Carl Beck

Hi daddz: The text in my copy, has both the English and Japanese on the same page in most cases. Factory Brochures - from Japan are presented and not translated, as are some Ad.'s from Japan - but for the most part the book is written in English. Contains some very interesting chapters related to Carol Shelby and Peter Brock as well. While it is a relatively expensive book - it is worth every penny IMHO. 352 pages of Very High Quality Printing... and mostly filled with wonderful photo work... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gang: Needless to say that when I first read the "Subject" of this thread... I was more than a bit shocked!! Then as I read the news article referenced in the first Post... I realized it was not my friend Peter, but rather the famous Australian Peter Brock. I received the following from Gayle Brock, - the USA's Peter Brock's wife, and I reprint it here with her permission. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -- To: Carl Beck From: Gayle Brock Subject: Peter Brock - Australian It is with great sadness we have learned the Australian race driver, Peter Brock, was killed in a crash in the Australian Targa Rally today. We had just seen Peter last weekend in the UK at the Goodwood Revival, commenting on the ever-increasing confusion between the Australian Peter Brock and the American Peter Brock with the Australian’s latest foray of driving a replica Cobra Daytona Coupe in competition. Although the American Peter Brock is not associated with this Australian-built replicar, he is known, amongst other things, as the designer of the original Cobra Daytona Coupe in 1964 and the Superformance Cobra Daytona Coupe in 1999. At Goodwood last weekend, the Australian Brock drove a Corvette Stingray, a car the American Peter Brock designed while at GM in the late 1950s. Further confusion has occurred with news reports stating Peter Brock had just returned from Goodwood and was killed in a rally in WA (referring to Western Australia). The American Peter Brock had just returned from Goodwood to his US residence in WA State. The Australian Peter Brock was a racing icon in Australia and New Zealand winning the Bathurst touring car race a record 9 times. The American Peter Brock had great respect for the Australian driver and interviewed him almost 10 years ago for an article in Racer magazine entitled “Brock on Brock.” It is extremely sad to see the end of such an accomplished career although it is colored with the thought of how the Australian went out doing what he loved. Our sincerest condolences go out to his family. Peter and I want to thank the hundreds of people who have contacted our offices today to check on the American Peter Brock. We always feel very fortunate in life but maybe just a little more so today. Sincerely, Gayle - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - FWIW, Carl B.

If you just bought, or plan to buy an Optima battery - just to get you on the road for now...... Basically the Optima Height Adaptor can be placed under the battery, or on top if your using the side mounts for the battery terminals. So if you put the height adaptor on top - and still want to use the top mount terminals..... you have to cut the area around the top terminals out of the height adaptor.. Since the Red Top Optima is smaller (length and width) than the original battery - I simply cut the plastic height adjustor into a couple of pieces... then placed them around the top of the battery - to fit the OEM battery hold down frame.... While this solution works fine, I have a "custom bracket" on my long list of "things to do"... BTW - that Red Top really cranks an L24 over!!! FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jeff: The looks of the Weland air cleaners - cost you performance. They do not have enough room for the air horns that the SU's need for proper operation. You are far better off with the stock air cleaner, which does have the air horns built into the base. Go or Show.... your choice.... FWIW, Carl B.

I'd like to see a close up of the brackets (if that is what they are) on the front fenders - looks like they may have been there for fender mounted mirrors...??? I'd also like to know the VIN and Original Engine Serial Number (stamped on the block)... No way to tell if it is a 240-Z or just a 2.0L Fairlady Z. Also interesting to see that it has the Flat Top's... were they OEM in Japan for 73, or added to meet US Emissions Standards?? thanks, Carl B.

Jeff - add about 1 inch to your measurements - to get to the bottom of the rocker panel - as I recall the pinch weld is about 1 inch lower than the bottom of the rocker panel.. TomoHawk is measuring to the bottom of the rocker panel.... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ed (everyone): We had this discussion some time ago, in another thread. I recorded the information everyone reported then, and I'm trying to add any additional data I can from this thread. "Ride Height" as reported by Nissan for our US Spec. 240-Z's was measured from the front part of the frame rails, just behind the point at which they meet the floorboards. In stock form that is the lowest point to the ground and that is supposed to be 6.34 inches (161mm). However - given that point can be and in all to many cases is - damaged or bent up... we were using the more consistent measurement points from the bottom of the rocker panel to the ground at the front and rear jacking points. (bottom of the ROCKER - NOT the bottom of the pinch weld under it. The pinch weld sticks down about an inch farther). STOCK at those points on the bottom of the rocker panel - is 8 1/2" front and rear for the 240-Z. I believe that the 73 and forward to 78 Z's sat about 1/4 inch higher to meet the 73-78 bumper height standards for the US. (still trying to verify that....) Where it was reported, I also noted everyone's wheel/tire combinations... From the reported data - it would seem that the newer High Pressure Gas Shocks rise the ride height between 1/2 and 1 inch. A 1 1/2 inch lift has been reported.... So... back to Ed's original question.... Ed.. if you actually measured the distance from the frame rails, just behind the point at which they meed the floorboards to the ground - and that is 5 1/4 inch, it would seem that your car is sitting about 1 inch lower than stock. (if your running close to stock tire/wheel sizes). Most of the earlier "performance springs" for the 240-Z claimed that they lowered the car between 3/4 and 1 inch.... so that sounds normal. HOWEVER - you said "jack points on the framerails"...... There are no jack points on the frame rails, but there are places where jack stands can be safely placed. On the front frame rail that would be just under the point at which the compression rod meets the frame rail... and that point would be a couple inches higher.... so I hope you didn't mean that... There is no way I know of - to determine who make/sold your springs. At best some people might guess based on their "blue" coatings.... On top of that, even if you knew who made them, it is unlikely that you would be able to find out what the original spring rate was.... as many re-sellers didn't provide that specific data about the springs to begin with. FWIW, Carl

Hi Guys: It's truly a sad day for the world. I'm sure that I was just 1 of his 400,000,000 fan's here in the US. As one of the "men on the street" said in a news interview from Australia "he died doing what he loved"... but that we could all be so lucky... I feel like I lost a personal friend.... Crikey.... Heart felt sympathy to his wife and children... Carl B.

Hi Jay (everyone): GT SEATING vs. RACE/Competition CAR SEATING: Important to consider what your primary use or intention is for your seats. As Jay, the duffman and I found - with aging bodies ourselves... we wanted a Grand Touring style seat, that provided more leg, hip and back support on longer trips - without being as restrictive as Racing/Competition Seats are intended to be. For competition you may need a Racing Seat for a 4 or 5 point harness. For a GT seat, you may prefer an adjustable/removable head restraint... easier to gain access to items in the rear deck, better sound from rear mounted speakers etc. etc. For a competition seat you will find that the high back, built in head restraints are more common and stronger... Most speciality seat manufacturers (Recaro etc) make several different seats.. narrow to extra wide, Touring to Competition designs... Best if you can actually set in the seat before you buy. FWIW, Carl

The last thing you should see in the article is - "That's About It For Now"... So - when you have the metal braces in place on the seats, and the original seat tracks bolted to the braces (as in the last picture) - you're done. Except for bolting them back in the car of course... they are the stock seat brackets and bolt back to the stock position... I have not yet recovered them, nor added the memory foam... as they have been fine just the way they are... and just too many other projects got in the way. regards, Carl

Hi Jay: So far here's the best I've found. <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/AcuraSeats/AcuraBeck.htm TARGET=NEW> 96-98 Accura Seats </a> I've now put thousands of miles on the car with these and I've been very happy with them. FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

See: <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html TARGET=NEW>the Z Car Home Page</a> If you can't find a rear end locally call Idaho Z, they are not too far away, in Napa,Idaho..(208) 466-0004. Tell em Carl Beck said to say hello... FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Odd.. usually if it's only one side - its the Left Side of the hatch area that is damaged first. Look at this: <a href=http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm TARGET=NEW> Common Rust Area's Of The 240-Z <a> Pin holes on the outside mean big rust on the inside of the dog legs. You may want to order the Patch Panels for the Dog Legs and replace them while you are at it. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Adam: Given that you said you are using it against a painted surface, using a flange bolt with a lock washer should be no problem. It might be a problem if establishing a specific and/or critical torque on the bolt is necessary for it to do its job. If it's a body bolt or one with a relatively low torque spec. (say something below 25 lb/ft) I don't see any problem. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Geoff: It is believed that Logan's yellow Z racer, which was Red, White and Blue in prior years.. and before that it was the BRE #3 Z. It is still being raced in Vintage events, having been restored to it's original BRE #3 colors etc. I say "it is believed" because many people believe it. Dan Parkinson doesn't however, as he is convinced that he wrecked the #3 BRE Z years after he bought it from BRE in 73. Others believe that Dan actually bought the #46 car and wrecked that one.... At any rate here's a picture of Logan's car in the late 70's... (thanks to Clark Lance of New Jersey for sending them to me). FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Tom: If the engine was left in the car and car stored inside - I wouldn't give up on it too soon. Especially if it ran well and didn't burn any oil before it was parked. I'd sure try to save it if possible, it's hard to get a better engine than the one the factory put together in the first place. You might want to read/follow this thread.. See Post #8 and forward.. at: <a href=http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22619 TARGET=NEW> "Waking the sleeping beast"</a> good luck, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Marty: I've used SEM products for years. If you wipe the vinyl down with lacquer thinner - then apply a VERY LIGHT COAT of SEM Vinyl Dye, allow it to dry for 24 Hours, then buff with a soft cloth... it will wear will and well and not come off on your cloths. The lacquer thinner will soften the vinyl so the dye will soak in/or adhere. That said - I would not want to use it on the new seat covers unless the stained area is significant and there is no other way to clean it up...35 year old vinyl is not the best thing to attempt dying and the SEM might be a shade off the original.... in which case you'd wind up dying the entire surface of both seats... I'd try using a clean terry cloth rag, with some lacquer thinner to see if you can get the stain to lift off the vinyl. Make the terry cloth fairly wet with lacquer thinner ... hold it still on the stain for about 20 seconds.. then wipe gently, turning the rag to keep a clean surface in contact with the seat vinyl - and see if you can work the stain out.. (then wipe it dry). FWIW, Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

In your frame of reference - what would be an "affordable" price range for a daily driver that you could depend upon? FWIW. Carl B.

Hi Guys: I may have introduced some confusion when I said "right to left"... I really should have said A, B, of C Left To Right.... da.... Anyway Bill - I'll note your vote for the one on the Left.. Z-137... when you said "A" did you mean the one on the far left as well? - or did you really follow my original Post and label the one on the far right as "A"?. Ah the 70's.... ashtrays and lighters in all cars..."your free to smoke'em of you got em"... later, Carl B.

Hi Steve: At 70 mph+ the Z builds quite a low pressure area over the hood, and at the same time it builds quite a high pressure area under the hood.. the result is that the hood emblem is literally sucked up off the hood surface, then the wind gets under it and lifts it higher still until it flies off.....the good news is that as it flies off the car, the high speed air flow picks it up quickly - so it never hits the windshield nor roof. Metal or plastic - their minor difference in weight doesn't really seem to be a factor. Although I do believe that the clips (no matter which you use) do seem to hold better to the metal studs.. You can use either 3M Emblem Adhesive, or any good Silicone Adhesive... just make sure it's not a silicone calk, sealant/adhesive. (some silicone products are marketed as multiple use..but their adhesive strength is far less than the single purpose silicone adhesives. The 3M Emblem Adhesive is what GM and Ford usually use... it's somewhat like their weatherstrip adhesive, in that it stays somewhat pliable (a type of RTV perhaps?) .. and you can pull the emblems off if necessary - then remove the adhesive with a little dab of lacquer thinner. I apply it to both posts, then run a very thin bead around the inside of the groove around the outer edge (see arrow in the picture below). That way it seals the outer edges of the emblem to the surface of the hood and prevents the airflow from getting under the emblem. Once you push the emblem in place, if a little adhesive oozes out - you can clean it up with a Q-tip and some lacquer thinner. In the picture below - the emblem on the Left is metal, the one on the Right is plastic and Nissan fasteners are below. While the Parts Catalogs show "Clip-Tublar".... the bag of them that I have on hand show "CLIP-PUSHING".... same part number nonetheless. These clips don't seem to be a problem when used on the emblems on the rear quarters.. I don't use them on the rear deck lid either.. mostly because they rust there as well as on the hood. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Steve: Part Number 63845-18000 Clip-Tublar up to 07/73 All the hood emblems I've seen have been held on with small tubular clips - I haven't ran across the factory use of speed nuts on the hood emblems. Although I wouldn't think it would be a bad idea as long as you can get to them in order to get them off again if necessary. That said - I wouldn't recommend the use of the original tubular clips, which push into the holes from the outside of the body, and which are steel.. because the holes wear larger than original, the clips rust and the hood emblem can blow off at higher speeds. (lost two before I figured out what was happening). I now mount my hood emblems with 3M Emblem Adhesive on the mounting studs and on the back of the emblem itself. Haven't lost a hood emblem, nor had a rust problem since. FWIW Carl B. Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Mark: Good to see you here, and I'm sure you will have a lot to contribute. Aren't you glad you didn't sell that car in 2000? kind regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

And is there any rust on this 73? thanks, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Well that's encouraging news... If the car is solid - it's well worth the $8K number today. I'm amazed that cardogman1 didn't tell him it was worth $15K... I honestly expected a bottom price something closer to $10K.. $8K might be a little higher than one would want to go - for the basis of a complete and correct restoration - but personally I'd spend the extra few thousand to have a nice car to start with... it sure makes the process of restoration a lot more pleasant over the following couple of years.. thanks for the feedback... regards, Carl B.

If you let us know what budget you have in mind - it could greatly alter our advice. Are you thinking $5K or $25K? A 240-Z that is actually in beautiful conditoin and really road ready.. will run in the $9,500.00 to $14,500 range... Buy selectively and carefully in the $6K to $9K range today and you can realistically expect to have to put another $3K to $5K into the car... The bottom line is the more you can fund up front the less expensive in total cost the 240-Z will be. FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com