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I had a 72 with the same setup, and I would blow headgaskets as well. I cured the problem by using the OE Turbo Head Gasket. Or you can go with the HKS. As far as Rings go...Use the stock OE Nissan Rings, They will hold up just fine.

Right on...NGK BP6ES, for a stock motor, start going colder (bp7es, 8 etc) for modified motors...Idealy you want to run the coldest plug that will not foul. BTW the BP7ES was the "alternate" stock plug. The stock NGK wires are excellent, however if you want the best wires money can buy IMHO go with Magnecor. www.magnecor.com

It would look the same as it does on a 240 or 260. Matter of fact, it would look exactly the same. I can recall seeing alot of "triple duece" powered L-28 engines in GT-2 and the later days of C-production racing.

Mike at Banzai is a great guy, but expect to pay for his perfection and expertise. It is nice however to be able to drive over there (he is right outside the base) and pick up whaterver nut or bolt I need...cause he always has them.

Now if only my triples were that easy

Installed my headlight harness today...what a snap, and WOW my Hellas are bright.....great job Dave

I am using the MOMO Street Racer series, Sparco makes a very similar seat....I think both are now available in leather if that is your fancy. However I did purchase my seats from a speed shop in Pordenone, Italia, paid about half what they go for in the states.

I myself have given a "lift" to 5 very petite and lovely dancers who needed a ride home at about 3am. There was plenty of room leftover for some non driving activities as I took them back to the house. I had to leave the tool box at the club which just ensured I would be going back the next evening. The rest is a story for a different forum, posibly website!!

Whatever any of you do, KEEP the 73 and 74 manifolds.....just replace the balance tube with the earlier style. Nissan changed the casting on the later cars to improve the combustion mixture in cyl 2 and 5....if you doubt this....look down an original 70 intake and tell me how much intake you see for 2 or 5 then look down the intake of a 73 or 74. Dont know how much HP gains could be had but will say from experience that all 6 plugs will read the same as opposed to 2 and 5 being "off"

Ebay it all, I have a E-31 head I have been trying to get rid of for 6 months...and no takers....I might just keep it now

Agreed, we should all lighten up a bit sometimes

F-54 flattop, early E-88 head (yall know there were 3 right) w 280 nismo valves, stage 1 port and polish, HKS 2mm head gasket, Slalom cam, Weber triple duece induction, equal length header, MSD fired by pertronix in Euro dizzy. Currently exploring the posibility of more cam.

Arne, I am interested in purchasing about 4 of these to start, with more follow up orders (I hope). Please PM me a quote for four with shipping to zip 20762. Please include the address for the money order. Thanks

This is true....the honda motor is a drop in for the 240Z, however some modification may be required to use it in the 260 or 280.

You can "gravity" bleed the datsun clutch. That is, fiil the master res, then open the bleeder screw...thats it...make sure to keep the master full and just let it run. Also check the pedal height as well as the slave piston slack. If you do not have the proper pedal height, you will either have too much "throw" which will bottom the master and damage it, or too little "throw" which will cause the clutch slave to push "short." Also check that the master piston attaching pin (to the pedal) is not overly worn....if it is you can remove the slack in the sys but it is just as easy to replace the pin. As far as the slave piston slack goes, I cannot remember the exact measurment or number of turns, but I set mine like this. Once the pedal height is checked and corrected as needed (good info in Haynes manual), I remove the spring between the slave and the clutch fork. I then try to "force" the fork with my hand, that is I make sure it is positively engaging the throwout collar thereby engaging the bearing to the pressure plate. I then adjust the slave "piston" to touch the clutch fork, then back off 1.5 turns....like I said I do not know if that is the proper number of turns....then re-attach the return spring...I know some of the later cars did not have the spring. On a side note, I do not have a tranny book out right now, but IIRC there is no syncro for 1st or Reverse, you should always engage the clutch and wait a sec or two before engaging either gear...for reverse, I usually go thru 3rd gear real quick to stop the tranny before engaging reverse....been doing that in All my cars since 1985 (its a jeep thing)

Dave, Check your PM

Dogma, What I was trying to say, was that there are guys selling that upgrade on Ebay for about 60 bucks, with a connector for the honda motor that has the conectors spliced on it for "plug and play" use in our Z cars. Your write up was very detailed and complete, I was just pointing out that there was a cheaper and faster way to get the same result...that is to buy it complete and terminated to plug into our harness. I have purchased this exact fan for myself, and 3 other Z cars I service. I swear by it and can attest that it does move much more air than the original fan, is much quieter, and draws less current. I am not a "honda" guy so I do not know of any other year fan that works or is a different color. Are there others out there (fans) that bolt in like this and have a black motor? I would like to see one (pics please) so I can inform the rest of ZCCNV so they may glean from this knowlege.

Thats alot of work and money for something I can buy from a couple of different sellers on E-bay for less than $60. And both of them include a pigtail to plug it in with. Just do a search for "Datsun Blower"

Man that 3.1 sure sounds healthy with just the SU's on it. Have you thought about coming out to ZDAYZ this year. www.zdayzevents.com

Dave did you ever figure out, and or get a triple car setup, or are you still using the bored out SU's

I have not seen that car, however, it might be worth a look. It looks very nice from what I can see online, and to see an unmolested blue interior is very nice. Says it is a 71, but I would venture to say it has a 1970 Build date. It has an A-type tranny, and hatch vents. What amaazes me is that people still put lead/acid batteries in these old cars instead of an Optima

I am planning on going, and bringing the wife in tow....dunno if 240ZTT will make it, we gotta alot of work to do on his car to get it ready, But I will make it for sure. Fontana is already booked up, but I am looking into camping anyway.

Yep, thats the way N42's mate up. What head gasket are you using? IE, nissan or felpro or HKS. I had a similar problem till I switched to Nissan head gasket, and do a re-tq of the head after a few days. I now use a HKS gasket with no leakage problems at all

For the North American market...dunno bout anywhere else...If the 260z has the thin bumpers, and front turn signals in the lower cowl, then yes they will interchange.

If the starter did not turn when you jump accross the starter terminal, I would check for 12v at the starter terminal, then procede from there. Could be a fusible link. Question, does anything else work, ie lights, horn etc?