Carl Beck

Yes -if you plan to keep it for a long time - take it all apart, put in on a rotisserie and strip the undercarriage down. Metal patch any area that is rusted, reseal any seams that need it. Then prime, POR-15 it and paint body color. Actually, looking past the dirt and grime - it looks to be in fairly good condition. If your going to go to all that trouble - make sure you take everything off that isn't welded on. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gus: Just to make us all sick - - just use some soap and water on the outside of the fuel tank - then without telling us - polish and wax it... then post another picture ;-) Rare to see a perfect tank ! Just washed and cleaned - it will be shinny black again... and smooth as a baby's but... The float looks new - amazingly good condition.. I knew I should have just bought that car myself - heck, all you have to do is wash the undercarriage... and it will look like new. You won't find an undercarriage like that on a Z for less than $18K.. The valve train looks great.. head clean as a pin - once clean hot oil goes through it for a few hundred miles... it will look like new. Just glass bead blast the valve cover.. Keep the pictures coming... FWIW, Carl B.

What would you consider "valuable" to be? I'd say that $25K for a ZX 10th AE is fairly Valuable today. The car was sold in Texas by an authorized dealer - so at least that one's value should be documented in the Sales Tax records... Shiro's don't bring much - but they do sell quicker and bring more than most like condition Z31 300ZX's. The 50th AE's in excellent conditon will sell for over $12K today, where like condition 84-88 Z31's will bring $2,500.00. I guess value and/or worth have to be relative terms rather than absolute.. FWIW, Carl B.

But very special to many Z enthusiasts. Take a 1980 280ZX with 25K original miles - on the market for close to a year. First asking price was $8,500.00... six months later it was $6,500.00. I tried to talk several people into picking it up as a daily driver - where are you going to find an all but new car for $6,500.00?; let alone one that is so much fun to own and drive? Finally the car sold to the buyer that showed up with $3,500.00 cash in hand. This car was in Florida, in the hands of the Original 72 year old Owner. Always garaged etc... This was last year. Now take a like condition 10th Anniversary Edition - Several in the past year have sold within days or weeks of being offered at $20K+ "It's just a ZX with an appearance group type option and a plaque".... No it's at least $16,500.00 more dollars and a faster selling car - - - But I think the real question being ask was - would Buyer A pay more for the #1 of 3000, than he would for the #2345 of 3000. In that case the #1 would sell quicker, and for a couple thousand more - all other things being equal. But location/proximity - attitude of the sellers - etc would also have a part to play. Having the #1 car of any model carries some talking points if not bragging rights - it's just a little more special and will usually sell for a little more money. FWIW, Carl B.

bad/mixed up connections, bad ignition switch or relay ??? ... you should have 12 volt with ignition switch ON and 12 volt with ignition switch START, as the Blaster uses 12V as I recall... BTW - many people are using the GM ignition module - far far less expensive than the NISSAN OEM part... and available at any Auto Parts Store.. Do you have a picture of the set-up/wiring? Carl B.

Hi Mike: Neat - I haven't seen that one. Can you post a larger picture of the spec.'s page...?? Carl

It is possible that the server is slow at that point in time. It is possible that your file size is too large, and your connection speed to the Internet is too slow. How are you connected to the Internet? cable modem, DSL, dial in ??? What is the image size of the picture your trying to upload? What computer are you useing? Carl B.

I do not recall ever seeing an intake manifold like that.... from the pictures it looks as if the carb's feed directly into the intake ports.... I can't see that as being good for a car driven on the street.... Also did not see any heat shielding between the carb.'s and exhaust header... I think I'd be looking for a long runner Cannon Intake.... Have the valve cover glass bead blasted.... it will look like new.. FWIW, Carl B.

When you Post a reply - to my reply - using the "Post Reply' buttom directly below the discussion (not the quick reply box). If you scroll done the browser window, below where you type in your text - you will see a hyper-link in the area "Additional Options". In that area you will see a box titled "Attach Files" and in that box a hyperlink that says "Manage Attachments". hit that hyper link... and it will allow you to select any image on your hard drive to upload.. note that there are size limits Use a .jpg image with a width of less than 1024 pixels.. and you should be fine.. try it.. Carl B.

Do you know why the engine is stuck? Take the spark plugs out ... pour a few ounces of ATF in the cylinders and let it soak for a while... then put the car in gear and try rocking to back and fourth to see if the engine will break loose... Or you can put the car out of gear - and put a socket and long breaker bar on the crank pulley - and try rocking that back and forth... Could be "stuck' just from the rings sticking to the cylinder walls due to corrosion built up from just sitting... If you can't free the engine - you should be able to find a running L6 in AZ somewhere.. the easiest and least expensive swap will be for another L6 (L24, L26, L28)... BTW - if it's a 73 Model Year - it is a 240Z. 260Z will have a VIN of RLS30 and a 240Z would have VIN of HLS30... check to see what is stamped in the firewall, vs what is on the dash... FWIW, Carl B.

They symptoms say "bad module" is the first place to look ... they usually go out when they overheat - letting the car sit and cool allowed it to start one last time... using the original set up - ice down the module and see if the car will at least start.... I don't like swapping in used parts that I don't know for sure are good.... did you have the second distributor running in another car recently (yes/no?) Did you say that you checked and you have power to the coil with the ignition key set to run? and did you check power at the coil when the ignition key is switched to 'Start"?... maybe your ignition switch is the problem... Just thinking... off the top of my head... FWIW, Carl B.

We're missing something here... If the ignition timing is as it should be - and if you have fuel going to the cylinders.. and you have a spark at anything close to the right time - it should be at least backfiring, farting or something indicating that your assumptions are correct about the first few things... Even with very low compression - it should be doing something... Back to the carb's. - - - did you pull the floats, check the bowls are full of fuel... are the chokes working and are you using them.... Refresh my memory - did you preform the "finger test" Nissanman #22 suggested - to assure that you have compression on the compression stroke on #1? If you haven't done that - do it first and let us know.. I know everything seems to line up - but I'd feel better if I knew for sure that what is lining up is the compression stroke... not just the top of the #1 piston lining up with the "0" mark on the crank pulley... Is the engine cranking over fast enough?... your battery isn't low is it? I just feel that we're missing something here... FWIW, Carl

L28ET... turbo is the only way to go today... Paint and body look great - but as mentioned it certainly needs attention under the hood.. Only you know what type of suspension work it will need... or not... but if you upgrade the hp you'll want to upgrade the brakes for sure. good luck, Carl B.

Hi Gus / Z-Speed: We had a pretty good discussion related to Awakening A Sleeping Beauty some time ago. I'd suggest reading the entire thread as several others offered additional tips and advice. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619&highlight=Awakening For What It's Worth Carl B.

I wouldn't put it quite that way. Some people might think that means you can drive your Classic Car to work every other day, or twice a week etc. I believe that one has to take care with the words used, least they be misinterpreted, or the use of the vehicle is put in the wrong context. Your Classic Car, insured on a Classic Car Policy, may not be "driven to work" a couple times a week. Driving to/from work is considered "daily transportation" and daily transportation vehicles must be covered by regular line insurance coverage. No can your Classic Car be used to get to/from work when your regular transportation vehicle is out of service, in for repairs etc. If on the other hand, you are "taking" your Classic Car to your workplace - so that associates and co-workers can see it, or just to show it off for the day - - - that intent, with that specific use - is allowed on Classic Car Policies. I would respectfully disagree that is reasonable for Dad to borrow a Classic Car car for a week or so. Classic Cars are not "loaners", to be used in place of daily transportation, by anyone. On the other hand, if Dad took the car for a "pleasure drive"... kept it at his home for a few days to show it to friends etc.... that would be fine. You really want to avoid giving any underwriter, any impression that the Classic Car is ever being used for any purpose other than "pleasure". Speciality Lines of Automotive Insurance, are chartered by the States to fill gaps in coverage that may exist within the Full Line Automotive Insurance industry. They are not allowed to compete for the same business, which means the intended use of the car must be very narrowly defined...usually something like "for pleasure use only"... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Doug: Yes - that's me - I guess I'll have to be more careful of how I dress when going to pick up these old Z's. Hi Ron: Yes - I pointed everyone here toward the car after I offered it to Gus... he wasn't ready at that time... and lucky for him it was still there this month. He made the seller a cash offer over the phone and she accepted it... Good thing for him he wasn't dealing with her in person... she worked for the magazine "Makes and Models" if you get the picture ;-) I offered to meet him at the car to help load things up - thinking the seller would be there - but she had her Father meet us..... bummer.... It was good to see Gus again, but gee... :-) In the end, Gus just picked up the best candidate 240-Z for restoration that I have seen in the past five years. Original Owner, all stock and original 32K miles..... I'm really happy for Gus and we'll have to keep bugging him for status reports... I'll let him tell everyone the details about the car.... FWIW, Carl

While the topic has been covered in the past - it would be good to alert new members that may have missed those discussions - as to just how important it is to have your Classic Z Car insured by a speciality insurance company, on an Agreed Value policy. So if we are sending them to the archives to search for Collector Car Insurance - we should also send them to the archives to find the threads that people involved in accidents with their Z's - who didn't have Collector Car Insurance, have gone though in the aftermath. It is never pretty... when a claims adjustor tells a Classic Z Car owner that his/her Datsun is worth $1,200.00, when they have over $8K or over $25K in the car... If your Z isn't a daily driver - it is very important to have it properly insured on a Collector Car Insurance policy - but you also have to have a clean driving record etc. By the way - I use Hagerty also. They know Classic Z Cars... and appreciate them for the Classic's that they are. You can get an on-line quote at: http://www.hagerty.com FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Doug: Yes, I certainly do remember it. Matter of fact, ToxIc's original post brought the picture of that night to my mind. We had the space and the skills that night - just not the proper tools. On the other hand we had plenty of beer ;-) I'm not sure if that made the process more or less challenging but it was more fun. In spite of the fact that ToxIic stated right up front, that he did not have the tools, space and skills to do a restoration. Many people here told him to do it anyway. My original objection to, and disagreement with E's Post was that E told this newbe not to expect to be seen in the same light as those of us that do our own restorations/refreshes etc. E is certainly entited to his own light - but that is most certainly not the light I see the Z Car Community in. Contrary to what E believes (don't tell him how poor I am) - I have never written a check for, nor bought in any other way, a restored nor refreshed Z - Of the 12 or so cars I've refreshed/restored, with the exception of paint/body work I do all my own work. I did send an historic racing engine out to professionals, I had to have professionals recreate a custom Fuel Cell etc. I did my own work on cars when I was young because I couldn't afford to pay someone else. So I developed the skills and picked up the tools along the way. Later in my life I did the work myself because I enjoyed it, and yes I have the tools in a place large enough to work today. Nonetheless, like you and many others here, I see Purists or Modifiers, Restorers or Buyers, Racers or Weekend Warriors all in the same light - Classic Z Car Enthusiasts. After all the discussion here - my best advice to ToxIic and others like him would be to go buy the best 240-Z they can afford. Pay the money right up front for a really good car. Take out a signature loan if necessary and pay it off over time - - in the end you'll be a lot of money ahead, and in the mean time you'll have a good car to drive and enjoy. We have all seen too many people start do-it-yourself projects, spend a lot of money on all the wrong things, then let the project sit unfinished for years and years - only to dump it in the end. If you don't have the tools, skills and space; and little hope of gaining them in time to do the project - don't kid yourself. Of the three -"skills"- are the first one that needs to be developed. Buy a really good car to start with - then learn to do the minor things first, and increase the scope or difficulty level of follow on projects on that car. FWIW, Carl B.

Sorry E - but I have to protest, or disagree, or make the counter points... I believe that is a grossly unfair misrepresentation, where you infer that serious Classic Car Collectors, Serious Z Car Enthusiasts are "jet setters" just because they buy the cars they love rather than build them themselves. I really disagree with the perspective that if you didn't do it yourself, it somehow has less meaning, worth or value; than the meaning, worth, or value put into finding and buying the Classic Car of your dreams. No question that there is indeed a specific group of people that enjoy buying expensive toys for themselves. Their motives may be to impress their friends, or simply to wizz off the poor people that envy them. Yes that group exists - but so far they aren't buying Datsun 240-Z's!! No question that there is another specific group of people - that through their hard work have put themselves in a position to be able to finally buy the cars of their youthful dreams - but do we really want to look down our noses at them - for writing a rather large check for a near perfect 240-Z? They are the very people that provide the rational, or belief that most of us hold on to - while we are writing a seemingly endless number of smaller checks, with bleeding knuckles and shaking hands. Would any of us put $25K+ into "refreshing" a 240-Z without any hope that if we had to sell it at some point in the future - there might be a buyer that could write a check for at least $18K for that #3 condition 240-Z???? You seem to hold the impression that the serious Collector, or Enthusiast is a gadfly, just writing checks along the way to his destination. What you fail to comprehend is that buying the 240Z they wanted, is really a significant milestone on their journey. Make no mistake, they are enjoying their journey just as much as any of us. If anything, I'm really thankful that "those people" are there, that they want to join us in our affection for for our Z's. The bottom line is - NO you don't have to do it yourself to fully appreciate fine craftsmanship, love a classic car, nor be a Z Car Enthusiast. It is perfectly acceptable at least to me - to send a car out for restoration or write a big check for one that's already done. If owning a "new" 240-Z enhances your journey - .... Me and Mr. K will be there smiling and waving as you pass by.... after all none of us built the car to begin with... and there is no need for us to do it ourselves today. FWIW, Carl B.

Possible? Sure - it takes about 350 HP to push the 240-Z up to 150mph... Easy with a strong V8... not likely with an N/A in-line 6 although not impossible... Didn't TonyD get close to that.. and it's been done on the salt flats... FWIW, Carl

Pretty much what you would expect to find in the New York Times comrade. On the other hand if you follow the Wall Street Journal, you see that President Sarkozy is trying to regain some of the Billions lost in trade to the US. They need the money... Believe it or not, even my wife started buying French Wine again. Sadly in neither case do we get any real Journalistic Reporting of factual information that would be of any use to us. Sex sells and if it bleeds it leads.... We've all become mushrooms.. keep in the dark and feed mindless BS. just my perspective... Carl B.

Personally, I think he is doing what is best for France. Seems to be a fairly level headed guy. I admire his taste in women. He made a pretty good impression on the American Press - even without saying anything offensive or derogatory about America. (they would rather have a lot of spicy conflict to repeat). Its a pleasant change. For far too long the Professional Politicians have used Machiavellian tactics to divide people, gain and control power. American bashing in most of Europe has been a popular tactic used to divert attention from the real social and economic problems facing the ECU for many many years now. It seems that no matter how many times Socialism is tried and fails - it still holds appeal to people that belive they can get something for nothing, when most everything is being siphoned off by the powerful few. Just my personal view, but it is past time Americans and Frenchmen realized that they are simply spectators in the Liberal vs Conservative Game. Paying Spectators - that are being constantly milked to feed the greed for Power that is endless with Professional Politicians. Spectators that don't get paid to pay the game, don't really benefit from it in any way, have lost control of the rules... and are in the process of losing more than their hard earned money. If you seriously believe that you are a Democrat, a Republican, a Centrist, Right-Wing, Left-Wing or Green - - then you are a fool. You are just a spectator of the party, sucking in all the propaganda the Cheerleaders use to whip you into a thoughtless frenzy. President Washington warned us all - in his Fairwell Address - so that we wouldn't be suckered into this BS .... but we've become so stupid... here we are. Hyphenated Americans being played one against the other, Red States vs Blue States.... France has it even worse... divided and subdivided.. Only the Powerful win, while Americans and Frenchmen lose. Funny how the citizens of two Countries joined at the hip in revolution, can so easily be mislead to such low opinions of one another. Sad actually. FWIW, Carl B.

There is a set of Stage I Euro Springs on E-bay... The seller has them listed as fitting 240/260/280Z.... but they fit only cars made after 08/73... Part Numbers 54010-N3502 and 55020-N3502 FWIW, Carl B.

Usually the suction chambers are stuck - because gasoline was left in the carb's and it turns to varnish, which in turn glues the bottom of the suction chamber down. Buy a gallon can of carb cleaner - and drop them in for a few minutes... up to an hour. Things will loosen up.... you may have to work them a little, but they will free up. Chances are they are better than you would think... FWIW, Carl B.

The "E" is for Electronic Fuel Injection. All L28's in the 280Z's and 280ZX's came from the factory with Electronic Fuel Injection. So your L28 is actually an L28E. FWIW, Carl B.