Dtsnlvrs

There is a good review on the pertronix on this site. I have been using them for years and love them....Bambi is right they do not as yet offer the pertronix II for the Z, but the Pertronix I works great and you will not need a tach adapter...it just wires right up to the coil. If you replace the coil with a pertronix of a MSD Blaster you can remove the balast resistor from the circuit. Btw make sure and adjust the timing after installing.....the ignitor fires at the tail end of the dwell as opposed to the lead of the dwell with points.

I too would like to find some 240 seat belts in good condition. Prefer push button release and they have to be non-retracts.

set them for the stock settings

Shannon, Seeing as you are in Gaithersburg, and I am at Andrews AFB, I may be able to help you out. I have done many z clutches, and have all the tools necessary to diagnose your problem and help to steer you in the right direction.

N-42 block with dished pistons, and a n-47 head with exhaust liners.

Could br the tach itself......power for the coil feeds thru the tach first on the 240's...it uses a reluctance pickup method to figure rpm.

You have to use an open ended wrench, that is the only way

It is real simple folks...Serial Number was stamped on a chassis when production began....prod date was the date it "Actually" rolled off the line. Now as for series one vs two...if it has a cigar lighter in the dash it is a series two...no questions asked...if the cigar lighter and ash tray cover the fuse box it is a series one....it all has to do with the chassis change to facilitate the later "type B" tranny. Series one should have hatch vents and 240 c pillar emblems, series two should have no hatch vents and vent panels on the c pillar. But mind you I had a 71 with "A" type tranny no hatch vents, and vents on the c pillar.....kinda like lets test the vent theory before we finish the new console design for the later tranny

I would not recomend trying to "pin" the mech advance cams.....but I will tell you that you want around 33-35 degrees total advance at 3k rpm.

I am not sure on that one....

I have seen where a guy stuffed a 75 fuel tank under his 240....the only other options are to get a 75 tank and a 240 tank and have the baffles in the 75 tank relocated to the new 240 tank the other is a resevoir of sorts...never looked into it much but you basically have to use two fuel pump, one to fill the resevoir and the other to provie the final fuel pressure. Talk with someone at SDS or TWM or TopEnd ( www.racetep.com ) I am sure they have a better answer for the problem...me I just always kept the tank better than half full, and BTW I was meaning a really sharp / hard right hand turn, like hauling arse out of the parking lot turn.

I have done this conversion before...many times...but we always used a 2.8L w n-42 head for the conversion. The only negative aspect is that if you corner real hard to the right with less than 1/3 tank of gas the fuel pump will starve and the engine will die. Check out my web site at www.geocities.com/superb60ce to see photos of a converted 72 240Z

These are the formula I have Throttle bore = (sq root of (dicplacement per cyl in cc X max rpm / 1000)) X 0.82 Main Venturi = (sq root of (dicplacement per cyl in cc X max rpm / 1000)) X 0.65 Main Jet = main venturi X 0.04 Air corrector = Main jet + 0.20 These of course are "begining" numbers...final tuning and cam selection will refine the process

Thanks for the thumbs up.....spent quite a few hours last night updating it, I think it had been over 2 years or so.....any other takers gonna take a look and give me some feedback??? www.geocities.com/superb60ce

Call Top End Performance, www.racetep.com they have complete weber kits, manifolds, linkage, fuel pumps, halmeters etc. BTW specify to them that the manifold and the mount kit need to be for 45's as well. They will help ya' out.....also BTW I do stand corrected......if you have that much head porting you could use the 45's....just be carefull not to overrev the motor, as it is gonna be a free spinner at the top end.

Just to let ya'll know I have finally, after two years of neglect, updated my website. take a peek and give me some feedback. www.geocities.com/superb60ce

ROFL ROFL

Basically All I am saying is the only advantage to running 45's over 40's is if you need very large venturi's, and you dont need very large venturi's unless you are making a ton of HP at a very high rpm...BTW a very high rpm for a nissan I-6 is 8k rpm and it decreases with an increase in stroke. Anyone who builds engines will tell you that HP is made in the head....I seriously doubt that his head is ported in a manner that would require the use of 45's....if it is I will stand corrected, but the amount of porting I am talking about would cost as much if not more than the engine itself. A large enough cam may need 45's, but that is negated because of the enormous stroke of the LD28 crank. Rebello does know engines, so does Sunbelt, so does Honsowetz, and so does Gene Crowe...and a little known company in England called Janspeed. (They used to do some really trick heads). Oh I better just get off this soap box before I get a headache. BTW the 40's and 45's cost the same.

Dreco...go ahead and use the 45's....I think they will come with 36mm chokes...worse case it is too much and you can choke them down some more...I was mainly concerned with port matching....but apparently Rebello is not..oh well.

too bad it is a series two dash...I could use a series one dash...mine has but a few cracks in it

I ran a 2.8 with a trick head and 40DCOE with 33mm chokes....had a devil of a time geting good driveability with it....I would suggest 40's and 33mm chokes on a 3l and get it proffesionaly tuned from there.....check out www.racetep.com give them a call and talk with them about it. I seriously doubt that your head is ported to 45mm, and I know the off the shelf TWM intakes are bored to 40mm....port matching will get you more HP in the useable range than a over-carbed engine will.

If you have Su carbs ther is no sense in "pumping" the gas pedal...there are no accel jets...my z starts about the same way...turn the key..let the fuel pump run a bit...pull the chokes, crank her over till she fires...let her warm up a bit.. then smoothness...once warm starts with the bump of the key. Any if I remember right that is the same way dad's Z was in the 70's

...Newer Webster: pigeon..Rat with wings...

check your PM

I would not think so...they are tempered to the static shape...they should be fine.