Carl Beck

Hi Bonzi Lon: Well you can still make the claim that you have one of the last DATSUN 240-Z's produced. It's just that when we are trying to reconcile the actual production numbers, with the numbers reported - we really need to find that last VIN if possible. Many people check the "NO" box as to having their data Published on the Web Site or not - so not all data points collected are "Published" on the register. Also, the Original Owner's have a different Register that breaks them out - although we consider the Original Owners as part of the over-all Classic Z Car Register. kind regards, Carl

Hi Dimer (everyone): A comment just so we don't run too far afield or add confusion. Most of the talk over the years that I have heard, was about the triple SU's not working "any better" and/or "as well" as the Twin SU set-up. Most people know it will work, as it had been done decades ago by other manufacturers. It would appear that Steve has his set-up working fairly well, and I'm sure he has a lot of fun with it. If he wanted to satisfy our curiosity and/or prove/disprove the triple SU Myth... he'd throw that baby on a dyno - and make a few runs with his engine. First dial in the triple SU's and establish a base line, then switch too a proper (matched to that engine) twin SU set-up, dial it in and do a comparison run. At that point we'd have at least one controlled experiment as a benchmark for the L series engines. Does the Triple SU set-up work "as well" or "any better"? FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Dean Tilton in Glendale, AZ has HLS30 2563... FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http:ZHome.com

Hi Bonzi: Ron Millik in Washington State had HLS30 172715, 08/73 Build Date. Not sure who he sold it too. Stan Musick, one of our Z Car Original Owners has HLS30 171716 in Miami, Florida. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

The main problems are 1) you'd have to have a flat bed to pick it up and you couldn't have it shipped without wheels and tires. 2) no mention of the condition of the most important parts is made.. that being the floorboards and frame rails... FWIW, Carl

Hi Chris: I believe I did read the first Post - carefully and completely. A "long block" is not a complete running engine. A long block does not contain, nor include the many items I ask about. Nor does the term "motor" more fully define what's being offered. Call your local Nissan Dealer (or any source that sells engines) and ask them exactly what you get if you order a "short block" or a "long block". I simply noted that naviathan specifically used the term "long block" as well as qualified it by saying from the Valve Cover to the Oil Pan - and since he seems to be involved in the process of building the engine - I felt that he certainly knew the difference between a long block and a complete running engine; other wise he would have said something to the effect that you get the complete engine along with all hardware necessary to install and run it in your Z. In terms of value - the long block would account for about 35% of the total cost... If they are offering the complete engine as set up, running and raced... the value of the tickets would be much higher as long as the price of the tickets stays the same. Just didn't want there to be any misunderstanding, especially since naviathan wanted to make it abundantly clear.. FWIW, Carl

If it will run a hundred miles with no problems, it will most likely run a thousand with no problems. Nonetheless, I'd take something to cut the heater hoses with, so you can loop them back and by-pass the heater if need be. I'd also take a fuel pump as a spare. Check and or change all the rubber fuel lines... if you haven't already done that. Old hoses and/or the fuel pump going out is about the only thing that's ever put the Z to the roadside If you have Mag's... make sure you have standard lug nuts to mount the spare if needed, and check to see that the spare has air. Drive safe, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

I ordered the Nissan OEM weather strips - only with the Pinch Welt attached. The corner at the "B" pillar is mitered... and about six inches past the point at which the weather stripping turns down at the "A" pillar - there is a splice. Along the threshold - the OEM parts have a couple of half moon cut outs, on the outside edge of the rubber seal..... but no splices. I followed another thread on the door weather-stripping and the use of the term "genuine" left me wondering exactly what that meant... Did your parts come in Nissan packaging? When MSA uses the term "genuine" does that really mean "genuine type".. or does it mean Nissan OEM parts? FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

So you win ONLY the Long Block? What happens to the rest of the engine? Intake,Fuel Injection System, Engine Management System, Turbo, Turbo Exhaust System, Intercoolers, Various sensors and valves, Fan's etc etc etc - will they be available for Sale in case someone wants to buy the entire - complete - set up? thanks, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hello Curtis: If you have HS30 00213, your car would most likely have a build date of 10/70 or 11/70. As it took between two and three months to get cars from the factory to and then into Australia, it would most likely have been inspected at the Port in Australia around 01/71 to 02/71. Let me know what the original engine serial number is, and we might be able to pin the build date down a little farther. The original engine serial number is stamped into the data tag located under the hood - and the engine serial number should be something like L24-17xxx to L24-18xxxx. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

More importantly Bill - did you get Wayne to turn his Sponsors over to you with the car? <vbg> Carl B.

Hi Mike 9 everyone) While at present there is no law that requires drivers to keep right except to pass, obstructing the flow of traffic is not legal in Florida. In the film, all the cars to the left of the far right hand lane could have been ticketed for obstructing traffic, even if they were driving the Posted Speed Limit. The law gives the Highway Patrol certain "criteria" that the drivers would have to meet - such as having more than 20 cars backed up behind them, having every reasonable chance to move right and get out of the way etc... but the law allows the Trooper to use his judgment in such cases and the courts usually stand behind the Troopers. Last year both houses of the Florida Congress passed a bill that required people to keep right except to pass on all limited access highways. The intention was a) to allow the orderly flow of traffic and thus provide the safest environment for all drivers, to reduce the incidences of Road Rage caused by inconsiderate drivers. Our Governor vetoed the bill saying that he didn't think people should be given a ticket for driving the speed limit. FWIW, Carl

Hi Chris: Yes... You could buy either or any as follows.. from 72 forward.. Rear Window Shade Rear Window Shade Kit - (the "kit" came with the Racing Mirrors and was included in the SAP on the Black Pears) Racing Mirrors I was just trying to replace one on my Blue Z today... Carl

Hi Mark: A really good body man "could" straighten that hood.. enough... then fill it with bondo... and for a couple months it might "look" fine, if the fit didn't matter too much ... But you wouldn't want to keep it... Time for a new hood... sorry to see it happen.. Carl B.... Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

I see an update to your Membership Data in 99... but nothing on the cars. This would be a good time to send it again..You can send it directly to me at beck@becksystems.com For Each Car the following must be complete VIN: Build Date: (from the Drivers Door Jam) Original Color: (Ext/Int) and current color if different: Original Engine Serial Number: (from the Data Tag under the hood) Name: City/State e-mail Comments: IZCC Membership #346 Public Register Yes/No?

Hi Guys: Series I - built 10/69 and into early 01/71 Vents on Rear Deck Series II - built 01/71 and into 08/71 Vents moved to side of car Series III - the 1972 Model year Z's.. 08/71 - 08/72 type B tranny, flip forward seats etc Series IV - the 1973 Model year Z's... emissions carbs... 08/72 - 08/73 Dash: Series I and II had the same dash - with no indent for the flasher decal/sticker Series III - indent for flasher decal/sticker & cig. lighter moved to dash Series IV - larger opening for lighted, pull type hazzard warning switch FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hello webteg: When it comes to the strength of the gear box - A or B are about the same actually. The "W" Warner Type Synchro's are brass, shift smoother but wear a little more quickly (80K to 100K miles), the "C" Servo or Porsche Style are steel, shift a little less smoothly but wear a little longer (100K to 120K miles). Nissan Competition recommended the "C" type for competition use. The "B" type transmissions were introduced for the 1972 Model Year 240-Z's and 510's.. which started production around 09/71. The truth of the matter is your major concern should be with the gear ratio's you will need for the tracks you run, more so than the strength of the gear boxes and secondarily with the availability of replacement or repair parts for either gear box. Many of the parts for the "A" box are getting hard to find today - especially the gears themselves. We have a listing of the various gear boxes and the standard ratio's on the Z Car Home Page (scrol down to the transmissions below the rear end listing) see: <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html</a> According to the Nissan Competition Dept.: When installing any of the 5spd. transmissions into the sedans the gearshift lever hole must be moved rearward in the chassis. Also Part Number 11341-N2020 must be used for the rear transmission mount (or the existing mount must be modified). On any of the vehicles, the stock driveshaft must be shortened and re-balanced. The shifter kit Part Number 99996-E3030 must be used on all late style transmissions (Type . The early Roadster style 5spd. can be adapted for use in the 510 - 08111-22210 Bolt 2ea. 11341-21030 Rear Transmission Mount 30401-22010 Bell Housing 30501-22010 Throwout Bearing Sleeve 37000-22010 Drive Shaft for installing transmisson in 510 only == = = = end Nissan pub - - - - - - - - - - It looks like the bottom line is - you are far better off getting the later style "B" transmission, as it comes with the correct Bell Housing and you can easily have your drive shaft shortened and re-balanced. The special shifter kit mentioned above - is really about the shift lever being bent into a more or less "S" shape - you can just bent the straight shifter to suit... See: <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/69-83TrannyShifterDrawing.jpg</a> and See: <a href=http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm</a> For a picture of the Competition Shifter - this will give you an idea of how much the straight shift lever would have to be bent. good luck... Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

As I recall - there was a Z that did 167mph (or something close to that) at the Salt Lake a few years ago. A 280Z 2+2 with a turbo L28.. Newman/Sharp car (IMSA - GTU) was clocked at 156 mph on the back side of Daytona if I remember correctly - (but the turbo Porsches still blew by him out there.. I think the 280ZX 2+2 is the best body for the Salt Lake (of the older cars).. Yes a 200mph Z could be done - for something less than $85K... FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

If you have the installation instructions - can you scan them for me please? thanks, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Web Forms some times get screw up in transmission or sometimes for some reason the just don't transmit at all... You can contact our Membership Chairman directly..via e-mail: "Tony Fruzza" aktar@cosanostra.net thanks, Carl

VIN:HLS30 012746 Production Date:10 / 70 Color Body /Int :919 Yellow/ Black Orig.Eng.Number:L24 16254 Owner:Arne Berglund City/State/Cntry:Springfield, OR IZCC Member#: Comments:A/T converted to 4spd. e-mail:e21graymarket%40comcast.net Date Registered:07 May 06 <a href=http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classic.htm TARGET=NEW>http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/classic.htm</a> first submitted 23 Nov 05 - missing original engine number second submit - 17 Mar. 06 - OK third submit - 07 May 06 - Ok Why the delay between March and May.... da.. I somehow missed it on the update in April...sorry... With over 15,000 members in the IZCC - and about 200 e-mail messages per day (it seems that way anyway).. I do get behind at times and things can drop thru the crack... If they do.. just e-mail and let me know.. no problem FWIW, Carl

That's easy - just buy a couple of them... work on one and drive the other. Two really nice 240-Z's still cost less than a new one... Carl B.

Yes - the original stage play "My Fair Lady" was a musical. As I recall - Mr. Kawamata saw it either on his first visit to the US in 57/58 or his second in 62... Oh...da... I see your point. I was following the original statement about the report that he saw the movie. If the DVD says only "the musical"... it would be technically correct.. as both the original stage play and the movie were called "musicals" Carl

The DVD is wrong... it was the original Stage Play. FWIW, Carl

Hi Alan: Actually Mr. Katayama's speech was delivered to the Nissan Emplyees at Nissan USA HQ - not to the sales staff. It was reported in John B. Rae's book, and was never advertising copy. Nonetheless, your resentment of Mr. K strikes me as misplaced. Just too funny Alan - you crack me up. I'll ask and/or suggest again, as I have many times before - why don't you publish the entire story of the Z Car as you see it. I'm sure we would all find that far more interesting... FWIW, Carl