Carl Beck

I think the Green 70 is pretty far beyond “refreshed”. Full body rotisserie restoration with only a few items not exactly period correct. Yes, it is a 20 year old restoration.. but it must have been done fairly well as it has held up well. Relatively low VIN and matching numbers. It would be a reasonable buy at $65K today. Especially considering that any decent presentable Series I will fetch $20K+ needing a full refresh or restoration. The refreshed, non-matching number White 72 just sold for $40K with its original engine included in the sale. Agree that when you get to $100K - you have to have something very special. But they aren't being sent to auctions yet.

Master Vac Part Number was the same 69 up to 05/71. #8987 would have an 08/70 DOM. Not certain when the Decal Changed, but perhaps it has been discussed in another thread here at some point. Carl

I've never had anything waterjet blasted... so I don't know if that is a good thing or not. A good powder coat application is hard to beat.

Hi Tirnipgreen: The Gasoline Vapor Recovery System (GVRS) was required for cars manufactured in 1969 and early 70 only in California. Because California was a very large Sports Car Market most of the cars sent to North America get it as standard equipment. By late 1970 it was added to the Federal EPA Emissions Standards/Regulations. Yes, you can eliminate the entire system fairly easily. Here is a summary of much discussion. This shows how to make the 180 degree turn on the one remaining Vent Line - although another person just had that vent tube re-positioned when the gas tank was out. Either way works.. http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm hope that helps, BTW - if you have the SU's I'd stick with them. If you go Webers - go triple side drafts. Carl B.

Yes - that one would have been far less - as it's not OEM and has different looking caps... but still somewhat the same function and over-all appearance

Yes - I thought the Ad was deceptive - that's why I mentioned it. OEM Original Equipment Manufacturer - simply means it was sourced from the OEM, but that doesn't mean the part is the date correct, original part. It is a "replacement part" - even Nissan will send you a newer style, or new and improved replacement for the original Part if the original is no longer available. If there actually is no problem caused by swapping the reservoirs - you are golden. If you have to re-bend the brake lines it is a PIA.. but doable.

Early on the L24’s suffered premature water pump failures with the 7 blade metal fans. Nissan redesigned the water pump castings to strengthen them. Still the metal fans were wearing out the water pump bushings, and in some cases coming loose from pump and damaging hoods and radiators. The 7 blade nylon fans reduce weight on the end of the water pump shaft increasing the useful life of the pump.(as well as protecting the radiator and hood) The first 8 blade nylon fans were incorporated to improve cooling, as one of many attempts to get the 1973 Emissions Carb’s working in a reliable manor. First an “air seal” was added to the radiator core support at the Dealerships, which sealed to the hood when closed.(inverted V shape metal with a rubber seal on top) It was intended to prevent the fan from drawing air over the top of the radiator. Early production 73 240Z’s were equipped with 15” - 8 blade nylon fans. Later the “air seals” on the radiator core support were put into production. The one’s put on at the Dealerships were bolted on - the “air seals” put on at the factory were spot welded on. Finally a larger diameter 15 3/8’s 8 blade nylon fan was installed as part of the V-3 Modification Kit. The part number for the 15 3/8’s inch fan 21060-N3310 for the V-3 Modificaiton Kit.

Just so there is no confusion... that is not the Original type installed at the factory on your 70 240Z. It can be made to work by rebinding/re-routing the brake lines - to hook them up to the correct ports. It cam be made to look right by swapping the reservoirs, but I do not know if any internal valving differences effect output line volumes or pressures.

Yes they can be clear coated and a few guys have done that. I chose not to go that route for fear of any clear coatings having problems with long term adhesion, clear coat cracking issues and or just physical damage. In which case it would have to be stripped off and I wasn’t sure that could be done without damage to the wheels. That decision was made however before I knew how many hours of constant polishing would be required to keep them “old school”… One friend solved the problem by having two complete sets of tires/wheels. For show he uses the original LeMans wheels - but after the show he puts them in "Space Bags” which are drawn down into a partial vacuum and stored. Replaced with aluminum racing wheels for actual road/track use and just storage of the car. Magnesium wheels polished to a high luster are really beautiful - they look like polished nickel. I have to admit that as much as I complain about the necessary time and effort - I do actually love seeing the results of that effort materialize before my eyes. So I guess the cost of beauty in this case is time and effort. I just think everyone should know going in - the cost of owning and maintaining 50 year old magnesium wheels is far more than their initial purchase price.

Yes, that is it. Years ago it was actually marketed/labeled through Gun Dealers etc as Gibbs Gun Oil.

As I recall it took three to four months for the patina to turn light gray, and another three to four to get dark Gray. That was before I started using the Gibbs Gun Oil, I believe that using it they will gray out faster. Keeping the centers uniform is a snap - just coat them with the Gibbs. It is keeping the outer lips shinny that is the PIA - they dull out if not polished every 4 months. Also you don't want to get any water on them as they water spot easily. Some guys used WD-40 on the lips after they were polished, to help avoid water spots. In my garage here in Florida - the aluminum Libre's will stay bright and shinny for a year, where the Le Mans will look dull within 3 to 4 months and utterly flat in 5 months.

It looked originally like the centers were painted - Yes/No? ... are you going to let them age to the dark gray, rather than paint them again? Looks like you bead blasted them...if so it will take a lot of very fine wet sanding, then a lot of polishing to get the rim lips gleaming again. Have Gibbs Gun Oil on hand? How about NuVite's NuShine IIC, NuShine IIA and NuShine IIS - absolutely the BEST for Mags's. 1/4lb jar is $25.00 and worth every penny.. C, A and S are progressively finer ... https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Default.asp

Logan Blackburn's Datsun 240Z with which he won the SCCA C-Production National Championship 1977, was the BRE #3 C-Production Z. Glad to hear you were able to find a set.

I don't believe that is correct. The earliest 280Z we have found is HLS30 200111 and it has a 12/74 DOM. The late 74 260Z's with VIN's Starting at RLS30 060001 and GRLS30 015001 shared the same body as the 280Z which started production in 12/74.

Might be a good solution for some people. I really don't like dealing with cores and core charges via shipping out of State. Especially if the vendor puts subjective restrictions on the condition of the cores. You can get rebuilt calipers through most Local Major Auto Parts Stores and they aren't picky about the cores you return. New rubber brake lines were available though local NAPA dealers etc. I would check RockAuto as well for price and availability. I agree that rebuilding calipers yourself is not a difficult task, but too often I've run into pitted housings or scared pistons - and wound up spending more money and time than it was worth it. Secondly I wouldn't put steel drums on a Series I 240Z today. If your original aluminum finned drums are good I'd leave them original.

Last year I couldn't find any new, nor remanufactured 6/7" boosters for my 72 240Z ... the reman's at that time said they had no cores to work with. There were remanufactures that would rebuild yours - if you sent it to them though one of the Major Auto Parts Stores. I did not like that option, to easy to get lost on all the handling by different people. Oh yes, I hasten to add when I did find the right size boosters on line - I ordered them - when they arrived they were the wrong size (1973 size) - so had to return them. So I sent mine to Booster Dewey in Oregon. His web sight doesn't mention rebuilding 240Z booster - but I called him - and one of the guys that works there owns a 240Z, so they did them as well. I sent him my original and had it back about 7 days later. It wasn't cheap - AIR $165.00.- but I was happy with the turn around time and quality of work. Might want to give them a call if you can't find someone closer to you..1-503-238-8882, 4335 SE 63rd Ave. Portland, OR 97206 http://boosterdeweyexchange.com While you are at it and everything is apart - replace it or rebuild it now. (nothing lasts forever). fWIW, Carl B.

Of course you don't want to run any of that through your new radiator, nor heater core... Carl B.

Hi Kats: I guess that melting the ice with salt is a trade-off vs. having more cars wrecked and people hurt because of ice on the road. Nonetheless, your 432 looks perfect, and the protective coating is a great idea. Thanks for the video. Carl B.

Hi Kats: Did they use salt to melt ice on the highways and streets in Japan? Road Salts seem to be the real cause of extensive rust here in the State's. Seems a lot of 240Z's survived in Washington State for example - where they did not use Road Salt - and instead allowed winter tires with ice spikes back in the 60's/70's. Carl B.

Neat - thanks for sharing that - - what is the publication Name/Date?

After our discussion on the this forum some time ago - we decided the easiest / best way to eliminate the Gasoline Vapor Recovery System (GVRS) - was to use Nissan’s non-GVRS system. In which case line from the Vapor Liquid Separator in the rear is also eliminated. http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm

A small amount of silicone adhesive will hold them in place.

Hi Lee: Great to have you here for this discussion. A further comment about our experience with gas pressure shocks several years ago. Front corner weights on the 240Z’s were 562 lbs and 604 lbs for 1972 as an example. (and varied a little 70/71). We measured the load it took to compress the Tokico Gas Pressure Shocks (non adjustable) at 80 psi. at a local machine shop. So it was easy to see that a 240Z with a spring constant of 83 lbs/in wound up sitting about 1” higher after installation. As for taking accurate and comparable measurements - a lot of the people involved are Engineers and pretty picky about accuracy. So lets hope your new offering are closer to the 3 Bar than the 5 Bar. At any rate better to know in advance of installation, so any necessary adjustments to spring rates or installed length can be made ahead of time.

also make sure the fuel line out and the return line in are not blocked.. that has happened to a more than a couple people.. with Red Coat or others restricting fuel flow. Lucky for us today - we can stick a camera almost anywhere in the tank. Tank looks fine for now - if you later decide you are going to do a full first class Refresh or even a Restoration it will easy enough to pull it back out later.

Well first its Running at the 1973 Baja 500 Off Road Races. Second it is a 620 which I think was one of the best styled 70’s Datsun Pickups. Third Mr. Conner (the driver there) was an independent advertising Promoter who brought SIMONIZ Corporation as a sponsor for the BRE Team and Datsun Competition efforts. (not to mention I was a New Car Sales Manager for a Datsun Dealer in 1973). The 68 Pick-up in the second picture was prepared by Brock Racing Enterprises (BRE) for Mary McGee & John Timanus. As part of the BRE 1968 Team effort at the Baja. BRE ran 3 Factory Supplied and Supported 510’s that year as well. One of which Mr. Brock owns today.