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The s-30 chassis was pre terminated for an electric fuel pump, true. But that is all it was, the wiring is there at the tank, but there is no power to it, one must find the wiring under the dash (above and right of the glovebox for LHD models) and wire in a relay and power it. I use a Holly elec pump mounted at the tank...feeding triple webers.

There is a difference on one of them. The cover that just says "NISSAN" in big letters is slightly taller. It is a JDM item, and if installed in a S-30 with new motor mounts, you cannot install several makes of strut bar. BTW I just sold my JDM "NISSAN" cam cover, or should say traded away. I have a new PDK Fabrication strut bar and could no longer use it.

With regards to the 300zx GTP car...if my memory is correct, that car won every race it entered save the enduros for a whole season. Trivia...does anyone know the serial number of that winning chassis?

Dave, I sent a money order on friday for both harnesses. Cannot wait to see your craftsmanship.

I might have to fly out to look at that one....take a tool box with me and drive it back. Nah wife would shoot me.

Dave, I put a money order in the mail on Friday. I cannot wait to see your craftsmanship. If it is anything as close to what everyone else says, I will be in Heaven. BTW I bought a new pair of headlight assemblies...anybody want some OEM KOITO headlamps...I am gonna replace them with Cibie lamps.

I think it would be better if you tried that with RUSH's Red Barchetta

B&M / King George in Clinton, MD (just outside DC, has a 72 or 73 240z. Most of the car is there, but it is rough. I had them talked down to 1K but I think it is too much. Floors are shot as well as battery box. Hatch latch is broken meaning it will take alot of work to get it open and repaired. They say it runs But I just wanted the tranny...5sp. Still riding on hubcaps but they have been painted. If you wanna go look at it I can give you directions.

Ditto what carl said. When I was commuting all of 2 miles to work each day ( I live in base housing) I got about 12-13 MPG with stock L-24 and SU carbs, But would get close to 30MPG on road trips. Built a new 2.8L with a slalom grind cam, headers, triple 40's etc....same commute (2 miles) yields closer to 17mpg, however highway mileage dropped to a at best 22mpg. But do check out the fuel pump....seen it happen before on Z-cars, as well as airplanes.

Your fuel pump may be leaking....remove the dipstick and smell it...if it smells like fuel, replace the fuel pump.

With a new baby on the way and a military move scheduled later this year, I must pass on the MSA nationals. Had planned to road trip from the east coast earlier this year, but life happens.

not without body mods (front lower cowl) and suspension mods (coil overs). With coilovers and replacing the cowl with an air dam, you can run 16x7 up front shod w/ 225/50/16 and 16x8 out back w/ 245/45/16. The issue is with clearing the stock spring hence the coilovers.

When my wife bought our current Z, it was missing the original wheels, seats, radio, and drivers door, and had been painted a different color. So I decided right then that it would never be a Concourse resto, but rather a Period Performance Mod. I drove it daily for 4 years in Italy as well as raced it there, and now drive it only during nice weather. However it will never be a show car. I applaud the guys that drive their cars to and from shows or on nice days. As for the cars trailered to shows, I personally would not want a full sized matchbox car. That is just my opinion, but they are pretty to look at.

Search Ebay for a used lock set, at worst, buy just the ignition (used or new) and get the rest of the locks re-keyed to match. BTW new complete locksets are still avail from MSA, but at a $700 plus price tag.

The springs are Eibach 10in free length, 2.5in diameter.

With no modifications at all, you can run 225/50/15 on 15x7 zero offset wheels. Panasport or Konig Rewinds are good, affordable wheel choices.

Thanks for all the info. I will probably wait till after my next move (OCT 11), and install Illums, use the MR2 strut up front and increase my spring rate to 200r 175f. Of course I may adjust that based on local road conditions at my new duty station (no clue where yet But I am going to be an Army Recruiter now). In Italy, I would run the Illuminas at 2 on the street, and adjust as necessary for Auto-X or track days. We would Auto-X on the Airfield and I found I would have to use different settings every time due to pavement changes, transitions from concrete to asphalt, or whether we ran a fast or slow course. At Hockenheim track days I would run 3 up front and 4 in rear, And at Hungaroring track days I would run 4 and 4. In the 4 years I spent in Europe, my tire selection was Potenza RE-71, Yok AVS Interm (both in 225/50/15, and used Michelin street rally gumballs (very sticky) in 24x10x15. I would get the Michelins for free from rally teams after the local rallys. They were good for Auto-X (usally two events) or 1 track day. John Coffey, you wanna chime in on this one?

Well considering we did not shorten the housings enough for the 300zx inserts, going with the MR2, and doing it right, might yield exactly what I was looking for to begin with. The big improvement in ride I believe was from removing the camber plates. East coast roads being what they are makes for a very bumpy ride with them installed. I may just buy a set of HZ3099 to get the setup right...then down the road replace all of em with illuminas. On another slight tangent. Anyone have any input on the Modern Motorsport adjustable chapman arms? I am considering a set of those combined with off-center front bushings to get the alighnment "perfect"

Ok I know we have been through this before, but I want a difinitive answer from a few of you guys (Coffey, Mortenson, et al). Let me start by explaining where I am coming from and where I want to go. When stationed in Italy, I sectioned my struts, and installed GC Coilovers, and Street Prepared camber plates. Spring rates were 175F, 200R. I do not remember the exact cartridge GC sent me but they were Illuminas. I used the car as a daily driver / Auto-x / Track day car. I was also using the GC 1" front bar and the Susp Tech rear bar. I loved the setup but upon return to the states found the ride too jarring. Out came the coilovers, in went stock struts raped from a wrecked 240, w/ tokiko hp and MSA springs (the old blue ones). The car looked like a friggin truck but the jarring ride was gone (at this point I was not Auto-Xing the car). Well a year went by and I decided to go coilovers again. Which brings us to where we are now. New GC coilovers (sold old ones to a buddy). F150, R175 no camber plates (stock strut mounts). I installed 240Z F insert in rear (Tokico HP) and used 300XZ front insert up front (bout 1 in shorter). Hindsight being what it is, I think I should have gone with a different strut up front. I am not bottoming, but at a track day or Auto-X I will. I have heard VW rabbit (gland nut issues), and MR2 rear (HZ or BZ3099). The car is primarily used as a nice weather daily driver (really nice weather) with an occasional Auto-X (when I aint deployed for a whole season). Would my best bet be the MR2 strut and should I stick with the HP or go Illumina. I have always liked the "west coast" setup (btw....its the same philosophy Bob Sharp used...soft springs w stiff bars) and will not excede 225lb/in spring rates. On a tangent...I remember when Illums were the hot new ticket in VW cup racing (circa 1986)

Dave, Sent you an e-mail today requesting a total for both harnesses. BTW a good way to get the power from the battery is to put another ring connector and wire on the starter post and run it into the cockpit. Then install a PDB (power distribution block). I Already have one installed to power my MSD, Stereo, iPod Adapter, and soon, your relay kits.

Dave, Sent you an e-mail today requesting a total for both harnesses. BTW a good way to get the power from the battery is to put another ring connector and wire on the starter post and run it into the cockpit. Then install a PDB (power distribution block). I Already have one installed to power my MSD, Stereo, iPod Adapter, and soon, your relay kits.

I am running the AVS ES100 in 225/50/15 on 15x7 Panasports. So far I lovw the tires overall. The sidewall seems a little soft for what I am used to. Also, prob due to the soft sidewall, the tires are noisy above 80mph...but I am very particular about these things. I would not run a 205/60/14.....spend the money and upgrade to 15 in rims or run a 225/50/14 if your exhisting rims are wide enough.Prob with the 14 is tire selection in any size.

Both are still available from MSA.....however the latch is part of a door latch assy that is quite pricey ($100 or more) and requires the door to be disassembled, but woth it IMHO

The cowl seal is the strip of rubber on the top of the firewall where the hood and firewall meet, it is at the front of the cowl, hence the name cowl seal. Removing the cowl seal will allow underhood heat to escape thus reducing underhood temps.

When we did my resto, I replaced latches and strikers...simply the right thing to do, and they are still available