Carl Beck

Speaking of which - I'll be gone this Monday through Wednesday...headed up North to accompany #17 back to the body shop here in Florida. ;-) You going to meet us at ZRush's again? later, Carl

The Subject of this thread started with #305. I said #305 would not get a bid starting at $10K. I also said it's market value in California, in the condition it is show in would be $2,500.00 to $3,500.00. So I am not sure that you are disagreeing with me, or changing the subject to a second car...?? There is a significant difference between VIN 51 and VIN 305 in terms of how many other people will own lower VIN's, in the Low VIN Club. Excluding for now #6, 7 and 8.... the competition cars not sold to the public. If you own #305 there are at least 80 other people with lower VIN's. If you own #51 there are only 17 other people with lower VIN's that have been located so far. If you want to be in the second most exclusive group of 69 Z owners, you have to be in the "Teen Z Club" - find #00018 and you will be one of four in that group. Of course if you want to be in the most exclusive group of 69 Z owners you have to own #6, #7 or #8..... and you will be one of the three "Single Digit Z" owners - in which case you have the right to hold a single digit to everyone else in the club... The single digit held up denotes both the fact that you have a VIN with a single significant digit - or "1" denoting the $100,000.00+ you have to pay to get it. There are really two components related to value in your question or statement. The first component is the value of a completely restored Series I 240-Z. The second is the additional value of the VIN itself. In the past twelve months, I have arranged the sale of six or seven Concours Quality Restorations done on Series I 240-Z's. They all sold for between $25K and $35K. Two of them were 1969 Production Year cars with VIN's between 100 and 200. With these cars, buyers and sellers... I'm not sure it's possible to break out the value of the VIN - but I am sure it was far easier to find buyers quickly for the 69 production cars. I'm also sure that over time, the few 69 production cars that have been restored will command on average higher prices than the rest of the Series I cars. Given the fact that only 38 Vintage Z's were completed; and the Vintage Z's additional significant place in the History of the Z Car, I believe that they will be the real price leaders in the Collector Z Car Community. At present 143 1969 production year 240-Z's have been found.... and there is no way of telling how many of them have been or will be fully restored, but chances are good that it will be far more than 38 over time. If the Collector Car market stays as strong as it is now - I believe we could see the Vintage Z's or perhaps some Concours Quality Series I Z's selling for $50K within the next five to seven years. just my take on the market.. Carl B.

One Vote for the "Greatest Understatement" so far in this thread. America no longer has Journalists reporting the news, nor Editors demanding factual and complete accounts be presented to the public. We have Entertainers creating stories taken from daily life, for multiple channels of cable Info-tain-ment. Now more and more delivered by Movie Star Quality Female anchors. You never get the whole story - and what you do get is mostly misleading or simply wrong. FWIW, Carl B.

"Much better looking"!!... now wait a minute, lets not get carried away... vbg - Just too funny, Carl B.

Try driving it with less than a full tank - and leave the gas cap off. See what happens - Carl B.

And the by translation by Altavista is: "Hello Tilman, 240er are RSR in D, 260er can you already rather get. Actually Z's are offered quite rarely and are expensive in good condition, also because there are hardly parts here. The partial import from the USA is not the cheapest! The hardest hammer the "Rallyeamateur" drives here to Klaus Fritzinger (see under Google after), is beautiful also in Holland of the Rallyenachbau of z-POINT and also the cars of Germanz and germanzfan is super. If Du's means serious, then schau you for a good basis in the USA over, possibly here still in Switzerland. Much fun and success with the search"

Call John Williams in Atlanta (I think it's actually Duluth - up near the track) 1-770-806-2926 John has been working on 240-Z's for longer than I can remember - and he races them as well. Super driver by the way.. Tell him I said to say hello... FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

In terms of Clock Position - where do you think the #1 Spark Plug should be? I'm not sure I understand what the "fat side pointing to the right" means. Looking down the hole the distributor goes into - there is an offset with one side lower than the other. Which side is your "low side" on? (right is toward the firewall and Left is toward the radiator). Is the line through the off-set, that divides the high side from the low side - running from 1 O'clock to 7 O'clock - for example - or 11 O'clock to 5 O'clock for example or what? Carl B.

I think everyone else will too! Nonetheless it is a great place for Free Advertising - especially if one is smart enough to include a phone number to call. The overall condition of that car with that VIN in California.... $2,500.00 to $3,500.00 at the outside. FWIW, Carl B.

That is correct - there was a 1 HP difference in the ratings. If by "smog pump" you mean the Air Pump for the fresh air injection system - that was standard equipment on all US Spec. 240Z's right from the begining. While the E31 had a slightly higher compression ratio - the E88 had improved breathing due to redesigned intake and exhaust runners. So the net effect was an all but equal offset in stock configurations. If there were any power robbing additions - it would have been the increased curb weight for 72 and again for 73. As both engines were still rated at 150HP. The flat tops only robbed power when the fuel system vapor locked, or the heat sink caused the float bowls to boil. In effect the flat tops had a bad effect on over-all drive-ability, but no effect on the rated HP. Saying that all 240-Z's in the U.S have 151 or 150 is accurate to within six tenths of one percent - I don't thing anyone worries too much about 1 HP out of 150... By the way - the Bob Sharp and BRE teams switched to the E88 when it came out - because it had better flow (at least that is what they told me at the time). It's easy to adjust the compression by milling the head, or decking the block. It's much harder to improve the flow of a head once it's cast with its intake and exhaust runners defined. The E88's also corrected the tendency of the E31's to crack aound the exhaust valves. FWIW, Carl B.

In a few years that seller will be so unhappy that he sold his Z.... if it sells at his reserve...

Hi Stephen: Thanks - now we need someone to check a 76 and 77... see if there is any difference there. Does your data tag list the original engine serial number or just say L28? FWIW, Carl B.

What's wrong with the 280Z? If you use the baseline of the 240-Z as your personal benchmark of how to get things RIGHT.. then want is WRONG with the 280Z would be: 1. design & styling changes, not to refine or improve the base car - but design changes mandated by government bureaucrats, to pacify tree huggers and safety nuts, neither of which had a clue as to what they were talking about when making their demands for change. a) over size and worthless bumpers a heavier subframe to carry "a)" which added more weight c) stop gap emission control solutions - forced on the manufacturers before quality R & D could be done, and good engineering implemented. This was simply a mess for the consumer. 2. design changes, not to refine or improve the base car - but design changes sought by the customers, that wanted more luxury, a quite car with better heat and sound insulation for better A/C. All of which took some of the original "light" personality away... If you happen to be one of the customers mentioned in #2 above - then NOTHING is wrong other than the junk the Government mandated. 3. future resale value, the 280-Z's will always be considered second choice by the collectors and will not hold the higher values of the 240-Z's over time. 4. Complexity of repair and maintenance over the long haul. As time passes it will be ever more difficult to deal with the computer and sensor problems, the corrosion on critical electrical connections, and find new Fuel Injectors... I'm sure there are others I've overlooked. As everyone has said, there is really nothing wrong with the 280Z's... really, as long as you don't hold them up against a like condition 240-Z. The 280Z is really a very nice car... But it's kind of like being Nicole Kidman's sister....and never quite being Nicole .. but there really isn't anything wrong with Nicole's sister.... FWIW, Carl B.

Taking a quick look though an extensive collection of Engine Data Tags (hundreds of them in the collection from Mr. Lowell Wade) The L24 was rated at 151/150 The L26 was rated at 162 HP The L28E in the 280Z Federal Models was rated at 170HP The L28E in the 280ZX was rated at 132HP The L28ET in the 280ZX Turbo was rated at 180HP (as I recall - I don't have an engine data plate for the 280ZX Turbo's that shows the factory rated HP) If you have an engine data plate for an L28 in a 280Z - that shows something other than 170HP, it most likely is from the "California" model. In which case you should have a "CAT HOT" warning light in the center console. If you have a picture of that data plate, I'd like to see it. The bottom line is - that until the 82 280ZX Turbo with the 5spd. came out - none of the North American 260Z's, 280Z's nor 280ZX's were as fast in the 1/4 mile, nor would any of them beat the 240-Z on a road course. FWIW, Carl B.

Hello Tilman: Welcome to the forum... If you are used to Fuel Injection and Turbo's - then just get an L28ET from the 280ZX Turbo - and drop it in your 240-Z. Then you'd have that kick in the back, along with the Classic lines. FWIW, Carl B.

Oh good.. I was a bit worried that you would not have enough space between the axle and the backing plate - to get the studs out/in - without having to remove the axle. (been a long time since I had to do that job). I guess I was thinking of the longer racing studs.. Carl B.

All of the above - Kroil is the way to go. If you do any work at all on these old Z's a couple of can's of Aero-Kroil are simply indispensable. I've been working on cars for 50 years now, and I've never found anything that comes close to being as effective as Kroil. It's a pain in the neck to have to order it on-line, wait for it to be delivered - and it is not cheap; but well worth the time and effort. Put Kano Labs in google... If you can't get an air or electric impact wrench on it - then resort to the original impact source. Everyone should have a medium size brass hammer in their tool box. So - Kroil and let it soak, then box end wrench on the nuts, then a swift solid blow to the other end of the wrench with the brass hammer... They break right loose. Dynamic torque is soooo much more effective and far easier on your hands.... FWIW, Carl B.

If by "this head" you mean the O.S. Giken head.... Then the main difference is the O.S. Giken head is designed for, and bolts onto, the L series engine, whereas the head from the S20 will not. FWIW, Carl B.

I guess we are all waiting on pictures.... You didn't mention price, nor model year... Stripped rear wheel studs are NOT common, nor are they easy to change. The door not opening from the outside is somewhat common, most likely a broken leg on the door handle... you can swap the left and right side door handles or get another one... good luck, Carl B.

Neat Video... but... I'd rather have a spherical rotary valve head for the L24 today. Anyone have $15,000.00? <a href=http://www.coatesengine.com/ TARGET=NEW>It's A Ball</a> FWIW, Carl

Hi Victor: Way to go - nice pictures of a great car.. You've got to be happy about that. Nissan Sport Mag. should make a deal with several of the Japanese Magazine Publishers that would allow Nissan Sport Mag. to translate and republish several great articles published in Japan. Nissan Motors should encourage that arrangement and indeed help sponsor it. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dave: The 1970 Nissan Stockholders Report lists about 96 countries in which Nissan Motors Ltd. had distributors. Some distributors were also Dealers themselves it seems. I'm not sure all the Distributors listed were actually DATSUN distributors, but that list may include Nissan Distributors who handled Nissan Diesels and Nissan Fork Lifts etc. - in countries around the world. For Australia: Nissan Motor Company (Australia) Pty. Ltd. Melbourne, Victoria Datsun (Distribution) Pty. Ltd. - same street address as above Datsun (Distribution) S.A. Division Kenwick, S.A. Australia Capital 1 Motors Limited - Auburn, N.S.W. Australia Duncan Motor Co. Pty. Ltd. Perth, W.A. Australia Ira Berk (old) Pty. Ltd. Queensland, Australia Holyman Motors Pty. Ltd. Tasmania, Australia Cavenagh Car Sales Pty. Ltd. Northern Territory, Australia = = = = = = = = = = = = Ira Berk started as a Dealer in 1962 and celebrated his 20th Anniversary as a Datsun Dealer in 1982. Anyone know if he or his dealership is still around? Of course Nissan had a couple of Importers and a couple of Distributors in 1958, prior to forming NISSAN MOTORS IN USA in 1960. The reason that Mr. K. recommended Nissan take over its own sales and distribution in the US was that the distributors were not doing a good job of marketing and sales. Mitsubishi was the "Importer" with Chester G. Lubby, a Chevrolet Dealer in Forest Hills, New York, as the sole distributor for 22 Eastern States, April 29, 1958. Marubeni was the "Importer" with Woolverton Motors of North Hollywood, California as the Distributor in May of 1958 for the Western and Southwestern States. Both Distributors were already large organizations dealing in domestic and some foreign makes. They established subsidiaries, Luby Datsun Distributors and Western Datsun Distributors to handle their new line. Ray Lemke of San Diego was the first Datsun Dealer with sales starting in Oct. of 58, past the original Distributor/Dealers. In 1965 Lemke Datsun became the first Dealer to sell 100 cars in one month. Datsun USA had: 122 Dealers in 1961 144 Dealers in 1962 225 Dealers in 1963 ??? Dealers in 1964 432 Dealers in 1965 (as of Nov. 65) ??? Dealers in 1966 544 Dealers in 1967 (as of April 67) ??? Dealers in 1968 640 Dealers in 1969 (as of Jan. 69) 899 Dealers in 1970 (as of Jan. 70) 922 Dealers in 1971 (as of Jan. 71) 937 Dealers in 1972 (as of Jan. 72) The above does not include Dealers in the State of Hawaii which reported still to Japan. Many, if not most, of the original Dealers in 61/62 were used car lots or mechanical repair shops. Lemke was typical of the people that grew from mechanic, to millionaire with Datsun in the USA FWIW, Carl B.

Another thing to keep in mind is that mold spores are carried by/on/with dirt/dust. So always do a good job of vacuuming the carpet and clean every other surface thoroughly prior to long term storage. Once you get mold growing on leather or vinyl - just cleaning it off isn't enough. You have to kill the mold spores that get deeper into the material - - - so you need a germ killer like Lysol. Always test a small area before you use any product that kills germs - some contain bleach and you don't want to bleach any of the color out of anything... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dave: Great idea. The history of Datsun/Nissan is an area of interest for me and several of my friends. I would like to know the answers to a lot of the questions you pose. So if anyone can find and publish some of the associated history such as you have done - it would be great. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Miles: Thanks - very interesting. Of course some information always leads to more questions. Most of the New Car Dealers here in the States derive a great deal of their income from their used car sales. They either retail the cars they take in on trade, or wholesale them out to other used car dealers. What do the New Car Dealers do with the cars taken on trade in Japan? You mentioned auto registration takes some time - but I understand that it also involves several different forms and amounts of taxation. To tie all this back to the 240-Z and 432Z: Since the early 50's Japan has had a tax on private vehicles, based on the engine displacement. Do you know, or can you find out, how much that tax was in 1967 - 70. It seems to have had a great impact on cars sold there with over 1499cc engines. As I understand it, it is an annual tax not just a one time penalty like our Gas Guzzler Tax on new vehicles. regards, Carl B.