Tomzern

Anyone? =)

Thank you guys! I was there today, and started with checking the hazard switch as you said SteveJ. I had no continuity between those two green wires, so I opened it, sanded and cleaned the contact points and put it back together again. Now the switch was working, but I still could not get any turn signals. I then took a closer look at the wiring diagram in the second link you gave me, and noticed that there were two flasher units. I had only connected the one for the hazard lights, and didn't think that there was supposed to be another one. I found the second flasher unit in the pile of stuff I have for the car, connected it and it works like a charm now! Thanks again, especially to you SteveJ for giving me a thorough explanation with links I love this forum! Kind regards, Tomzern

Bump:)

In my first post I wrote that I just installed a new ballast resistor. The car runs as normal. I don't know if the tach is 3 or 4-wire, but the car is a 1970-model and the tach has a small square connector if that tells you enough? Thanks, Tomzern

Hi! I have a problem with my tach. It only goes up to 500 rpms. It moves a little bit when I rev the engine, but no more than 550rpms at the most. When I stop the engine it goes back to 0 rpms, so there is a signal there. What is most likely to be the problem here? I just got a new 1.6ohm resistor and the coil is stock (I think). Regards, Tomzern

Hi! I have solved all the electrical issues on my Z now, except one. I can't get the turn signal lights to work. When I turn on the hazard switch, all the lights flash as they should, included the indicators in the tachometer. When I turn on the driving light switch, the turn signal indicators come on and is lit constantly. If I then try the turn signal switch, the indicator for the side I switch it in turns off, but still no flash... If I disconnect the front turn signal lights, the dash indicators turns off, but I still don't get any flash in either direction. Only hazard flash works. What can cause this problem? Sorry if this was badly explained. I am norwegian, so my english is not top notch but I hope you understand Kind regards, Tomzern

Thanks Jeff! I forgot to try it today, but I will do it during the weekend! Today I noticed something. When I coldstarted the engine, it ran smoothly with almost no noise at all for the first few minutes, and then as it heated up the noise got louder and louder. I don't think it was like this before, but I am not sure. Can this mean that there is one valve that needs adjustment when engine is hot?

I agree that the sound is similar, but I don't think it is exactly the same sound. I found a video of another Z that has the exact same sound as mine: Is it possible that a leak can sound completely mechanical even through a stethoscope?!

There is no exhaust smell up front, and I can't find any signs of a leak around the manifold gasket. I also tried pulling the plug wires one by one, but none of them got the noise away. If it had been an exhaust leak the sound would have at least changed when I pulled the wire for the cylinder with a leak... I removed the valve cover and took of the oil spray bar. It actually had warped quite a bit but did not hit any of the lobes. I changed it with the bar from the other engine, which was nice and straight. Before i mounted it back again, I tested it with compressed air to make sure all the holes were open. Tried to start and had it running for a little while, but no change =/ Then I used the stethoscope to search for the noise and found out that it most likely comes from intake valve no. 5 or 6. I can hear a loud "dinging" sound in the stethoscope when in that area. Can it be a worn out valveseat or valveguide causing this?

I have not tried that yet, but when I listen closely to the engine it really sounds like it is coming from somewhere in or around the head. I will try it though, but I have the wrong type of clutch slave cylinder for my clutch fork so I have to find a solution.. Actually I have a nice stethoscope intended for use on engines, so I will try to locate the sound more precisely later today OK, I have just let it run for about 5 minutes in total because I have not filled the cooling system yet. The old gasket is gone unfortunately, but I can check for signs of a leak on the old head! I'll get back to you later today Thanks

Yes, I am using a metric feeler gauge and the metric specs from the FSM

Now that you all lean towards the exhaust leak theory, I am starting to think that it might just be that. The story here is that I bought the car with the original L24 engine and got it running last week, but I could not get it to run on all six. After a compression test I found out that I had no compression on cylinder no. 4. I then took the head off and found out that the whole engine was worn out and needed an overhaul, so I went and bought another L24 longblock that had been standing still for a few years. This is the L24 I have this noise in now. The thing is that the old engine made the exact same noise as the new one, and I have reused the external components. Maybe the exhaust manifold is the problem here? The gasket is brand new, so it can't be that.. Thank you Jeff I will post pictures of the car when it's up and running Thanks, Tomzern

Thank you guys for helping me:) I have not had it running before, but the guy who owned the engine before me said it was making this noise when he used it several years ago too. I hoped adjusting the valve lash would do the trick, but when I went over with the feeler gauge there was only one valve that needed just a tiny bit of adjusting because the opening was too small..the others were perfect according to FSM. I have only adjusted them with cold engine though, but can it really be this noisy just if I am off by say .01mm on one valve? Is it a common problem that the oil rail for the valve train is blocked? A friend of mine suggested it may be a worn valve guide..Any thoughts on that? I will try all your suggestions during the weekend and update as soon as I have done it. Thanks again, Tomzern

Hi! I just got my L24 running after sitting for several years. The head looked very clean underneath the valve cover, and I went over all the valves and adjusted them to .25 and .20mm as the FSM says. I then took out all the spark plugs and let it run on the starter for about half a minute before I started it. It runs nice, but I have this nasty noise coming from the engine. I have read about other having problems with noise from the valvetrain, but this is a bit too much or what? I am not very experienced with this engine, so that is why I am asking you Any ideas? Kind regards, Tomzern

Thank you for all the constructive replies. I know I should have done a better check myself before I bought this car, but it is my first 240z, and I guess I was a bit too excited so I rushed into it all a bit to quickly. I chose to trust the guy I bought it from, because he has imported MANY Z's to norway before, and he has a guy he trusts over in the US who checks the cars before he buys them. I have also seen lots of pictures of the underside of the car and the wheel wells before I bought it, but I guess I was fooled. The guy I bought it from is just as surprised as I am and he is feeling bad about it, so he is willing to help me get this fixed. Hopefully we will agree on some kind of refund also. Both him and I have friends who specializes in this kind of bodywork. I am worried that one thing leads to another, and I end up having to change every bit of metal of the underside of the car:disappoin Oh well. I'll keep you posted when I get things done:) And of course any advices regarding bodywork with these cars is appreciated. Thanks, Tom-Anders

Hi guys! I bought my yellow '70 240z a few weeks ago and went straight onto changing all the bushings to urethane and fixing brakes and stuff to get it ready for registration here in norway. A couple of days ago I was working on putting the front suspension back together when I noticed that everything was very hard to get into place on the left side, but on the right side it went straight on without a hassle. I began to inspect the frame rails and from the top I can see that the left frame rail is bent like a banana inwards. On the left side it looks like it is bent a little outwards just where the subframe bolt are:ermm: I took some cross measurements with a friend of mine, and from the holes on the rear of the floor rails to the opposite side subframe bolt holes there are around 1/2 inch difference The distance between sway bar mounting holes is supposed to be 700mm. On my car the distance is 693mm.. Some pictures Here's the inside of the left frame rail just behind the subframe: Not easy to see on pictures, but the right side is slightly bent outwards: So this is where the measuring tool ends up measuring from right rear to left front. The length is set on the result we got measuring from left rear to right front. It was supposed to hit in the center of the rear subframe bolt. :disappoin This picture shows that the left frame rail has torn from the firewall: The right side does not look pretty either, but it looks alot better than the left: I need advice on what to do with this. I thought I had bought myself a decent car, but this really destroyed my determination:ermm: I am talking with the guy I bought it from here in norway. He imported the car from the US a few months ago and did not know about this either. I guess there is no point in trying to get a hold of the guy who sold it as a "good restored car" in the US, or what? I really appreciate any advice you might have! Regards, Tom-Anders

I don't have the original 240 gauge, so I will have to make some kind of custom mount for the one I have, but that is no problem=) I just wanted to know if they are the same internally. I will update this post when the gauge is installed Thank you helping me=) -Tom

I am glad to hear all the positive comments on the car:) Unfortunately the car does not look as good from a near distance as it does on the pictures, but it looks good enough to be used for a season or two before repainting! A real detailing job will also help alot:) Thank you! The way I see it, this can only come from too high rpm's and trying to do burnouts.. I have heard several similar stories where cars have been messed with by the guys moving them around on the docks. Sad, but not much to do about it other than to fix it. No one wants to take the blame for it either, so better just put it behind me:ermm: Thank you Chas! That's true, what an awful video! Good to hear that I am not the only one liking the yellow color. It stands out, and I think that's cool on an old iconic car like the Z:) I have to admit that I was a bit sceptical before I saw the car in real life though;) I have not found any bad rust other than a couple of small areas on the passenger. The car was repainted in the US before it came to norway, but it seems like there is very little bondo on it. Time will show, but it looks pretty solid from what I have seen to this day:classic: I first found the car on eBay a few months ago, but didn't have the cash or the experience to dare bidding on it so I let it go. It turned out that it was sold to a guy here in norway who has been importing many 240z's before. I had been talking to him recently about another 240z that he imported before this one, so after he had sold that one he told me that he had this yellow '70-model on it's way to norway. I linked him to the eBay ad and asked him if it was that car, and it was, so I guess this car was kind of meant for me:) The forward differential mount has indeed sheared so I have this clunking sound everytime I accelerate. I am going to buy a new mount and the technoversions diff strap replacement mount. Is there a good upgrade alternative to the original differential mount? Glad you liked my SX! The Z is going to have an air dam (not sure which one yet), lowering springs and better shocks, and some nice wheels (suggestions?). Thinking of ZG-flares as well but that will be later. -Tom

EuroDat, thank you for a great answer to my question! =) I think I will get this to work then, with some wiring mods. -Tom

There you have my 200sx:) sorry about the separate posts, but it's complicated to get everything into one post when writing on a phone:)

Thanks for the warm welcoming:) I have previously owned a 200sx (same as 240sx, but with Ca18det engine) which restored from ground up with rebuilt engine and around 300whp:) I sure miss her sometimes, but I have always wanted a 240z because of the great design and because it is a lot cheaper to own and easier to legally modify a veteran here in norway. I will post pictures of the 200SX later when I am not on my cellphone. Nice to meet other Norwegians here:) I am from Asker:) you?

Hi! I am wondering if I can connect a 260/280Z oil/temp gauge to the wiring in my 240z and get it to work properly? Are the senders the same on the L24 as on the L26/L28? The case is that my car don't have the original oil/temp gauge installed, and I have 260z gauge available:) Regards, Tomzern

Hi! My name is Tom-Anders and I am the proud owner of this newly acquired 1970 240z:) The car arrived in norway coming from the US a few weeks ago. Unfortunately the car had been messed with during transport so the front windshield was cracked badly and the propshaft was torn apart. I also heard bad rattling sounds coming from the head which turned out to be one of the rocker arms that had jumped out of position:paranoid: Seems like someone has tried to do burnouts with it or something:ermm: Anyways, I am fixing all these things + some other things to get the car registered here in norway. This is my first Z, so I am probably going to have some questions that I hope to get some answers for here:) I will of course also share the development of my Z-project with you:) Regards, Tomzern