240tom

Wish I could have that fusebox cover.

Very nice looking, but I also notice some things that I've heard should be different. For example, it has open holes in the steering wheel, the speedo starts at zero instead of twenty, it has an oil pressure gauge that goes to 90 instead of 140, so it looks like it has had some dash work. And I wasn't clear on the engine; does it have the original engine or is there a new one "in the crate" with no serial number? I am glad to see the value!

Hazmatt, love this resto thread, you are doing awesome work. I'm in the middle of my own restoration, and am actually putting in Fatmat Rattletrap these days. I've been wondering about how much coverage I should do, reading all the other posts about this I can find (this club is such a good resource!) but getting confused about how extensively I need to cover everything. Some posts show every square inch covered with this stuff, others not so much. It seems to me that this material really only serves its purpose on the "flimsier" panels, like the floorpans, left rear quarter panel, headliner, and door panels, since it is meant to reduce or deaden vibrations, and slapping it on every square inch isn't necessary. That said, I find myself nodding at your placement scheme. Are you also going to put it on your tranny tunnel and on the rear deck? What is your thinking on how much to use and where to put it? Finally, do you also plan on putting down any kind of padding or foam for sound reduction? Thanks for any advice!

I'm sorry, I must be missing something simple, but where/how is the relay wired in? Thanks

Very similar story to mine. I noticed my Z sitting down behind a closed store years ago, then a couple of years ago started thinking seriously about making her mine and restoring her. She's a Series One (HLS30-13158, build date 11/70) and unmolested, except that she sat outside, unloved, since 1998, until I finally made my move and brought her home last September. Her matching number engine was frozen, the floors were gone, the interior was shot, but the structure is sound and nothing was missing. Still, after ten months (I've GOT to start my resto thread!) the engine is completely rebuilt, top to bottom, the bodywork and paint is almost done, and I've got a ton of new stuff to start putting back in when I get her back. I've spent way more than she will be worth any time soon, but that's not why I'm doing it. My Dad bought a '72 new and although he only owned it for a couple of years (and sold it for more than he paid for it!) I remember it well and part of why I'm doing this is to summon his spirit back into the garage. Enjoy! And be prepared to SPEND!

I found this response in this thread, and it addresses exactly the problem I now have with my differential strap. With Roger Schmidt's help, I've converted my rear end to the later configuration (I replaced my straight (1970) mustache bar with a curved one and a new rear diff mount, got the longer driveshaft and the later front diff mount), all is good EXCEPT that now my strap is too far forward. So, what do I do now? How do I get the strap to do its job? Thanks for any advice!

Zedyone, thanks for this information. I will be putting in a pertronix and a 3 ohm coil, but I wasn't planning on reinstalling the ballast resistor (the one that was on the car is shot). I was hoping that you could revise your drawing to show how I would be doing this without the resistor. Thanks for any help you could give.

I may be interested in a passenger side rear quarter panel. Don't want to seem like a pest, but the sooner the better. My body guy is ready to go. Thanks!

How about if you totally screwed the pooch when removing the switch, and it is now a goner? Any idea where I can find a replacement? Thanks!