Carl Beck

If necessary I use 600/800 grit metal oxide wet sand paper, on a flat/straight sanding block about 6" long. I put the heads in the parts washer and flow cleaning solvent over them while working the sand paper. I've only had to do that a couple of times - normally just the cleaning solvent in the part washer and a gasket scraper do the job. FWIW, Carl B.

HLS30 00013 is the lowest VIN Datsun 240Z released for sale to the public, that we know of at this time. That is supported by some Factory Documents as well. HLS30 00012 down to HLS30 00009 - are at this point MIA - so not accounted for. Rumor was that they went to Canada for extended cold weather testing...but who knows? FWIW, Carl B.

Normally International Bank Transfers are fine for large purchase amounts - but many of the banks here charge fixed service fees for accepting or sending funds in that manor - It can be anywhere between $5.00 and $25.00 USD for the fee. So it's easy to see why a purchase of parts for $10.00 would not be too profitable for them. Also - everyone fears being burned by Internet Fraud or any financial transactions from outside the US. The legal issues that might arise are just too difficult to deal with across international boarders. FWIW, Carl B.

Alan - Great Thread. Thanks for pointing us to 'take432r' Photo Gallery - it is good to see some clear pictures that allow detailed views of these unique Z's. Also wanted to say that your summary of the "r" alterations was not only informative, but fun to read. Kats - very interesting to have some actual sheet metal thickness measurements. I went out to the garage and measured the OEM Frame Rails and Front Fenders that I have - they are Frame Rail = 1.27 mm / 0.050 inch - 18 gauge {0.478 nominal, 0.0438 Min. and 0.0.518 Max.} Front Fender = 1.37 mm / 0.0539 inch - 17 gauge {0.538 nominal, 0.498 Min. and Max 0.0548} Checking the weight of cold rolled sheet metal - per sq. ft. 0.6mm / 24 gauge cold rolled steel weight 1.00 bls per sq. ft. 0.7mm / 23 gauge cold rolled steel weight 1.125 bls per sq. ft. 0.8mm / 21 gauge cold rolled steel weight 1.375 lbs per sq. ft. 1.0mm / 19 gauge cold rolled steel weight 1.75 lbs per sq. ft. 1.27mm /18 gauge cold rolled steel weight 2.0 lbs. per sq. ft 1.37mm/17 gauge cold rolled steel weight 2.25 lbs. per sq. ft So if the fenders actually are 0.8 mm it looks like about 0.9 lbs could be saved per sq. ft. of sheet metal. A wild guess would be that a front fender has about 8 sq. ft. of sheet metal {fender and brace}. So a "stock" front fender should weight about 18 lbs {8.16 Kilograms} and the "R" fender should weight about 11 lbs. {5 kilograms} All just a wild guess - but it would be interesting to weight each type of front fender. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - the headliner was glued directly to the roof metal. There was a thin layer of foam rubber between the metal and vinyl headliner. I've had very good results with 3M SUPER TRIM ADHESIVE 3M Super Trim Adhesive, 08090, 19 oz-Shop 3M The adhesive that Nissan used originally is amazing stuff - 40 years in the Florida sun and the headliner is still firmly in place. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bart: Good to see you return - I take it that you could not access your original user name / account? That showed "Bart Hoedemaker" joining in 2008 with 181 Posts? Nonetheless this was a great project to watch.. FWIW, Carl B.

As I recall - every one I've taken off a Z, has had the Part Number printed on it - so I'd say yours is factory. FWIW, Carl B.

Nice Street Mod Z - looks like some good work was done on this one. Sold for $10,400.00 - - very sad for the seller... Sold with No Reserve.. 1972 DATSUN 240Z Lot 49 | Barrett-Jackson Auction Company I'd buy it for that amount any day.. The seller would have been better off on EBay.. FWIW, Carl B.

We have a speciality shop here, well actually several in the area - I used them to press out axles and check the bearing races etc. It only took them about 10 minutes - and cost me $20.00. Money well worth the time saved and hassles avoided. They have the equipment to quickly, easily and safely do the work. Just a thought. Carl B.

WOW!! $114.00... I need to update my inventory list of NOS parts... I had them listed at $25.00. I guess if a 40 year old used one is worth $49.00... FWIW, Carl B.

I use a Snap-On "wabble extension" with a short socket. I also clean & check the threads on the bolts when I have them out, then shoot a little Kroil on them. That allows me to screw them in with my fingers farther to start with. FWIW, Carl B.

Those are the pictures I took of the OEM chin spoiler that I had - I sold it to Burton Brown for use on a Bonniville Speed run. While somewhat flexible that one was molded fairly straight across like the lower finisher panels of the 240Z's. I think the spoiler that the OP Posted is for a late 260Z or 280Z body - mostly because the lower finishers on those bodies were rounded down, for the larger radiators used. I doubt it would fit a 70-73 240Z or early 74 260Z. May have just been tagged incorrectly in the dealers inventory.. I have a BRE spoiler for the 280Z's that looks a lot like the one the originally ask about. The BRE unit is fibergalss, but has the same more round line to fit the lower finisher panels on the 280Z. Although the BRE unit extends down toward the ground farther. FWIW, Carl B.

I'm not sure what an "ashtray/fusebox cover" is. or what is meant by that. So just to be clear...The Series I cars have an ashtray and a cover on the top of the fusebox. Both in good condition are getting hard to come by. FWIW, Carl B.

A Good Deal Always Gets Better. A Bad Deal Always Gets Worse. Looks like you got a very good deal. A/C with the rotary compressor.. clean looking engine bay.. FWIW, Carl B.

Maybe because the 350/370 Z Car people really own a shortened Infiniti. FWIW, Carl B.

My 11/71 has webbing under the seats - I'm the original owner. I also did not get self retracting seat belts, nor a red seat belt warning light on the cover over the fuse box, nor waring buzzer. Also have vertical rear window defroster lines. The newer cars 12/71 or some time after had springs in the seats so the seat belt warning light and buzzer sensor could be installed. They also got self-retracting seat belts, horizontal rear window defroster lines. Some very early 72 Model Year Z's 09/72, came though without any "indentation" in the floor boards for the self-retracting seat belts as well. So there seems to have been a change over period of several months to add the things required by the 72 Safety Standards.. FWIW, Carl B.

NO - NO - NO!! If they aren't original to the DATSUN 240Z - they wouldn't be any good for restorations. You might as well send the old set out to be Chromed. If there is a large enough market - might be possible to stamp them both ways.. Is there a market? FWIW, Carl B.

The Black Pearl came with hub caps - it would only have the optional mag wheels, if they were one of the extra cost options put on the car. FWIW, Carl B.

The last Datsun 240Z's were built in 08/73. Datsun 260Z's started production in 08/73, by 11/73 or 12/73 you would be looking at a 260Z. Yes the early 260Z's had big rubber blocks on the front bumper. Of course you never know what any previous owner may have done.. FWIW, Carl B.

Had to go check my Owners Manuals - you are correct for 1972 - 87 is for Reseach and Motor average. It was 91 RON in other countries. The "original" Owners Manuals {69/70} did call for 91 Octane - but back then it was only Research Octane Number.. FWIW, Carl B. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't recall seeing it.. Every 73 240Z I've seen so far has the same front bumper mounts. There was a difference between the "early" and "late" 74 260Z front bumpers. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - with that extensive a job - pull the windshield and rear deck lid glass. No matter how it is masked off - it will leave a build up line of paint around the seals - and that will greatly distract from the quality of the finished job. Pay a few bucks extra if you have too - it will be worth it.. FWIW, Carl B.

I had a set of the vinyl trim plates made from Stainless Steel about 20 years ago. They are still in my White 72... not OEM, but attractive and if one didn't know better they look factory. If you take a set to almost any Sheet Metal Shop - they can easily duplicate them.. then just drill the proper holes, by sitting the old one on top of the new one's. With todays DNC/CNC machine tools - I don't think it would be super expensive to make a die to stamp thin aluminum. If not here in the US - then China.. FWIW, Carl B.

I've always ran at least 91 octane - but then I've always ran more initial advance in the timing. As I recall the original owners manual called for high test.. Nonetheless if your set up to run 87.. and you are not getting ping - run the cheap stuff. FWIW, Carl B.

Had to make myself haul them off to the scrap - did a refresh on the garage {to please "She who must be obeyed"}. Couldn't find anyone around here to sell them too - so two complete L28's went to the scrap metal yard. Also took about four L24's there as well. Of course after I got rid of them - I found several people that wanted them.. FWIW, Carl B.