with a sawzall, drilled the passages, tapped the holes and used a bolt. then welded the tops and bottoms. You could just use a bolt and gasket, cheap and easy.

TX is a long way from CT, how are you an CTZCC member?

That's exactly what I wanted to know! Thanks!

OK I checked and the top two in each assembly is a 3-wire with 1157 two filament bulb. The lower two are 2-wire1156 single filaments. However I don't see any green with red stripe on the left. Still my question is which should be flashing for each operation? For example, does the hazard flasher make all three blink? Does the turn signal make just the outer two blink? Do the brakes make just the top two blink? Or is it supposed to be all three all the time no matter what switch is used?

After driving for about half an hour my signals stopped working. I attribute it to 45 year old flasher relays. I ordered new Tridon EL12 units for both. I also took apart the signal switch contact box and they were a little toasted so I cleaned them with green Scotch Brite. My question is simple but perplexing. Which of the three lights in the housing are supposed to come on during the signal and hazard and brake operation? Mine have all three lit for signal/hazard and braking. I saw a YouTube video with the signals only lighting the side two.

Sounds better than mine did when I got it. Mine's a same matching numbers late 70 build. I got it in May of 2013 for $3300. I have both floor pans that were replaced a long time ago using rivets and some sort of filler, both rear doglegs/fender lips need replacing, side swipe dent on the right door/dogleg, heavy corossion everywhere. But it runs and drives and I have done lots to it. Definitely buy it! They are only going up in price.

"unless you count vroom noises while sitting in a pile of parts." LMAO Thanks for the update. I'm still interested in emblems as mine are crusty with corrosion.

The series 1 shifter is straight while yours is curved. I have a spare curved if you're interested. PM me

Any sheet metal good? I could use a rad support and quarters. Emblems?

It looks like a great car. If what he says is true abou tthe provenance that makes it better. A lot of times the engine bay was painted black by an owner. It was just fashionable then.

Sounds good

If you do run rubber lines under the battery you should make some sort of shield to prevent acid from getting on the lines. A piece of roof flashing would work. Make a longways bend in it to give it some strength.

That's the way they're attached to the tank in the back anyway.

I'd just use a new one. That's pretty bad.

Somebody's having BBQ this weekend!

I just did this job Wed 4/15 I replaced both lines to the fuel rail and filter from front to back. I happened to be working on the rear suspension and decided to clean up the lines a bit. When I touched them they both started leaking because the corossion was so bad and the wall thickness was less than paper thin. I'm surprised I didn't have a leak sooner. The tubing holders were also rusty and most of the heads broke off the screws. (Thanks Nissan for using 4mm fine thread hardware) I used 3 pieces of each size 3/16 and 5/16 tubing with flare fittings. You don't have to do the whole length if it's still good. Just cut the bad part out and use a new piece where needed then flare the old line. A regular flaring tool sucks to get into small places but Cal-Van maks a cool inline flare tool. I saw theclassictube site and it looks promising but good luck getting the line in around the sharp bend near the firewall. I had to make a much larger radius turn because my bending tool was too big and the 5/16 started flattening. I assume since your engine is out your tranny is too so you have plenty of room to work. My cost other than time was about $50. If you have any doubt about the integrity of the lines replace them. If it's light rust then you can sand it. It's a crappy job but it's better than a leak or fire. So get under there and inspect the lines.

I just may do that. I'm pretty active on the CT Z car club site and document stuff there a lot. The diff strap brackets were so bad I couldn't use them after blasting. I had a friend at a machine shop make me a set with bushings out of 316 stainless steel. I have a serious case of "while I'm at it"! Of course the fuel lines were a safety thing. I'm surprised they didn't leak before. Everyone should check theirs for corrosion and replace if needed. It's not easy but can save you from a bad leak or worse, losing your Z in a fire. Here's a few of the crusty diff and shafts.

Thanks for the encouragement. This fall/winter what started as a simple rear shock replacement became a complete disassembly of the all rear suspension and driveline components. It's because I couldn't get the spindle pins out. Everything was either media blasted or wire wheeled and repainted. New wheel bearings and I used new hardware where I could or refurbished the old stuff. Today I replaced both fuel lines because as I was putting stuff back they started leaking. All the corossion on them made them so thin any movement caused cracks. Hopefully in the next few weeks everything's back together so I can drive it again. I have the same Appliance wheels you had on the 72.

Hey Hardway that's a beauty. So much detail work is what makes the difference. I'm doing mine much the same as you but you have a much better starting point. My car was in CT it's whole life and has been stored outside for the last 6 years. I really enjoy your progress reports.