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In 1972 Nissan engineers were working hard to "fix" the flow problems of the original intake manifold. See problem was that you had a short radius curve to cyl 2 & 5. Thus was born the N-33 manifold which was used on the 1973 240. It had a much improved total airflow capability as well as being much more even accross all cyl. The N-36 intake is essentially the same as the N-33 and was used on all 260's. Ever wonder why when you pull your plugs they are not burning even. In fact I will wager that cyl 1,3,4,&6 all look alike and 2 & 5 look alike but different than the others. Put the N-36 on the car, You WILL increase HP (maybe 2-3) but you will also get a more effecient burn pattern on the spark plugs.

I have used both front and rear stut bars on all of my Z's and would recomend them to anyone who "drives" their Z. Unfortunatly with my new camber plates I will have to come up with a new set of strut bars. If anyone is interested, I have a set of MSA 240Z strut tie bars (F/R). They list at around 130 ea new, and they were only on my car for a few months. If anyone is interested in them let me know. I could part with them for about half the cost of a new set.

Since you are in LA...I would just go down to my local AutoZone etc and buy a re-man 60amp. They usually come with a lifetime warranty. Did the same thing in 97 with my 72 up in Seattle. I must have gone thru 3 of them before I got a "good" one but I did not pay any shipping and the price was very right

I have used both CIBIE Z beams, and the Hella's with great joy and success. Just make sure to replace the headlight switch and re-work the fuse box...if you are gonna use High wattage bulbs.

Food for thought. On EVERY Z I have ever owned, when I replace the original VR with a new "after market" one, BTW there are NO OEM ones and have been gone for quite some time, I always end up re-building the original one. IE clean and adjust as per the Nissan Maint Manual. The after market ones are junk and always have been. The amperage will fluctuate constantly and dive you bananas. The adjustment of the points is pretty straight forward and spelled out nicely in the Nissan Service Manuals.

Take a soft faced hammer, like brass or wood etc, and tap around the sides of the head...that should "pop" it loose.

Funny thing that Nissan did, if you notice...the ideal H2O temp, oil press, amp reading, and fuel load puts all of the guages in a straight up and down position.

Double check that all bolts are removed then use a soft faced hammer...ie lrather, wood, or brass, and tap along the side of the head...you should be able to "pop" it loose.

The original tire size was 175/80/14...but the factory restorations used 195/70/14. Hope that helps