Brett240

if your getting up too 40 degree days then im suprised your vapour lock isnt worse. the more prssure you run through the lines the less problems you'll have with vapour lock. though never use an EFI pump with carbies, thats too much pressure. change to an electic pump, as 260zed stated try an RX7 pump off a carbureted car or by a new carter carby pump. also heat shielding your fuel lines that run through the engine bay to your carbs can help.

yeah i thought that would cause a problem too. walter fath built the engine originally with an e88 head and a spacer plate, when i changed to the P90 from memory the words F%$#*ng close were used here. but it all bolted together ok and runs fine. the head gasket is a standard thickness graphite gasket. ive been thinking about different slugs for a while whats the pin height and diameter on a VG30 piston? ill do a check on that piston/deck height again

the KA 24 e pistons is out of a Nissan Pintara 4 cylinder. the L 14 rods are out of a datsun 510 that had a 1400cc engine in it. very very rare. i tired to hunt down spares for my engine, searched australia, america and japan for them and couldnt find them. the L14 rod is longer than the L24 rod. not sure of the compression of this combo, check the engine calculator, though mine is about 10.2 to 1, both my block and pistons have been decked.

its an L28 crank with L 14 rods and KA24e pistons with a P90 head, combustion chamber 46cc. problem is the block has been decked so putting those specs in the engine calculator wont be accurate. i know for sure that my pistons clear the block im just not sure how much(from memory 2mm is what it was) this was visible when we rebuilt the engine.

just how far out of the deck is too far? im 99% sure my pistons clear the deck by 2mm...

i just finished doing this with good results except the injectors are in the manifold itself. check out my gallery. hey alan, do you have a link to a store in the uk that supplies the throttle position sensor? mine mounts off the throttle shaft behinf the webbers and im not totally happy with it.

if anyone is after this kit try: http://www.fibresports.com.au they are the cheapest around that i know of.

"If the front of the car is 9 o'clock and the passenger front wheel is 12 o'clock then the dizzy should point halfway between 11 and 12 o'clock. (Not 100 percent on that correct me if I need it guys). " This bit is Absolutley crucial. i have a book at home that has a picture of where this should be at TDC. if someone doesnt beat me to it ill post overnight.

whoa this sounds like a bit of a nightmare, when you took the oil pump out did you put it back 100% on the right timing? one tooth out and the thing will either idle like a dog or wont start at all.

your throtlle position switch(TPS) might be sticking inside, you put your foot on the gas which opens the butterfly but if the TPS is sticking it wont tell the computer that the engine is now off idle and your mixture will lean right out resulting in a big hesitation until you air flow meter compensates and your mixtures return to normal. just a thought.

yeah it is a bit strange i know, i lot of guys fit the catch tank off the 260z, or run the hose up into the cabin so it doesnt leak on the ground ( a side benifit being that refreshing fuel smell). amazingly mines been like that since 1972 and never caught fire.

oh and datto-zed, is it definitley coming out the overflow? the start of the overflow hose is right at the top of the filler neck, the bowser should click off before it gets that high. if its clicking off you have a leak in either the filler neck, top of the tank or out of your tank return line.

Carl, Right hand drive 240's vent straight onto the ground. its interesting to see one go through a left hand corner with a full tank and spew fuel out all over the ground....

its a custom system, have a look in my gallery. its been a bit of a pain in the arse but its almost sorted now, the injectors are mounted in the webber manifold. sorry im actually unfamiliar with the way webbers work as im only using them as throttle bodies,did the idle screws go in before the butterfly's or after? where are the progression holes? are these in the top of the webber?

Hi guys, im in a bit of a jam, ive put on a custom fuel injection system that uses webbers as throttle bodies but i cant get the thing to idle below 1800RPM. even when the butterfly's are closed off it still runs at 1800. is there anything after the butterfly's on webbers where air could be getting in? ive take the fuel needles out as there are now fuel injectors down stream.

generally aftermarket coil over setups use narrower srpings and seatss, so there is a greater gap in between the wheel and spring allowing for a wider rim.

alternativly if you are heading to sydney check out brighton le sands on a sunday night. ill be damned if you dont see 20 of them cruising around.

Proxlamus, do you have an R200 open diff installed at the moment? if you do then its a straight bolt in, just check to make sure the flanges for the tailshaft and half shafts are the same as your original diff

hey does any one have any experience with a cross flow design over a 3 core straight up and down design radiator? i have the latter and im after better cooling, Cheers, Brett

yep me too, if that red front spoiler is available in sweden, then ill by one for sure!

when i had standard suspension i could get 16 by 7's under each corner with 225 50 series tyres no problem, though it was a snug fit, but no rubbing anywhere

ive got a set of pacemaker exctractors with a 2 1/2 inch straight through exhaust, one resonator and one straight through muffler. its as loud as hell and drones like crazy at 2000RPM but you get used to it. i dragged an LS1 comodorre ute who swore blind i had a V8 under the bonnet, its got a nice rumble to it at idle