Carl Beck

Hi Mike: Wondered what happened there. Here are some pictures of the trailer. Standard features can be viewed at: Freedom Trailers|Trailers My trailer had the standard features plus V-Nose and Ramp Door w/Flap. I bought the V-Nose because that is what was delivered to Tampa. I'm not sure it is any better towing, but I do like the extra room. The Ramp Door with flap flips out when the ramp is down, and give you a little extension that sits lower to the ground. - simply makes pulling the car slowly up on the loading ramp easier. The full width fold down rear/ramp makes loading the car far easier than using individual ramps for the tires on Open Trailers. Pictured below - the trailer hooked up to my Chevy 2500HD. I've towed the same trailer with a Chevy 1500 and GMC Yukon XL. It's not much weight as trailers go - even with the Z loaded the total is less than 6000 lbs. So relatively light duty for any of them. Nonetheless - using the 2500HD makes for an easier and more relaxed drive. The extra weight of the truck plus the longer wheel base just makes the rig far more stable at speed and/or in cross winds. Fuel mileage was about the same using any of them - 9 to 10 mpg at 70-75mph. Pictured below - this is the Weight Distribution Trailer Hitch. It just transfers some of the load, from the front of the trailer to the rear wheels of the truck. WD Trailer Hitches allow higher tongue weights, without exceeding the vehicles tow ratings. Also on the side of the WD hitch - you can see the Reese anti-sway device. This is just an adjustable friction slide that dampens sway in cross winds. Or when you pass or are passed by big 18 wheelers.. Pictured below - Here is Will helping me load the Z at Amelia Island. You can see the interior of the trailer. Although it is pretty basic it is fully finished with 3/8" plywood. {less expensive trailers use partial board or cheap wood paneling on thinner steel frames}. More expensive use white vinyl covering over the plywood and are a little brighter inside. You can have vinyl tile on the floor as well. Just takes more money - The BRE Z sits high enough that you can open the car door in the trailer - and clear the trailer wheels. So getting in/out is a breeze. With a lower car, you would have to off-set the Z more to the right side of the trailer - no real people as the car is so light, that shifting it off center 6 inches wouldn't matter. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bill: Good to see you here - You got a Bargain!! Hell, a good job of paint and body work is $10K on a 240Z. Wouldn't surprise me if the person that built the car had over $35K plus a lot of work in it. No fun running 100+ Octane Racing Fuel - it's around $8.00 per gallon in this area and very few places to buy it. All of which means you can't get very far from home. You might want to drop the boost pressures down, perhaps do a few things to lower the compression ratio etc - so you can run it on Pump Gas.. At any rate - enjoy it. You bought it right and will have very little trouble getting your money back out of it. Far better than having $10K in a savings account paying 0.1%... Who knows, maybe three years from now you can turn it over for $20K. FWIW, Carl B.

Very Interesting - were the self-retracting shoulder belts OEM in the black Z or added on import to meet a Swiss Requirement? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Nils: Great Thread, thanks for bringing us along. Looking at the pictures of the wheels - the way they are corroded & colored - I wonder if they are Magnesium Alloy rather than Aluminum Alloy. Look carefully on the back of the wheels and see if there is a Date Of Production stamped into them. BTW - it would appear that your Swiss cars got the same bumpers we did here in the US for 70 though 72. We only got the big ugly bumpers starting in 73. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: First - it seems that a Post that revived this Thread - is now missing. Someone needed a trailer to move a generator - what happened to that? As Randy said - since the Thread was revived - I thought I'd give a status report. The Freedom Trailer turned out be a fairly high quality unit. The build quality and materials are above average for the price I paid. I've been very happy with it. Towed it a few thousand miles, easy to load and unload. Tows true and straight, no real issues with cross winds. It is a "V" nose, but I really don't know of that helps or not. I do like the additional room it provides. $4300.00 plus tax, license and I added a weight distributing, anti-sway {WD/SA} trailer hitch. All in All - I had just under $5K in it. The WD/AS Trailer hitch was about $500.00 including the welding necessary to mount it to the trailer - it was worth the money. Trailer tows nice and level. I spent a few bucks - on additional tie-downs and Z Track inside. Added a rear view video camera. Now the plastic air vent in the roof needs to be replaced. The sun ate it - it was obviously very cheap plastic. Now with more experience - I'd rather have a 16.5' to 18' trailer at the most. That is more than enough room for my use, and shorter trailers are easier to back up. It would also be that much less weight to pull/stop. I'd rather have a much lower profile trailer to reduce wind resistance {drag}. My trailer has just over 6'6" height inside. I wouldn't mind having to stoop a bit inside the trailer - as I'm not actually in it for more than a few minutes during loading/unloading. I would like to have drip rails along the top - clear down the length of the trailer. When the trailer is parked for prolonged periods - dust/dirt/grim build up on top - then when it rains I wind up with black streaks running down the sides of the trailer. This usually requires polish to get them out.. Washing, Polishing and waxing a trailer is a lot of work and no real fun. So another expense involved - I had to buy a FLEX buffer to make the job a lot less work, not to mention the cost of materials to detail a trailer! Drip Rails along the sides would greatly reduce the grim that stains the paint. None of these issues however are great enough to encourage me to go spend $10K on a better trailer. I have bought an open, flat bed, aluminum trailer - it was used, and really a steal. I plan to build a custom designed enclosure on that some day. I view that as money spent on a fun project more so than money spend on a needed trailer.. Bottom line - for the money - I'd recommend this Freedom Trailer to anyone. FWIW, Carl B.

I run an E-88 on my L28.. so that should not be a problem as long as you stick to the 75-78 L28's with dished pistons. You can use an L28 with flat top pistons, as long as the head hasn't been milled to much. FWIW, Carl B.

If you are going to use a non-matching number long block - why not just use any good running L24, L26 or L28 with N42 head? Any of them will direct bolt into the car. The L28 with N42 {75/76} head is very easy to swap to carb's and it mounts to the original square port exhaust manifold. A broader range of engine blocks may yield something closer to you. FWIW Carl B.

Now that I can see better pictures of the car - I'd have to agree that $20K might be top money at auction, but it would be a bargain at $15K. While it is a very nice survivor, with lots of pluses there are noticeable flaws that knock it out of the Condition #1 or #2 rating. It is a very solid #3 Condition example with that added PLUS for still having its original paint from the factory etc. If there are buyers there that love - original unmolested examples {aka Survivors} - even with a few flaws - it could go for $20K or more. On the other hand, with "Sell Everything" type Clearance Sale auctions - buyers are there hoping for a few bargains. It would be interesting to watch... FWIW, Carl B.

Wow... I've not seen that happen. How old or new was that distributor? I've had the same unilite in my 72 with an L28 for..30+ years. I'd sure contact Mallory about it - especially if it was a newer distributor.. they may have a materials or process problem to address. FWIW, Carl B.

A pretty amazing collection - worth downloading the Digital Catalog.. great info on lots of mini-cars. There is also a 76 TR-6 with a few thousand miles - $30K to $40K expected. I'm afraid that runing this whole lot at one place and time - will not bring top prices for any of them. Looks like all will be sold with no reserve.. FWIW, Carl B.

Sorry Jerry - no help here. From use, both labels seem to have worn out and fallen off my 72. 80K miles now.. Carl B.

Mr. K and his wife are certainly amazing people. Wonderful to hear that they are healthy and doing well. That looks like Masataka Usami and his wife in the background. Thanks for the update.. Carl B.

As pictured that was Joel Anderson's Z. According to Joel - It started out as the 1972 OMS Pace Car and was purchased by Joel {Frank Leary's Crew Chief} from the Datsun Competition Dept. for $1.00 and Joel picked it up at Sear Point from Bob Bondurant in 1979. It was prepared for IMSA GT-U. The Z was featured in the movie "Herbie Goes To Monte Carlo". Joel said he sold it to a friend, that was going to prepare it for SCCA GT2. Les - do you know who the owner is now? FWIW, Carl B.

No - I don't have a written spec for them. Not too many bolts in the 240Z 8m-1.0's as I recall. Most are 1.25 or 1.5 FWIW, Carl B.

Alan - the metric fasteners in the Z are JIS - Japanese Industrial Standard. The metric that is 8mm with a 13mm head is ANS/ISO or DIN. Here in Clearwater, FL - our local ACE Hardware Store carries some JIS hex head bolts - maybe someone near you does too. FWIW, Carl B.

Does this mean that you will have the Bilstein's for sale? Also do you know what the spring rate is for the Tokico Springs? From my older notes, from Ken P. in 2006 - I have 120 lbs/in for the progressive rate springs and 140 lbs/in for the linear rate springs. Does the "kit" come with adjustable rate shocks? FWIW, Carl B.

I'd agree with ksechler - walk away. Even at $1000.00 -You don't need to buy major problems.. way too many clean Z's in California...keep looking. FWIW, Carl B.

I'm in Florida, USA {pretty hot here all summer} - I've never had a vapor lock issue with any 70-72 240Z here. Maybe you didn't actually have a vapor lock? Perhaps some other restriction in the fuel lines? Are you running headers - with no heat shielding? Is your fuel return line clear? Carb's in good shape? Did you eliminate the mechanical pump when you installed the electric pump? Just curious. Fuel lines pressurized to 3.5 psi - 4.5 psi should clear any vapor problems fairly quickly... Did you ever get the problem solved?

The Euro Spec Springs are about 10% stiffer than US Spec springs - if you cut a couple of coils off to keep the same ride height - you'll be about 20% stiffer than stock - nonetheless that is still a relatively soft spring rate. I think the Bilsteins would be just fine with that... Hi Bill: If they work well with the OEM springs - they really should have a broad enough application range to work well with slightly stiffer springs, without blowing them out. As I recall - BRE/Interpart used a couple of different OEM's to produce the "Mulholland" brand - the early one's were actually Koni's and the later one's were Boge. In both cases the OEM's part numbers are stamped into the body shell at the bottom of the shock. Sometimes that is covered up by the paint used to make them "Mulhollands"... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dave: I do not know of a retail source for either of the spring sets. You might find a set on E-Bay, or buy them from someone like me - that has a few sets. We have learned a lot since 2005. First - the Euro Spec Springs combined with modern Gas Pressure Shocks - will not lower your 240Z - the combination will RAISE the ride height of the car - in some cases by as much as 1 1/2 to 2+ inches! To get the rid height back close to original - most guys had to cut 2 to 2 1/2 coils off the springs. The same is true for the Stock Springs combined with modern gas pressure shocks. Although fewer coils had to be removed. These newer gas pressure shocks have significantly more gas pressure than they did 20 years ago. So with the upward force they have - they unload some of the normal pre-load exerted by the corner weight of the 240Z's {around 650 lbs}. That Said: I still have the NOS Euro Spec. Stage I springs that we used for the model from which to reproduce them. I'd sell them for $400.00 plus $50.00 for packing and shipping anywhere in the US. I also still have a couple of sets of the "Stock" Reproduction Springs. I'd sell them for $279.00 plus $40.00 shipping and handling anywhere in the US. US Postal Money Order or PayPal.. Drop me an E-Mail or PM if you can't find anything for less. I'm in no hurry to sell them.. FWIW, Carl

If necessary I use 600/800 grit metal oxide wet sand paper, on a flat/straight sanding block about 6" long. I put the heads in the parts washer and flow cleaning solvent over them while working the sand paper. I've only had to do that a couple of times - normally just the cleaning solvent in the part washer and a gasket scraper do the job. FWIW, Carl B.

HLS30 00013 is the lowest VIN Datsun 240Z released for sale to the public, that we know of at this time. That is supported by some Factory Documents as well. HLS30 00012 down to HLS30 00009 - are at this point MIA - so not accounted for. Rumor was that they went to Canada for extended cold weather testing...but who knows? FWIW, Carl B.

Normally International Bank Transfers are fine for large purchase amounts - but many of the banks here charge fixed service fees for accepting or sending funds in that manor - It can be anywhere between $5.00 and $25.00 USD for the fee. So it's easy to see why a purchase of parts for $10.00 would not be too profitable for them. Also - everyone fears being burned by Internet Fraud or any financial transactions from outside the US. The legal issues that might arise are just too difficult to deal with across international boarders. FWIW, Carl B.

Alan - Great Thread. Thanks for pointing us to 'take432r' Photo Gallery - it is good to see some clear pictures that allow detailed views of these unique Z's. Also wanted to say that your summary of the "r" alterations was not only informative, but fun to read. Kats - very interesting to have some actual sheet metal thickness measurements. I went out to the garage and measured the OEM Frame Rails and Front Fenders that I have - they are Frame Rail = 1.27 mm / 0.050 inch - 18 gauge {0.478 nominal, 0.0438 Min. and 0.0.518 Max.} Front Fender = 1.37 mm / 0.0539 inch - 17 gauge {0.538 nominal, 0.498 Min. and Max 0.0548} Checking the weight of cold rolled sheet metal - per sq. ft. 0.6mm / 24 gauge cold rolled steel weight 1.00 bls per sq. ft. 0.7mm / 23 gauge cold rolled steel weight 1.125 bls per sq. ft. 0.8mm / 21 gauge cold rolled steel weight 1.375 lbs per sq. ft. 1.0mm / 19 gauge cold rolled steel weight 1.75 lbs per sq. ft. 1.27mm /18 gauge cold rolled steel weight 2.0 lbs. per sq. ft 1.37mm/17 gauge cold rolled steel weight 2.25 lbs. per sq. ft So if the fenders actually are 0.8 mm it looks like about 0.9 lbs could be saved per sq. ft. of sheet metal. A wild guess would be that a front fender has about 8 sq. ft. of sheet metal {fender and brace}. So a "stock" front fender should weight about 18 lbs {8.16 Kilograms} and the "R" fender should weight about 11 lbs. {5 kilograms} All just a wild guess - but it would be interesting to weight each type of front fender. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - the headliner was glued directly to the roof metal. There was a thin layer of foam rubber between the metal and vinyl headliner. I've had very good results with 3M SUPER TRIM ADHESIVE 3M Super Trim Adhesive, 08090, 19 oz-Shop 3M The adhesive that Nissan used originally is amazing stuff - 40 years in the Florida sun and the headliner is still firmly in place. FWIW, Carl B.