Carl Beck

Red Line's Water Wetter is a surfactant with the necessary anti-corrosives and water pump lubricants found in permanent Summer Coolants/Anti-Freeze. A surfactant breaks down the surface tension of a liquid and thus allows the molecules of the water to come into closer contact with the metal surfaces over which it is flowing. In turn this allows the water to pick up more heat from the engine, and it allows the water to pass off more heat when in the radiator. Most major automotive parts stores carry it today.. FWIW, Carl B.

Missed the "REBUILT" title perhaps??? Carl B.

I run Mobile 1 10-40 because it will reduce engine operating temperatures 10 to 15 degrees here in Florida. I also run Red Line Water Wetter and water in the radiator - because it will reduce engine operating temperatures 10 to 15 degrees here in Florida. These two things make the difference in stop and go traffic between seeing the temperature gauge approaching HOT or staying in the middle (normal) in the summer months. FWIW, Carl B.

It of course depends on how far it was driven with low to no gear lub - and/or how hot it got. But with only 80K miles on the car - it should be fine if you refill it. Take the back cover off - so you can put it in a vise. Take a butane torch and heat the area round the fill and drain plugs - both inside and outside surfaces - then put a "Pipe" or "Monkey" wrench on the external plug (can't recall if the fill plug or drain plug sticks out).... It's a standard Pipe fitting and a pipe wrench will grip it firmer as you apply torque. Put a light coating of anti-seize on the threads before you reinstall the plugs... FWIW, Carl B.

Thinking about it.... Back in 1962 I had an Oldsmobile StarFire Convertible. The recommended oil change interval was 3,000 miles or 3 months. That beauty got about 8 mpg around town and it would deliver about 13 to 14 mpg on the highway. At 8 mpg - that engine would pump through about 375 gallons of leaded gasoline and it's associated air in that 3000 mile distance. At 14 mpg that's about 214 gallons of gasoline.. Of course we change oil not so much because it wore out - but because it becomes contaminated while circulating within the engine. Unburnt fuel, carbon deposits from combustion and even the lead from the fuel all contaminated the oil and reduced its ability to lubricate the moving parts of the engine. Today - as the article states - automotive lubricating oils are far superior to the one's used 45 years ago. Plus that HHR should be getting at least 18 mph in town and 25 or 26 on the highway. At 18 mpg the engine in the HHR will pump about 167 gallons of gasoline and its associated air through that engine. That's about 55% less for in town driving... and 120 gallons of gasoline for the same highway use or 44% less at highway speeds.. Even without considering the vast improvements in lubricating oil technology over the past 45 years, as well as the elimination of Lead Contamination from the fuels - it makes perfect sense to me that 6,000 or even 7,500 mile oil change intervals are perfectly well suited to todays cars.. Nonetheless, I'll maintain the 3000 mile change interval for my 240-Z's.... as they are at least 35 year old cars now.. FWIW, Carl B.

Just FYI - DETROIT - Most major automakers agree: The adage that you should change your car‚s oil every 3,000 miles is outdated, & even 5,000 miles may be too often. FoMoCo became the latest manufacturer to extend its oil life guidelines, making public that it is raising the recommended oil change interval from 5,000 miles to 7,500 on its newly redesigned '07 models & all subsequent redesigned or new models. The company, like many other manufacturers, said Tuesday that higher oil quality standards & new engine designs were responsible for the change, which affects vehicles driven under normal conditions. „The oils have advanced a lot since the days when 3,000 miles were the typical oil drains,‰ said Dennis Bachelder, senior engineer for the American Petroleum Institute, an industry organization that sets quality standards. „They‚re certainly more robust than the oils of 10, 15 years ago.‰ These days, motor oils start w/a higher-quality base oil than in the past, & they have more antioxidants that make lubricating properties last longer & other additives that keep deposits from forming on engines, Bachelder said. Pete Misangyi, Ford‚s supervisor of fuel lubricants, said the company conducted numerous fleet & laboratory tests w/newer oils before it raised the interval. „That allows more comfort, if you will, in extending the intervals using the new oils,‰ he said. Some manufacturers, such as Honda & GM, have stopped making recommendations on all or most of their models, instead relying on sensors that measure oil temperature extremes & engine revolutions over time to calculate oil life & tell drivers when to get the lubricant changed. Oil can lose its lubricating properties if it runs at too low or too high of a temperature. Peter Lord, executive director of GM‚s service operations, said oil can last 12,000 miles or even more for many drivers who don‚t run their vehicles in extreme heat or cold or tow heavy loads. „It really does depend on the individual customer & how they‚ve used the vehicle,‰ he said. Ford said it has found that its customers like a set mileage for service rather than wait for a sensor to tell them what to do. For those who don‚t believe the sensors, Lord says GM has reams of data showing that they‚re reliable, & they notify drivers far in advance of when a change is necessary. „We are absolutely confident of the technology. We back it w/a 100,000 mile powertrain warranty now, so there‚s no doubt in our mind that this technology works,‰ he said. The longer oil life can save customers money. Ford estimates that drivers would save $600 over a 5-year period by going from 5,000 miles to 7,500 between oil changes. „From an environmental perspective we can save an enormous amount of oil,‰ Lord said. „There‚s no point in wasting precious oil changing it prematurely. And we don‚t have to dispose of so much waste oil, either.‰ When to change oil is not w/out controversy, tho. Toyota reduced its change interval from 7,500 miles to 5,000 in '04 in part because it found that more drivers ran their vehicles under severe stop-&-start & short trip conditions that cause oil to deteriorate more quickly, said company spokesman Bill Kwong. Toyota also had an oil sludge buildup problem on less than 1% of its '97-'02 model year vehicles, Kwong said. Changing the oil more frequently prevents the sludge problem, which he said was caused by owners going more than 7,500 miles before changing oil. The company lengthened warranty coverage on the affected engines to handle the problem, even before some owners filed a class action lawsuit, Kwong said. Nissan recommends changing oil in its Nissan & Infiniti vehicles every 7,500 miles or 6 months ˜ unless the vehicle is used mainly for towing, trips of 5 miles or less in normal temperatures, 10 miles or less in freezing temperatures, stop-&-go driving in hot weather or low-speed driving for long distances, in which the oil should be changed every 3,750 miles or 3 months, spokeswoman Katherine Zachary said. And for some engineers & mechanics, 5,000 miles is too long to wait. Drivers must take the weather & how much freeway driving they do into account before deciding when to change their oil, said Danny Beiler, part owner of an auto repair garage in Sarasota (FL). Freeway driving is less harmful to oil than driving in the city, but in Sarasota, the heat places nearly all cars under severe driving conditions that warrant more frequent changes, Beiler said. „I have a problem w/telling people 7,000 because you know they‚re going to go over that. I‚d rather err on the side of being cautious & tell them to do it early.‰ Dewey Szemenyei, marketing manager for passenger car motor oil additives for Afton Chemical Corp., said he still changes the oil in his '98 Toyota Sienna minivan every 3,000 miles. „I really feel it‚s great insurance,‰ said Szemenyei, whose company makes additives that go into motor oils & who chairs an SAE committee on engine lubrication. „There‚s not what I consider a right answer. However, if you go w/the owner‚s manual recommendation you should in general not have any problems,‰ he said.

62 years, 6 days, 11 hours and 5 minutes.... as of 10:55 EDT Carl B.

Hi Sailor: Just so I'm sure we are talking about the same condition definitions for vehicles... I've copied/pasted the Kruse Value Guide Definitions below. A nice #2 condition 240-Z as outlined by Kruse - would sell today for $25K or more. Granted one might run across a distressed seller - that needed fast cash - and pick up a true #2 condition car for $15k to $18K... but that's a matter of luck and you don't see it happening too much now. I do agree - I'd sure be a buyer for any #2 condition 240-Z at $15K IMHO - the best bargain in a new sports car now is the Pontiac Soltice GP-X - turbo with 260HP in a 2800lb roadster - for $28K... hard to beat. However every year that new car will depreciate - while that old Z will be appreciating and that is the MAJOR difference... besides the Z is still far more attractive and offers far more utility - not to mention just plain fun to drive... FWIW, Carl B. Keep in mind these are condition definitions for CLASSIC CARS! .. not just 240-Z's in their current use.. #1 EXCELLENT - Restored to current maximum professional standards of quality in every area, or perfect original with components operating and appearing as new. A 95+ point show car that is not driven. In national show judging a car in #1 condition is likely to win top honors in it's class. In a sense it has ceased to be an automobile and has become an object of art. It is transported to shows in an enclosed trailer, and, when not being shown it is stored in a climate controlled facility. It is not driven. There are very few #1 cars. #2 FINE: - Well-restored, or a combination of superior restoration and excellent original. Also an extremely well maintained original showing very minimal wear. Except for the very closest of inspection a #2 vehicle may appear as a #1. The #2 vehicle will take the top award in many judged shows, except when squared off against a #1 example in its own class. It may also be driven 800 - 1,000 miles each year to shows, on tours, and simply for pleasure. #3 - Very Good: Completely operable original or "older restoration" showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus combinations of well-done restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable NOS parts.

Hi Jerry: Agreed - documentation on the miles, via State Vehicle Inspections, Service Invoices over time etc. would be an important part of the deal. This is supposed to be the original owner as well - so original bill of sale, window sticker, Service/Warranty Card etc would also be expected to be on hand. My advice to the seller - via the friend of the friend.. was to NOT ATTEMPT, NOR ALLOW ANYONE ELSE TO ATTEMPT to start the car. That should only be done by the future owner. Have some yahoo crank that car over and it could do very serious and expensive and time consuming damage at this point. I believe that any serious buyers - would want to wake this sleeping beauty up in a very methodical and careful manor. Done right, given the States in which the car had been stored - it would be good as new again. Done wrong - and you'd have a prolonged mess on your hands... Fly out there and inspect the car (round trip in a day is easy from your location) - if it checks out completely - Send a truck to pick it up - Air the tires up - push it on a trailer... and bring it home.... What the hell - there is no real difference between $12K and $13K in todays dollars - that's like $1,200.00 or $1,300.00 when the car was new!! If there is anything that turns out to be NOT as represented.. offer the seller a reasonably reduced amount of CASH on the spot... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Sailor Bob (everyone): I'd say that someone believed that the car "could be put in pristine condition." Put in #2 Condition - an all original 72 240-Z, with documented 37K miles - will sell in the $25K range. I know of at least three that have traded hands within this past year at these levels. My advice to a local person, who knew the person that was handling the sale - was at most the car was worth $12K as it sat (and if no attempt to get the car running was made). Then he could plan to spend a year and another 4K or $5K to put the car in the shape it should be. That assumed that the paint was still in good condition and could be simply cleaned up and polished, the undercarriage was fine etc. So for $16K or $17K and a lot of work - he'd have a very nice, very original and very low mileage 72. I think the seller has been offered top dollar for the car as it currently sits... Interesting interview in the Hagerty's Volume 2, Number 1 "Block Party" Page 19. Speaking about the future of the Collector Hobby - Donald Osborne says: ,,,,,, "Another trend is the newfound interest in "original" cars. Unrestored cars have become more desired as there's no going back once they have been altered. Once, if a collector had a very original car, it was viewed merely as the starting point for a full restoration. Now that same owner is challenged not to touch it at all. There is a growing gap between historic cars that have undergone full restorations - - or cars that are well-preserved and documented original condition - - and more common cars with needs. This is true at all levels of collecting from common English sports cars to major classics, but it is especially seen at the top end." and: "Now that they are getting rarer and harder to find, original cars are even more appreciated" says David Gooding. "People are realizing that shinny isn't always the best. The cars that have never been touched have a lot to say." FWIW, Carl B.

I was 25 when I bought my first 240-Z in March of 1970. A Silver beauty HLS30 01777. Then bought my Metallic Blue 72 in Dec. of 71, which I still have. Oh... that last picture was taken at about 125mph in the AZ outbacks.. by my first wife. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: You have seen Kat's car in person haven't you? (or not?). I was amazed that Kat's car was entered in "Daily Driver" class... Did I understand that correctly? Maybe there is some confusion over the judging rules between Daily Driver and STOCK. Did you deduct points if the cars had plastic emblems when they originally came with metal? Or did you award extra points for the correct, perfect metal emblems? (as well as all other fine details Kat's is talking about). Are Daily Drivers allowed OEM Replacement Parts.. even if newer versions.. with no deductions? (would seem to make sense in the Daily Driver Class). As I originally understood it - a perfect condition Nissan OEM replacement part - even if a later version - would score as well as a perfect original part and indeed score better than a slightly less than perfect but still original part. Maybe you could fill us in on a little more of the judging criteria it terms of the trade-off's etc. thanks, Carl B.

Hi Mark: Funny story - I'm sure we've all done things like that... I had a large drill - and large concrete bit - trying to drill a 1/2 hole through a 40 year old concrete block wall - that stuff is like iron! I pushed and drilled and drilled and pushed until my arms got tired... A friend was standing there at the time and he said - "take a break and let me do that for a minute". So I stood up and handed him the drill... he sat down held the drill up in the air and pulled the trigger... As soon as he did that I knew what had happened.... he reversed the direction of rotation and in about ten seconds drilled throught the wall...... da.... I had the drill running in reverse !!!. I still laught about that when I see him... and that was twenty years ago!! FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ron (everyone) No question the "seller" did well. I personally believe the "buyer" did not. Several other, far better cars, with far better documentation have passed though E-Bay in the past few months for that price or less ... just why this buyer paid what he did for that car is beyond me. Granted that you think it's understandable and I understand your rational. However rationalized - it represents IMHO - very poor decision making on the part of the buyer, because he isn't getting the full value out of his money. I understand what your saying - but.... This really isn't about what we would pay is it? ... it's about what people that are knowledgeable of the specific models and who have shopped the current market.. would honestly recommend that someone else pay - and hopefully support that recommendation with examples relevant to the discussion. If the prospective buyer had come here - done his research... I wonder if he would have paid that amount for that car, or if he would have contiuned to shop for a better car at the same price, or a like condition car for half the price. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi strange... It would help if you told us exactly what model year Z you are dealing with. I will be thinking of a 240-Z in my answers - if you have something else - they may or may not apply. The line by the alternator is the original Fuel Return Line to the tank. The line on the Drivers side - is a fuel vapor recovery/air vent (when fuel vapors are not being sent from the vapor recovery tank in the rear to the engine - fresh air flows back to the tank (that is the purpose of the valve with three in/out's - that is supposed to be there on the fender-well). A return line with the triples - allows fuel temp's to be averaged at lower temperatures - so with higher under hood temp's - a fuel system that circulates cooler fuel from the tank, past the carb.'s is a good idea. When you park the car with a hot engine - the fuel expands as it heats... so a return allows for that expansion pressure to be relieved. If your set up doesn't have a provision for a return - then you simply need the same type of fuel fitting on the end carb, that you have on your center carb. - so a return line can be used. I don't see any need for a catch can prior to the return to the tank. The Stock 240-Z fuel tank is NOT vented to the atmosphere - it is designed to trap all fuel vapors and either return them to liquid state or burn them in the engine. So with triples you need to be using a VENTED Gas Cap - or drill a small hole in your existing cap to allow the tank to vent and or breath in air to replace the gas your pumping out... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Kats: It is only a matter of time before Datsun 240-Z's will be very carefully judged based upon having every nut, bolt and screw being "correct" for the model and date of the car. It might be five years, it might be ten, but you are young enough to see and enjoy the time when it has been accomplished. The very fact that we collect these correct parts, are interested in them, discuss them, will drive the eventual Judging Standards somewhere, at some time in the future - to include them in minute detail. Like the path taken years ago by previous Classic's - at some point in the future we will have the documentation gathered together in one place, and published in one form - that will define for the future Judges exactly what is "correct" and what therefore isn't. At first this documentation won't be perfect - but it will evolve to ever higher and higher standards over the following years. This may happen over time within the ZCCA - or it may happen outside the ZCCA. Somewhat the same manor it happened in the Corvette Community or the Thunderbird Community. There is however a growing number of people that would like to focus strictly on defining what a Datsun 240-Z as it left the factory should look like. When this now small but growing group of people is large enough - I think you'll see the documentation developed that will be necessary to "Certify" 240-Z's as being "as they left the factory". So hang in there and keep gathering those coveted rare parts.... hope to see you in Daytona this year... Carl B.

Hi John: There might be some truth to that today - the real question is if it will hold true for long. The Buyers of Classic British Iron - are for the most part the generation that proceeded the Baby Boomers. They were 25 to 30 years old when the first big Healey's hit the market and today some of them have the funds to have the dream car of their day. No question the big Healeys have much appeal - beautiful classic lines and a full roadster at that. The Baby Boomers however out number their previous generation by about 3 to 1 and when the Datsun 240-Z came out they were 25 to 30. Now the Baby Boomers, flush with cash, are fully in the Classic Collector and Special Interest market - most obviously in the Muscle Car market... but within that generational group - it's the Datsun 240-Z that was and is the dream car of their youth. The fact that the above is true - is one of the, if not the, most important qualities of the Datsun 240-Z. Almost overnight it changed the American Consumers perception of the Quality of Japanese Automobiles. That is the reason that the Datsun 240-Z is considered to be one of the ten most important cars in U.S. Automotive History. Just the way I see it.... Carl B.

Hi John (everyone): This has turned into a long magazine article - so read it when you have the time. In advertising/marketing there is a concept referred to as "Product Ladders". Product Ladders are a conceptual way of looking at how consumers rank competing products in over-all terms. One of the most famous examples of how this was applied, took place in the Automobile Rental industry. At the time Hertz was the leading automobile rental company in the U.S. and it was about seven times bigger than it's nearest competitor. Hertz used the advertising slogan of "We're #1" which was followed by the fact that Hertz was there for you at all major airports in the country - so you could count on them to have a car almost anywhere you needed one, when you needed it. American's love Champions/Winners.... and hate sore losers. A rather bright guy took on the Avis account for a medium size advertising agency and at that point in time Avis was about the sixth largest automobile rental agency in the U.S. He came up with the advertising slogan "Avis, we're #2 - so we try harder"... which after the first few years was shortened to "We Try Harder". That slogan defined a Product Ladder in the consumers minds for the Automobile Rental Industry for the first time, even though thousands of other consumer products had done the same over the years, and even though most didn't realize it some did. What "Product Ladder" do you think people paying $40K to $60K for a big Healey have in their minds? Perhaps it's a "Classic British Sports Car" Product Ladder. Jag. D-Type on the top rung all the way down to a Triumph Spitefire at the bottom (no offense to Spitfire owners - I admit I know nothing about that product ladder -it's just an example to put the image in your mind). In the above sense - it makes sense that if one can not afford a D or E-Type... lovers of Classic British Sports Cars move down the rungs until they find a rung on the ladder that they can afford. On the other hand, the really big money people run out of D-E's to buy at the top and they start adding the cars to their Collections from the lower rungs - a big Healey perhaps - to their Collections. Today that rung seems to be at the $40K-$60K level - approaching the top rung for small money people - and the question to be answered over the next ten years is - "Will the big money people be willing to come down the Ladder to start buying them up and in so doing - start bidding against one another for them". We'll all be watching to see if that happens. One thing that does happen is this - as the prices paid for the Top Rungs go up - the entire Product Ladder moves up and usually it's one rung at a time. The main reason a big Healey is today commanding $40K-$60K is because an E-Type is now what??? $85K to $120K and there are still some nice #3 cars that can be bought every once in a while. In the past couple of years I've personally seen several #2 Datsun 240-Z's change hands in the $30K to $35K range, and one #1 280Z be sold for $40K. I have more than a couple of serious Collectors constantly bugging me to find them #1 or #2 Datsun 240-Z's - and there is no doubt in my mind that any of them will gladly pay $40K to $50K for a #1 Condition car - the problem is, I haven't found a single #1 Condition 240-Z that any owner will part with, and very few #2 Condition cars. So what Product Ladder do these Collectors have in their minds, what class of Collectors are they (small money or big money) - and on what rung do they place the Datsun 240-Z. ???? My best guess, based on watching this market pretty closely, having dabbled in Classic, Collectible and Special Interest cars a bit myself and now dealing with a growing number of these Collectors would be: a) The Product Ladder is "The Worlds Best Sports/GT's and/or Sports Cars". The rung is not quite the bottom one but close - because there are very few inexpensive cars on that Product Ladder to begin with. c) At present it is both small money and big money Collectors in the market. Small money and big money Collectors overlap today in the $75K to $125K price range. What is amazing to me is that Datsun 240-Z's are now sitting side by side in Collections with half million dollar Ferrari's and Porsches as well as $100K BMW's and M/B's. The Chevy Corvair will always be at the bottom rungs of the "Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Chevy" Product Ladder - even though they are unique, have great competition history and industry leading technology. Nonetheless I doubt they will ever make the leap to other Product Ladders like the "Worlds Best Sports/GT's or Sports Cars". Can the Big Healey's ever make the leap to other Product Ladders where their value will increase at a much higher rate of appreciation - we'll have to wait to see. Maybe it's happening now - maybe not. Could be like the Corvair's the big Healey's well stay strictly on the "Classic British Sports Car" Ladder.. The Datsun 240-Z has already made the move from the "Japanese Sports Cars" Product Ladder and their present market values encourage their restoration even at twice the cost of their current market values. Personally, I'd rather have two #2 Condition Datsun 240-Z's today at $30K each than one Big Healey at $60K. I believe it would be a far safer bet - and worse case you'd actually have a car you could drive anytime anywhere. Will a Datsun 240-Z ever bring higher values than the big Healey's?... I could easily see that happening because the Z seems to have far broader appeal on several different Product Ladders. You see this reflected in polls like AUTOMOBILE Magazine's rankings of the best Sports/GT's of the Decade - were for the decade of the 70's the Datsun 240-Z ranked second only to the Ferrari 365-GTB Daytona. The idea that a group of automotive experts and/or top enthusiasts even thought of the Datsun 240-Z in the same light as the decades super exotics should tell you something. Time will tell.... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: Hope you know I was just razzing you a little... the truth is you must know the "values" pretty well as you bought the Red Z at the RIGHT price. regards, Carl

Hey... is this the same Arne that was telling me that the Silver Pig in Texas, with Lip Stick - WAS worth $15K - - and how your saying that a Series I car with 39K original miles isn't worth $15K??? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-Datsun-240z-Mint-Condition-California-Beauty_W0QQitemZ290092734632QQcategoryZ6187QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Have you been in the cabin too long this Winter :-)... Someone has now bid that Silver 71 up to $10,101.00 - if that car is worth $10K - then the Series I car is worth $18K AT or no AT... even with a few dents in the floor.. heck - a crack free Series I dash alone is worth a grand.. Time for a Florida Vacation Arne... come on down! Carl B.

oops... Carl B.

Hi Guys: The L24's in the 240-Z's have always be "cold natured". When they were brand new - starting from cold (anything below 70 degrees is cold to them)... it took several seconds of cranking to catch and start. As the cars age - the mechanical fuel pumps loose a little efficiency.. and it takes longer for them to suck the gas back into the fuel lines - then push it to the carb.s. The longer the car sits without being started - the longer it takes the first time to start. If you are in a colder area of the US/Canada... in the Fall and Winter months... it can easily take 5 to 10 seconds of cranking when the temp's are below 60 degrees. The efficiency of the battery and the battery terminal connections will also cause delayed starting. Make certain that your battery terminals, cables and connections at the starter are CLEAN and TIGHT. Fuel Injected Z's and all newer cars - maintain fuel pressure in the lines - atomize the fuel more completely via high pressure rather than high temp.'s - and meter the air/fuel mixtures with far more precision - so they "instant start" for the most part - don't expect an L24 with carb's to do that. Once everything is warmed up - the L24's should fire on the first couple of cranks.. FWIW, Carl B.

I've always used 6 to 7 lbs/ft based in the bolt diameter... The main reason I use a torque wrench on them is to get a uniform compression of the valve cover gasket. Oh.. I've used Nissan OEM Valve Cover Gaskets and used to buy the Fel-Pro gaskets. Never had any trouble with either. seems to work... Carl B.

I use a light coating of Permatex "High Tack Gasket Sealant" - on the valve cover side only. That way, when you lift the valve cover off to adjust valves - the gasket stays with the valve cover. The valve cover is cast aluminum alloy - and can be somewhat pitted... so a little sealant is useful. The head on-the-other hand is a far higher quality casting and machined to an ultra smooth surface - you really should not need a sealant on that interface. It is VERY important to torque the valve cover bolt down to their spec. -in the proper order (center out ward). The re-torque them after the engine has been run though a few heat cycles. Also important to use valve cover bolts with good and clean threads. As Chris said - make sure you are dealing with very clean surfaces. Here is a good reference chart <a href=www.permatex.com/documents/GasketDressingSelector.pdf TARGET=NEW> Permatex Gasket Dressing Selector </a> FWIW, Carl B.

Hi John: I was under the impression that the "Collector" Cars could only be "Exhibited" at the ZCCA Conventions once they attained the Gold Medallion Award. After that they would be exhibited/displayed, but no longer allowed to compete in Judged Events at the ZCCA Annual Convention. (yes/no?) Nonetheless, I agree that part of the over-all progression of the Datsun 240-Z's will be their growing entry into the Concours Events. Collectors that now own Classics of several different Marquees are adding the Datsun 240-Z to their Collections. In private collections around the country Datsun 240-Z's now sit proudly beside Classic Ferrari's, Porsche's, Jaguars, Corvettes etc. That wasn't so much the case 10 short years ago. I guess I was thinking more along the lines of the evolution followed by the Enthusiasts and Collectors of a single Marque; more so than that of the over-all Classic Car environment. More along the lines of say the mid-year Corvettes - ie. their Bloomington Gold Certification or NCRS Flight Award for correctly restored Corvettes. In that context I put a group at each end of a more narrowly defined continuum Enthusiasts at one end and the Ultimate Collectors at the other - just to abstract the discussion from the hundreds of variables and exceptions of the real world. While I certainly enjoy being in the company of Dan and Charlie - I don't own a "Concours Quality 240-Z" in the sense of the term "as it left the factory". I do own and am restoring an historic competition car - but it is hardly "as it left the factory" and will be pretty much as raced - original Baja Dents left in the floors - lots of holes drilled for various reasons left in place etc. I hope it will be as cleanly prepared as BRE originally did it - but it will be restored more as a typical competition car - not really done to show perfection. (I've already got a couple of scratches in it..;-) Like several others I could name here - I have accumulated most of the parts needed to restore a 240-Z to #1 Stock Condition, I have a car that is a good basis... but so far I haven't started on that project. I do have a Blue 72 240-Z that I bought new at the end of 71 - I've refreshed it. I also have a White 72 that I bought to drive - I've refreshed it as well. I'd rate both a solid #3 condition Z's. Actually today there are of course more than just Enthusiasts or Collectors.... most of us are blends of the two extremes and it will stay that way for a while. I can think of several guys here, that would fall into three or four more narrowly defined groups. Enthusiasts: a) Racers/Performance Oriented (Historic, Drag, Road, Auto-crossing) Restorers - derive pleasure from the process of refreshing or restoring these cars c) Drivers - Grand Touring, Daily Driving, Weekend Drivers - own and drive for pleasure d) Original Owners - the 240-Z is a member of the family and most of us will die owning ours e) The enthusiasts that owns one "Collector Quality 240-Z" Collectors: 1) Actually Collect #1 and/or #2 Condition Cars - "the collection" is the goal. 2) An Enthusiast that happens to also own a #1 or #2 condition car - and shows it. 3) Collectors of Rare Parts that enjoy owning a collection of them 4) Collectors of Marque Memorabilia and Historic Items associated with the Marque 4). ..... As I said - interesting discussion at any rate... FWIW, Carl B.