Carl Beck

Hi Luke: In stock form - the 240-Z will exhibit a significant amount of body roll in harder or higher speed turns. This can be a little unsettling if your not totally at peace with the car. Nonetheless, if you have taken any number of drivers training courses, with good instructors and in the process developed a good feel for the 240-Z... you'd be amazed at what it's capable of even in pure stock form. (I've taken a few hot laps around Portland International Raceway with John Morton driving, in both pure stock 510's and 240-Z's..simply unbelievable, and we didn't leave the track nor rollover even once!) IMHO - the first thing you want to spend money on is great tires. Adding a larger front anti-sway bar, along with better shocks would be my second expenditure. This will greatly reduce body roll without adding a significant amount of harshness to a street driven car. For the use you describe for your Z - I'd stop there. At that point the normal body roll in cornering would be greatly reduced, and you'd still have a bit of understeer combined with some complaining from the tires as they reach their limit of adhesion. This is an important feedback loop... tires screaching tell you that you are most likely approaching your limit.... Adding a large rear anti-sway bar in addition to the above - will make the Z handle more in the neutral zone. The car will feel flatter in the corners, and you won't get so much complaining from the tires as you approach their limit. While this may seem like a good thing at first blush... I don't believe it is a good thing for the average driver on the highway. (I feel I'm an average driver). Pushed just a little harder with the front/rear anti-sway bars and stiffer shocks .. the handling will transition from neutral to over-steer somewhat unexpectedly, and you'll find yourself spinning off the corner. (As will lifting off the throttle suddenly when you enter a corner too hot ). Believe me when I say - you won't believe how suddenly nor unexpectedly this will happen as you pass the limits of tire adhesion to the road. (been there done that - a few times). The bottom line for me is - a little body roll and tire screeching are a good thing for most of us. As is a little understeer. If your going Road Racing.. and you are a competent driver...that's a whole different world. I'd recommend only upgrading the front anti-sway bar for street use and combine that with better shocks. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

I guess it's time to get back into the muffler business!! Yea GAD!... you've got to be putting us on! $420.00... for a very simple pipe and muffler. Twenty years ago - I charged $115.00 for that job. You say it took them two days..... that is a 1/2 hour job. Here in Florida you must be given a written estimate if you ask for one, and they can not exceed that by more than 10% without your written permission ... did you ask for a written estimate? If not, that is most likely one reason you good taken to the cleaners.. There is nothing you can do now - except pay the bill. Then go home a write the Midas Home Office and ask them if they condone that type of business practice. If you have a local TV Stattion with a Consumer Protection Program .. copy the letter that you write to Midas to them as well... live an learn... When dealing shops you don't personally Know - always get a written estimate before work begins.. or go elsewhere.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mohammed: I can't be certain because the Factory Service Manuals that I have for 77/78 do not provide the Installed Height, nor the Load for the Front/Rear Springs on the 280Z. The Free Length of the OEM springs is longer in Front... but the Spring Rate is higher in the Rear. Number of Coils = 9.5 Front and 8.5 Rear Free Length = 15.98 in. Front and 15.43 Rear Spring Rate = 103 lbs/in. Front and 127.7 lbs/in. Rear For example - the 240-Z's had a 48/52 Front/Rear weight distribution per the Factory Service Manuals. 1166 lbs. on the front and 1270 lbs. on the rear. 48% Front and 52% rear. I wouldn't assume that the weight of the engine in front makes the front of the 280Z heavier than the rear. As I recall from different road test the front/rear weight distribution stayed about the same for the 240-Z, 260-Z and 280-Z's. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Greg: Did you find the Date of Manufacture on your Z? It 's on the drivers door jam. Also the original engine serial number - which is on the data tag under the hood.. thanks, Carl B.

AD no longer available... anyone know what happend? Carl B.

Hi Matt: Thanks for letting us know. You do have something rare - a Datsun 240-Z with a known owner history and a Father-in-law that would give you his 240-Z. He must think a lot of you... FWIW, Carl B.

Haven't seen one of those in years... that is the Deno or Pantera deck.. It did have the advantage of both hiding anything you were carrying, and cutting down on the hot air mass of the rear deck area. Also looks like the factory competition hood scoop... Two rare parts on one car.... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jon: Think about that.......(hint - spring rates)... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: With the older KYB gas pressure shocks, no one reported, nor did I notice any increase in ride height when they were installed. However it "seems" that the newer KYB GT-2's as well as the Tokico's do result in an increase in ride height if only the shocks are changed. The OEM front springs in the 240-Z are rated at about 83lbs/in.. and the load on the front strut is about 562lbs to 602lbs. So a high pressure gas shock that had a positive pressure of 83 lbs.. would unload the spring and lift the car 1 inch. If they are installed with aftermarket springs - that have a shorter Free Length to begin with, and which have a higher spring rate - the effect would not be as great. If the after-market springs have a spring rate of say 125 lbs./in. then lifting 83 lbs off the load, would result in about a 1/2 inch increase in ride height... ( but the shorter springs would hide that effect to an extent). The original gas filled shocks... used an inert gas (nitrogen) to reduce foaming in the oil in the shock when the shock was pumped rapidly. However they had a very low positive pressure. From what I've read and been told by people who are supposed to know - the new Gas Pressure Shocks do have a very high positive pressure. The Racing Shop that measured the spring rates for me (on the OEM and re-production springs), told me that the cars they more normally deal with - like Camero's/Firebirds.. high pressure shocks can have a positive pressure as high as 100 lbs. I guess we'll have to get a couple of the newer KYB's and Tokico's and actually measure the amount of upward force they produce. Then take the matter up with the manufacturers... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bo: Do you have the spec.'s on the Tokico springs? Free Length Number of coils Wire diameter What wheel/tire combo are you running? Would be interesting to see what it takes to drop the front end with their shocks. thanks, Carl B.

Hi Bob: Maybe the seller didn't lie. Could be he was simply using a different context in making his remarks, as opposed to the context in which you took it. Rare - well compared to the number of Red Mustangs sold in 1970... A Safari Gold 240-Z was a rare color. Rare - true, go to a Z Car Show and Safari Gold Z's aren't really all that common today... all to many have been repainted Red or Silver... In the context of the color mix of 240-Z's received by the Dealers in 1970 - Safari Gold was among, if not the, most common color. The thing is - when people see a "mustard" colored 240-Z with it's 30 year old, badly faded paint they go ... uck... In turn they don't repaint the car that mustard color... On the other hand when they see a fully restored Safari Gold car at a car show - with it's bright and shinny Safari Gold color - they usually like it a lot. Looks "Period Correct"... When people make very general statements... like "its a rare color"... you always have to ask them for further elaboration on that statement. Just a thought.... FWIW, Carl B.

Oops...for got the Picture... Carl

Hello Mohammed: I do not have any specifications for the aftermarket "ST" springs, so I can not answer your question directly. I can however tell you that the OEM/Stock springs for the 240 have: Front Springs 10 Coils Rear Springs 10.65 Coils Right Front Spring Free Length = 15.2 inches (386mm) Left Front Spring Free Length = 14.7 inches (373.5mm) Rear Springs Free Length = 14.5 inch (369mm) So the free length of the OEM/Stock Front Springs is longer than the rear. The Rear Springs have more coils, in a shorter distance... so their spring rate is greater than the front. The Spring Rates for the OEM/Stock Springs are: Front = 83 lbs/in. (1.48 kg/mm) Rear = 103.6 lbs/in. (1.85 kg/mm) I agree with John - almost everyone I've heard from reports that the new gas shocks, being sold for the 240-Z's will raise the ride height of the car between .75 and 1.25 inches. I believe that this is an issue we need to take up with KYB and others... Looking at the picture you provided - the front of the car looks about right to me - but the rear is sagging. With a stock 240-Z, with stock wheels/tires - you can normally place three to four of your fingers, with your hand held vertically - between the top of the tire and the wheel arch. Stock Ride Height for the 240-Z, if you measure from the bottom of the rocker panel to the pavement - is 8.00 to 8.25 inches. Measured at the notch in the pinch weld seam, where the car's jack is supposed to be placed... Note - measure to the bottom or underside of the rocker panel... not to the pinch weld seam that sticks down below the bottom of the rocker panel. Wheel/tire size can increase or decrease ride height... so you have to take the effect of larger or smaller diameter tires/wheels into account - when using the 8 / 8.25 inch measurement. Remember that the 240-Z's were Sports/GT's... with all independent suspension. Lots of ground clearance, lots of spring/shock travel. In stock form they aren't supposed to be sitting on the ground.. Note Picture of Stock 240-Z below - see the ground clearance in front.... see the tire/wheel arch clearance in the front. FWIW, Carl

Hi Arne: You are too kind, and too humble (quality traits I've never developed;-) - I'm sure you know as much about these cars as any of us. For that matter I'm sure there are several guys here that have extensive knowledge and hands on experience. We may all know some aspects of these cars better than most others, but it's the combined knowledge base that matters most..... 36 years and I still don't understand the electrical system (what were they thinking!?) I just happen to have been lucky enough to have lived with the 240-Z's since they arrived here in the US. Lucky enough to have worked for a Datsun Dealer in the early 70's.... and smart enough to realize the Datsun 240-Z was the best Sports/GT I could ever hope to own. The only down side to that is that it makes me an old fart... I think the main thing is that many of us are willing to share what we know, learn what we didn't know and discuss everything that's questionable... and do it time after time as new people come into the Z Car Community ;-) FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Greg: (everyone).. Joining this thread a little late... You'll have to let me know the build date and the original engine serial number - so I can get it in my data base. I too lived in Ohio - Ashland/Mansfield area - and I helped build Mid-Ohio! The Mid Ohio Sports Car Club was the first Club I joined in ah...1962... Are you sure the BRE Car you saw was a replica? I know that the Mason's run the Vintage Races at Mid-Ohio in their BRE #3 240-Z. Good to see you here, and hope you'll have a great time restoring #379. So far we have located 139 1969 Production Datsun 240-Z's... #378 was at the Z Barn in Knoxville. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Unbelieveable...what is the matter with these people? I would have snatched that one up in a heart beat.. (if I could have gotten someone over there to look it over first ;-) That car would easily sell for $5,500.00 here in Florida... maybe more... FWIW Carl B.

Hi Walter: I've been down that road. I'm still not sure where it ends.. and I really don't care. I simply make sure that as I'm going along, I enjoy every step to it's fullest. Getting done, is never my goal... enjoying the process is. I bought my White 72 and stored it for four years, before starting the "refresh"... Once I started on it, it took about a year to get it back on the road. AIR that all started about 8 years ago. When I say it took a year - keep in mind that I was retired by then... so I had pretty much full time to devote to the project. I've been working on my current project for about 2 1/2 years now... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Steve (everyone): Given your description, if it was in my area, and if I had the room to store it... I'd go grab it at $1,500.00 or anything less if possible. I'd bet that at this point, if you showed up in person with $900.00 CASH in your hand - the seller would let you drag it out of there. (for that matter at $1K or less I'd grab it even if I didn't have the room to store it;-) As you said - it is restorable... low VIN, matching numbers, all data tags. It's getting very hard to find a restorable Series I car - almost regardless of condition for anything less than $3,500.00. Almost without exception now - all the Series I and II Z's you'll find under $5K will need floorboard replaced. If you wanted to do a full refresh or restore - starting with a bare body shell - it would be hard to find a lower buy in point. I'd strip it down to bare metal and put it in epoxy primer, to stop all rust from progressing first thing ... then store it for later. But I wouldn't attempt to store it without first stopping the rust. In the mean time, I'd be gathering all the parts needed to "refresh" or "restore" it. FWIW: Carl B.

Hi Carl: Your description is enough to tell me that its the schematic... no need to do the scan. I was hoping that someone had developed a color coded wiring diagram - that would show us non Electrical Types what wires run through what wiring harnesses and to what connectors they terminate.... the physical layout we deal with in the real world. thanks for the response Carl B.

Agreed.. if the car is as described it should have a base price of $7,500.00. Anyone know if Gary is doing well or not? Carl B.

Hi Chuck: The electric fuel pump was installed on the early 73 240-Z's as part of Nissan's attempt to resolve starting and running problems, mostly caused by the manor in which they meet the 1973 Emissions Standards. Higher combustion chamber temps., the flat top carb.'s and changes to engine ignition timing. The Dealers installed various "Kits " of items in Stages.. depending on how bad the problems were. (it wasn't an option so much as an attempt to get the cars to start and run). The problems with the fuel system were percolation, vapor lock and vacuum break. Past a certain time, Nissan starting including the electric fuel pumps at the factory on all 73's. In either case, Dealer Service Installation or Factory the existing wiring in the wiring harness was used to power the pump. You found the wires back by the tank. In your 72 there are two wires with female spade connectors in the wire bundle that is to the right side of the dash/center console interface. You have to make a jumper wire with two male spade connectors to join the two female spade connectors together. That will send power to the pump. In your 73 there should be two relays, bolted to a large relay bracket just above your feet on the right side kick panel. One relay powers the second relay that controls the power to the fuel pump. See: http://zhome.com/Dropbox/73FuelPumpRelaySm.jpg You can copy/download the image and blow it up If someone has changed out the carb,'s on your 73 - to the earlier SU's and car runs fine with the mechanical fuel pump - I see no reason to hook up the electric fuel pump. If your car still has the original Flat Tops... then the electric fuel pump will help a lot with hot starting and running on warmer days. In either case I would trace and remove the jumper wire someone else installed... you'll wind up with a short or floating ground you don't need... Hope that helps... Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Blaine: That car is at least $2K under the current market ... lots and lots of work already done - and most likely done correctly (I happen to know John)... A Series I car at that... for $6,850.00 it's a bargain... I'd find a way to go get it. This one is ready to go - as a daily driver, with the possibility of doing a full restore in the future... Clutch, tires, wheels, suspension, etc etc all done... heck you'd be paying $1,500.00 for the car...! and saving all that time... just paying for the a fraction of the parts/labor you'd put into another $5K car.. If that ad has been there for very long - it's most likely sold already. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Blaine: I think your not too far off. As long as you realize that is most likely just the starting point. For the most part, if you look far and wide, you can still find a good 240-Z in the $5K to $6K range. It will be good for weekend short trips around town and it will look pretty good from 10 feet.... If you are real lucky it will be "mostly" rust free... meaning the frame rails and area under the battery will be solid... and it might have just a few small rust holes in the floorboards upon close inspection (once you remove the tar mat). Then over the next few months, you fall in love with the car, and decide to fix a few things, do a little maintenance etc..(we've all been there..or are still there now). The $6K car needs (well it could use) a new set of tires and when you install them, you find the front end still shakes at 65mph... so new shocks, ball joints come next. You notice that the brakes could use some attention because the Master Cylinder just started leaking... or the clutch Master / Slave finally gives out (now that it's being driven often)... That exhaust smell has to be fixed..so new weatherstrips/seals in the deck lid and around the tail lights etc. Now we're cruse'n... and darn the clutch is slipping badly... new clutch... At this point you are five to six months down the road.. you've spent eight to ten weekends on various fun projects like changing the clutch and shocks etc... and although the engine had been rebuilt by the PO... the carb's have throttle shafts that are leaking and it's all but impossible to tune the car out perfectly... nothing a rebuilt set won't cure.... need to change all the rubber fuel lines as well... might as well do the belts... OK - so $6K for the car plus another $3K to $5K for the needed service (depends on how much time you have to do the service yourself, or how much your local Z Shop will charge for some items.).. You can usually buy the cars outlined above - that the PO how has $11K to $14K and a lot of personal work in - for around $8K to $9K. Might be a bit less West of the Mississippi.... The PO's will have extensive documentation / service bills / parts bills etc - and they will have done all this work within the last three years... Personally, I'd spend the $8K to $9K today if I found the car that had been recently gone though... You are time and money ahead at that point.. the drive the car across the State or across country... and start thinking about "refreshing" the paint and body work ;-) FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Gang: My wife Vicki, my Daughter Mary Alice and I had attended the Concours Event in Winter Park, Florida this past weekend. It was a real pleasure to finally meet Bob in person along with his wife Sherry. Also got to look Bob's beautiful 240-Z over and admire his work. The Event should be on everyone's "Do Not Miss" list of Events. It was a beautiful setting, lots and lots of wonderful Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Automobiles all in Concours Condition. The shops and restaurants along Park St. were all open on Sunday, so lots of places for the girls to shop while you enjoy the cars. Lots of places with food and drink - all very reasonable priced. (a bottle of water, all but frozen was a Buck!!... no price gouging there at all!!). Next year, I'll make arrangements for the girls to simply meet me back at the car when they are done shopping at the end of the show. I could have stood there talking with Bob, meet more of the Z Car Community and had a much better time... plus the girls would have enjoyed shopping more without me... Live and learn. I had reported that Bob took 1st In Class with his 240-Z - Way To GO! Pictured below are Bob with his wife Sherry and the second love of his life... the DATSUN 240-Z. Thanks to Jim Clark for taking the pictures... I forgot my camera...da... FWIW, Carl

Hi Bob: Man is that screwed up or what... I pasted the wrong words in the wrong place... That is just too funny... I'll try it again... Carl B.