Dtsnlvrs

I have had nothing but good dealings with them. Sure there were a few shipping errors...like the wrong part or somthing of that nature, but all were resolved to my satisfaction. BTW their old computer system started acting up.....like real bad....computer saying parts had been shipped on backorder items etc....affected alot of customers....MSA resolved all with swiftness. The "new" problems may be due to cutting their teeth with a newer system. BTW I have been doing business with them for over 10 yrs, including while I was stationed overseas. Overall a great company that will work with you.

twminduction.com

Go with the TWM you will be happy you did

There were several castings of the E-88 head....at least three that I know of.....the earliest ones were almost idential to the e31----but the ports were cleaned up a bit and the coolant pasages changed.....this is the "best" e-88 head...it retains the peanut shaped chamber that the e-31 had, but had the improved coolant passages. It was phased out in the 72 model for one with a slightly larger chamber to reduce C/R for unleaded gas....the 260-z had a e-88 with a larger ex valve and a redesigned chamber to further reduce emmisions. In summary...to answer your question...an E-31 head would yield a higher c/r on a l26 than stock about 9.6:1, but may not be the best way to go.

Please lets not bring up The Mog, I still have creaky knees from that fiasco.

The beauty of this car is that it does not need a resto, just normal car maintenance stuff. Last time I checked fuel hose was cheap, brake stuff is relatively cheap and a complete door and hatch seal kit goes for less than 300 bucks. Yes, if I had 13K disposable I would buy this car.

Every one needs to take a chill pill, esp. you ROB. I too have looked at this car, and I am not willing to spend 13K on it, that is because I do not have 13K. It is a very nice example of a survivor car, and the dings on it are no worse than your average car would get being parked at Wally World. True, every piece of rubber would need to be replaced, BUT nothing has to be done to the body in terms of rust removal, I will attest that there is absolutly NO rust on this car. This will make a great find for someone just not me. BTW I think the owner was duped by the "Caretaker" as the care was supposed to be started and ran every month and I don't think it has. 13K for the car and maybe a couple more to get it on the road. Polish the paint with a good product, coat with wax. God I wish I had 13k disposable right now.

I would be interested in the carbs and synch tool.

Steet Set: tires (tyres) brand : Yokohama Type : AVS Intermediates Size : 225/50/15 Wheel type and size : Panasport 15 X 7 review : Very grippy for a non comp tire....but also very stiff. Track Set: tires (tyres) brand : Hhumo Type : Ecsteca 700 Size : 225/50/14 Wheel type and size : Slotmag 14X7 review : VERY VERY grippy...great auto-X tire

Revell has re-released Its 1970's kit but with a few new pieces, and a brand new decal sheet. We can buy them here in the states for about $10 at any Wal-Mart

The front springs were different between L & R....if memory serves me right, the R spring was slightly longer than the L to allow for the weight of the Battery on the right side. Seems that the engineers were thinking more about how the car looked on the showroom than how it handled at the time.

:stupid: :stupid: Well you can keep your heavy, rusting, warping, front and rear manifold bolt breaking piece of cast Iron all you want. I will put on a nice equal length header and not worry about it again:stupid: :stupid: I see we will have agree to disagree.

Lotsa good info from Dan et al. But also a little misleading info. Dan you are very correct, A Sunbelt eng runs rings around everyone else. Lets see where to start. N-42 head on a L-24....nope would not do it....if the head has been resurfaced even the slightest....the valves WILL make contact with the block IF the valve lash has been adjusted properly and the engine is hot. There are different E-88 heads. My advise.....Call Sunbelt and have him build ya' a E-88 with larger valves and slap it on a fresh L-28

F-54 setup in not on a 71. Weight reduction over the stock setup includes removal of the smog pump and all related hardware. HP increases come on the top of the powerband, from both the increased flow dynamics of equal tract length tubing and less drag on the crank.

The biggest thing you gain with a header over the stock manifold is weight. Headers are mild steel, stock manifolds are Cast Iron. I prefer a good equal length tube 1 5/8 in primary header, 2.5 in mandrel bent pipe and a Borla. Thats what I have run on all of my Z's. And when it comes to headers, you get what you pay for. Clifford, Nismo, or Stahl all build quality headers. The 6-1 header from MSA is not bad with some modification. And Jet Hot coating is worth its weight in Gold.

I would not say that I drive crazy but my wife says I drive like the French. You know....bumper to bumper at 70mph. I do love to drift, but with the suspension mods and fat meats under the car it is becoming more difficult to do. And speaking of bumper stickers.....there was one that just made me completely crack up. It was one of many on a very old VW Bus. It read: "Don't Laugh, Your Daughter Might Be In Here":devious: :devious: :devious:

For a relatively stock 240-Z: NGK BP6ES For a 240-Z with electronic ignition MSD etc: NGK BP6ES-11 And always use NGK wires