Carl Beck

Great Job Jim - thanks for sharing it with us. Carl B.

I wouldn't worry about the difference between $2500.00 and $2995.00 - What I would be concerned with - is the actual condition of the car. If it has a really good, original, solid body - with all components present - - if the wiring harnesses haven't been hacked up - if the front frame rails are solid - if there is no rust holes under the battery etc. etc. … $$3K would be a bargain today. Plus that is a great color.. FWIW, Carl B.

Sounds like a great ZX - it should give you years and years of pleasure. That is the way to buy them... Carl B.

I am actually ill. Carl B.

We might hope that it will be put on their Web Site - at some point in the future. I have no idea how to get that channel on our cable network.. I sure don't get it now.. the owner of 89 was last reported to be in OR. Carl B.

Other than having it listed - it has passed though at least 3 previous owners over the years. Late owner was listed in Syc. N.Y. It would take a lot to haul all that off.. Original engine was reported as L24-02211.. 11/69 build date.. FWIW, Carl B.

So - "Kobe Beef" wants more information about Richie and Eiji. Sorry, but that just struck me as funny… I do agree - that Richie should have been introducing himself - as lots of us know Eiji. Some of the information suggested should be found on their Web Site. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi George - always good to hear that there are honest people out there selling they cars. If you don't mind sharing - what is the VIN on that Z? {I try to keep track of how many are still in existence. To tell you the truth - that looks like a very nice Z for $4,800.00 - even with the minor acid/rust problems mentioned. In a very shot time I doubt we'll be able to find any 240Z in that condition for less then $10K. Hope you enjoy it FWIW, Carl B.

What is the VIN on the car? Looks like a 1972 to me.. Any pictures of the Dash/Center console? Is it an A/T car?

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3810&utm_souce=Google&utm_medium=CSE&utm_term=29709&utm_campaign=CSE&gdftrk=gdfV25409_a_7c2692_a_7c10048_a_7c29709&gclid=CMf2n8PkkcACFcZQ7AodoH4AsQ http://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-56-1710 You should get the 4.5" tall air cleaners - so you can run the air horns on the crab's.

Watching the Youtube video linked below - near the end you can see a couple of Mr. Matsuo's original drawings - lead pencil drawing is shown the middle of the three.. That was drawn using a Fairlady Z432 as the base. Jay's video shows the time and amount of work that went into this project: FWIW, Carl B.

I talked to Les a couple weeks ago - be aware that if you need Red Seat Upholstery - at present they do NOT come with the correct original Silver or Nickel color air vents. Some were made with brass colored air vents and it seems now the air vents are smaller than OEM. For many this wouldn't matter that much - but if you are going for Show or Concours correct restoration…it can be a problem. If you are very lucky you can take the original seat air vents out of your original upholstery - and put them in the new covers… FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Like: Once you start to drive a Datsun 240Z - you are hooked for life. Nothing else is quite the same, nor quite as much fun. They are a great Sports/GT - as I am sure you will realize. I helped a friend in Germany find/buy his first Datsun 240Z and I'm always on the look out for others here. So I know how hard to find they are there. Really good one's are becoming very hard to find. So I think you have made a very good purchase. We'll be looking forward to seeing some pictures and hearing more about your 240Z. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris; That is one of the earlier drawings. We would have to find a clear copy of the original to see if Mr. Matsuo's initials or signature are on it. Mr. Matsuo brought his original hand sketched {Lead Pencil} drawing to the Convention at Nashville. In that drawing, the rear quarter window extend to the last pilar - and the rear door slopped down from the roof - very much like the CinderZ. All within the more-or-less stock rear quarters. Not so boxy in the rear as show in the color drawing. The color drawing looks like an attempt to extend the cargo area a bit more. FWIW, Carl B.

Not everyone "needs" performance tires. Good "S" or "H" speed rated tires will do just fine for most street driven 240Z's - and there are still enough of them out there in the sizes needed for a 5.5" wide wheel. Libres just look so period correct on a 240Z… I paid something like $24.95 each for mine. I bought them new from BRE in 1972. I bought a nearly new set around 1995 and paid $400.00 for them. Libres - the only way to go!! Carl B.

The exception here is - pop-up pistons. If you are running them - you MUST index the plugs. You don't want the piston peaks smashing the spark plug gap closed. FWIW, Carl B.

That is an interesting interpretation with a slightly more modern Twist. Also looks like the work was done with a lot of care. I think the original CinderZ was much closer to Mr. Matsuo's concept. FWIW, Carl B.

If it is fiberglass - it should be easy to grind it off. Carl B.

Dale - that 71 in Pensacola sold quickly - as it should have at $7K. Seller said that the dash was great - if it was - crack free and damage free - the Dash was worth $2K. Good to know about Z met - but 6:30 puts you in the middle of rust hour traffic… how long do they plan to be there? Carl B.

Most Vintage Air Dealers - are Custom Car / Hot Rod Shops. They install these systems all the time. I would recommend talking to them before you do anything. I installed a Vintage Air System in my 72 Z. Installed the Compressor with the 280Z Compressor mount. Installed the Evap. Unit in place of the original heater. Bolted the Condenser in place. Then had the local Hot Rod Shop make the necessary R134 lines between the components. They had the lines made up and everything hooked up in about 4 hours. The Vintage Air Gen II Super Cooler easily fit in place - once I took the original heater control levers and radio out - I could reach almost everything necessary thru there. Very unlike the original Dealer Installed Systems that sucked air though the heater system - the Vintage Air System blow air over the evaporator and puts out about 2 to 3 times the volume of cold air. However - none of the systems equal the A/C found in modern cars. On hot days - if you are going to drive for 15 minutes+ the Vintage Air system will cool the car - but the cold air circulation in the 240Z is very limited. The cold air comes out of the dash - and gets sucked back into the return right under the dash. That huge Greenhouse behind the seats - stays hot for a long time. The cold air only gets sucked back there slowly - as the fresh air vents let the hot air out. Plus the 240Z's leak air around the doors/windows, have a lot of glass area and poor heat insulation… So if the car sits outside in the Sun for more than an hour or two - it takes a longer trip to cool the car back down. I see today that Vintage Air actually sells "trunk mounted units". Putting the evaporator unit behind the seats and blowing cold air forward might actually cool the car faster.. That or use two evaporator units, one under the dash and another in the rear deck. In the end - I just bought a more modern sports car - to use in the Florida Summers. One with great A/C from the factory. I drive the 240Z the other 8 or 9 months of the year without A/C. FWIW, Carl B

All of this would concern me: Missing all Emblems Painted bumpers Dash Cap Door panels are rough.. Diamond Vinyl covered up on trans. tunnel Seats look pretty beat up Choke Knob missing Tail light finisher screwed on Nasty looking rear deck area Floorboards poorly pitched Spare Tire Well pitted/rust damage Blacked out under the hood - poor color change perhaps All of the above just shout "cheap" and "half fast" - shinny paint to flip a rat. For $5500.00 - it might be a fun street car if cosmetics don't bother you. On the other hand you might just be buying a problem. For my first Z Car - I'd keep looking… FWIW, Carl B.

It is likely that the original spacers are still there. I've only seen a few of them that were broken or falling out on disassembly. Had to pry most of the old one's out - before replacing them. FWIW, Carl B.

I think everyone knows how hard - if not impossible - it is to get the Air Injection Tubes out of the exhaust manifold - without cutting them off etc. I soaked the flair nuts down with Kroil - for a couple days - then applied some heat - locked the Irwin Vise-Grips on the flair nuts and smacked it with a heavy brass hammer - broke every one of them lose - with out rounding them off in the process. Someone else recommended them here on the forum a few years ago - so thanks to them! Carl B.

IMHO - anyone working on these old cars - should have a supply of Kroil Penetrating Oil in their garage. While ATF/Acetone may indeed work a bit better - I don't like the thought of using Acetone on anything. Kano Lab's Kroil is without question the best available Penetrating Oil that you can buy. That and it actually smells pleasant, while it won't destroy any painted surfaces. Yes, it is a bit expensive when you have to pay shipping costs - Nonetheless if you use it, you'll not likely ever go back to anything else. It works wonders - far better than the stuff you buy at the AutoParts Stores. Kroil - Aero-Kroil is the aerosol can. Try it "Risk Free" - with their current Buy One of anything - Get One Free. Two Can's will last the average person a year to two. https://www.kanolabs.com/orders/order_kroil.shtml FWIW, Carl B.

Speaking of Brake Lines and the old flair nuts on them. . . .It is time to recommend getting a set of IRWIN Vice Grips, which have a great head for holding Flair Nuts without rounding them off. These come in different lengths - you need the smaller sizes for brake line work. Irwin Vise-Grip Locking Wrench — 7in., Model# 04 | Locking Pliers| Northern Tool + Equipment FWIW, Carl B.