Brett240

gday guys, does anybody know if the 280zx used a 360 degree optical pickup in its distributer? or any other car that uses an optical timing sensor in its dizzy that might bolt into an L series engine?

refering to my original post, id say the manufacture stating no more than 67% would have more to do with the mixtures ability to transfer heat decreases as the additive percentage increases, and the resulting engine temp issues. (which, and im not neccessarily right on this point, would not show up on the tepm gauge as the gauge only shows water temp and not the temp of the engine)

done!

Bambikiller, i realise you didnt write this article so take no offense but this statement: However, now the reasoning is to use regular tap water because water normally likes to have ions floating around. If it doesn't, then it gets them from wherever it can. Aluminum readily ionizes, so the distilled water "steals" the ions from the aluminum is crap. Distilled 'de-ionized' water will not "steal" Ions from the aluminium. it will take nothing at all from the aluminium. normal tap water has various flourides, calcium, ions and other deposits that build up on aluminium in areas and cause corrosion. using tap water is a big cause of electrolysis corrosion in coolant systems, which destroys aluminium. Most Aluminium radiator manufacturers can do an electrolysis test for you on your coolant system to see if you have this, and will also recommend distilled water. please avoid using tap water. again no offence meant.

yeah if you live in mild climate your best to use as little anitfreeze as possible. distilled water works best as the heat transfer properties of water are more effective than aftermarket coolants, tranfering the heat from the engine and out through the radiator better. unless you live where you see freezing temps the only use coolant additives have is their rust protection ptoperties, so its a good idea to put some in. ( i use about a 20% ethlyglycol/water mix) as for the benifits of coolants raising the boiling point of your fluid, if your engine gets hot enough to boil water in a pressurised coolant system then you have a more serious problem to worry about than your coolant mix.

check out www.simmonswheel.com.au you'll probably have to get em retail, Simmons will custom make your wheels to order but only through i retailer i think. Try www.tyres.com these guys are pretty cheap and know their stuff but they are in Sydney.

you can make up a box like the mas one pretty easliy with some MDF, a modern stereo will fit through the old stereo slot, a small amount of filing might be needed but it should go in. i dont use the steel outer mounting case in mine. pull the passenger seat out and see if the AMP will fit, other than the firewall on the passenger side therent arent any real good mounting positions.

AHA! this is where your oil pump shaft should be at piston 1 TDC courtesy of: http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/

Have you tried adjusting the butterfly on the carb to get a constant idle? it might be fully closed with no throttle. if fuel is backfiring out through the carb then this could also be that your mixtures are too lean besides timing.

ill stick with my previous statementLOL and ya got me there mate, a "pot" of beer is a new one on me too.

for you aussies, on the new HPI ( high performance imports) volume 5 there is a 240z that ran a 10.18 in japan with a triple webber naturaly aspirated L28. Long live the L engine!

hmm maybe its my young age that steered me clear of this saying!

yeah they can be pretty loud. i have one feeding a surge tank for my EFI pump. if its similar to mine they are capable of 15PSI with good voltage. I wouldnt want to put any more pressure than this on your float bowls. i think the stock elec pump is around 6 PSI (correct me if im wrong guys?) and with 10.5 volts it will be a little lower than 15 anyway. the part that will let go if it does is the little valve in your float bowl that closes when the bowl is full. if it dies (and they are pretty cheap and easy to replace) your carbs will flood. did the pump come with rubber mounting blocks? you can use insulation on the pump to quiet it. mine hangs loose off the mounts so its not tight on the chassis, that helps too.

looks good to me, let us know how you go, and weather or not you blow the arse out of your float bowls from to much pressure. you should be ok though.

biker that must be a queensland thing. us new south welshmen have no idea what your talking about! SuDz, Come on to the forums again just before you leave, we'll see if we can get you on board a GTR for nighttime Sydney cruise

fair enough... does it have a PSi rating on the box?

actually i got it off the throttle body thread:D

what type of carter did you end up getting? oh and while those headers are sitting around off the car, you might consider getting them ceramic coated. it will help alot with underbonnet temps. check out www.240z.id.au he his done with a HPC coating up in QLD somewhere...

yeah i think you mean wollongong. its a bit under an hour south of the airport, 25 min from my place. theres 2 ways down there, the freeway or the old road which runs along the coast fill of twists and perfect for a nice datto. its a good uni, i have lots of mates there. how long you comin to oz for?

unbolt it, take it off and put a plate over it to cover the hole. then hook some new fuel hose up to your metal fuel lines. completely straight forward. you can leave it in there and just bypass it, but all it will do sitting there is add drag on your camshaft (the pump operates off a lobe on the front of the cam).

oh by the way if you go with the electric pump throw the mechanical one in the bin. it will end up being more of a hindrance than a helper. with the electric pump being able to flow better the mechanical pump will turn into a restriction in the line...

you gotta remember Gav, Datto-zed lives in townsville, its bloody hot up there, the heat soak that would be produced from a couple of minutes sitting in the sun would be intense. the mechanical L series Pump doesnt hold up well in really hot weather. your right though it probably isnt putting out enough PSI but i doubt even a new mechanical pump would be able to keep enough pressure to stop the problem especially with summer ciming up. another advantage of an electric pump is that you can turn it on before the car is stared, this will pump fuel through the lines and help purge them of vapour before the engine is started. datto-zed, if you go with an electric pump see if you can get the original electric pump bracket that is located in front of the fuel tank, this will make life easier with mounting. its up to you what pump you use, just make sure its a carby pump. you should be able to get one pretty cheap at a wrecker, i think a carter pump is a couple of hundred bucks.