mr_han_solo

Well I considered it that, but for the metallic silver color drove the price of powder coating up so much that it would be more cost effective to paint. The original paint up fine for 40 something years anyways. Looked into the video, pretty nifty DIY project and something I am going to have to do. Wow, I knew it was running rich, but not that bad.

Hello, I am planning to refinish my iron cross wheels as one of my winter projects. I originally talked to two different powder coating companies and they were leery/doubtful about replicating the current two tone paintjob. In turn, I have decided to just paint and refinish them. Before I do, I have several questions: 1. Is it going to hurt the rims for me to sandblast them? If it will damage them, what is the best way for me to remove the current clear and paint? 2. Can anyone point me to the color names or color codes on the rims themselves? I'm hoping this will help with being able to actually find/match the correct colors without having the wheel with me. 3. In my area I have both a PPG and a DuPont paint supplier. Which one makes a better paint for wheel, (assuming that it's going to have to be a specialty paint)? Thanks, Han

Hello, I am doing a clean-out and trying to sell some of my excess or extra 240-280 parts. I know this is a ebay/craigslist board and I do have these posted on ebay. Just thought I would list them here as well, If needed I can add the ebay links to conform with the rules. Datsun 240z, 260z, 280z Water Temp/Oil Pressure, And Clock Gauges: Pulled these from my 240z when I upgraded to a SBC. I changed to autometer gauges. When pulled the water/oil gauge worked. I bench tested the clock and it runs, but it doesn't have enough power/gearing to move the hands. I have put some sewing machine oil on it to see if that would free the gears up enough but it didn't. You can see the gears turn but they don't have enough power to turn the minute hand. They also come with the glass/black vanity shields. I had to use the black cases for my autometer gauges. I put white faces in my gauges and these will come with the white face, but they can easily be peeled off if you want to return to the stock look. 240z, 260z, 280z Clutch Master Cylinder: This is the Clutch master cylinder off of my 240z. I did a SBC swap and had to upgrade to a tilton master cylinder. This comes with the stock Datsun cylinder, and all of the tilton reservoirs and accessories that I didn't use. One thing to note is that the pushrod in the picture is the tilton pushrod. The master will come with the stock datsun push-rod though. I took the picture when I was wanting so see the how they would interchange. 240z, 260z, 280z Power Antenna: Pulled this off my 240z, not sure if it's a power antenna of not. It does have an accessory power wire going to it. 280z Center Console Panel: Pulled from a 280z parts car. Rear light connector is mangled. Other than that the entire panel looks good. 280z HVAC Switch: This was pulled from a 280z parts car. All sliders move and seem to function correctly. 70-74 Datsun 240z Console/HVAC Panel/Switch: Pulled these from my 240z when I got it. Everything looks good and levers move and function correctly. Paint is chipping on the main panel, but a repaint on if should be fairly easy. Small hairline crack on smaller panel that goes over fuses. Fan switch also included. Extra Prothane (Red) Urethane Bushings: Bushings I had left over. Bump Stops, Transmission X-Member, 16 and 20mm Sway Bars. Stealth Conversions Aluminum Spacers. Dat-105: I really have no price to put on these. Just make me an offer. Feel free to ask plenty of questions or request more pictures, I took several of each item.

DirectTV channel 281

Just noticed that the Velocity channel show "Garage Squad" will be airing a Datsun episode tomorrow (Friday 8/15) night at 9 P.M. Eastern. Here is the synopsis: "Jason is a motorcycle mechanic with a big car problem. He owns a rare Datsun 240z, number 89 off the line with serious problems under the hood and in the interior. Can the Garage Squad team help this owner get his beloved Datsun back on the road?" Just thought I would post this to let everyone know so they can watch/DVR it. Edit: Just noticed that the title shows 9/14, this should be 8/15. Hopefully a mod can fix this.

I don't have a part #, but it was listed as "Urethane Airdam with brake cooling ducts". Hope this helps.

Hello, I recently purchased a urethane bumper. The inlet part is very wavy, I was wondering if anyone knew any way to straighten it out. Thanks, Han

Used some left over primer I had from my Camaro. Evercoat durabuild. Not more than two years old. The color coat is an enamel. New paint. I sanded the original paint, then primed it. I wet sanded the primer with 400grit then applied the basecoat. Wet sanded the basecoat with 400 and then put on the second (current) coat. What I mean by uneven is that if you look in the picture you can see where it looks thicker in some areas than others. However, when i run my fingers over it it's all the same.

Hello, Just finished shooting my car with some satin green paint. However, the paint looks really uneven. It's all good to the touch but you can clearly see where I started and stopped. My question is, how do I even all of this out? After my first coat I tried sanding with 600grit, but It ended up making the paint look bad. I was thinking of trying 1000 or 1500 grit, but I wanted to check in before I did that. I will be shooting the car with a flat clearcoat, so it that takes care of these problems I'll just do that instead of sanding. Hoping someone can give me some tips.

Well I took the gauge out and wired it to the battery. Messed with the adjustment crew a little bit and it didn't change a thing. Looks like the Voltmeter is bad. Guess i'll have to buy another one. Thanks for the response! Hopefully this thread will end up helping someone in a situation similar situation to mine.

I put the gauge faces on myself, but I did not touch the adjuster screw. However, I do not know what may have happened to the gauge in the past so I will check the screw tomorrow. Is it okay to adjust that gauge with it still connected to the battery? The fuel tank is empty so that may be why the fuel gauge looks like it's not working. Unless it's suppressed to wiggle like the voltmeter does.

Hello, I am re-installing my dash and I have run into one small problem. I got everything hooked up, but I am having a problem with the ammeter conversion. The AMP/Fuel gauge is from a 1976 280z. I used he following instructions in my swap: "Basically you just disconnect the two fat White/Red wires (maybe just white?) from the back of the ammeter and re-connect them. Insulate the living daylights out of this connection, and not with just electrical tape. Use heat shrink, preferably the stuff with the glue on the inside. Clean the contacts first. Bolt them together VERY tight. Oh, and take a new 18 gauge wire from this same spliced connection and connect it to the + terminal of the voltmeter, and connect the negative terminal to ground. That's it." Unfortunately the AMP gauge is only reading 4 volts. Here is a youtube video of the gauges operation. I'm hoping someone can tell me what I did wrong or if my gauge is bad. Thanks, Han

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Master Cylinder. I also went ahead and bought new wheel cylinders, shoes and stainless steel lines. All of this was the day before Christmas... Unfortunately, I also bought the Toyota 4x4 (non vented) calipers and pads. Now I suppose that I could return them, but I was wondering if there was any more input. pbarcher, thank you for your previous input. I am going to do some more researching on the Toyota front and drum rears. As I said before I can still return them, but I just want to make sure that there isn't any way around the brake balance problem.

Hello, I am in the process of removing my Evap tank and reconfiguring the evap lines into the European style that doesn't have the expansion tank. My question is that I have a vacuum line coming from my manifold and carb advance into a metal distribution block and from there the line runs all the way into the back to the evap tank. What can I do with this line? Is it safe to disregard the metal distribution block and just run the line straight from the distributor to the manifold? Hopefully this picture gives an idea of what I'm talking about: Thanks, Han

Hello, I some different questions regarding the brakes. On a lot of threads I have heard people say that the 240z stock rear drums are on par with any disc upgrade. They also mention some drum upgrades, but never specify what the exact upgrades are. I am looking into stainless steel lines and rear performance brake shoes. Is there anything else I need as far as a rear drum upgrade? On my front brakes I am upgrading to the Toyota 4X4 breaks. I was actually looking at getting the vented ones. However, I read that I will need a machined spacer to correctly move the hub from the rotor for wheel clearance and matching bolts. The source of these were Modern Motorsports. However, I see that they no longer sell these. I was wondering if there was any other source for these spacers? If not how much of a performance hit will I be taking if I back down to the standard Toyota 4x4 brakes? I do plan on doing some auto crossing in this car. The other brake upgrades I will be doing is the 15/16 master cylinder from a '79 280zx. Hope someone can chime in so I can load up on some parts to get me started. Thanks, Han