Carl Beck

Hi Rob / everyone: Thanks !! Just today another friend called to see if I was aware of it, and of course I wasn't. I think Florida gets distribution last... When the article came out in the Sep. issue it seemed that everyone had it at least two weeks before it arrived here. So I'll be looking forward to seeing it. Mr. Brock spent about 4 1/2 hours shooting the photos and I was somewhat surprised the the editors used so many B&W pictures from 73, and only a few from the photo shoot. BRE has a color picture and a couple of B&W's from the Baja, of the Z in their archives at BRE2.net http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=B&Category_Code=brearchivephotos240zs I "DROVE" the BRE Baja Z from Clearwater to Polk City, Florida weekend before last for the Roar & Soar.. about 70 miles each way. It was a blast to say the least. The reaction from the people on the road was pretty much the same. They would come up behind and stay there for a few seconds, then pull up along side and look the car over, then give a big smile and thumbs-up. I try to stay close to the speed limits as the car is a RED FLAG to cops, and I don't need the hassle of not having a rear bumper in place... other than that it is actually road legal. Given the fact that the last fill-up was at $10.20 per gallon, I don't drive it as much as I should. I also have a very hard time keeping with the speed limits.. this engine just sings at 7000 to 7500 RPMLOL FWIW, Carl B.

Cadmium and Zinc used for electroplating both produce a light gray color outcome. To get that Golden/Yellow color, they are bathed in a Yellow Chromate bath. You can find plating companies that will use Cadmium, but they are usually DoD/NASA subcontractors and the process is more expensive than using Zinc, because it is more expensive to get rid of the used chemicals. Cadmium offers about three times the durability of Zinc, left untreated both will oxidize - that is why they receive a Chromate/Dichromate bath after plating. If you tell most plating companies that you want Yellow Cad plating - they will respond that "yes they can do that". When you drill down to the actual details their story will change to "well Cad and Zinc produce the same results and we use Zinc. They look the same." The turth is they don't produce the same results. Zinc can be made to look very much like Cad. if the chromate bath is properly supervised, but it can't duplicate the durability of Cadmium. Parts in the engine compartment get thermo cycled and that accelerates the decay of the plating. Anyway, that's what the guys in the Materials Lab tell me, and that's what the owner of Clearwater Classic Chrome confirms. FWIW, Carl B.

Saying he has the splash pan "for" the car - is not the same as saying he has the splash pan "off" that car. I belleve the seller has or has had other 240-Z's. FWIW, Carl B.

Only about 12% of the 240-Z's sold in North America during 72/73 were A/T's. Add that to the mileage and you would have a pretty rare car. I think in this case the A/T would not have much of a negative effect. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike. Here in North America, the splash pans came on most of the early Series I cars, but not all. They seem to have been deleted from the standard build for this market sometime in 1970. They returned later in the 1973 Model Year... after they started having hot weather running problems. I don't recall seeing any TSB that specified and end date for them, although it was common to see TSB's that announced any production changes. FWIW, Carl B.

I have one of the roof racks - and I used to have a pop-up tent that mounted on top the Z The blue z for $5K looks like it might be a good deal.. FWIW, Carl B.

No. I'm saying that if you took your 73 back to the dealer when it was new, because it didn't run correctly - they had a series of modifications that they would perform on the car in an attempt to solve the problems. A couple of things they did, was to install electric fuel pumps and the splash pans along with radiator shrouds. They did lots of other modifications to the carb.'s, air cleaners etc. If everything prior failed the last resort was to cut a hole in the hood and mount a hood scoop. The hood scoop really didn't scoop air - so much as it let underhood hot air out. If you have an early 73 with a splash pan it was most likely installed by the Dealer under warranty. Likewise the electric fuel pump. With only 6K miles on the Silver car - I'm not surprised the owner didn't take it back to the Dealer - he wasn't driving it daily. FWIW. Carl B.

Yes, it is correct. Yes that is a shame. Wonder what caused it. Thats what it looks like. The early 73's did not come with splash pans. As I recall, it was only after the customer complaints about poor starting and running in hot weather that all the attempts to modify the US cars started. Cars produced much later finally started coming from the Factory with the splash pans and electric fuel pumps installed. I'd bet that siren is part of an alarm system. Looks like the original owner intended to keep the car. As I understand the story, he did keep it until he died. Then his widow sold it locally. Yes, it could use some careful cleanup. I don't know the car - but it would seem that the seller could provide the widow's name and contact information - if he is willing to. On the other hand, have you ever seen an original Datsun 240-Z with it's original 175HR14 tires still on the car? I haven't. I've never seen a lower mileage example either. If the Blue 71 with 66K miles is hitting the $14K mark already.. it will be interesting to see how the two finish at final bids. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gary: No - the OEM styled steel wheels were 14"x5" from 1972 model year through the end of the 260Z's in North America in 1974. I don't know about the 280Z's - but I haven't seen any OEM steel wheels that were more than 5" wide. FWIW, Carl B.

Price on the original steel rims seems to be a matter of where you are. Here in Florida a good set of 4 in the 14x4.5 size they might be $200.00. On the other hand if your looking for wheels stamped 10/69 they might be $400.00 to $600.00 FWIW, Carl B.

Rob's car...

Sold - went to Saudia.... I believe... Loaded in a Shipping container..

That looks like a Series II console. Series I consoles did not have a molded end brace - they used a metal brace epoxied to the console as I recall. The dimensions you give would be for a Series II fuse box access cover. What are the objects or holes next to the large hole for the cig. lighter in that ash tray? FWIW, Carl B.

A small carbon deposit/chunk can get lodged between the valve and valve seat - thus preventing the valve from fully closing.. In the old days, local mechanics would start the car, warm it up, and then mist water vapors into the carb intake while increasing the RPM... They just used a spray bottle... I'm not recommending this - just mention it to show how common a problem it used to be... I still can't believe that given that cars history, and mileage - that anything serious could be causing the problem... Since you already have the intake/exhaust manifolds off - go ahead and pull the engine and put it on an engine stand. Pull the head, clean up the piston tops - and send the head to a good shop to be checked. The E-31's were noted for cracking around the exhaust valves. At the same time you can pull the front cover and pan - clean, detail (repaint the block, bead blast the front cover - and reseal the engine). replace the front and rear main seals, freeze plugs etc. Clean/polish the engine compartment - and reinstall the engine.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ron: I like that - "things I used to know" qualifier. So I'll use it as well. AM broadcast radio signals are capable of going around the world as they bounce off the earths upper atmosphere - and are broadcast with various amounts of out put power from the sending unit. In almost every case the longer/larger the antenna the better. (as the lower frequency wave lengths are longer). Depending on the quality/sensitivity of the receiver - and the band separation of the tuner dial - it may be necessary to damp out weak signals, so that the signal seeking radio will stop only on strong signals. FM on the other hand works best with an antenna length of limited length (30 to 32 inches comes to mind - but I wouldn't bet anything on that memory), or one that has a resister built in to filter out high frequency noise. Be that as it may - you are correct - the AM radio's in the Z's have an "antenna trimmer" screw - located just forward of the antenna input on the case. I just looked at two of the one's I have in the house. BTW - did you used to hook your crystal radio set to the steel bed springs of your bed? FWIW, Carl B.

This past weekend a few of us from the Tampa Bay area attended the annual "Roar & Soar" event at the Fantasy Of Flight Museum in Polk City, Florida. If you haven't been to the museum, you owe it to yourself to go. Several WW-II Period War Birds, a Super G- Constellation and older Bi-Planes etc. http://www.fantasyofflight.com/ There is a car show and the Jaguar Club puts on an auto-cross. They seem to run the same course each year, as they keep records of the previous track record for Fastest Time Of Day. It was held by a very professionally prepared, full race, E-Type at 42.0 seconds. I say "it was held" because Bill Coffee took his Z this year... Bill cranked out the Fastest Time Of Day both Saturday and Sunday.. 40.019 and 40.992 shattering the old record. Video of an E-Type running the course, followed by Bill's Z. < FWIW, Carl B.

You need to take clear photos showing the details of the car if you want to sell it. You would have to get the car up on a lift and take pictures of the floorboards and framerails - especially when the car is located in the North, Mid-West or North Eastern States... With the pictures you posted, there is really no way to even guess if $2.8K is too much or far too little. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bruce: So I take it that the answer to my question is "NO" it will not be $5,500.00. FWIW, Carl B.

News from The Datsun Heritage Museum: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Fred Jordan writes: It is my pleasure to announce that Yutaka Katayama (Mr. K) our friend, and mentor was recently inducted into the JAHFA (Japanese Hall of Fame Association). Congratulations to a long overdue honor! - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Great News... Carl B.

Yes Bruce - but will it be $5,500.00?????

Panamared: To tell you the truth - I don't know if I can be of much help or not. I'll be glad to try. The real problem is that most people that have good used engines - really aren't equipped to crate them up for shipping, nor do they know how, nor who, to use to ship the engine to an address in Panama. The logistics of all that can be very time consuming, so it's just far easier for them to sell to a local buyer. Companies that specialize in remanufacturing engines - usually do have the facilities to crate an engine for shipment, and they usually know how to have it shipped. The next obsticle might be that many companies will not deal with an individual outside the Country. Have you checked with your local Nissan Dealer - to see what they could do? They might not have a source for remanufactured L24's any longer - but they might be willing to order one from a source you supply. A supplier in the States might be willing to ship an engine to a Nissan Dealership in Panama. Just some thoughts... Carl B.

Funny - I get $2130.00 + 240.00 core charge + $15.00 skid charge = $2385.00. Still not a bad price by todays standards for a remanufactured engine, with a 3 year, 100K mile warranty.. FWIW, Carl B.

Exactly what engine do you want? L24 or L28? Do you need a complete rebuilt engine, including the head and all accessories - or just a new long block, or short block? Or are you looking for a good used engine? Do you know how you are going to have it shipped, and what the shipping costs would be from AZ - vs -from Florida for example? Provide lots more specific information - and you might get a good response. good luck Carl B.

Hi Kats: An answer to your last question - first. I'm still trying to outline a simple answer to your first questions. The red car used in the 1970 US Sales Brochure is HLS30 0007. The Silver car is HLS30 0008 and the Greeen car is HLS30 0006. The red car used in the 1969 US Sales Brochure was most likely HLS30 00002 or 00003. Most likely the same car used in the Factory Picture and Press Release Documents you provided. It looks like they were all from the same photo session of the same car. The picture in the original 1969 US Sales Brochure - seems to have had the DATSUN and 240-Z emblems photo-edited into the original picture. You can see that the 240-Z emblem is on the wrong angle even. The car in the Service Slide show - could be 00003 - as you have it marked at possibly going to the Service Dept. On the other hand it might be 00002 because the suspension components seem to be scuffed in the pictures - and 00002 is listed as being Test Driven by Shatai Fun to try to figure this out... FWIW, Carl B.