Dtsnlvrs

Dave, Sent you an e-mail today requesting a total for both harnesses. BTW a good way to get the power from the battery is to put another ring connector and wire on the starter post and run it into the cockpit. Then install a PDB (power distribution block). I Already have one installed to power my MSD, Stereo, iPod Adapter, and soon, your relay kits.

I am running the AVS ES100 in 225/50/15 on 15x7 Panasports. So far I lovw the tires overall. The sidewall seems a little soft for what I am used to. Also, prob due to the soft sidewall, the tires are noisy above 80mph...but I am very particular about these things. I would not run a 205/60/14.....spend the money and upgrade to 15 in rims or run a 225/50/14 if your exhisting rims are wide enough.Prob with the 14 is tire selection in any size.

Both are still available from MSA.....however the latch is part of a door latch assy that is quite pricey ($100 or more) and requires the door to be disassembled, but woth it IMHO

The cowl seal is the strip of rubber on the top of the firewall where the hood and firewall meet, it is at the front of the cowl, hence the name cowl seal. Removing the cowl seal will allow underhood heat to escape thus reducing underhood temps.

When we did my resto, I replaced latches and strikers...simply the right thing to do, and they are still available

Remove the cowl seal

Partially correct ( I think) IIRC the flanged output was used on the truck trannys. There were 4 different driveshafts, 3 of which are interchangable between trannies and diffs. Difference is the length. Early 240 (70-71), all the rest of s-30, and s-130. The 4th driveshaft is for Borg-Warner T-5 only.

Use the 240z driveshaft

I was 4mo old when my 70 was born. My father came home in 73 with a pre-owned 71 (it was a weird one with an early dash, console, and Atype tranny, but no vents in the hatch.) When we moved to England in 75 he let Janspeed tickle the Head and replace the SU with Webers. 1983 saw a Bob Sharp cam and header installed, followed by a 2.8l block with the same Janspeed head....CR of about 11:1. Just in time for me to learn how to drive. And my wife wonders where I get it from.

Check the dimensions on the fuel pump eccentric. Make sure that it is driving the mechanical pump to its full throw. Also make sure that there is absolutly no blockage between the mechanical pump and the carbs. And please place the elec pump back at the tank...they are designed to push gas not pull it...the mechanical pump is for pulling.

Redline/Weber and MSA are in the testing process for a "NEW" FI system for L-engines. No word yet on price but probably alot cheaper than the TWM systems. It is built around a dcoe intake and throttle bodies. Comes with its own brain box and all other necesary items. Top End performance has already started to advertize the sys, but just the generic stuff...not Z specific. Redline FI

:cheeky: Actualy there were two sets going on ebay at the same time, I went for the older (Italian built) set. The ohter set looked to be 40DCOE151. purchased from MSA...they did not sell. Do a search for "weber*"...make sure you use the asterik. Search for closed items and e-mail the guy with the other set...you may be able to make a deal. As far as the timing set goes...it is very similar to the Datsun Comp item we used to get from Bob Sharp Racing.....it is not adjustable per se, allows mor finite adjustment over the stock unit

I just completed an ebay purchase for a triple weber setup for my Z. I am so happy I should be dancing in the street. Not only was the price right (esp since everyone has them marked up over 200% since the factory went on strike) but they are Italian made not spanish. No idle air bypass to fool with, brass floats etc. Carbs on ebay some of my other recent purchases Timing set

Hey Rob, what column do I put the shipping fees to and from Italy for the body work.

Ya'll need some cheese

Born on Chanute AFB, IL in 1970 Montgomery AL 1970-71 Eglin AFB, FL 72-73 Mather AFB, CA 73-74 McDill AFB, FL 74 parents divorced so Montgomery again 74-75 Mom remarried to another pilot so..... Holloman AFB, NM 75 Back to montgomery while step dad in korea 75-76 Myrtle Beach AFB, SC 1976-80 Fort Lewis, WA 80-82 Richmond, VA 82-83 Concord, NC 83-84 Shelby, NC 84-88 Auburn University 88-92 Montgomery, AL 92-94 Joined Active duty 94 Korea 95-96 Ft Lewis, WA 96-98 Aviano, Italy 98-02 Andrews AFB, MD 02-pres with a few stints at places like Mogedishu, Kuwait, Iraq, Afghanistan, Bosnia, Kosovo, Poland, Hungary, Czech Republic, Germany.

Series one specific body parts are NLA. The aftermarket body panels are for all s-30 chassis.

Lets see if anyone can figure this one out. SUN-MOON

While I was stationed in Italy from 98-02 i drove my 240 all over the country, and most of the older folks thought it was a Ferrari. I would get pulled over by the Carbinieri all the time so they could look at the car. The 240Z was not sold in Italy, so they really had no Idea what it was. We had the body restored and painted while we were there and the guy that did the work had been a Nissan Mechanic in Germany so he really fell in love with the car and it shows in the quality of the work he did. As for the color, when asked what I wanted, I just said that it was a sports car and he should use his best judgement. He chose a beautiful Ducatti red (AKA Ferrari red)

Thanks Dad, Because you taught me to rebuild DCOE carbs at 8yrs old, and took me to Road Atlanta at 9yrs old, and taught me to drive in your 1971 240Z.....I will forever be a Z nut.....all the times you asked me to crawl under the car or hand you a wrench, I thank you. Now YOU call ME for advice and help with your cars....it is kind of humorous. My wife does not thank you, for old cars is not the only hobby you passed on to me, gun collecting is moore expensive than the old cars...Thanks Dad.

That white stuff is snow, and it is real fun to do donuts, err i mean drive in. The summer/winter flapper's sole purpose in life was to reduce carburetor icing in frigid environments, like colorado, I would not even waste the time and energy to flip it...shhot i dont even have one.

how'd the webers work out?

I just wanted to add that the dizzy can be removed in any engine position. It will only go back on one way...that is in time with the motor. Now if you dissasemble it completely, have too many beers and cannont remember the orintation of the dist cam...then you could have problems...