Brett240

i see, what do you use to get the gland nut off?

GEEEZ! i think ill stick with my lightened stocker:eek:

Zmefly you found it extremely easy? you must tell me this easy way. on mine its nothing but a pain in the arse. i'd rather change the clutch.

nah when you order struts you will get dampers or shocks. springs are springs. putting in springs is a pain. you will need spring clamps and a funny tool to take off the top caps. if you've never done it before you'll save some time and frustation by getting them installed at a suspension place.

i can only guess at the weight george, but if the flywheel weighs 13.5KG and im pretty sure thats close they have removed about 2KG. it did make a noticable difference, the car was happier to rev and the throttle responce was definatly stronger. as the flywheel is out of the car at the moment i figure if it wont make the car difficult to drive id like to take out a little more.

dunno bout bying one but i had mine 'street' lightened and balanced with the clutch and pressure plate for AUD 120

a set of stilsons is a must! similar to an adjstable spanner but they grip tighter as you pull harder. great for removing the gearbox filler plug!

yep Zmefly's right ive had that happen too!:classic:

i already have taken a little out of the original flywheel already, but i might take out a bit more. i'll leave the rear main seal, its only 400 miles old. how much can you safely take off the stock flywheel?

stiffer springs that lower an inch from stock ride height will be fine, you will probable find with these installed there wont be much difference in ride height as the original springs would have sagged alot in 30 years. the stiffer springs will be around about the same compressed height but wont compress as much under load and this will hopefully stop your scraping problem. dont sue me if they still scrape though if you already own the springs give it a go.

if the car isnt bouncing around then your shocks should be fine, those rear tyres are actually smaller than the factory diameter so your right the tyres arent the problem either, sounds to me like your springs are saggy and old, are they the originals?

yep mines brushed aluminium. i think all 240's with the later style console are (the one without the manual accelerator handle).

just found out why my engine was making an incredibly bad noise yesterday, it wasnt what i thought it was (stuffed bottom end bearing ), the flywheel was coming loose at a rapid rate! so heres my question, does anyone have a really light flyweel attached to their car? what are the driving characteristics? will it drop its revs to quickly during up changes? stall easily?

george, thats a bloody joke:angry: how can they only allow only a 4.9L Atmo engine and yet you can run a turbo/supercharged engine up to 4 Litres? so they wont let us have a 5 Litre V8 but we can happily drive around in a twin turbo 4L making 500hp at the wheels? the same thinking applies to the dickheads at Eastern Creek Raceway, you can no longer run a supercharged car at the street drags but you can happily run a turbocharged car. :cross-eye

i know there is a mzximum size engine the RTA will let you have WITHOUT getting a cert, from memory in a 240 you could change to an L26 but an L28 was too big.

where did you get your info from? ive seen a few V8 240'z in New south Wales cert engineered and registered.

to go bigger you need to have it engineer certified, then its OK.

i thought about reconnecting the hose when the original airbox isnt fitted and though i havent done it yet i figure you can put a T-piece in the booster vacuum line and hook it up there, should do the trick

could be both, take it to a wheel alignment place and have it checked out

mines currently called the sh*tbox cause its broken.

whats the difference between normal and euro tail lights?

mudge, thats a pretty useful tool. only thing is it doesnt have the 240 five speed the came into Aus and the UK. is there a box on that graph that uses the same ratios?

yeah oil stains arent easy to get off walls and floors but at least they cover up the coolant stains!

first off when changing up wheel sizes in most cases the aim is to keep your overall wheel tyre diameter combo the same to keep your gearing the same. by increasing the diameter the cars theoretical top speed will increase and acceleration will decrease, vice versa for decreasing tyre diameter. if you change from a 14 inch wheel to a 15 inch wheel, to keep the overall diameter the same you now need a 15 inch tyre with a lower aspect ratio (distance from outside of wheel rim to the start of your tread ). this has 2 effects, with a smaller aspect ratio there is less rubber to flex, effectivly stiffening your ride and improving handling. the lower the ratio the better you grip and braking... to a point. if you put heavy 20 inch wheels on your car it will increase unsprung weight to a point where you will stuff your cars handling characteristics. generally a 17 inch wheel is considered the best compomise. hope this helps

ive found checking lash pads with the cover off while the engine is running is a good way to lube up your engine bay.....and the car.... and the entire garage.