Brett240

yep. look above.

you can get at least 245's on with coil overs, i have coil overs on mine and there is a lot more room than stock, though i only run 225's.

ive found the best way after removing mine four times in 6 months is to place the whole car high up on jackstands, put a slidable hydraulic jack under the box and undoe the gearbox mounts. after draining the box and undoing the tailshaft and other bits (remember the middle console!) wriggle and slide the box backwards and lower it to the floor. make sure the box is balanced well otherwise it will fall off the jack and break your bones!

ill be there if i can get my car running well enough to make the drive.

yeah its the z nationals if you want to display your car you better get your entries in real quick. i dont know the brisbane site but there is a link to the nationals at www.zclubofsydney.com.au:classic:

its got a targa top too. must be one crazy z.

the block depth is the same, the problem you will have is with the 280 crank your compression will go through the roof and your pistons will more than likely hit the head every revolution. with an extra 4mm stroke if you can imagine the piston wil now travel 2mm further down the bore AND 2mm further UP the bore. if you change to the shorter L28 Rods ( 130.3 instead of 133.0 for L24) the piston will now sit further down the bore and you will have proer clearance. About the revving nature of the engine, generally if you increase stroke without increasing bore the engine will have a tendancy to develop more power down lower in the rev range and it wont happily rev out up high thoug a 30" overbore will help.

yeah itll work if you want 13.5 to 1 compression! you'll need to use 280 rods if your bore is going to stay the same. it will take it to 2565cc. this is basically the L26 engine out of the 260z. ive never done this to an L24 though so no guarentees! i wouldnt bother though, if you want bigger cubes and you want to keep your L24 engine number your better off boring the block out to 86mm and fitting L28 flat top pistons, it will rev better. and then if you put the l28 crank in you will basically have an L28 engine. hope this makes some kind of sence!:classic:

yep thats right. the engine no longer can pass the emissions regs in japan.

weve got alot of these engines in Aus though Nissan never officialy imported the cars to aus. do you guys have a grey import industry, the RB25 is out of the nissan skyline GTS-T

hey i just noticed you posted that!:stupid:

hey keenen check out the thread, overkill for your fairladies.

no the RB25det is single turbo, the RB26dett is the twin turbo. for the money the RB25 is a bargain. these engines will only have problems when SERIOUS horsepower is on the cards. one of these engines with a good intercooler and a few mods in a 240z will blow everything off the road. dead reliable. a four cylinder engine will never be as quick

you;d have to check with your local suppliers in the US about parts but they are pretty easy to get in Aus. if you are going to the trouble of importing an engine, its worthwhile saving a little more and getting a six cylinder, like an RB25det, though you should have these in the states. it will take a bit of work to get 5.3 second 0-60mph times out of an FJ in a 240z.

the fj20 is a reliable strong engine, though if you cant find one in the states and you want a four cylinder your better off getting an sr20det in america. it would be cheaper than shipping an FJ from australia and parts are more readily available for the SR .

Cool yeah thats mine! the pictures from the concourse day at fox studio's with the z car club of sydney. i go through a spoiler a year, its just a little to low for a standard size curb:stupid: i dont mind the bare look either but its nice to have brake ducts. i wouldnt mind the jans spoiler though!

where does the jans vinter spoiler come from???

TRS, the spoiler only is bolted at the outsides of the car and there is no support in the middle, at high speed without bracing the spoiler will bend and eventually crack. i used two flat aluminium pieces, bent them into shape and bolted them on the inside bottom of the spoiler and then back to the original valence, this works fine.

mines a pretty common front spoiler in australia, they are a bit fiddly to fit and need some bracing, but easy enough to paint. its made of a pretty thin fibreglass. most aftermarket spoiler places have them. i got mine from fibre sports in taren point, sydney for about 150 bucks i think. have a look at my avatar

when these cars are resprayed alot of painters use body filler instead of lead jointing but either way it will crack. i had mine lead jointed and put a strut brace on and the thing still cracked in a month. i dont think it will be a structural problem at all as mine too havent gotten any bigger in a yeay and a half

the original SU's will flow fine, even with a wild cam. my engine is 2949cc, has a stage 3 cam and im still running 1 3/4 inch SU's, albeit with richer needles.

and cvheck the oil in your dash pots

hi has anyone in the sydney area have an inicator stalk assembly in working condition they would like to sell?

dunno, is it possible to convert hydraulic lifters to mechanical lifters?

hi i just had a p90 head installed onto my L28 and noticed that on the side of the head it has P90A. This head has mechanical lifters , i was under the assumption that P90 A heads were all hydraulic. is this true?