Carl Beck

I'm sorry - but if you have to ask that - you are most likely beyond any help you could get from this forum. You may need to ask instead for recommendations for local Z Car service shops in your area. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

>Hey folks. I am a fairly new 240Z owner, and I had made a few calls >to local shops in town about the price of a new carb... >and DAMN. >I had no idea these things were so expensive! >I was quoted $500-600 for the su carbs...and $1200 for the Weber carbs! I guess you haven't bought many new carb.'s lately ;-) The $500.00 to $600.00 price SHOULD BE for remanufactured SU's.. not "NEW". As Carl S mentioned.. you can get them from ZTherapy. BRAND NEW OEM SU's were around $2,200.00 when last listed by Nissan. >Is this accurate? Or are they just jerking my chain? Depend on what specifically they are quoting.. there is a large difference between being "rebuilt" with a rebuild kit - and being "re-manufactured" by Z Therapy. Again as Carl S mentioned... the throttle shafts are re-bushed, the aluminum castings are bead blasted, the throttle hardware is replaced etc etc on "re-manufactured SU"... not so on a rebuild kit. Get specifics.. on anything your thinking of buying.. >If it is correct...do any of you know how I can get a used or reconditioned carb for less >than that? Used - your buying a pig in a poke... might be good and they might be as bad as what you have. In general - used SU's are in the $150.00 to $175.00 range. Every once-in-awhile you'll see a nearly new set of re-manufactured SU's from Z Therapy on ebay.. I wouldn't recommend the Webers for a 240-Z in any case... Maybe we should back-up and ask - as a new 240Z owner, what makes you think the carb's are "bad" to begin with? Could be some other problem, could be all they need is cleaning and adjusting... Z Therapy sells a video that shows you how to clean, rebuild and adjust the SU's - - - maybe that's the best place to start... FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

"Electric Choke"... what carb's do have?

Hi TomoHawk: I believe that if you go take the access panel off, you will see that the screws holding it on - do in fact screw into Part #96708-30700 Grommet-Screw. The plastic finisher panel is way to thin to hold a screw in place without the use of a "lag" or screw clip, in this case called a "Grommet-Screw". In many cars you see this type of plastic lag used for example to hold the license plate screws.. If these grommets aren't present in your rear finisher panel.. you must have either very FAT screws or some other arrangement rigged up, because when they are missing the holes they fit into are pretty large opening to screw anything else into. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

HI Guys: I think I'm following this thread, and I think every thing is clear, but because mention was made of the tail light access panels... and "clips"... 1. The Black Rivets go in the tail gate vinyl finisher 2. The access panels - that allow access to the tail lights/bulbs are held in place by small screws - that screw into the "clips" placed on the rear plastic panel (that runs across the back of the car) that has the openings to allow access to the tail lights. There should be four little clips that hold the screws in each access hole... Just wanted to make sure you were saying that there were now "clips" in the tail gate... If that's the case... Carl S has it right.. BTW - before you put the tail gate vinyl finisher in place - make sure all the holes in the metal tail gate are as open as they should be. Sometimes paint or gue closes them down a little - then you can not push the "poles" all the way in because the holes are too tight. (bummer). Also note that the vinyl panel does have a top/bottom relationship - it won't fit/line up -when it's upside down ;-) FWIW, Carl B. Clearwater, FL USA

Hi grnskyline: Sills... humm.. That's what we call the "dog leg". See: http://zhome.com/Classic/CommonZRust/RustPrevention240Z.htm Once you cut the old dog leg out of the way - you can treat any additional rust with some type of rust killer - then spray some paint in there. Here in the US you can buy ready made replacements (patch panels) for about $38.00 each. Then the old metal is cut out and the new patch panels are welded in. See http://www.rustrepair.com/ and/or http://www.rustrepair.com/app2/onlinecat.htm?p=sm-DATSUN Tabo/Mill Supply makes them and many people sell them. Past that point - the inner-fender is involved right at the rear of the dogleg and a small metal patch can be fabricated -- or you can buy the patch panels for that too.. then cut off what you need and weld them in.. I had mine done and it took about 4 hours of labor with an experienced metal man in the body shop doing the cutting, welding, grinding.. for each side. That included the time to clean out the panels behind the dog-leg and treat them with a rust killer (POR-15).. So about $195.00 per side US (at $40 per hour shop time). (that about 263.00 Australian Dollars) FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi deadflo: The guy at Motorsports was correct. The tail gate vinyl finisher is held by the same type plastic rivets that were used everywhere else in the interior. It's not uncommon for previous owners to substitute sheetmetal screws, as used in many US cars for the missing rivets. Having dealt with the use of both screws and the plastic rivets in cars over the past 40 years, I can assure you that in the case of the rear tail gate vinyl finisher --the rivets are far better for that application. The reason is that every time you, or someone else, slams the tail gate shut - the rivets will allow the finisher to flex with the impact, without working the rivets out. Screws used in applications like that (on door panels for example) will over time work themselves loose, and then the continual impacts will strip them or the hole out. The plastic rivets are a pain to deal with if you have to remove and reinstall the panels - but they are a better way of fastening the trim to the car body. That (impact and flex) is also why the door panels are mounted using spring clips instead of screws. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com beck@becksystems.com

Hi John: Over my lifetime, I've live in several States.. Depending on where your company wants to move you, Florida has much to offer. No matter where you live there are of course trade-off's to be made. Nothing is perfect. I will say that all things considered - this has been a pretty good place to be. Come on down - we need more Z Car people here. regards, Carl

Hi Brandon (everyone): I agree - as I said, I've lived here for over 30 years now - never saw an alligator that big and I should have said "in the wild". I don't know if you or anyone has been on I-4 West of Orlando/Disney World lately... but there is a lot of new highway construction going on there for miles. The State seems to be putting in another six or so lanes, parallel with and about 1/2 mile to the North of the present highway. That was mostly open wetlands /swamp /Cyprus stands through that area. I would guess that many "creatures" are being driven out of their home turf. Maybe the State Highway Dept. should put up some temporary WARNING signs about "Native Floridians Crossing" along with all the "CONSTRUCTION" signs. The 240-Z itself is about 5.5 foot wide - when the alligators nose was even with the left side of the Z, his rear legs were about a foot or two to the right of the right side of the Z - much of his tail was still behind the car next to me. My home office is about 12 ft. wide and I'm not so sure he would fit in this space. I have seen gators crossing the highway along Alligator Alley, although they are usually much smaller. Over the years the State has put tunnels under that roadway to keep them off the road. I had a camera in the car... just was too shook-up to think fast enough to grab it.. If I had realized how rare it was I might have thought a little faster. Would have been a good photo to sell the local News-otain-ment people. (we don't have any real "NEWS" broadcasts anymore - now it's all entertainment for fun and commercial profit). It always seems to make the Front Page when someone around here discovers an alligator under their car or in their garage!. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Gang: I had the pleasure of attending the Second Annual Zfest in Orlando, Florida this past Saturday. Hosted by the South Florida Z Car Club. I believe that they had just over a hundred Z's registered/paid for the Show & Shine and to my count there were at least another 50 cars in the surrounding parking lot. Plus a ground of G-35's. Event registration and show entry fees were very reasonable, everyone I meet was happy to be there and glad someone at last has provided a central gathering place to draw both North and South Florida cars. With this size turnout, if they keep it growing year after year, this very well could be a foundation for a really great Annual Event here in the South Eastern US. The event couldn't have been held on a better day here in Florida. The weather was nearly perfect. So perfect in fact that I didn't realize how long I had been out in our Florida sun... So my face was quite red by the time I got home!! Yeiks!! I'm sure that they will be posting some pictures from the event on their web site at: http://www.sfzcc.com/ Speaking of coming home... Interstate 4 runs South West from Orlando to the Tampa Bay area. I-4 is usually fairly heavily traveled this time of year. (well actually all the time now). So I was in a group of cars running along about 75 to 85 mph when all of a sudden about ten cars ahead I see massive PANIC STOPPING... Brake lights lit up and rear-ends sticking high in the air... blue smoke coming off tires! I too hit the binders.. while watching my rear-view mirror I see a Ford Pickup gaining on my rear bumper.. he isn't stopping as quickly and he hadn't allowed the room in front of him, that I allowed in front of me... Damn.. I just got this car back together... I'm in the FAST lane of course (far Left Lane here in the Orlando area)... so with a large medium between opposing lanes, I'm looking for an escape route.. while trying to rub off as much speed as possible... while trying to stay ahead of the now ever larger truck in my rear-view mirror... Damn.. I just got this car back together!! Three or four cars ahead of me - I see others taking the same escape route, so now my angle of attack on the wet slippery grass, on the soft and down hill medium is getting ever steeper and ever more tricky.. I leave the road at about 40 mph as the Truck slams into the rear of the car that was ahead of me!! ...Damn.. I just got this car back together!! This all happens in about two tenth of a second... but it seems to be in slow motion...(everyone that's been in an accident knows what I mean). I finally come slipping, twisting and sliding to rest at the right side of the now third car stacked up side by side in the medium.....Thank God, made it without getting hit nor hitting anyone...Kind of like sliding Home Safe.... ahhhh... I look about five feet in front of the car to my right - and this HUGE Alligator walks by... with a slight **** of his massive head, he looks at the car to my right, then to my car.. and proceeds on his way toward the swamp at the bottom of the medium... Now I know what caused the panic stopping, the accidents and now my Z sunk into the soft ground... I've lived here for over 30 years - never have I seen a Alligator that BIG.. You know how they kind of push themselves up off the ground when they walk.. Well his head was just above the nose of my Z as he glanced at me while walking by. I wasn't about to get out and chase him out of the medium!! He had to be 12 foot or more head to tail. The car to my right was STUCK in the mud and I could hear his tires spinning.. the car to his right was still high enough on the incline to be on firmer ground, so he was able to back out and get back up to the shoulder of the road. I put the Z in reverse, eased the clutch out... and the Z backed out of there with the grace of an Alligator ;-).... I stopped along with the first and second cars that went off road - but the guy in the third car was now out of his car with a cell phone.. calling a tow truck. His rear tires buried past the axle as he tried to spin his way out.. Once underway again I was about a mile from a Rest Area.. so I pulled in to check the 240-Z for any damage, and to let my now shaking hands, arms and legs shed the few ounces of the adrenalin that had been pumped into them. No damage to the Z - just a bit of mud and grass collected.. Fun Day and an EXCITING TRIP to end it ;-) FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://Home.com

Hi Stryder: 1. Thank you for Posting this link. 2. I have added this link to the Home Page at ZHome.com. Everyone in America and in all Countries should watch it often - least the current political trash-talk or the passing of time cloud our memory . good for you.. Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL http://ZHome.com http://www.gunstuff.com/america-attacked.html

Hi Nick: Sorry to say that I have never worked with the SR20's in any configuration so I really don't know much about them. One Z owner in Tampa has an SR20DET installed in his 240Z and I will say it makes quite a neat package. Sits will behind the front axles, saves weight and certainly is capable of high HP output. In talking to the shop owner I understand that the owner of the car has something over $8,500.00 in the installation so far. (complete engine rebuild, plus custom installation, inter-cooler, new turbo, new engine management system, etc. etc etc.). The shop owner thinks they are close to 300 RWHP... but we haven't seen any actual dyno runs yet. The main disadvantage to the RB's and as far as I know the SR's is that they are Japanese market engines, with a few exported to countries other than the US. So parts availability might be a bit of a hassle should you need something unique to those engines. Likewise finding and buying one that's in decent shape to begin with might be risky. That's one big advantage of the L28 Turbo's here in the US (you know you'll be able to get any parts you need easily and quickly). You can build an L28 Turbo that will put 250/275 HP to the rear wheels, have easy access to any parts you need and most likely spend a bit less doing it. (the L28 Turbo's are still easy to find for less than a grand in pretty good running condition). Of course the I-6 still has the advantage of better harmonic balance to start with. Here too we know these engines will run way over 300,000 miles without major problems. One advantage that I saw with the SR20DET in the first generation Z, was the amount of room you had ahead of the engine and behind the radiator core support - easy to run the inter-cooler plumbing and electric fans!! As far as modification go - I don't seen any "moral" difference between using an L28ET, the SR20DET or a Chevy Small Block... whatever you want and whatever you are willing to spend your money on. In all cases I prefer to see 280Z's used however ;-) They have stronger unibodies, all ready have gas tanks set up for Fuel Injection, and came with the R200 rear ends... if your going to gain all that extra HP a few extra pounds on the unibody won't matter much anyway. <VBG> FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA 69, 71, 72, 72 & 73 BRE-Z 83 280ZX Turbo

Hi Stephen: No fights - but I'd say: that one is comparing an engine designed for competition with an engine designed for production. There really isn't a whole lot new in engine design - so much as there are new materials, new engine management systems being applied. What's "modern" about the VQ is production effieiencies by design.. and emissions standards - both of which have driven total engine efficiencies to new levels. (both more HP per cid and better fuel economy). As for the basic layout, materials and head design - the RB of yesterday looks a whole lot like the M series BMW I6's of today. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "stable". An in--line six has naturally better harmonic balance - due to the firing order and more consistent application of torque strokes to the crank. Any given engine has been designed with specific design criteria driving the design. The VQ35 is a production engine, driven by cost per unit, as well as any performance criteria established for it - and all that - traded-off with meeting modern emissions standards. So combustion chamber design is based on emissions - as much or more than performance. The RB series engines have a lot of years of racing development behind them and are pretty well sorted out - you are correct in saying that that VQ's have a lot of years of development and de-bugging ahead. The RB series (design dating back to the early 60's) were "Racing Built" and one of the most expensive limited production engines Nissan (aka Prince Motors) ever produced. (the RB plant was one of the first one's shut down by Carlos as his cost cutting took over Nissan Japan). The RB's are capable of prolonged rev's over 14,000 RPM - the V series engines self destruct above 10,000 RPM (natural balance limits, less expensive construction, far less strong blocks are a very real limiting factor). Likewise the amount of boost either engine will endure. From a "Customers" perspective - the RB engines are far superior to anything Nissan currently offers. From "Nissan's" perspective the VQ is just the ticket... I guess "which is best" depends on what you want to use the engine for. If you are talking about durability, performance and/or Customer Value - the RB's were far ahead by design - of any of the Nissan V6's. If your talking about cutting costs, meeting emissions standards and still providing reasonable performance for at least the warranty period.. the VQ's are a wonderful design and a big improvement to the VG's in the Z31's and Z32's (rubber belts vs chain driven cam's). The V6 also offers far more "styling" flexibility for use across multiple platforms (with allow for mass production efficiencies for Nissan, fewer spare parts for the dealers to stock, less training for the service tech.'s - all of which save Nissan and their Dealers money. In turn that should save the customers money as well - so the VQ is certainly a cheaper solution). Lots of things to consider about the design of any engine... As for me, I'd take the RB series engines any day over any of the V6's. I'd take the L series in-line six's any day over any of the V6's as well. The RB and L series are simply better engines from a Customer's perspective, even when you throw in the cost trade-off's. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA

HLS30.com wrote: >Carl, I agree with everything you said, but what makes you feel that way. Books have been written in an attempt to answer that question.;-) What we are really trying to get to here is the subject and study of Esthetics and in turn the effect of esthetics on our emotions. What makes anything "beautiful" to the human eye, to the human ear? Symmetry , order, continuity, flow, balance. We are attracted to beauty because we feel comfortable with it. We describe things that we see or hear using the term "beautiful". We don't "normally" use the term beautiful for things that we taste, smell or feel (although there are times we might). The theory is that because we acquire most information from our environment in the form of sine waves - we are most comfortable with elements in our environment that comply to the same form. We "see" because we receive visible light in the form of sine waves. We "hear" because we receive sound in the form of sine waves. We breath rhythmically.. our heart beats rhythmically What is the opposite? Conflict, disorder, discord.... If you draw a single line to express symmetry, order, continuity, flow, balance.. that single line would be a sine wave. To men - in general terms again - the form and lines of the female body represent symmetry, order, continuity, flow and balance. In "Classic Cars" it's that same form and lines, that same symmetry, order, continuity, flow and balance.. Most people instinctively recognize beauty.. very few can create it. Beauty is indeed in the eye of the beholder - but only a few exceptional people are gifted with the ability to move it from their conceptual minds into a physical form of some kind. That's why Chris is an Architect... and I had to settle for being an Engineer ;-( So why do we love that 240-Z? It's the female form and that is pure sex man!! If God made anything better- he kept it for himself! ;-) FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Guys: First and foremost the definition of any term is based on the best evidence, and in this case the best evidence is the definition that comes directly from the dictionary. Classic: {F or L; F classique. fr. L classicus, of the highest class of Roman citizens, of the first rank} 1. a: of recognized value : serving as a standard of excellence, b: Traditional and Enduring, c: characterized by simple tailored lines in fashion year after year. Classic: n a work of enduring excellence OK - so who is the Authority that awards the term "Classic" or "Modern Classic" to any specific vehicle? The answer to that question today is "no one" /"there is no specific list or source". The Classic Car Club of America defines cars built between 1925 and 1948 as "Full Classic". So as to not put that Model T in the same class of Classic Cars as say the 1957 Pontiac Bonneville or 1955 Ford Thunderbird etc. It is also generally agreed that a car should be considered to be a "Milestone Car" before being recognized as a "Classic" or "Modern Classic". In the 50's and 60's the definition of a Milestone Car was something closer to "a car that sets new standards in the publics perception and thus raises the public's expectations of Automotive Design and Engineering. (Since 1971 The Milestone Car Society of California has used slightly different definitions) Today most knowledgeable automotive writers and historians acknowledge that the Datsun 240-Z is indeed a Milestone Car, and that it is one of the ten most important automobiles in US Automotive History. The "Father of the Z Car" - Yutaka Katayama was inducted into the Automotive Hall of Fame in 1998 in large measure because of his shepherding of the Datsun 240-Z, from requirements definition, to design, to production and then to sales in the US. The Datsun 240-Z is a Classic because 35 years after its inception - it is still recognized as being of timeless beauty. It's a Milestone Car because it changed the perception of the buying public toward Japanese Automobiles. The bottom line is: The Datsun 240-Z is a "Classic" because it is proven to be of timeless beauty. If you were seeing the Datsun 240-Z for the first time today - you would think it had just left the design studio... FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Everyone: I should have noted in all my replies - my comments apply to North American HLS30 series cars only. I also wanted to tell/remind everyone that I maintain a listing of VIN's for the 240-Z's. If you haven't done so already, you can contribute to our knowledge base by sending me the VIN, Build Date and Original Engine Serial Number for your 240-Z. We need all three data points to make useful information out of it. The Date of Manufacture is on the drivers door jam data tag, the Original Engine Serial Number is on the data tag under the hood, screwed to the passenger's side shock tower. E-mail it to me at beck@becksystems.com thanks, Carl B. Carl Beck http://ZHome.com

Hi Zs-ondabrain: Just a point of clarification - I believe that you have slightly misinterpreted Mr. Humble's statement. There is a difference between the number of cars "produced" and the number of cars "registered". I do not know where Mr. Humble got his registration numbers. I do know that they add up to a total of 135,803 240-Z's. The "Production" number is closer to 153,000. From Oct 1969 through Jan 15,1971 - Nissan produced about 18,000 Series I cars (our highest recorded VIN is 17,827 at present). That's about twice the number "registered". They produced aprox. 25,500 units of the Series II cars (highest VIN is 43496) 71 Model They produced aprox. 54,000 units of the Series III cars (highest VIN is 100155) 72 Model They produced aprox. 53,000 units of the Series IV cars (highest VIN is 172767) 73 Model Year. Because Nissan left gaps in the Serial Numbers between the end of one Series and the beginning of the next Series... you have to subtract out the numbers in the gap's to get the actual production numbers. For example the VIN's stopped at 100155 for the Series III cars - the started again at 120001 for the Series IV cars - ie a gap of 20,000 units. regards, Carl B. Carl Beck http://ZHome.com

Hi 2ManyZ's: I would say that the VIN shows "the Model Information" and the "Chassis Serial Number". (just to be a little more clear) The VIN also shows the Engine installed also. HS30 or HLS30 has the 2.4L engine and is thus a "240-Z" S30, S30S etc has no "H" so it had the 2.0L engine and was therefore a "Fairlady Z" There was no need for a "fender tag" - as there were no options on the 240-Z except for the A/T. FWIW, Carl B Carl Beck http://ZHome.com

Hi sahunt66 The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is comprised of two main parts. HLS30 Gives you the "model information" 07736 Is the Chassis Serial Number H = 2.4L engine L = Left Hand Drive S30 = body type ie the Sport Coupe that is the Z body As someone else mentioned - 7736 is the chassis serial number meaning it was the 7736th Left Hand Drive chassis produced. I believe that my article which you were referred to explains how the Series I cars were titled. regards, Carl B Carl Beck http://ZHome.com

Hi Kats: The cap with the chain was OEM for the US Spec. 240-Z's. The rubber pad was there so the cap wouldn't scratch the paint as it hung on the chain. kind regards, Carl

Hi Guys: The picture I have can be seen at: http://ZHome.com/History/240ZSplashPan1.jpg At least on my monitor the color is pretty close to the actual item - of course your monitors might display it differently... regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Kats: Your Nov. 69 Parts List will also "show" a front and rear spoiler for the 240-Z - but we never got them either - here in the US. Does it "show" the rear anti-sway bar? (we didn't get that either). Lots of stuff in the Parts Catalog that did not come as "standard" equipment on the US 240-Z's. Nor did we ever get the 5.5 inch wide Road Wheels, even though they were approved for sale here and listed in the original Z Sales Brochures as "optional". (SCCA still won't allow them) I don't think there is any question that these items "existed" in 69, the original question, from Virginia was if anyone knew the original color and texture of the splash pan. The original color of the splash pan's - on the very few US cars that did come from the factory - with the splash pan's installed - that I have ever seen were all the very light gray. Every one that we ordered over the parts counter between 1971 and 1973 came into the Dealership in the same light gray. If someone ordered one five or six years ago - it very well could have been repainted in Nissan's inventory over the years. I've received many old body parts over the recent years that were indeed repainted in black. The picture of the Z432 - that picture is too dark to tell much of anything and that splash pan isn't shaped the same as the one's for the 240-Z - Is it??? It looks like it loops out wider on the sides - than the one drawn in the parts catalog and the one I have here. I'd guess that the original question was ask - because someone is trying to restore a 240-Z to ConCours standards. (Yes/No? - if No it wouldn't matter if it was "correct" or not - would it?) If I were a ConCours Judge - I'd still be looking for proof that any 70-73 240-Z was imported into the US with a "black" splash pan. Untill I saw that proof - light gray would be the color that scored the points for originality and then only on a very early 1970 240-Z. Right or wrong - the rules have to be documented and enforced until proven wrong and changed. Anyone have any Nissan/Datsun issued pictures of a 1970 US 240-Z with a black splash pan installed? How about pictures of a light gray one? FWIW, Carl

Hi Guys: I've been driving these cars since May of 1970. Worked at a Datsun Dealership from 71-73. Sold a ton of new Z Cars ;-) I'll have to agree with Joseph on this one. I've never seen a splash pan for the 240-Z's come from the factory either on the car or over the parts counter - painted black. Not saying it couldn't happen, just saying that if they were painted black - it would have had to have been many, many years after they were produced. I agree with Allen - many of the NOS parts in the warehouse have most likely been repainted over the years to prevent corrosion. For example I have three brand new rear quarter panels - two are painted gray and one is painted black. I say "Painted" because primers will not prevent rust - metal parts left in prime will rust because primers are porous (epoxy based primers are not as porous and will prevent rust for a longer period). Normally the factory just "dusts" on a very light coat of paint on. I can tell you that I ordered the splash pan for my 72 Z along with a radiator fan shroud over the Parts Counter in 72. The splash pan looked like plain sheet metal to me - but I agree with "Z Kid" - they must have had some other coating applied - nonetheless they don't rust just sitting on the shelf - so they are not truly plain "untreated" sheet steel. Most of them do rust after 20+ years mounted under the car and driven over the road. So it's now 12:44 AM here - and I'm on my way out to the garage. I know I have at least one brand new splash pan (I'll hope the part number sticker is still on it) and at least two that I've taken off my cars........ 1:36AM - - -Eureka!... I've found it! ;-). Part Number 74810-E4100 "Splash-board engine lower" (sticker still on it) When I get some daylight - I'll try to get a good picture of it. On close inspection - this one looks like it's been painted with a very light gray paint. ("Silver" would have a more chrome/metallic look - this one is a very flat finish - so I'll call it a very light gray). In the places that the light gray paint has been scratch - the metal underneath isn't rusting - and looks almost shinny compared to the paint - so I'd have to say that it was coated with something soon after it was stamped; and I'd have to guess a phosphate might be correct. The splash guard was not standard equipment on the US cars until late 73 - although a few very early cars (1970) did come through with them installed. (somewhat like the hand throttles - a few did come into the US on a few early cars). I'll post the picture when I get some daylight.. FWIW, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com

Hi Guys: I've put some pictures up on the Z Car Home Page. See: http://ZHome.com/History/CargoCover.htm Just so we don't get confused with terms. There were Nissan Factory Authorized "Accessory Items" sold over the Datsun Parts Counter. In many cases the Dealers added these items to the 240-Z's before the Z's were sold to the public. All Nissan Factory Authorized "Accessory Items" were covered by the Factory Warranty and all had an official Datsun Part Number. Most often they were re-boxed or repackaged from the original equipment supplier and were sold in either "DATSUN" or "NISSAN" boxes. (not always but most of the time). Then there were accessories that many OTHER after-market manufacturers sold. The Cargo Area Cover is one of these. At least through 1973 Datsun didn't offer this as a Factory Authorized Accessory Item. I had the installation instructions for this cargo area cover for years and years and years - now that I've tried to find it - I can't. If I run across it I'll Post it later. Hope this helps, regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater,FL USA http://ZHome.com