sawilliams

well-----what you described is the whole learning process. sounds like you learned alot in a couple of nights. out of curiosity -------what on earth is a valve/piston collision. steve

thats good info to know-----ill keep that in mind and keep on lookin. :classic: steve

i dont want to sound pompous-----just asking,should you need help---do you know how to make the distributor not backwards. steve

there in lies the problem. part of my asking people in the know at this site is because i found out what the manufacturor requires and it is no longer available from the factory. ive spoken with numerous parts guys at nissan----and theyve all told me -----20w and we dont have it -----and cant get it. i want a comparable 20w that is suitable.----for a multitude of reasons it needs to be 2 things---20w and non foaming. ANYONE please correct if im wrong but ive read many times in motorcycle magazines that atf is 7w , ----the perfect fix for those wanting to dial in their shocks between 5w and 10w. atf is non foaming. ------im just looking for something that will work. if 20w shock oil is cool-----then that do it. thanks . steve

i agree -----process of elimination. also---i like toast.steve:stupid:

i like the look of the scale ones too and will get on----the marker is just a quick fix now so i can set the timing to get her runnin. im really not that familiar with the advantage/disadvantage of smaller vavles. can you give me the scoop. thanks. steve.

i got the arrow one because that was the only one listed for 70-73 240's----------- sept of 73 the plate changed. but he didnt have a pict of it. the guy said the 260s and 280s of those early years are where ,if i want, i can get the plate with multiple degree measurements. just for now i got the sigle point marker------cause i had to order it----plus i havent even looked up where to set the timing -----and the details of switching them can wait just a little. it was actually 1.12 and they have the one with the degrees on it for 2.50----ill just take one step at a time for now so i can move on to something else and get her runnin asap . ive got an e31 head -----there the high compression ones arent they. ive heard theyre good. thanks again for your help. steve

thanks guys for all the advice---i went to my local nissan dealer ( garden grove, ca ) and they had the marker plate for 2 bucks.. good deal------steve

im working on my first 71 240 z project car and i cant locate the timing marker(plate) that corresponds with the crank to set timing. one of the front cover bolts is missing, and it looks like this is where it would go-----if there is one on this car--------i imagine there would be. front to rear its on the left side. if there is does anyone know where i could buy one. please help. thank you . steve

i might ad.-------if you really get a top notch port and polish-------------you really should take advantage of it and match jets and settings and all sorts of stuff.--------------bottom line. a nice clean is sufficient for a peppy daily driver. steve p.s. who let the dogs out ?:classic:

food for though-----it is not an exact science, unless your going to use state of the art computerized mapping of the ports. an "expert" cannot look at a curve in a manofold and say ya you know heres the physics of the fuel atomization that will take place right here. alot of people may disagree with this -----but there is a lot more room for error on the positive side than negative. just be careful and dont go nuts. steve

from what i understand--atomization takes place until time of explosion. an even port job is more critical then the debth or width( simply talking about atomization) uneven porting can cause uneven atomization and grouping of mixed fuels. some lean and some rich. and an uneven burn------like i mentioned before----its expensive to be done right. dynos and all that stuff. but a basic cleanup----mainly a conservative polish job----tends to help out alot. by the way, im new to this site and i am very impressed by the people and the site. steve

its been along time, but it is very labor intensive. hundreds for a good job. steve

its sounds like he was talking about a port and polish job on your intake manifold. the port part is to gring away, shape and debur ( within the restrictions of its shape) the inside of the manifold. the polish part is to make it extremely smooth , so the gas/air mixture meets as little resistance as possible. rudimentary explanation to going FAST----------make the car breath as quick and efficient as possible. quick in---explosion, power-----quick out. porting and polishing is a very effective way to acheive better breathing.

is your concern that the plug wires are not in the right place.

i have a RAC maxi tune meter i can measure points ,dwell ,tach, amps and volts with. its been awhile and i forgot which wires go where and i am hoping someone is familiar with this instrument. ----it has a positive and negative lead with big clips , which im assuming go to the battery. it also has a big clip lead in a big yellew rubber cone. all 3 of these wires go into the instrument in one cluster. then the other cluster going into the instrument are one black and one red wire connect together by a flat metal bar with some type of attachment screw on the end. i know how to use the instrument------i just spaced on the hookups . help would be greatly appreciated. any timing tips too would also be appreciated. thank a bunch. steve

front and rear bumpers for 1971 240z 714 8941041

on the su carbs its calls for 20w oil for the slide towers. i cant find any straight 20w oil. ive been told that atf dextron2 is a close substitute. please help with any suggestions. thanks. steve

call 7148941041 or sawilliamsmontreal@hotmail.com ......im in orange county, ca

wanted: 71 240z header. im in california----but to ship is ok also. 7148941041. email sawilliamsmontreal@hotmail.com. steve

71 240z good condition $2000 in so cal 7148922760 kerry or sawilliamsmontreal@hotmail.com -----also in so cal