Carl Beck

Great job Jim - I enjoyed watching it.. Carl B.

No... it looks like they copied the Mustang article by mistake there.

Hi Brian: Great progress - that is the only way to go about it - do it right the first time and you won't have any regrets later. Keep the progress pictures coming - Carl B.

Looks like you started with a pretty clean Z to begin with - and for a 240Z it had very little rust. Great project - keep at it - and be sure to enjoy the process. Once it is done, a lot of the fun will be over.. but you'll have a great Z to drive and enjoy. Keep us Posted on the progress.. Carl B.

You have time - I'd keep looking. On the budget you set - it will be hard find any 240Z that is going to be reliable. Better to stay with an all stock example - as that will reduce the number of variables you would have to trouble shoot when something does go wrong. This one has has an incomplete color change, bumpers blacked out instead of rechromed and aftermarket carb's - to me - that all says "modified on a budget"... as opposed to making the most desirable mod's. - - but that's just my opinion.. Don't get in a hurry - go look at least 15 cars over before you buy anything.. It is very easy to buy a car - but it can be a real hassle to try to resell one your not happy with. FWIW, Carl B.

I always thought that "DIP" stood for - Dual Inline Packages. Carl B.

Some very sad news: It has been reported that Mr. Nanba, 1st President of NISMO and Nissan Rally Manager - Passed Away in Japan yesterday. Still waiting on more details. FWIW Carl B.

Yes - Go Air Force! Good for him... After sitting for for so long - after undergoing a complete repaint, with everything blacked out under the hood - really impossible to tell. Nonetheless - I would expect a 39,000 mile engine to be in far better shape over-all - at least cosmetically. I certainly hope that you are right. However, many times the undercoating covers up rust that forms under it. You'll have a much better idea once you get the car stripped down. Likewise the Tar Mats on the inside of the floors. - lots of times they too cover rusted metal. Well - "unmolested" except for a complete color change, blacked out under the hood etc. Looking at the over-all condition - looking at the condition of the engine compartment - I would guess it has a lot more than 40K miles on it. Very hard to tell what the condition really is under that repaint. You didn't say if you could drive it before you bought it - but if it was in non-running condition - but with a fairly straight body.. $4.5K to $5.5K wouldn't be too bad a price to pay in Mich. A bit more if you were able to start and drive it 25 miles or so.. Nonetheless - it looks like it would be a good start on a Project. Keep us posted on your progress.. FWIW, Carl B.

No - you are thinking clearly. Sell the 280Z and find a great 240Z. If you "think" you'll have regrets now - you will for sure have them later. If 50 years of car buying has taught me nothing else - it has taught me that. The DATSUN 240Z is THE car that changed the Sports Car world overnight. It is a significant part of U.S. Auto history - as it opened the doors in America - wide to the acceptance of Japanese Cars as being World Class. {not to mention changing Japanese Auto History}. The 280Z will never have that distinction. That is also one of the main reason the 240Z are so Collectible - They are a Milestone Car and now most certainly a true Classic. The only reason to "restore" or "refresh" one today - is because you love the process of doing it yourself. To love that process and devote the necessary time and money - you for sure want to start with a car you love - not one you settled for. Shop, shop and shop some more - buy the cleanest, lowest milage, best cared for example you can find - no matter where it is - pay the money up front - it is always far less expensive in the end. FWIW, Carl B. BTW - the above said - I would love to have a really original, low mileage, super clean 280Z. But only after I had a 240Z. No reason to only have one.

Might be a mistake on that engine number.. With that VIN the original engine should be something closer to 3434 or even 4434. A 1400 series block would be extremely rare even in a 10/69 production car. If you have a newer "low number" block - hope it is above 3506... as that is where Nissan started using the newer crankshaft design with additional counterweights.. As for the color - if you like the color after seeing it outside - I say keep it. If it really drives you crazy - then go ahead and disassemble and repaint. Shouldn't take anywhere near the same effort as it did the first time - as all the body work is done.. So your only talking about sanding, and respraying.. Nothing to pulling the doors and fenders off at this point.. The shop should be glad to to it for $2K to $3K - not anywhere near $15K.. FWIW, Carl B.

Interesting - Man asks if there is an experienced Z mechanic {no need to be professional - but experienced } - - that is willing to come to his home - and show him how to change the head gasket. Offers to pay what a Mobile Mechanic would charge - but wants to do the work himself - hands on. Needs "a quote for instruction". Later offers $500.00 {I don't think you would get a Mobile Mechanic to change a head gasket for that amount - but oh well.. 8 well intentioned replies with "Do It Yourself"… but that isn't what was ask. Is there no one in the L.A. area willing to make $500.00 for a couple of days of expert, or even experienced instruction? No one even knows of such a person in that huge area? No mechanics willing to stop by after work and pick up a few bucks? This kind of reminds me of the old Signs I used to see at some Mechanic's Shops LABOR: $65.00 per hour LABOR IF YOU WATCH: $95.00 per hour LABOR IF YOU HELP: $145.00 per hour LABOR IF YOU BRING YOUR OWN PARTS AND HELP: $250.00 per hour FWIW, Carl B.

"Mr. William R. Gorham: Providing direction for Japan's mass-production and high precision technology." It is great to see that William R. Gorham was inducted into the Japan Automotive Hall of Fame {JAHF} this past Sunday. He was certainly a significant contributor to industrial Japan in general, and more specifically to its early automobile industry. "Mr. Ryuichi Tomiya: Challenge to develop Flying Feather and ultra-compact economy cars." At the same time - Ryuichi Tomiya was also inducted. Ryuichi Tomiya was a Stylists, Designer and car builder. Among many notable things, he designed the Leaping Hare hood ornament for early Datsuns, did Advertising Artwork for Datsun as well as Interior Design/Build for Datsun. He is perhaps best known for his Design work on the Flying Feather and Fuji Cabin micro Cars {one of which just sold for $140K} You can review the Program here: http://www.jahfa.jp/JAHFA_PR2_2013.pdf William R. Gorham's Grand Daughter and her husband, were on hand for the Induction Ceremony, If you would like to know more about William R. Gorham - and the early history of Nissan, you can buy the book "William R. Gorham: An American Engineer In Japan" Paper Back from Lulu.com $14.96 Digital .PDF copy from Lulu.com $4.41. William R. Gorham - Lulu.com From Amazon: William R. Gorham: An American Engineer in Japan: Don Cyril Gorham (translator): 9781411655492: Amazon.com: Books Digital Book from Apple iTunes: https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/william-r.-gorham/id484258428?mt=11 FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Greg - Since I couldn't be there - - YES - I want to hear all the stories... Carl

Great Video - thanks!!

With marginal care - the L24's were good for at least 250K miles. Even then, most of the time they only require new rings/bearings. The cylinder walls spec. out to within factory guidelines in 8 of the 10 L24's I see torn down. Blue is right - if there is a problem - it's usually head gaskets and then warped heads. At 80/90K most L24's could benefit from a fresh valve job. A lot of engines wind up getting a complete overhaul - just because the actually just needed a valve job. One young lady put over 350K miles on her Z - before her mechanic pulled it for overhaul - This was after she lost a head gasket and over heated the engine. In that case the block had to be over-bored because the cylinder wall tapper was out of spec., but there actually was no excessive wear on the cylinder walls. This was back in the early 80's and she put a lot of miles per year on the car. Drove it reasonably and had her mechanic service the car regularly. Type "A" transmissions in the 70/71's could be problem at 100K or less - the Type "B" in the 72/73 were in good shape up to 150K miles... The truth is - now 40+ years later, with who knows how many previous owners a car has had - if you have to pull the head for any reason - most guys will go ahead and do a complete overhaul. FWIW, Carl B.

Doug - Randy had one that came with a 71 that he purchased from the original owners family member - it was Gold or Orange.. very clean, low mileage example.. Yes, pretty rare to find one.. FWIW, Carl B.

Zedy.. Looks like you are making great progress as usual. Maybe I missed it over the course of this discussion - but what type of LSD is in that Subi unit? Dave - I've had a Torsen/Gleason unit in my 72 for decades now. BSR set it up for me in the mid 70's with 4.11's - the only time it "clunks" is when I backup and at the same time turn. I am told this is common with that unit, as the mechanical parts unload in that situation.. Other than that it has been indestructible and never clunks moving forward - or in reverse if I'm going straight back. BTW - When I swapped out the L24 for an L28 - I found that the 4.11 was unnecessarily low - the L28 has so much more torque - a 3.7 would have been better for my use.. FWIW, Carl B.

Oops it was 4 weeks ago that you ask - but - Yes - put the rear spacers in. There are thrust bearings on the front strut mounts - so the springs can turn with wheels.. The spacers on the rear just set the ride height and installed spring height at the correct level. If the answer was too late - no worry. But if you take them apart again in the future you can put them in then. BTW - the Z really looks GREAT!! Well worth the time and money!! Carl B.

I'm glad it was helpful - just let us know when the next update is ready.. Carl B.

You would need to publish the Date Of Mfg. - someone may have a good harness - that could simply use to replace the original. If you want rewire - and install new gauges - I'd suggest taking a look at HybridZ.org lots of guys have done that. good luck, Carl B.

As long as the Face Plates were perfect - having $400.00 in each radio is reasonable. I would have done the samething... Carl B.

OK Bill - everyone has been to nice - I want to be nice, but I want to provide helpful feedback. So here are my impressions and thoughts.. For What They Are Worth.. You've got a great start... Looking at the sight - if I were a Customer in need of a repair shop.. If the link says "STOREFRONT" - then it should take you to a picture of the Store Front. The customer lounge, the Free Coffee, the Large Flat Screen.. Maybe a Cash Register that you click on to see the Standard Shop Rates. Most of all a place that makes me fell welcome - or at least shows me a picture of the building - so when I'm driving down the street - I'll know what I'm looking for - {I know I can get this from GoogleMaps - street view. But I shouldn't have to go there. If "Storefront" - is actually "Parts For Sale" then it should say that - just like "Cars For Sale".. consistent terms/use etc. I want to see who I'm dealing with - the Shop Owner's Smiling Face {or the team of guys} should be featured right up front on the Home Page.. If people see someone - it moves them closer to feeling like they know them... The tiny picture in the "ABOUT" section showing someone? - is - well too tiny. You have "...., the current owner operators took over, ...." There names should be there. The more I see their names - the more I feel like I already know them.. "current owner operators" sound like they are hiding from the public.. SERVICES SECTION Who am I looking at under that hood? Pictures of people should always be Captioned - or their names mentioned in the accompanying write up. Something like "Bill loves these old Jag's" or "Bill doing that final quality inspection".. CARS FOR SALE Small pictures of the car - should have a caption stating - "Click Here For Larger Image". Not everyone will know to do that.. but I see it works already. CONTACT Should include the Hours of Operation - as well as an Invitation to "FELL FREE to Stop By And Say Hello" if your in the area Every Page should have a "Return To Top" or "Return To Home Page" - - The Shop should also have a very brief "Goal" or "Mission Statement" Right up front on the Home Page. "Our Goal is to do the job right the first time, finish on time, and have a fully satisfied Customer Every Time". Carl B.

That one is way beyond saving.. take a few good parts off and send the rest to the crusher. Carl

Wow... what a great project. But... WHITE.. she wanted it WHITE!! I was really expecting RED! You are really close now - - keep going! We all want to see the car finished and your wife taking it for the first drive.. Carl B.

Zeddyone - what is the axle ratio you are planing on getting? Why such worry about a strong rear gear and set-up? Is a v8 swap in the future? FWIW, Carl Bl