Carl Beck

What all have you done to it - and what remains? The pictures look great.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Captain: I can't find the radio in any of the wiring diagrams I've looked at so far. The service, removal & installation of the radio and speaker - is covered in a Supplemental Chassis Manual. Even then, the wiring diagrams in that Manual still don't show the radio or speaker. Nor is there a list of the wire color codes for the radio. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dan, I think there is still a confusion here. Jerry and I have NOS Nissan CARTRIDGES, The Original Rebuildable Shocks {or inserts} are: 56110-E4126 ASSY-SHOCK ABSORBER - FRONT The Original Replacement Cartridge Shocks are: 56105-E4125 CARTRIDGE SHOCK ABSORBER FRONT No Seal Kit is needed when you use the Cartridges. The seals in the cartridges are self contained. Just like all the modern replacement shocks for Strut type suspensions. I don't have a good picture of the original rebuildable type shocks that came in the early 240Z's. I do have a picture of the rebuildable Nissan Competition Rally shocks - so maybe that will make things a little more clear. On the top is an after-market Cartridge Type, the rebuildable shock absorber assembly is in the middle and the original Nissan Cartridge Type shock is on the bottom. FWIW, Carl B.

HI Dan: Not to be nit-picky - - but to avoid confusion of terms - among anyone following this Thread. The Shock Absorbers contained within the Strut Tube - are Re-Buildable. That is what you use the NOS Seal Kits for. The "Cartridge Type Shock Absorbers" are NOT re-buildable. You just replace them. The Shock Absorbers contained within the Strut Tube, use oil contained within the Strut Tube to absorb shock. The Cartridge Type Shock Absorbers use oil contained within the Cartridge to absorb the shock - plus oil contained within the Strut Tube surrounding the Cartridge - to transfer heat from the Cartridge to the Strut Tube - then to the atmosphere. I have 2 NOS 56105- E4125 Cartridges- priced at $75.00 each plus shipping, get two rears from Jerry and someone would have a complete set. Hey - who knows what they would bring on EBay - FWIW, Carl B.

Great Story Zedyone_kenobi - I can sympathize as I had done pretty much the same at one point or another. For the past decade or so - I've uses NISSAN's Spark Plug Wires. They fit and they are Black - FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Captain: The colors I Posted - are the colors of the wires coming out the back of the different radios. I used the ZD from 74 to replace my 72 ZC. Had to swap the mounting brackets on the sides of the radios, then swap the face plates. I just took the 5 wires out of the 6 Pin Connector on the ZD - Put the Blue and Two Whites into the three pin connector needed for 72 ZC. Then screwed the black wire to the dash metal where the rear of the radio mounts. The Red wire then plugged into the same place as the original radio. Yes - the 72 ZC is mounted to the dash metal, which is bolted directly to the Firewall. So "if" one has a good body ground - the radio is grounded. I would see that adding a direct ground though the wiring harness would be an improvement, but screwing it to the same dash metal works just as well as it did for 72. I think the bottom line is that it is possible to use any of these newer model radio's in an older Z, as long as you have the mounting brackets and face plate from the older Z. I'll try to add some pictures of the radio's and the radio wiring to this thread. That and the info you provided should answer most questions in the future about these swaps. Thanks for taking the time to look the info. up... FWIW, Carl B.

Good to hear - hope you enjoyed the few weeks you had off.

Non-stock, very nice project car -- $5K to $6K. If you are lucky enough to find a cash buyer that happens to love everything you have done - $7.5K. A lot depends on advertising it far and often - then answering the phone when people call - and showing it when they want. It really is a buyers market - and if you don't respond - the next seller they call will. FWIW, Carl B.

With more Datsun 240Z's being exported from the US to Europe now, there will be an increased demand for the Euro Spec Tail Lights. They are required and some countries will not give a waver, so they have to be swapped into former US Spec. Z's. The last couple pairs I saw in like condition went for $1200.00 or above. Shipping from Sweden would most likely be less than from the US. FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks - Carl B.

Really ? - no one knows what that green wire on the 280Z radio is for? FWIW, Carl B.

We had a 1200 Fastback in 72/73. Great little car.. loved it. If that one was close to me I'd be there checking it out. Carl B.

Thanks Jerry: When I bought my first 240Z in March of 1970 - there were several 410/411 Station Wagons in the Spokane, Washington area. They were built like tanks.. very sold body, but way underpowered for the U.S. market. When the 510's came out they were almost the complete opposite - light weight bodies with very peppy engines.. a smash hit. Great to see that a few 410/411's have been saved Personally - I think the mid 70's 610 Station Wagons were actually the "Best Of Breed" among the Datsun Station Wagons - but they never really enjoyed the popularity that the 510's did. FWIW, Carl B.

See: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread28467.html

This is kind of a sanity or fact check. I have, I believe a 260Z Radio that I want to swap into a 240Z. Has anyone used a later 260Z AM/FM radio - to replace an earlier 1972 Radio? I am looking at a AM/FM Radio for a 1972 240Z - and AM/FM Radios from I believe a 260Z & 280Z.??? 1972 Radio Model Number: KM-1520-ZC 1974/75 Radio Model Number: KM-15020-ZD 1976 Radio Model Number: KM-1520-ZE While they have slightly different mounting brackets screwed to the sides { they are screw-on interchangeable} - the Radios look very much the same in terms of exterior dimensions. The Face Plates are a different shape for the different dash styles, but again they can be swapped between all these radios as will. Wiring harness "SEEM" to be ABOUT the same - The 72 KM-1520-ZC has 4 wires: A Three Plug connector with a Blue Fused Wire, Gray Wire and Gray with Blue strip. A Red wire with male bullet connector The 74? KM-1520ZD had 5 wires A Six Plug connector with 5 Wires A Red Wire, Fused Blue Wire, White Wire and White with Blue strip, Black Wire The 75/76??? KM-1520-ZE has 6 wires: A Six Plug connector with 6 wires. A Blue Fused Wire, A Red Wire, A Black Wire, A Green Wire with White Strip, White Wire, White Wire with Black Strip. So... Blue with Fuse is the main power feed. Gray [or white} Wire and Gray {or white} With Blue Strip is the Speaker Red - Radio Light ? The extra Black wire on the ZD is a ground??? The Black Wire on the ZE - is actually screwed to the outside of the metal case. The Additional Green Wire with White Strip is ???? Are the above guesses correct or not? What is the additional Green Wire for on the ZE? Thanks, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: Do you have any more pictures of the Red 410 or 411 Stationwagon? Also I love that STOCK 510 4Door... FWIW, Carl B.

I think most people that want an original 5spd. shift knob - want an accurate reproduction of the original plastic shift map. The "Cloisonne" technique would not fill that bill. FWIW, Carl B.

The Reproduction on E-Bay has a Red "R" - the original I have use a White "R" FWIW, Carl B.

That's Amazing!! Who still rides motorcycles - your Fiance or Mary McGee? Your Fiance should do an interview with Mary for publication in Nissan Sport Mag. It would be interesting to see how her career evolved over the past 45 years. FWIW, Carl B.

That is really a shame. A lot of great people there. Carl B.

Which interior panels? For what year car? What color? Where do they need to be shipped to, or purchased locally to save shipping? I don't see a car in your Profile - did you buy something recently? FWIW, Carl B.

Personally I wouldn't want to. However as part of the Gasoline Vapor Emission Control System - gas vapors from the tank are collected in that cannister behind the Right Rear Quarter. That cannister is there to allow the vapors to condense back into liquid form when they get dense enough. The vapors that remain are sent up to the engine compartment - to that Flow Control Valve. They are sucked into the crank case when there is a negative pressure there - then redirected to the intake via the PCV system - to be sucked into the combustion chamber. So the crank case is just a place to suspend them until they can be put back into the combustion process. This was all originally part of the California emissions control regulations - but soon became part of the Federal Standards. Give a bureaucrat an inch and they will always take a mile and demand more. They can not ever let their job be DONE. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - a ton of good pictures - that address the concerns of most informed potential buyers of Datsun 240Z's. This is a good example of a good Ad. Also agree that there is a certain amount of "timing luck" - hit the timing right and there will be two or three potential buyers with money burning a hole in their pockets - hit the timing wrong - and it has to be relisted a couple months later.. Of course there is a lot of price elasticity involved - price it low enough and it will sell. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes, something doesn't line up. By 4/72 the seat belt warning system was required by the Fed's and every car after 01/72 that I've found - came with self retracting seat belts. But David mentioned "retractable shoulder seat belt straps". So I think his question may have been more about the shoulder belt part and how or if that was supposed to hang on the "J" hook by itself. With these old Z's you never know what some previous owner has done. Many people didn't like the self retracting seat belts - as they couldn't be used as easily to lock yourself in the seat. A lot of guys that auto-crossed or did track days replaced them with the older style. Most people didn't appreciate the seat belt warning buzzer and light either - so many of them were simply disconnected. Likewise the door open warning buzzers... Always interesting.. Carl B.

If you have the whole system off - that would mean all the hard lines from the tank to the carb's - is that correct or not? To get the long hard lines off - as I recall you have to remove the rear suspension as well. You can use Chevron's Techron Concentrate Plus, it is very effective. Pour it directly into the hard fuel lines - cap one end, and let it sit for a day. Then drain it in a pan - and it can be used on several lines. After the Techron is emptied out - flush with fresh gasoline. It doesn't take much.. catch the gasoline in a pan and pour it back though a couple of times. A less expensive solution - but slightly less effective - is to use Toluene or Xylene. You can buy them at Home Depot by the gallon. They are commonly used as paint thinners..{but they are also used in the Techron Concentrate or other Fuel System Cleaners}. They will dissolve the varnish that forms when gasoline is allowed to evaporate - just takes them a little longer and in greater quantities than the Techron. If you have to cut a section of a hard fuel line out - it is no problem. Just cut out the damaged section - take it to any Hydrulic Line supplier or repair shop. They will have brass compression fittings that allow you to join the new sections with the ends of the older section. Of course you'll have to custom bend the new sections - and you will want to make your cuts where you have straight line on both sides of the damaged section. If you are worried about cosmetics - just cut the entire end off - back under the car - then use a good end from a parts car. That way the repair won't show in the engine compartment. If you are now running a set of SU's - you only need the mechanical pump in Calf. most of the time. On real hot days - if you fill an empty tank with cooler fuel - it is possible to get vapor lock if your mechanical pump is weak. Yes - originally the electric pump was put there to help eliminate vapor lock in the 73/74 Z's. The other option is to simply run a new electric pump. Even in Southern Cailf - you need defrosters for the windshield when you hit fog, humid weather, or go to the mountains... I'd replace the heater if this is a road driven car. Besides you never know when or if you will want to go North.. to God's Country. good luck, Carl B.