Brett240

i was born 10 years after my 73

Eric, what were the run in conditions? little or no load - was it in the car or did you run it in on a bench? are you sure it didnt overheat, warping the head and letting coolant into the cylinders? brand new engines get ALOT hotter than an older engine under the same conditions

that sounds bad Eric. i think you might be clutching for straws thinking coolant leaked into the cylinders becouse the head wasn't tight enough. like bambikiller said could be a crack in a water gallery, maybe corrosion around the galleries in the head, a warped head etc. how did the head gasket look? was it pinched or torn? if you pinch the gasket while torquing the head you will get a leak ( catastrophic failure time).

hey thats a great idea i want one!!! i couple of reasons i think. ease of adjustability and more importantly........ have you ever let the chain slip while adjusting the cam timing??? the tensioner stops the bloody chain from coming back up properly so you get the fun job of pulling off the balancer and timing cover to ge the chain back on. no tensioner?? no problems!!! where do these come from??

Hey Geoff, Has my car been entered in yet or are people being lazy?? make sure you find someone to drive it that can do 1:11's!!!

este, if your sway bar mount has russted away get the thing on a flat bed straight to an autobody shop and have the rails and all suspension mounting points thouroughly examined by a professional. If the sway bar mount is gone then more important areas might be one their way to coming apart (suspension mounts, crossmembers, everywhere where big bits are bolted to the frame etc) the first thing you want to do on a resto is make sure you are starting on a structurely sound car!!! Then fix your brakes.

No Shock will last a lifetime. as soon as you start using them they start wearing. Koni's (at least the ones i have) are rebuildable, but you wont get them rebuilt for free.

Hey Walter, My struts have been cut and re welded as well, with adjustable shock collars welded on. running shorter VW Koni shocks. 2 years of circuit racing and day to day driving and they are fine. though i had it done by a professional fabricator....

Hey guys, i just moved to LA from Sydney for an 18 month stint for work. I'm missing all things Z related badly so i'd love to come along to a local club gathering, meet a few people and check some USA Z's! Im in Redondo beach is there anything around this area? thanks, Brett

yep, your shocks have too much travel. you can drill small holes in your spring seats, then cable tie or lock tie the springsto the seats ( not tight, just to stop the springs from being able to sit completely out of the seat). or you can get shocks with a shorter travel.......

Ok George lets get serious, Go and actually drive a fastback then hop back into your zed and make your decision. Theres no way an old heap of crap like that will even come close to matching the driving experience of your zed. yours has been built to drive hard and fast. go stop and handle like a real sports car. if you want an under-engineered lump of metal on wheels then by all means.... but you'll be spending alot more money to buy a car thats a whole lot slower DONT DO IT!!!!!!

hey ill be there for a look next year, itll be interesting to how you guys to things differently to aussie z's. i think my brain will haemorrage when i see hundreds of z's with their steering wheels on the wrong side! how far away is the show from Redondo?

if the leak lets air bypass the throttle body then yes it will increase the idle speed.

yep 6'7" and the 240 has the most comfortable driving position i ever driven. no problems with a helmet on either and my car has a sunroof.

nononono hang on a sec. Toe in / \ gives improved high speed stability, decreases turn in ability but will help more mid-corner once the weight has transfered to the outside tyre. acceleration will suffer (marginal- not noticebly) compared to zero toe. toe out \ / helps initial turn in but thats it. once the cars weight is on the outside tyre its of no help. stability suffers - makes the car wonder.

Hi guys, ib blew my gearbox a couple of weeks ago, when i pulled it i noticed it had "L7" stamped onto the side of the box, i replaced it with a box with "L5" stamped onto the side. the only difference i can see is the L7 has an extra sensor for what i assume is to tell a computer that the box isd in 5th? i also know that th L5 has a 2.9 frst gear. What are these boxes/what are they out of? thanks, Brett

try your local auto parts supplier. 'momo', 'BOSS' and 'sparco' wheels all fit on the same steering boss.

Hi everyone, does anyone have any experience with these moustache bars?? i dont want to fork out 230 US bucks and find its a piece of S#$t thanks, Brett

well im not talking about normal driving. peak performance the zx setup works alot better. even off the track a couple of hard stops from high speed is enough for z brakes to start heading south, and on on the track.... forget it, you might as well hold a pillow case out the window. i mean if your just going to cruise around in your z then yes the brake upgrade isnt much point, but start pushing it and the zx upgrade is quite useful. Im sure Gav isnt planning on just cruising around by the sound of it.

Zx discs have a smaller diameter than z discs but they are vented which makes all the difference. these work much better than z not vented discs.

ok some good points here but.... regardless of what alot of people think your sway bar CAN come into play when fitting lowered springs. yes a sway bar is not designed to put a force on the suspension in regards to the cars 'up and down' movement, but in real life at least a larger bar like the one mentioned will, becouse yeah you will get a little binding. unless your sway bar is the size of a toothpick it will never rotate freely in its bushes on the chassis. My car has an adjustable coil over spring setup and front 24mm sway bar. Im always mucking around with the ride height. If i bring down the collars under my springs to lower the ride height by 20mm the car might drop 2 or 3mm at best. next up is to adjust the sway bar mounts on each side (at the suspension arms). These are the upright links inbetween the sway bar and your suspension arm. increasing the length will reduce the pre load on the bar and let the springs compress to their normal level. try this out first becouse its very common with large sway bars, finding a bush to correctly fit a 24 or larger bar for an s30 isnt easy (at least in aus)

unbolt your swaybar and take it for a spin. the standard sway bar mounts will hold up a car with shorter springs. if this is the problem you will need adjustable sway bar mounts (they bolt onto the suspension arms)

yeah well 1 metre further forward and it would have ended back up in the wheel arch!

yeah i couldnt believe it! there i am just finishing up grinding into a sparking halt ( quite spectacular i was told by my dad who was following me) and all i could do was helplessly watch the wheel come flying at my passenger door. im sure it will all be quite funny once i get over it!