Brett240

id have to disagree with that one, V engines are definitly more stable than an inline 6. lets not forget the the RB26 is based off design that dates back to the early 80's, while the VQ engine is a recent design that makes close to the same power (with no turbo's) as an RB26 STOCK. It also has behind it all those years of development in things like combustion chamber efficiancy, balance, friction and so on. the VQ has alot of years of development still in it and wil doubtless be a far superior engine to the now outdated RB. my 2cents

i have the same problem and i (now) know what it is. i checked the front mount, replaced the u joints checked the bushings in the moustache bar, the diff has been recently rebuilt, i just couldnt figure out what was going on. then out of frustration whilei was putting he-man force on thehalf shaft nuts i noticed the diff rock to the side. the holes in the rear moustache bar that the diff bolts slide through have elongated so when getting on and off the accelerator the diff was rocking side to side, solution: new rear moustache bar.

Koslov, Te wheels on the red car are simmons FR18 wheels made in Oz. not sure if they are available in Canada or not. the owner of this car frequents this site as thatozzyguy.

no idea, mine had a 4.4 in it beofre i swapped for a 3.9 it was originally out of an R31 before being briefly used in a 240z drag car, hence the 4.4 i'd be suprised if the skyline didnt use either a 3.7 or 3.9

my R200 is out of an r 31 skyline GTS straight bolt in to a Z. not sure if the GTS was any different in the rear than the standard car.

youd be crazy not to put new rings in it if your pulling it down, it would be easier to stick with the carbs for now but its up to you really if you want to go through the trouble of putting on the injection. its a crap injection system anyway....

anything with a titanic engine sounds like fun to me! if dodge were ever to import one of their gigantic trucks to oz this would be the one!

hmmm, im convinced L14 rods are 137 mm, with L24 and L28 rods 133 and 130.3. i measured them when i rebuilt my engine and off the top of my head 137 is what i got, ill have to recheck that and get back to you.

Hi Nick, i have a set of these in my engine, i tried last year trying to track down another set for spares with no luck. Try warren at allzed and see if he can order them from Nissan Japan, its about your only hope. ive tried wreckers in NSW, QLD and VIC with no luck. The gerneral consensus being "ive never heard of an L14". I have also tried for them in the states. Your only other option is custom rods Frank, i believe the L14 4cyl was in a sedan body the same as the datsun 1600 aka 510. produced in very small numbers. im not sure what markets these cars were sent to maybe Alan knows? the rods are longer than L24/L28 rods and are great for getting serious compression. they also make for better conrod/crank geometry and hence more torque.

Hi Guys, im putin in new spicer u joints in the axle shafts on the weekend, any advice on how to do this? never don it before.cheers, Brett

well if he's that determined your buggered either way. at the end of the day no switch will stop him hard wiring fuel pump/dizzy/coil to the battery. or towing the bloody thing. at least if he is missing a vital component of the car it will take more time. at the end of the day if someone wants your car badly enough then its theirs for the taking. its a good thing for us Z's arent massivly desirable like some makes. over a one week period driving a family members series 6 RX7 i was followed twice and a mate caught 3 guys sussing it out in a car park. its unbelievable the disrespect some people have for others property.

yes but first they have to realise thats the problem and then find a rotor to fit. its going to take a lot longer to solve than a kill switch. ***edit: especially in the middle of the night****

take the rotor button out of the dizzy.

sounds pretty normal to me, if the gauge goes past the middle then it sounds ok. what RPM does your car idle at? L series engines dont have much oil pressure, they dont need it. on an aftermarket gauge mine shows 10 PSI at 750RPM and on the move maxes out at around 55PSI. If your worried about oil pressure then put in a turbo pump with stonger springs.

thanks daddz, im actually pretty happy with the amount of throw, just the position of the stick seems too far forward compared to the stock lever. 1st 3rd amnd 5th are aq bit of a reach

bought "the run" a few months ago, not quite exciting as getaway in stockholm, watching it you get the impression he could have pushed harder. Hey Alan, what is the 275 movie called? where can you get it from.

Hhhm yeah i might have a practise run with some copper, thanks. the MSA shifter is black anyway so its easy to fix the blemishes from heating it luckily.

Anyone found the supplied shifter sits too far towards the front of the car? it seems a bit of a stretch to change gears. will heating and bending it cause the metal to weaken too much?

spot on, we can really only guess bevcouse each engine with its own individual setup will be a little different. what i can tell you from personal experience, with a 3 litre (though mines bored not stroked) is that i ve found the hotter the better (as long as your head doesnt warp and this doesnt effect the air intake temps) as on a previous post my engine put out its best figures at 210 degrees. what you have to watch is that the heat soak created by this temp can warm your intake temp especially at traffic lights, so its a trade off. if you are consantly moving (like on a track) than you want to run hotter, though if your a traffic light drag artist than a little cooler so your intake temps arent effected as much.

you really need to know what temp your car is actually running at. i i uns at 160 degrees than yes this is to cold for any type of use. though as 2 many said just becouse you have a 160 thermo in doesnt mean that it will run at 160. either way having the thermo fully open at 160 is to early. having a 195 means that the thermostat will be closed (or mostly) below this temp, so the engine will most likely not get cooler than this. if the engine wants to run hotter than 195 it will regardless of wether you have a 160 or 195. in other words, a 195 thermo will not cause the engine to overheat easier.

dreco, 195 is fine for road and track, as long as your engine is holding this temp. the original gauge isnt perfect for telling the temp, if your running track you might want to think about an aftermarket gauge. just to let you know, i had my car on the dyno running for 3 hours at 210 degrees, this is where it made the most power, when the temp was down from this it lost power and torque, we even ran a 7000RPM pass at 228 degrees for the sake of curiosity( though i wouldnt recommend this ) with no damage, so they can run a little warmer so if your thermostat is fully open at 195 then this is fine. by the way what radiator are you running? 3.0 plus L engines run notoriously hot, though if your temps are soaring on a track then you have a problem.

trs, you cant get adstable koni red's for 240z's as far as i know. i can use them becouse my struts have been shortened. i use shocks out of a VW golf. you right with k mak, he didnt kno what he was talking about. K mak had a presentation for the Sydeny z club a few months back. they cant make the strut tops for Z's becouse the tops are too small. they make up an adjustable lower link that needs to be welded in. im sure G260 can chime in here as he has an adjustable lower arm available from melbourne i think?

Hi Trs, I use Koni Red's in shortened stuts with adjustable platforms. with 500 pound springs all round my rear shocks are adjusted just a shade off full hard on the back and completely soft on the front. i need slighlty harder springs in the back to dial out a little bit of understeer. If you will do hill climbs/ wakefield etc and ride quality isnt a big issue then i'd go a little harder on the spring rates. i have fairly heavy springs but they are only bad on pretty rough surfaces. the seppo's have it right with the different rates though, you need harder springs in the rear, go for a 25 pound difference. In the end its a comprimise but i would think 200 pound springs are a little on the soft side for light track work. hope this helps!

DatFreak, 220 pound springs wont be to stiff for street use. my car is a part time track car with 500 pound springs, i drive it to work every day. while its a little too stiff for the street (you learn to dodge everything that doesnt resemble a perfect surface ) it can still be driven with relative comfort, so in comparison220 pound springs will be fine comfort wise on the street. Kyteler, i have found a front strut brace increases initial turn in response though this is really only noticeable on a track.

Bingo. Thanks Ben, i need it to run my fuel injection in sequential mode. with the home sensor being seperate how does this work?is it still in the dizzy or does it run off something else?