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used would work just fine....just gives me another reason to go down to Virginia.. I dont think those lines have been available for some time, but it is worth asking.

I am looking for the brake tubing that goes from the master cylinder to the brake switch for a 72-72 240. I am wanting to put a later model Master on my 70, and it requires different tubing. Aybody??

The accell rod should come directly off the pedal assy thru the firewall and hook to the funny accell cam thingy. The are attached with plasic socket assy that snap over metal balls. You should be able to just un-snap them then go from there.

Did I also mention that tract length tuning is almost considered a black art...usually the confines of an engine bay removes the possibility of true tract length tuning. It was lost when fuel injection was first used in formula one....they no longer needed the velocity stack lenght and then covered the engines....art lost.

Well you see it is like this. On carbureted engines, the longer the intake tract after the butterfly, the more torque, see it allows for higher velocities thru the venturi by creating more vacuum at throttle opening due to the longer tract between the butterfly and the intake valve. Velocity stacks are sort of misleading, they are not really designed to increase velocity rather to straighten the airflow before it reaches the carb jets....its side benifit is that changing the length will create minor increases or decreases in air volume....very minor, but when tuning carbs to perfection these differences can be used to help final tune. This is called "Tract Length Tuning" On fuel injection engines, this is negated due to having a pressurised fuel spray as opposed to "sucking" out of float bowls. This is aloso why throttle body injectors dont have venturii's. The Air horn (velocity stack) on injection bodies is used to straighten the airflow before the butterfly, and for show.

Well good luck in the next season

I have fixed many a fuse block and hazard switch on a z-car (both are nla for 240's) but i believe that if the factory replacement switch is still available it should be used. The original switches lasted over 20 years on these cars, and a new replacement switch will last longer than we will be able to keep most of these cars on the road. 100 bucks or so for a new headlight combo switch is pennies if you consider the cost of a wiring harness meltdown if a repair is faulty. Just my opinion here.

TWM Induction toyed with the idea of a su replacement throttle body, but found that most if not all su users when doing a conversion will opt for a dcoe body....the su conversion was aimed mostly at the british car guys but they all go with a single dcoe....prob cause of the siamesed intake ports. Anyway here is a good link. www.twminduction.com www.sdsefi.com

www.zcarparts.com

All the power for the light travels thru the hazard switch and the headlight switch. If you have no dash lights, side marker lights, or parking lights I am inclined to say that it is the headlight switch....if it was the hazard switch you would still have the side marker lights and dash lights. It is the only thing it could be other than some strange short.....besides should you not replace that 30 year old switch anyway. If the problem re-appears you will have a nice new switch to operate the functioning system once you find the short that iI seriously doubt you have......BTW if you order a new headlight/combo switch make sure and order a new turn signal switch as well. It is one of those "while I am at it" parts. Good Luck,

sounds like you got a short in the combo switch

I have tried the porterfields, hawks, metal-master, and EBC Grennstuffs....I would recomend for street use the EBC Greenstuff pads, you can get them or the hawk pads from the tire rack... www.tirerack.com

They must not be tuned right if it stumbles off the line.

Holy s&$t get that thing off of there. There "should" be two small bolts (10mm head) holding it on I think the crank Damper bolt may also go thru there....you can remove the center bolt than the two smaller ones and take the extra pully off, dont forget to put the large center bolt back in with the camfer pointed toward the engine.

Ah but some of the best valued rental property is in Eastern Europe

There is a good review on the pertronix on this site. I have been using them for years and love them....Bambi is right they do not as yet offer the pertronix II for the Z, but the Pertronix I works great and you will not need a tach adapter...it just wires right up to the coil. If you replace the coil with a pertronix of a MSD Blaster you can remove the balast resistor from the circuit. Btw make sure and adjust the timing after installing.....the ignitor fires at the tail end of the dwell as opposed to the lead of the dwell with points.

I too would like to find some 240 seat belts in good condition. Prefer push button release and they have to be non-retracts.

set them for the stock settings

Shannon, Seeing as you are in Gaithersburg, and I am at Andrews AFB, I may be able to help you out. I have done many z clutches, and have all the tools necessary to diagnose your problem and help to steer you in the right direction.

N-42 block with dished pistons, and a n-47 head with exhaust liners.

Could br the tach itself......power for the coil feeds thru the tach first on the 240's...it uses a reluctance pickup method to figure rpm.

You have to use an open ended wrench, that is the only way

It is real simple folks...Serial Number was stamped on a chassis when production began....prod date was the date it "Actually" rolled off the line. Now as for series one vs two...if it has a cigar lighter in the dash it is a series two...no questions asked...if the cigar lighter and ash tray cover the fuse box it is a series one....it all has to do with the chassis change to facilitate the later "type B" tranny. Series one should have hatch vents and 240 c pillar emblems, series two should have no hatch vents and vent panels on the c pillar. But mind you I had a 71 with "A" type tranny no hatch vents, and vents on the c pillar.....kinda like lets test the vent theory before we finish the new console design for the later tranny

I would not recomend trying to "pin" the mech advance cams.....but I will tell you that you want around 33-35 degrees total advance at 3k rpm.

I am not sure on that one....