Driver_X

100% polarity doesn't matter for injector connections. Based on my experience and confirmed by the Datsun mechanic who sold me the pins & connectors to repair the corroded connections I had on my car when I did this work 10 years ago. I asked if I needed to mark the wires when I did the work & was told no need. Confirming what others have posted previously. 100% use stock cam with stock FI.

100% in the injectors. I rewired mine 10 years ago and asked an expert the same question. I have no idea if I swapped sides when I re-did the harness (new pins & connectors and put em together) but she's been running perfectly for a decade. And also 100% on keeping a stock cam. This FI is "dumb" in that it's not adjustable and built and designed to work within a small set of parameters. If you want to swap in a hotter can, you need to switch to a modern FI, which can self adjust on the fly, or Carbs.

For the last 26+ years my friend. For the last 26+ years. Although now my father in law isn't talking to me.....wait, nope I'm still good.

It'll be 4 years next month. Found it on Craigslist in Buffalo. After a long conversation with the owner, and a over 40 photos. I bought it sight unseen. Here is a link to my story. https://petrolicious.com/articles/here-s-why-i-fell-in-love-with-the-datsun-280z

Thank you. :-)

I would not hesitate to contact Mike at Bonzai motorwerks. He's got all the parts you need, but more importantly can point you in the right direction for getting your car running properly. Whatever you think your are "overpaying" for parts, he more than makes up for with his experience & expertise. He saved me HOURS of diagnosis time, and he got my Z as close to OEM (read reliable) possible.

Forgive me if you've already done this, but have cheked & cleaned the injector connections? Mine were in such bad shape I just replaced them.

Here's my story getting my 77 back on the road. http://petrolicious.com/here-s-why-i-fell-in-love-with-the-datsun-280z Most of running issues were electronic in nature. All the rubber bits were so shot, and every connection full of corrosion, it just made sense to start all over with new connections instead of trying to restore old ones. Good luck with your project.

There is a guy making replicas on ebay. Perhaps he could help...

Article is online: http://petrolicious.com/articles/man-machine/here-s-why-i-fell-in-love-with-the-datsun-280z

Some more photos.

Lifetime guarantee? Caveat emptor

Alright. I was close. 402491. I pulled the VIN off the title and it's spaced weird, 40249 1 so I kinda omitted the one. I went and looked at the tag on the car....you learn something new every day. And here's another photo with more accurate color....

It's silver. Light balance is on the cool side. And no, 40249. About 1,300 cars before Bob's.

We are pretty close. I'm 40249. Probably built within a few weeks of each other....

After 2 yrs of ownership, I finally got around to shooting my 77 280z. I spent about 10ys on & off looking for an unmolested, mostly stock example. I was lucky enough to find this one on Craigslist in Buffalo of all places. When I received it, it ran poorly, and handled worse. But it was mostly original. I've since replaced anything rubber, and all electrical connectors in the engine compartment. Along with new injectors, fuel pump fuel lines etc. Using genuine Nissan when possible. Suspension has been dealt with in a similar manner, OEM when possible, the only modifications were a set of Eibach springs, the Koenig Rewinds and cross drilled rotors and a set of performance pads. It sat all last winter in storage from Thanksgiving to Easter, started first try and been running great all season. A photographer from my local C&C took some really excellent photo's this weekend and we'll be writing up a story for Petrolicious and submitting it over the winter. If accepted, I'll add the link to this thread. In the meantime, here are a few photo's that I shot, enjoy!

Ok, I now have heat! (Or hest, according to the title of my thread) The two short hoses at the vacuum canisters on the passenger side were completely deteriorated. They're pretty hidden, so once I knew where to look, it wasn't hard to figure out. I also changed the end of one of the hoses on the intake manifold and checked all other connections. I also have a working FICD valve, however it doesn't quite have the strength to actually move the throttle linkage. It moves all but the last 1/32", which when I help it, will raise the idle to about 1200 rpm. I hoping this will improve with use. Many thanks to all that responded!

Injector connectors are not polarity specific.

Everything is there, I just need to find a few minutes to really start looking at these lines and see what I can find. Thanks for the leads. I was thinking that I had an air bubble in the heater core (this is my first water cooled car that I've worked on, previously I've only dealt with air cooled VW & Porsche, so when I put in a new radiator last year, I forgot to open the heater control valve when I was adding the coolant). I'll report back once I get a chance to take a closer look and do a little investigating.

Ok, I read through fastwomans link and while I don't yet completely understand it, as an added symptom, when I turn on the AC,my idle drops. If I understand it correctly, this means I have a vacuum leak in one, or all, of those little lines in the engine compartment because that's not supposed to happen. Right?

77 280z, 5spd, factory AC. AC works great, but I've got no heat. Bled cooling system again, no air in system as far as I can tell. No overheating issues. I'm thinking blockage somewhere. Probably valve under dash. Visual inspection of valve and it looks pretty good. No evidence of leaks. Bur I guess it could be bad inside. Lack of heat is not a huge deal because I put the car away for winter, but everything else works in car and it kinda bugs me. Any suggestions?