Brett240

it WAS hard, my car had all the right parts in it, but it was rough around the edges. it needed another 5 grand thrown at it to bring it up to where i wanted it. i could have stripped it to pieces and sold the bits for more than 15 thou but i didnt want to destroy a great car. its all over now, but i may be back with an SC race car, the best fun i ever had with my car was on the track!

15 thousand. the car is sold, getting picked up next weekend:disappoin

Hey guys, ust thought i'd let you know, looks like the car is going this weekend.

Your right Geoff i did decide will i was pissed! but it still made sense in the morning, no doubt in my mind ill regret it watching it drive away and if i had the money i would hold onto it but... its time to go.... until such time as i can pick up an SC club car.

Hi all, never thought the time would come... but its for sale 73 240Z dark orange 2.9 litr custom fuel injection, ported p90, L14 rods, lightened fly wheel rebuilt 280 gearbox with short shift kit R200 LSD with custom diff mount, 260 shafts 300ZX front 4 pot brakes with AU falcon 2 pot rears 17 inch simmons custom alloy radiator, oil cooler custom coilover suspension with adjustable koni's, nolathane all round stainless steel 2.5 inch exhaust with extractors SAAS bucket seats 12 months rego too many other extra's, seriously quick car. PM me if interested

im back after a long hiatus from the site. moving countries will do that. i maneged 7 including me the driver, doors and hatch closed and driving. car felt a little sluggish.

Here are the charges the 7 michie teams are on trial for: The FIA informed each team individually that they had committed the following transgressions: * “Failed to ensure that you had a supply of suitable tyres for the race." * "Wrongfully refused to allow your cars to start the race." * "Wrongfully refused to allow your cars to race subject to a speed restriction at one corner, which was safe for such tyres as you had available." * "Combined with other teams to make a demonstration damaging to the image of Formula 1 by pulling into the pits immediately before the start of the race." * "Failed to notify the stewards of your intention not to race.” check out charge 3. does this mean that the teams refused to race even if there was a chicane??? this would point out it was not the FIA to blame here but the teams themselves....

sounds like its running rich. plugs black after city driving. try winding some fuel out of the carbs. it would be ok highway crusing becouse the underbonnet temps are down and your air is denser, giving i leaner mixture.

www.fibresports.com.au cheapest around as they have the moulds.

i'd be in on that too

how much wood could a wood chuck chuck if a wood chuck could chuck wood?

Anybody know what 'P30" means on a crankshaft?? what are the L24, L28, LD28 cranks desgnated with? Brett

Yep, and you can bet most racers (unless they like being at the back of the pack) use close tolerance engines with high tension rings that can take advantage of mobile 1. Its only funny if your ignorant of your engines limits and capabilities. No flame intended, but thats just how it is.

i think we should be careful when throwing around oil names for suggestions, different oils come in various visocities, types, castor/ synthetic etc and each engine has its specific uses and corresponding needs. so a 40wt oil used in a fleet vehicle is not necessarily the oil of choice for your weekend Z with 150k racked up. FWIW i have ran Mobil 1 in my engine which was the wrong choice. its way way to thin, couldnt hold its viscosity when the temps rose on the racetrack and oil pressure dropped, pluss it leaked past the valve guides and rings and dissapeared out the exhaust. changed to a synthetic castrol racing oil with (from memory) a 20w60 rating which held its viscosity better, it was alot thicker to begin with, and i didnt lose oil. of course this may be a little to thick for a fresh built engine with new style piston rings.... its horses for courses. Check the manufcaturer recommendations for your driving conditions, they know best. but generally the tolorances on our 30 plus year old engines are not in the ballpark to be using thin synthetic oils. the kind of oil you see labeled as "for high performance, turbo engines"

yeah casue its reducing your interior space, 3 quarter vision and fu%*ing your aerodynamics.

Have to disagree there. the siamesed blocks inhibit the coolant passages do they not? also the N36 manifold wont go to well with tripple webbers, its designed for duel SU's.

This car had them at the Z car nationals. hmmm i like em.

dont bother with a 4 banger. if you want to go in that direction put in an RB25 turbo. mutch better engine, much more bottom end torque means easier to drive and also has more potential for the price. to do a proper RB/SR setup you are looking at about 8 grand driving easy, most likely more. There is ALOT of work involved. of course you wont get it registered without.... suspension and brakes. you need big brakes especially. get that sorted out then think about engines.

More like 80KW, the factory rating was somewhat optimistic. Your best bet is to join the QLD Z car club, you will be able to get spare parts, contacts and local knowledge. You say your on a tight budget so forget sr20's or 350 Chev's. Through the club you should be able to get a cheap L28 engine, basic swapover, more capacity. Its a good engine while you spend money on fixing up more important thnigs like brakes, suspension and rust. ALot of 240Z's already have an L28 installed so see whats out there.

The Kameari 89mm piston... readily available???

yeah the L14 rod was used in a derivative of the 510. with... a 1400CC L engine. Japan only i beleive. well we sure as hell didnt see them in Aus so i doubt you go them in NZ. i beleive Alan T in the UK has a set.....

Jayru, check the lines running to and from your tank (the ones that hook up to the metal lines at the back) check out ok? no cracks? leave the ends that hook up to the tank disconncted. now disconnect the hose ends that hook up to the metal lines in the engine bay. blow throw them and have someone check the other end. if you cant feel the air blowing out then you line is clogged and you need to clean then by running compressed air through them. now would be the time to make sure there is a filter BEFORE then metal lines. CHeck to make sure the tank end nipples are clear, you said this was ok already sooo hook it all back up, you should be clear up to the rail. now pull the line the exists your pump (mechanical right???) and crank the engine over (oh by the way put the end of the line into a container...) fuel coming out? etc etc etc just keep checking along the line until you find the block.

Crahface kid is the craziest thing i have seen in along time. i doubt he could have survived that???

have you worked out the piston height and comp ratio with that setup? im using L14 rods with the standard L28 crank and we had to shave the pistons to stop them hitting the cylinder head.... though that was with KA24 pistons. maybe the ones your using are ok. better look into it before your fork out for L14 rods

ok if you cant afford one... what about this? tap a thread into the bush, run a bolt into it then use a slide hammer to bang the sucker out. im not saying do this or if ti would work, just an idea. but hey if your deperate...