zeenubee

View Advert "78 280 Z FOR SALE This is rust free( to the best of my knowledge and what two mechanics have said), partially restored, slightly modified, car that needs cometic and interior work to make it outstanding. Car was purchased as HS grad gift for son in 2002...he went to Marines...car went to garage. It has been stored since then til 2013 when an attempt to get it back on road was made...ran but would not pull itself up a hill...mechanic was not a Datsun guy, but at that time new injectors, new fuel pump, wires, plugs, filters, hoses etc were installed and car was parked inside. In Dec 2019 took to a different mechanic...tank cleaned and sealed, low temp sensor replaced, sending unit replaced, valves adjusted...runs really good now. See my posts for more info and pics. Since photos were taken four new tires, new belts, coolant hoses and flush. Brakes are like new as well as lines. All suspension work was done by previous owner:struts, control arms, bushings, oversized stabilizer bars, tie rod ends, etc. Also headers and a larger exhaust pipe were installed. Has new battery too. Interior work needs to be done, and yes the dash is cracked. Needs rubber replacement. This car has not seen one drop of rain the entire time of my ownership. It comes with a rough "78 parts car. It is a 5 speed conversion. Parts car has the orig 4 speed. My health issues (back) prevent me from continuing to work on car...deserves to be in the hands of a more able and more knowledgeable enthusiast. Feel free to ask questions as I'm sure I've forgotten things. Cars are in western NC. Advertiser zeenubee Date 01/21/2020 Price $12,500.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280 Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Obviously I do not know how to post photos correctly...sorry...guess they need to be resized

Hey Guys and Gals...I'm posting pics of my 78 280Z for evaluation as the PO did a to of modifications to this car that I have no specifics about. I am thinking of selling this vehicle and would like to know if you see obvious problems. Car seem mostly rust free, lot of suspension work done(?), is now running and runs pretty well except for a slightly high idol, gas tank cleaned, new fuel pump, injectors, lines, plugs, new tires, valves adjusted, new belts, hoses, brakes as new , coolant flush etc. If you want specific pics let me know. Interior is original and needs, carpet,rubber,seats covers, and dash is cracked... Would be very interested in your comments and opinions!

Learning more and more...got the 280z up on a lift today and lots of good news (in my opinion) All of the suspension seems to be as new...struts, control arms, bushings, stab bars...all were either replaced or redone...I will post some pics later.. bushings appear to be rubber as opposed to poly.....No signs of rust either. Brakes as new with new lines, wheel cyl's and calipers. Fresh brake fluid, fresh coolant...didn't power flush because of hoses and not wanting to push the radiator...Getting new tires next week...I had posted the wrong size previously....they are 225/50/15 on 15x7 Panasports..(don't know about offset) Drove it about 60 mi and seems a bit noisy...don't have any idea to compare to. Ran fine though the idle seems a bit high 1000-1100rpm. Temp gauge seems ok as does oil press and ammeter...clock not so much ...went through the entire sequence as outlined in the EFI Bible. with all values pretty much normal....was no pin on one or two...I don't have my notes with me sorry. So I'm feeling encouraged about this old babe...obviously some more sorting to do: New Belts (a/c car), exhaust hangers, all engines hoses and vac lines, cleaning engine bay. I want to get the engine area as clean and neat as possible within reason...not a show car. Needs carpet, sound deadner, seats rep'l etc. Don't think I will tackle the dash (cracked as usual). The sad part is my age and back are going to prevent me from using this car much Thanks for the help...any suggestions, comments, ideas all appreciated!

Ok.... found the fuse covers, haven't found bracket yet...@Zed Head...saw the thread on your fuel rail ...cool!....but probably above my pay grade. Have you seen anything on how people restore the various metal parts like fuel rail etc in engine bay?

Back again...as stated in my other posts, got the z running again...haven't had much time to evaluate further but need advice on some obvious issues: 1) Correct FPR...have read much on site and it seem that the 78 should have an FPR with one outlet and not two as mine has... Currently blocked of is the side toward the radiator. Should I replace this? are correct ones available? is the "blocked off" option dangerous? 2) Fusible links...mine are broken and covered with duct tape (PO). Are these available...need bracket too? 3) High idle...Steps to check 1,2,3 etc

Also...want to post some pics of car and suspension....where and how do I do that?

Never was good with math! Just spent a couple of hours reading again the FI bible...what a well written and illustrated document! Gonna go through all elec connections first, then going to replace all fuel hoses and vacuum lines. Not sure what I'm going to do with the extra out put on the fuel press. reg...haven't looked for parts yet. Glad you guys and gals haven't kicked me off. one unrelated question: do you all use a special motor oil with high zinc or other additive?....going to change all fluids, filters etc even though they have only <50 mi it has been 6 yrs. I usually use mobile 1...any concerns?

Well after 9 years almost...I'm back on this project!...life. Surely wish I had re-read my own post and your replies two weeks ago as I once again took it to another mechanic ( label me stupid) This one was supposed to be very knowledgeable on these things..go ahead be harsh! So it seems that the problem was two-fold: The (1) gas tank was full of rust...so was cleaned and sealed. Car started right up (some fuel lines were replaced too). Ran very rich...which he traced to (2) oxidized coolant temp sensor plug. Damm...wished I had listened and not been so intimidated by this. Any way I drove the car home 45 mi and it seemed to run fine. Now I am going to try to sort this thing some more as I go back to the FI bible and FSM and depend on your further guidance...hopefully my sincere thanks to all

Not sure right thread, but this is where search led me....I have a 78' 280z that has been more or less sitting in the garage for 17 yrs. Just got it running again. It has an older set nice panasport wheels with really nice looking BFG Eurosport 255/55 R 15 on them. No dry rot at all but some flat spotting. Vibration at 55 +. I cannot find this same size. Suggestion? What 15" are you using?

Ok now for an update. just got educated by the shop I took it to...meaning expensive! Anyway the main issue in regard to this post and one I previously post yrs ago...gas tank rust and sending unit rust. He found a replacement unit somewhere, had the tank cleaned and sealed. fired right up but with lots of black smoke...he traced that problem to the corrosion on the cold run sensor( a familiar tune if I remember correctly reading in this forum). So watch for more questions as I start to sort the rest of this out myself...with forum help and guidance. I appreciate those of you who commented and offered advice! Still plan on cleaning that old sending unit.

Thanks for the tip...will try... and report

OK Thanks...I am going ahead with the gas tank, clutch, valve adj...he says the sending unit is available...hope he is right. Do have the old one though if necessary. Was able to see the car from underneath for the first time today and it seems the previous owner did tell me the truth: The car is very solid through out and he did what he said he did...new struts(? type and brand), new hd sway bars front and rear, new bushings all around, headers of some type and larger exhaust pipe, Sooo thankful for no rust!!! I want to post some pics: suggestions on specific spots of most interested? Should have it running in about a week after the gas tank comes back. Grateful for all suggestions.

Trying once again to get this thing on the road again. as I am no mechanic, I have in the hands of a shop. I am trying to get some idea of what is fair $$. What should I expect to pay to get fuel tank boiled, cleaned and sealed? And what should I expect to pay for a sending unit? The tank is rusty for sure. know nothing in re to sending unit. Also says clutch master and slave need replacement. It seems the slave was replaced about 3 yrs ago, but has been sitting all that time. Valve adjustment??

Hey...saw this on Leno's Garage...'ARCHOIL"....anyone here have any experience with it?

You might try a full line graphic arts supply store...a company named Chart-Pak used to make chrome mylar tape in all different widths...

Some more clarification: the engine did NOT stop running the other day when I moved it...It just would not pull itself. Towed it the rest of the way home. Parked it and two days later it started right up and I backed it into garage. re: the bullet connectors...had asked the mechanic to clean them...said he did. The AFM was also checked but cannot verify. So I have the wrong FPR and it is improperly attached, the BPT line needs to be plugged, and I need to do ecu checks as per FSM/EFI bible, clean all electrical connections and recheck fuel pressure and timing...sounds like no football sunday! Thanks for your help time and info!!! I shall return.

Ok, here goes...don't know how this will turn out...thanks Alabama for your help...did not have time to do any testing but I welcome any and all comments on what you see! I have more pics if needed

OK...will check the pic in efi bible, take a pic of my set up, and check the return line also...wont be able to do this til sun or mon....thanks!!!!.....one ,more thing to learn...how to post a pic here ()

in reply to Zed Head. et al...it doesn't cough or backfire...it bogs down, no smell of gas that I can tell...I do think he messed with the distributor because he replaced the cap...small crack. I will re-check the fuel pressure. I did notice in the efi bible that the picture of the FPR shows two inlets....one side of mine is blocked off...don't know who did.. this may be PO, but the car ran fine when I bought it in 2002. I have most hand tools, but don't have a timing light, think I have a cheap multimeter. I will start with the efi bible and check the values if I can figure out how to do it...seems pretty simple...then I will check the plugs as suggested...thought maybe the mice had partially plugged the exhaust with soybeans as I find them everywhere in my garage...they used the air filter for their main bathroom....no evidence of chewed wire yet, but I haven't been up under the dash yet. Thanks guys! will let you know more over the weekend hopefully.

Thanks guys...brought the car home...had a very hard time...would run ok for a minute or two but no real power...6 miles and I had to tow it the last too.....I'm going to throw this idea out and see what you think...the car had been sitting for about 8 years and had a lot of mice in it...could the exhaust be partially stopped up and that rob the power?

I did provide him with a copy of the FSM and the EFI Bible...but I cannot tell you he referenced them...I do know that he didn't do the values check at the ECU. I do believe you might be right when you say he may be overconfident in his own knowledge. He cleaned the contacts on the TPS and that is when he got improvement...I have said all along that I thought it was an electrical problem. And, yes he asked me to get a new TPS. I guess I will have it towed home and go through a the electrical connections my self with the EFI manual and an multimeter and emory cloth and deoxit. I will have him re-check the fuel pressure after the FPR and go from there...thanks for the comments! This is a great site...wish I could get this old timer to look at it!

Still trying to get this 78 running...old mechanic working on it for me ( I know very little)...have drained tank, PO seems to have cleaned it; new fuel pump (walpro); gaslines blown out; fuel pressure tested at filter(new) at about 45#; he says he checked and cleaned(?) all electrical connections; new fuel injectors (ebay) and seals; AFM cleaned. Now he says he checked the TPS, cleaned contacts and it runs "better" but not like it should...aftermarket TPS seems to be only available now thru the zcar place in Ariz at $125.+ Any suggestions before I throw more parts at this thing?

Sorry about the mixup on MAF and AFM...will check the hoses etc.....the car had not been started in about seven yrs...stored inside, but mice got into it and used the air filter for their restroom...cleaned it, blew it out, new filter,plugs, wires, fluids....starts easily but rough as I said...drove it a little ways and just no power...the exhaust does not seem to be plugged...no smoke, soot, water etc...had to take three runs at a slight hill just to get back in garage....it does not backfire, but sounds like it is just about to...thanks for help....will go thru the whole system with the efi bible and my ignorance and see how far I get....thanks

Got the engine started right away after following advice given here...started right up, but rough...replaced fuel pump, cleaned injectors...runs a little better but no throttle response ...feels like it is not getting enough air(?) I do not have enough tech know how to do the multimeter testing at the ecu so thought I would start next step by cleaning the MAF...is this a good way to go? and should I use any special chemicals? I have the Deoxit...mentioned in some of the posts I've read here.