280zzzzz

Spindle pin removal was the single most challenging thing on my rebuild. Having said that, I removed strut with control arm, after cutting with sawsall btwn hub cast iron and control arm, front and back, the first one (right side) dropped right out with a couple taps with hammer and punch.... The other one on the other hand... Tried the same method-no. Added heat-no. Tried the shop 5ton press-no. Finally went to industrial machine shop with a 50! Ton press - he put a little more than 25! Tons on it, and it popped right out ~ Was a "bit" rusted.. Remember to put some anti-sieze on this stuff when you put it back together.

i see that zcs in arizona has Brake Fluid Switch 12302302 @ 109.99 and np valve listed 12202401 price tbd used - but better than nothing...

I stumbled across a source of Brake Hard lines from Master Cylinder to Brake Switch and BrSw to NP Valve a while back when I was searching for a Brake Booster. I am sure I saw prebent replacement hard lines, on the same page as Master Cylinder and Brake Booster - Now I can not find that page... Has anyone seen this source??. It was a source other than Classic Tube.

I was under the beer can holder (relay bracket) myself today. My August 76 model (has sloped interior rear package shelf) has the same - 2x Fusible link Holders / Voltage Regulator /Condenser / and the (capped) round 3 pin connector which I believe is used with AC or Seat Belt Relay used on Automatic cars. Like you, I have struggled with the wiring (and other) year to year to year changes on these cars. Something that has been helpful to us, (besides printing all of the 75 76 77 78 Factory Service Manuals - which detail (some of) the changes, and integration of the electrical components) are the Z Tech tips/electrical @ AtlanticZ.ca - We are swapping to triple Webers - and will be removing the EFI harness and components, and switching to MSD 6AL ignition. Not being and expert (HA) it has been an ongoing process - you will find good people here. I understand that this is not a "How-to" deal, and lots of study and struggle is part of the equation. Good luck with your project.

I am hoping someone has run into this before. I am swapping to DCOE45s from injection on #359550 '77 280Z - I bought an Advanced Fuel Products PN 56-012 fuel pump for carbed RX7s from BD. The outlet is M12-P1 parallel tread male stud - does anyone have a source of supply for, say - M12-P1 Female x 8mm barb fitting? or really any M12-P1 Female adapter to -6AN or 3/8FIP etc etc :stupid:

I just recieved 2 fenders from Nissan - Made in Japan. "Packed" in nothing but bubblewrap Japanese Nissan Graphics - but perfect condition. Ordered from Applewood Heritage Nissan - Kobi Schtelzer - Very helpful parts manager. One came from Cakgary and one from Toronto. I bought Tabco rear fender repair panels, they will take quite a bit of work to make them nice. I would buy the new ones if you can.

Heh Thanks ZED - That's good advise, I knew I was in trouble when I answered my own enrty...

search - fuel pump check valve - by jazfe - Thanks OneFastWoman

I am in the process of swapping to carbs, and could use some expertise..... So far I've boiled out the fuel tank, replaced all of the old rubber lines, and have circulated a gallon of injector cleaner through the three front to back steel lines for a couple days to get rid of all the old fuel lacquer. I picked up a NOS pump from a Carb'd RX7, and new inline fueltank to pump filter. The existing fuel pump is not original...... and does not have the check valve in question..... Looking at carpartsmanual.com - Section - "" From aug-'76 "" ( Fuel Pump and Fuel Hose ) Item #20 indicates - ""Kit-ValveCheck"" PN:17014-N4225 Question: Should there be a check valve on the outlet of the fuel pump? Risking being flamed and burned to the ground.... Can someone please suggest the best thread about the ideal orientation of return-flow type fuel piping setup - Filters / Pressure Regulator etc etc Thanks for the help. mel

Zed I'll try again at "TheOffice" where the connection is better than the shop. You are right a lot of good people go the extra mile.. Thanks Again. mel

Thanks for the reply re:rear hatch mechanism. My assembly turned out to be THE rustiest thing on the car - removal involved removal of interior and exterior trim panels and eventually a dremel cutting disc. New one looks good on there now ; )

Thanks All for your comments. I have not been able to find a 77 manual, and have no luck downloading one yet. It has the angled rear deck-and 5speed. The carpartsmanual is a great resource, along with xenons fiche. Dr ZedHead the americanenglishdoctor.com website does indicate some geographical variations. We accept all here at TheClub - even expat Brits maybe we'll see you at Canby this year.... @DatsunsNW . The serial number does seem to be out of sequence with a spreadsheet I've seen - Maybe MrBeck?

I would appreciate any comments on this. As I rebuild my 280 all the ID Tags / VIN indicate it is #359550 dated August 1976. I have owned it since 1978. I have run into several instances where the info in the FSM for 1976 does not jive with the parts on the car. For example the rear wheel cylinders, the gas tank has the top mounted fuel level sensor all as shown in the 1978 FSM etc etc. Has anyone else experienced these issues? Thanks in advance.

LH pin, in vise, full length tap tap tap - fell right out on the floor... think to myself what's the big deal..... RH one not so much, soaked 2 weeks in penetrating oil - made removal tool with bearing- no, cut pin to remove hub from LCA - BFH, no - heat - BFH, no - finally took it to welding/machine shop that specializes in directional drilling eqpt repair, left it there for a few weeks - today stopped by, was going to pick it up one way or the other, and the feller had some time... 70 Ton press!! he said it was working at about 20TON!! pushed that seized/rusty little bugger right out of there. Moral - pay the man. Only 20 Bucks - Merry Christmas to me! Can't believe what a great feeling it is. Vented.... out

I know this is an OLD thread - but for those struggling with this.... remove rear trim panel from inside - I had to pull back carpet and remove the rear hinged floor section to get panel off. Remove lock "C" clip and pull out lock. On my car the hinged mechanism with the springs was the most rusted piece I have come across on the whole car. (I looked on ebay for hatch/latch to get an idea of how the small latch looks / works) a few days of penetrating fluid/oil loosened it up enough to actuate the lever and release the loop attached to the hatch. Reinstalled lock "C" clip , and adjusted - good as new. I has been at least 15 years since I opened up the inner floor hatch - original space saver tyre /tool kit / jack. Hope this may help someone else.... Now I can carry on with my rear end rebuild.