Carl Beck

I think that slogan was very relevant prior to 1970 here in the US. That was a time when “price” was actually related to “quality”. Also a time when Brand Name was a reliable indication of “quality”. Today you can’t count on price nor Brand Name to give an indication of the quality of the product. So we need a new slogan.. “Just because it is expensive - it doesn’t mean it is any good” “Poor quality goods are everywhere. If you want high quality - you have to seek it out” Maybe still the Best: “Ask the man who owns one." FWIW, Carl B.

The ABSORBER - the local WallMart carries them as well. Soft Bath Towels I believe that the key to avoiding the micro scratches you see in the surface - is to be consistent in keeping the surface clear of the micro fine particles of dust/grim that get attached to, or stuck in, the waxes and polishes that are used to coat/protect the paint. Most of the drying methods mentioned won’t actually scratch your paint. The micro scratches you usually see, are actually scratches in the surface built up wax/polish left on the car. They are the result of grim/grit that is still trapped in that remaining wax/polish even after you wash the car. Most people rinse the car off with just water if the car has a good wax shine, or they use very mild soaps so as not to remove the wax. So the remaining wax gets contaminated with micro fine particles. These micro fine particles can be dragged or moved across the surface - by contact with almost anything used to dry the car. If you are getting micro fine scratches showing up in your surface - it is past time to Clay Bar the car. Wash and dry your car - then run your finger tips over the dry surface. Clay Bar that area - and run your finger tips over it again. You will quickly see that what you thought was a “clean” surface - really had a lot of grim trapped. That grim you just removed with the Clay Bar - is what puts the micro scratches in the finish, if it is dragged around by anything coming in contact with it. FWIW,Carl B.

The Pictures Posted at #1 and #17 aren't loading? Any reason? Carl B.

Yes - $4106.00..your window sticker is more legible.. Dealer installed accessories were included on the New Car Sale Order. Many times the Dealers put a secondary Price Sheet in the windows of the cars, beside the required Manufacturers Window Sticker. On that secondary Price Sheet they listed the costs of the additional accessories. A/C and spoilers would have been on the Sales Order for sure.. FWIW, Carl B.

Really happy to see this 240Z in the hands of someone that can appreciate it. It is a rare beauty and the type of 240Z most Collectors and Enthusiasts dream of finding. I'll be watching this as the progress takes place. A word about the finish - CAUTION. Wash, Clay Bar, and very lightly polish that 40 year old enamel... you don't want to cut through the shiny skin coat - once it is gone, so is the shine! Enjoy the process... Carl B.

Yes, in that context I'd agree. For decades the 240Z's have been very low priced relative to the value they represent. It is a Supply/Demand situation. For decades the 60's Camero's and Mustangs were very inexpensive. You could pick up a well used 63-67 Vette for $3000.00 at one point. Sooner or later Suppy/Demand change. Now at 40+ years old - I think we are finally seeing the supply of good 240Z's becoming more limited - and demand is finally starting to increase again after the financial melt down of 2007/8. One problem, if that could be called a problem - is that too many people kept and cared for their 240Z's.. Amazing how many are still being driven after 40+ years. FWIW, Carl B.

Maybe MSRP $4156 for 1972? But that didn't include A/C {$499.00}, Dealer Prep, Transportation to the Dealership... Of course he could have got a "Deal" - but that wasn't very common in 72. Every one we sold had several Dealer Accessories added before the sale. Mag.'s, body side molding, front/rear bumper guards, custom pin stripping, vinyl roofs.. Out the door closer to $4800 with tax/tags.. I also looked at new Vette in 1970 - it was around $5200.00 then. But I really didn't like the Vette compared to the Z. It felt too cramped.. no luggage space etc. Plus the Chevy Dealer was less than impressive.. FWIW, Carl B.

I understand you point - but have to add a comment. I hear people all the time saying the 240Z sold because it was inexpensive.. I bought a 240Z in 1970 - trust me - it was not inexpensive and anything but "low cost". Sports Cars were a luxury to begin with - and the 240Z cost as much or more than any of its competition at the time. Lower cost Sports Cars like the like the Fiat 850 Spider, MG Midget and Austin Healey Sprite were closer to $2000.00.. No the 240Z was not a econo box..it was loaded with features that screamed Luxury {in a Sports Car}. Nor did many people actually buy a 240Z for less than a $1000.00 more than the MSRP.. when other cars could usually be bought for slightly less than their MSRP. MSRP’s on some 1970 Models: BelAir $2988.00Pontiac Catalina $3249.00 Fiat 850 Sport Spider $2168.00MG Midget $2279.00Austin Healey Sprite $2050.00 Toyota Corolla at $1856.00Datsun 1200 $1695.00Datsun 510 $1935.00 FWIW,Carl B.

SOLD $230K or $253K with buyer's premium

Wow.. a short drive to Memphis for the ZCCA Convention.. Bentonville by chance? good luck with the move.. Carl B.

As usual - you would have to see the quality of the repaint - along with everything else to determine if it's worth $17K.. High Quality repaint {as good or better than the original factory job} - with the engine bay gleaming etc etc - $17K doesn't seem too far out of line.. especial with a one owner car. If it was a less expensive surface repaint, with all glass left in etc... and the engine bay looks like 76K miles ..needing new shocks, a complete brake job, other suspension work....etc etc... $12K.. Although it looks great in the two pictures show.. Carl

Factor Service Manuals - show the windshield in the 240Z's attached with adhesive..

How about something like this...?

I wonder - without the rear strut tower brace - who has actually measured the amount of flex or distortion that is taking place at the tops of the shock towers to begin with. Is the brace supposed to hold them apart - or hold them down? {especially on a street car}. As far as body rigidity, or suspension movement etc goes - you might be better off bracing something else on a street car - without going to a full roll cage. As to your question - I don't see any difference between bracing one side or the other - but then I'm not an M.E... I could see the suggestion of using an "X" between the two sides - to help keep the floor or that section of the body from flexing. Up front you have a strong cross member holding the engine - and a strut tower brace above. With the rear you don't really have a lower structure as strong. At least no one else is offering anything like that {effective or not - }. Carl

Mr. K's first return to the USA for a Z Car event - was at the invitation of the Georgia Z Car Club. That was for the 25th Anniversary of the Z and held in Atlanta, GA 1995. Much of the HISTORY CHANNEL "History of the Z Car" was filmed there at that time. FWIW, Carl

Tamo - very confusing. Especially when you quote only part of what is on Wikipedia. Wikipedia says: "Mr. K, was a Japanese automotive executive who was employed by Nissan and served as the first president of Nissan Motor Corporation U.S.A” Wikipedia is quite wrong. Mr. K. was the second person to hold the office of President, "Nissan Motor Corporation in U.S.A.” Mr. Takashi Ishihara was the first President of "Nissan Motor Corporation in U.S.A.” Mr. Ishihara’s offices were located in Japan, so Mr. K. was the first President of "Nissan Motor Corporation in U.S.A.” … who was located in the U.S.A. So perhaps it was poorly phrased -“Nissan’s first President in U.S.A." - but for the most part I think the fact that Mr. K was the first person outside of the Nissan Corporate Offices in Japan - to be elevated to that level of authority, President of a wholly own Nissan Subsidiary here in the US is significant.

True - Mr. K. hired the attorney that wrote and filed the paperwork that created the corporation, and was one of three Nissan Employees that signed the Articles of Incorporation for "Nissan Motor Corporation in U.S.A."

82/83 280ZX Turbo's are already changing hands again - in #1/#2 Condition for above $20K. But they still haven't recovered the ground they lost with the 08 Financial Meltdown. Before that they were stingily in the $25K range. #1/#2 Condition examples are ZXT's with less than 15K original miles - completely factory original and Concours Show Ready. Below that level of perfection - really nice weekend pleasure cars, with less than 90K miles, drop down into the $10K range. Prices can go up a bit from there if the mileage comes down - one with less than 40K miles and cared for accordingly might cost $14K etc. So still some pretty nice, well cared for examples out there - although they too are getting harder to find. The people that have them simply keep them, as market prices aren't currently a motivation to sell. Of the 10 cars listed in the article - I personally see the 280ZX-T's as being in a higher class. Maybe the Gen II Supra is there as well. FWIW, Carl B.

If he holds his price - he'll get it. If the car checks out. The pictures are sure encouraging.. I think it will depend a little on how good a job they did on the paint, then the front and fender were repainted. If the whole car need to be repainted.. it would drop the value quite a bit... $32K could easily go down to $25K or less. It is a real shame that had to be resprayed... Carl B.

Interesting discussion. Terms and their meanings seem to vary by use and user. NOS usually means an Old Part that is still unused originated by the original manufacturer. Both shift knobs are from Nissan, one is 16 years old and the other ??. Who knows when Nissan last purchased shift knobs for the 70’s Z’s? I would say that both are actually NOS Parts from Nissan. Reproductions - are made by after market suppliers - to look like the original Nissan Parts. You might have an NOS part from the 70’s - but you could also have an NOS part from the 90’s. I don’t think the manufacturer that puts their part number on the item is really selling “a reproduction”. I think they sometimes refer to them as “Replacement Parts”. Meaning the form, fit and function is the same - even if there are minor cosmetic issues. So maybe - one is NOS and the other is an NOS Replacement Part if you want to more specifically define it. Just a thoughtCarl B.

Check the Facebook page - DuctTape Garage. They had a Group Buy Price of $1650.00... you would save a lot if you can get in on that.. Carl

$1.92.9 per US gallon for Regular - almost everywhere in the Tampa Bay area - $2.43.9 for High Test. Clean Diesel is about the same $245.9 per gallon. Carl B.

EZCarLift - has already thought of you "Purie" - they offer a "drive-over" option. You back the car out - place the lift on the floor and drive over it. Then position the ramps under your pick-up points. When your done - reverse the process, then roll the lift over to a wall and stand it up on end, out of the way. Visit their web site to see all the "options" and "uses". If you have a relatively short job to do - and your driveway is flat/level - you can also easily roll the lift outside to work. A big Plus is that if you move - it is very easy to take with you. Carl B.

I believe that activity was envisioned.. Carl B.

I've had several El Cam's - loved them all. Can't believe he bought that one for that money - it would be at least $4.5K in that condition around here.