Carl Beck

As I recall - by 1973/74 and perhaps a little before - Jim Cook Racing offered a belt driven supercharger kit for the Datsun 240-Z. At something around $1,500.00 at the time, it did not become even the least bit common. There is one original owner of a 1971 Datsun 240-Z here in Pinellas County (Clearwater, Largo, St. Petersburg etc), Florida - that still has the JCR kit on his Z. Boost has been held down to 8lbs and the car has less than 100K miles. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne/Ron: Oops.. my bad... thanks for catching that. 4.125 inch backspace minus 0.5 for the outter rim thinkness = 3.625 inch. the centerline of a 6" wheel is at 3" so positve offset for the matting surface is 0.625 in or 15.8mm FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rolf: "Offset" is not marked on the wheels, so I've had to measure "Backspace" and calculate "offset" from there. Offset on the 14x5 inch OEM steel wheel is 0.59 inch (15mm) positive. Add 1/2 inch for rim thickness and you have a backspace of 3.59 inch (91.186mm). The 14x6 Minilite's have an offset of 1.25 inch (31.75mm) positive. Add 1/2 inch for rim thickness and you have a backspace of 4.125 inch (104.775mm). In effect - of the additional inch of width, 0.535 inch is added toward the inside of the car and 0.465 inch is added to the outside. The typical 14x7 inch wheels for the 240Z's are advertised as "0" offset. So that would give you a 4 inch backspace. Hope that answers your question. Carl B.

He said he'd love to find it - he didn't say he wanted to buy it back. FWIW, Carl B.

It would help a lot if you could provide more specifics. What are you ready to buy? a) a car that you intend to refresh or restore a nice weekend driver - that you can "improve" in small incremental steps over time c) a solid #3 Condition 240-Z that you can drive on weekends and take to local club meetings or shows and not be making excuses for d) a solid #2 Condition car that is ready to drive across America, or put in State Level Shows e) a #1 Condition car - ie an all but new 240-Z. f) a solid body that you can put an L28 turbo or V8 in What budget or price range do you have in mind - what are you willing or able to spend? a) $3,500.00 to $5,500.00 $8K to $12K c) $15K to $18K d) $20K to $25K e) $30K to $45K Different selections from the above alternatives - would most likely result in different recommendations. No sense in getting advice or recommendations related to buying a Vintage Z Program car or #2 Condition show car - if you your thinking of buying a driver for $5K. FWIW, Carl B.

The rear hatch sill plate - or threshold plate - was originally part of the Assy Panel Rear 79100-E4650. Nissan had the threshold plate reproduced for the Vintage Z Program. While they were available, they sold for around $125.00 retail. The last one's that some of the aftermarket vendors had - sold for around $250.00 as I recall. I have a Restoration Parts List somewhere - but can't find it right now... Other then finding one that someone has stuck away - you might find a good parts car to take one out of... or metal patch the one you have... The reproductions from Australia are good - but they are not perfect reproductions. FWIW, Carl B.

As the batch size goes UP the unit price comes DOWN. The economic lot size is around 35 sets. Anything less than that and the price per unit goes way up. The last time we had about 38 sets (4 per set) pre-sold and Courtesy took the whole order for 45 sets. This was simply a Z Car Community Support effort on the part of Courtesy Nissan Parts. A way of thanking the IZCC and the Classic Z Car Club for their patronage over the years. I doubt they covered their actual costs involved by the time you include the actual cost of the springs, the time taken to mark and repack every set, and then to ship them out to the buyers. Prepurchase they were $165.00 per set of 4. IZCC and Classic Z Car Club Members paid $245.00 if they didn't prepurchase. Standard Internet Price was $279.95 As I recall the shipping was a flat $25.00 per set of 4. The last time - the Stock and Euro Spec springs had not been available for many years, so there was sufficient pint-up demand to support such an effort. I doubt we could get anywhere near 40 people to sign up today, and I'm sure that Courtesy couldn't afford to be so generous given the state of most Automobile Dealerships now. Might be worth a try at the end of 2009 if the economy looks like it is going to pick up... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: Given the prominence of both Mr. Lucas and Mr. Brock, I suggested that the Brocks put the still images taken at the filming of this short movie - on line for all of us to enjoy. This has now been done and its another amazing story in and of itself. According to Mr. Brock: George Lucas's first love was CARS, and he had planned to become a professional race car driver. A serious accident shortly after his High School graduation in 1962 ended that dream. A few years later, in 1966 Lucas was a student at USC film school with the assignment of directing a short film. Still interested in cars, he wrote a script for a film called "1:42:08 To Qualify". Knowing Alan Grant at Shelby America Lucas ask for a recommendation for a driver for his film. Grant recommended Peter Brock, who had been a consultant and driver for the movie industry. (e.g. stunt driver in the 1964 movie "The Killers"). Brock had left Shelby America just months before to open his own company - BRE. Mr. Brock borrowed a Lotus 23 and a few days were spent filming at the Willow Springs Race Track under the direction of Mr. Lucas. Brock says the most memorable part of the experience were the evenings where they hung out and Lucas shared his vision for a series of sci-fi movies. “It sounded kind of like Buck Rogers with strange creatures and better weapons. Very strange and we just kind of nodded and patronized this enthusiastic kid.” Even to this day Brock gets emotional relaying the story. There’s nothing that touches Brock more than seeing someone with a unique vision make their dreams come true, especially if they’re going against standard conventions... sounds kind of like the story of the Cobra Daytona Coupe, doesn’t it? If you would like to see - or better still own a copy - of the pictures taken in 1966, just visit the BRE Web Site: http://BRE2.net Look under "PHOTOGRAPHY".. then select BRE Archives to view the pictures. Amazing.... now I'm looking for a copy of "The Killers" FWIW, Carl B.

Having had the same problem - My battery cable terminals when hooked to the terminals on the battery - hit the frame that surrounds the battery. On the original batteries - the battery terminals were offset from the centerline toward the front or back of the battery. On the Optima they are close to the centerline. So they don't line up with the little cutouts on the battery hold down frame. I cut the plastic height adaptor and put it on top of the battery - so that the battery cable terminals would go under the battery hold down frame. Worked for me - but I'm not really happy with the look.. FWIW, Carl B.

The Protective Body Side Molding was installed at the Dealerships on most 70-73 240-Z's sold here in the US. It added extra profit to the car for the Dealers - and it actually did a pretty good job of preventing door dings in most cases. It is most likely aluminum with vinyl inserts - and most of them were pop riveted on. Just weld up the holes when you remove them... FWIW, Carl B.

Gayle Brock said that they (the Brocks) have several of the Still Photo's from that weekend and they may be more interesting than the film. She said Peter was still at Shelby America when it was shot. Wonder if UCLA released it from their archive - or if its bootlegged.. FWIW, Carl B.

AND Actually it is hard to tell - you have not given us enough specific information. That could be because you do not yet have a clearly written, specific estimate, for the work proposed. All manor of numbers can be and usually are thrown around when guys at the "shop" are just talking, or trying to give answers off the top of their heads.... usually that is worthless data. First place to start is to ask the shop or shops you are considering to give you a written estimate, that shows clearly and in detail all labor costs (not just a total), and the specific parts as well as machine shop charges expected. That shouldn't be too hard from them to do, if they have much experience with the L Series engines. If your shop said "top to bottom" - - does that price include six new pistons, a new cam and all new rockers, retainers. Does it include 12 new valves & seats? Does it include having the machine shop hot tank, bore and deck the block? Are the crank and rods going to be shot peened and magnifluxed? Actually it's easy to "spend" $5,500.00 rebuilding an engine. The question is - "is it necessary for your purposes?" It is also easy to make more "profit" on a job that the customer pays $3,500.00 for - if all that is included in the "rebuilt" is rings/bearings and fresh valve job. Not to mention - answering the question of who is going to pull and reinstall the engine in the car. Then there is this thing called "schedule". I've seen cars in the shop, work completed and the customer drives out happy in two weeks - - I've seen others that took four months to six months. Shops that underbid the work, get into the engine and then have no real motivation to finish it.... so it gets constantly put behind more profitable work... while they blame the machine shop for the hold-up. All the advice so far has merit - but I really think your starting point has to be to establish a very specific baseline - - and that means getting detailed and clearly written estimates from any shop. The estimate has to include a completion date or specific number of weeks it will take, with associated discounts when it isn't completed on time. Last thought - I agree that if you want performance - swap the SU's onto a rebuilt L28... The advantage there also includes a quick turn-around. After the L28 is rebuilt and ready to go - you'd only be in the shop for a day - - then out driving again... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Paul: Not to be too critical - but you ask. I've expanded it to include the engine compartment. Consistency is one key. I think you have too many conflicting colors going on. You may already be planning on some of this additional work - but I'll mention it away for discussion purposes. If you can - keep everything Red, Gloss Black and natural Aluminum. Three colors are plenty to highlight different parts and aspects of the engine compartment. Four or five gets to busy and starts to confuse the minds eye. a) get rid of the frayed and dull OEM braided hoses. Brake Vacuum Hose and heater hoses. Replace them with newer OEM non-braided hoses. Clean and Armor-All them to be as gloss black as the new fuel lines. get rid of the Blue spark plug wires - and replace them with the black OEM wires. Black and Blue looks like a bruise.. c) clean and Armor-all the radiator hoses - so they have the same shinny black appearance as the fuel lines and new vacuum lines d) take the alternator off - clean and paint the case to match the valve cover - OR bead blast it to match the intake manifold. e) of course - clean and polish the radiator and the "finger guard" to match the valve cover f) paint the caps on the brake master cylinder black to match the cap on the clutch master g) carefully remove the colored "stickers" from the battery - keep them if you need them for warranty purposes. Leave everything on around the battery "black" with the exception of the Red positive line. h) re-wrap the main wire harness - so it's clean/shinny black again. o) take the plastic fresh air inlets off - clean fully and Armor-All them to be shinny black again. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi SandyI: I guess I'm somewhat like your Father-In-Law, in that I bought my first 240-Z in 1970. I'm somewhat like you because prior to buying the 240-Z I was driving a 67 Porsche 911S (also had a 55 T-Bird at the time). I had planned on buying a 70 911E.. but the Porsche Dealer blew me out the door with a silly offer.... So I happened to pass a DATSUN dealer on the way home, where I saw and then drove my first 240-Z. I've been driving them ever since. If your 240-Z is in pretty good condition - I think you'll find that they are so mechanically simple, that you can develop some DIY skills in support of them. Especially if you gain a few knowledgeable Z Car friends that will help you with the small projects. I've always loved the early 911's for what they are - but I have to say that in almost every measure the Datsun 240-Z was a superior offering. Although it is hard to beat a rear engine/rear drive car on the ice or in tight 180 degree turns.. I'm sure that as you drive the 240-Z more - you'll really enjoy it. Good thing that your Father-In-Law gave you the car - - - your wife can't really get too bent out of shape when it takes time and money away from of her nest... FWIW, Carl B.

I will tell the seller: They are NOT Dealer Posters. They were created and printed for the Z Car Club Association {ZCCA}. The purpose was to raise money to pay for part of Mr. K's expenses incurred traveling to the US from Japan and back, so Mr. K could attend the ZCCA Annual Convention in 1996; as well as to fund other ZCCA activities. To my knowledge, none were "given" to any Dealers. All were signed personally by Mr. K. I was first in line to buy some at the 1996 Convention in Denver. The #1 Poster was held, for a later auction so I bought #2 and several others {I think 10 or 12 in all}. I gave some to friends and I still have #2, #3, #5, #7, Artist Proof #42 and #69.

ZDC-2 - Zinc cover A2=Aluminum cover For the 260Z's cars with the Zinc covers were recalled - and they were replaced with Aluminum covers. Bad reactions with US fuel additives and Zinc as I recall.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guus: Thanks for the report - did you get any detailed pictures of the Z? Carl B.

HI Guys: I like the Stahl and/or Nissan Competition headers the most. They had better overall quality, especially at the mounting flange. I built that dual exhaust system for my Z when I had the Muffler Shop in the 70's. Nothing to it really. Although you want to keep it tight up under the car. No room for sloppy work there.. I used resonators in the middle in addition to two steel packs at the rear. I don't believe you can get steel packs anymore - EPA didn't like them. It was perhaps one of the best sounding systems I've had on the Z, even if it wasn't the most efficient for performance. Nonetheless it certainly gave better flow than the OEM system. The glass packs do burn out too quickly and without the resonators in the center, that system can get loud. FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks guys. I'm sure there is a home for them out there somewhere. Carl B.

This is the listing on the ZHome.com server for ZOOM.. http://mnzclub.com/ Looks like it is correct FWIW, Carl B.

Looks like a very nice 280Z that has been well cared for. Great find East of the Mississippi and someone has put a lot of additional work/money into it already. Great color as well. I'm sure you'll enjoy it for years to come. FWIW, Carl B.

Before I put them on E-Bay I thought I'd offer them here. If anyone here wants a set of period correct MiniLites for their 240Z, I have a new set, never mounted. MiniLite makes limited runs of these wheels only when they receive larger bulk orders. I believe these were produced in the 80's. They are 14"x6" with lug nuts and center caps. $850.00 plus shipping This is the wheel that Panasport copied... PM me or E-mail me at beck@becksystems.com if you want them. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Steve: I stand corrected. If you focus too closely - these numbers start to move in the columns. I should have read farther down - #16's note just said; " add MSA's type 111 air dam"... so I was thinking that was the only change. Now reading #17 it does say "block off upper half of air dam". But looking at the pictures, it looks like they really blocked off the area that would have been above the bumper. Nonetheless, it looks like they did remove all other "blocking" from the BRE test at #16. BTW - - BRE Spook #13 the CLF should be .342 {I think you show CL above which was .279} So: Positive Number = down-force Negative Number = lift As I understand it - that is because the sensors are below the wheels. So positive numbers push the car down on the sensors increasing the numbers on the gauge, where negative numbers show the car lifting off the sensors. <pre> BRE #13 CLF=0.342 lbs. of lift(down-force)=233 lbs of drag=307 MSA #16 CLF=0.287 lbs. of lift(down-force)=196 lbs of drag=300 The BRE Spook puts 37 lbs more down-force on the front of the car at the expense of 7 additional lbs of drag. But look what they both do to lift/down-force on the rear wheels BRE #13 lbs of lift rear = -43.158 MSA #16 lbs of lift rear = -54.850 </pre> Pushing the nose of the car down - should off-load ie. raise the rear. I would guess that the BRE Spook even though it pushes the nose down farther - doesn't raise the rear as much, because it is directing more airflow over the top - and having more effect of the rear spoiler. Where the MSA air dam puts more air around the sides of the car. So less drag, but allows more lift on the rear. At any rate - the guys at HybridZ did a great job and I hope they do another run. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: So do you believe that these TSO's are incorrect? They would seem to indicate that the Series I cars all came with VOSS locks/keys. I think he needs to assure that he gets a VOSS lock cylinder, and a VOSS key blank, if the TSO's are correct. FWIW, Carl B.

$2350.00 USD - just to register the car!!! YIEKS!!! The car only cost about $4600.00 new in 1973!! So much for free trade.... FWIW, Carl B.