Carl Beck

Thanks Mike - just the info I was looking for. Carl

Yes -vthat seems to be Correct. The Rollers have different part numbers between the 240Z and 260Z - - so I'd have to guess that they are slightly different as well. FWIW, Carl B.

If you have a 260Z and looking at your Profile it look like you do - then Yes. For others following - On the 240Z the roller is about 6" from the front of the door - you'll see where the metal is cut out for it. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jim: - My glass doesn't stretch. On the other hand we must have some odd doors - my windows advance from front to back as the window is raised. I can tell that because if I raise the window about 1" - I can see that the back edge of the window is a few inches from the back frame. The back frame is more or less straight - so the window has to get back there somehow. I think we could say that the entire door glass gets wider from front to back as the window is raised. Let me rephrase that original sentence again... Although it made perfect sense to me as I wrote it. The front of the door glass is formed at an angle, to match the slope of the front window frame - so the Roller is set at an angle to match the leading edge of the glass and glide across that leading edge without binding - as the window moves up and back. Yes, you can install them in reverse - but over time as the initial single point of contact wears - the windows are harder to roll up as they start to bind, and then the steel above the pivot breaks. While we are at it - I'll mention that the rubber bumpers in the bottom of the door are also very important to have in place. They prevent the window from being lowered below the fuzzy on the door panels. If they aren't there - the glass can get lowered too far, and on its way back up - it can get bound up under the wrong side of that Fuzzy... {been there done that too} FWIW, Carl B.

OK - trying to find a rear muffler that is pretty close to OEM.. I took my NOS parts to a few Muffler Shops in the area.. The Local Independently Owned Muffer Shop Muffler $66.31 6" round, Offset inlet/outlet about 11" long {OEM Is 13 1/2 inch long) Resonator $109.99 - This is a Flowmaster but just about the same size as OEM - only a bit thicker Pipe $29.95 Custom Bent Labor $80.00 Sales Tax $20.04 $306.29 Walker Technical Support responed that their Part Number 22659 was as close as they could come. It is 6" round with offset 1 7/8's inch inlet/outlet. Only it is 16" shell length - were OEM was 13 1/2 inch. Don't know if that will fit - I'll have to go look at my White Z .. the Walker 22659 is available from Advanced Auto Parts for $99.95. The Flowmaster Resonator is $104.95 from Advanced.. FWIW, Carl B.

Can you tell me a little more about the process? I don't see how Plastic and be chromed otherwise. I might not make the Oct. cut off this time - but as I clean out the garage I may wind up with several pieces to send out at one time. thanks, Carl B.

Yes - it is a bad perspective. The Drawing shown is for the 260Z from Aug 73 Forward. Where E has the ??? is where the Roller is shown in the 260Z Drawing. The Drawings in the Parts Catalog for the 240Z is a little less confusing - as it shows the Rollers in relation to the door panel fuzzy - and moved away from the door in the background. The Parts Catalog shows different Part Numbers for the 240Z and 260Z as well Right and Left 240Z 80933-N3400 80934-N3400 Right and Left 260Z 80840-E4101 80841-E4101 I have not seen the Rollers on the 260Z - are they mounted straight, unlike the 240Z Rollers? If so I could see that they would be mounted toward the rear of the window. FWIW, Carl B.

For the 240Z the window roller goes toward the front - there is a cut-out in the door metal where it fits. The rollers are mounted at an angle to the glass. So there is a Left Roller and a Right Roller - they do not interchange. The front of the glass comes up at an angle so the Roller is angled to glide across it. I've never seen a second Roller for the 240Z - but if one were mounted toward the rear of the glass - it would have to be more or less mounted without the angle - as the rear of the glass comes more or less straight up in the window frame. FWIW, Carl B.

Good to hear you got it worked out. Now - peel some rubber, do some power shifts about 5000 RPM.. the harder you run a 240Z the better they run. That will also clear most of the corrosion off the clutch disc and flywheel surface. Normally this doesn't happen unless the car has sat for several weeks or months. If it happended just 1 1/2 hours after you parked it - that is really rare. Must have been a very short trip - just enough to warn things up, but not enough to clean the disc/flywheel. Anyway - we are starting to get some mornings and evenings cool enough to drive a 240Z here again.. FWIW, Carl B.

NAPA Red is a SEM Color Name - I don't know of the NAPA Parts Stores sell it or not.{just wanted that to be clear} SEM products are handled by most Automotive Paint Stores and suppliers. FWIW, Carl B.

In my limited experience - there is no such thing as a "240Z clutch kit". The original Pressure Plates that came in the 70/73 240Z's from the Factory were thicker than the later 280Z Pressure Plates. In the past 10 years, I've never received a new Pressure Plate that was the same thickness as the original factory Pressure Plates that came in the 240Z's when they were produced. No matter if you "order" a 240Z Pressure Plate or not - you most likely won't get one. What you will get is the newer replacement parts - which are in fact the thinner 280Z pressure plates. In that case - you have to get a 280Z or 280ZX Throwout Bearing Collar. The problem you describe sounds like you put the old 240Z Throwout Bearing Collar - in with a newer style -ie thinner - Pressure Plate. Question: Did You Keep The Old Pressure Plate Handy? If so - set it side by side on a flat surface and see if it is the same height as the new one - when you pull the new one out. Measure the distance between the flat surface and the top of the pressure plate "fingers". Of course - another cause for the problem you describe -is that the Clutch Disk can bond itself to the flywheel with Rust - if that car has been sitting without being driven for months and months. FWIW, Carl B.

Oops...I must have been looking at that center section up-side down. The inlet and outlet on the resonator are actually offset to the Left side - not the right as written above. I am working with Walker Muffler Technical Support - we'll see what they say. I'll also check a few other Muffler Manufacturers. Finding replacements that are pretty close to original in terms of form and fit shouldn't be impossible. FWIW, Carl B.

The center resonator is oval shaped 3.5" high x 6" wide x 11" long The inlet to the resonator is connected directly to the header pipe - and it is offset to the Right as you face the inlet. The outlet is also offset to the right as you look at the face {engine side} of the resonator. The rear muffler is 13 3/4" long x 6 5/8's diameter round. The inlet is offset to the bottom and the outlet is offset near the top. The pipes seem to be about 1 7/8's inch. I have a complete NOS exhaust system - maybe tomorrow I'll run over to the local Midas Shop and see if they have anything close. Midas used to have the spec.'s to custom bend the pipes, and they used to stock pre-bend header pipes. Of course NAPA/Walker used to stock OEM quality replacements as well - - but not longer. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: The Datsun Comp. Catalog circa 1977 stated that the "European Spring" would lower the car 1/2 to 1 inch. The truth is that they do not - in fact they would raise the ride height about that much. The Euro. Spec springs are only about 10 to 12% stiffer than the stock springs. Your car as pictured - looks like it was just taken off a lift or jack stands. I think that by the time you load it with fuel and passengers - then drive it a day or so - it will set down a "little" lower. Nonetheless, with no coils cut off the stock springs - the car will set higher than Factory Spec.'s because of the newer gas pressure shocks. Lots of us have ran into this problem. Most guys reported cutting 1 1/2 to 2 coils off the stock springs - if running the newer gas pressure shocks. Pulling the springs back out to cut them down is no fun. Running the Euro Spec Springs you have to take 2 to 2 1/2 coils off. FWIW, Carl B.

- most likely all of them! The two found were both repainted after a few years. However sanding down carefully though the re-paints and rere-paints revieled the original OMS Blue.. in both cases their prior owner history was known. FWIW, Carl B.

Of the 50 OMS Pace Car replicas produced - I've only found two so far. Always looking for more... FWIW, Carl B.

Call John Williams - 770-806-2926. John has been repairing/rebuilding/racing 240Z's for decades. FWIW, Carl B.

The smell of raw gas and/or exhaust fumes in the cabin of a 240Z are quite common. That is a discussion in and of itself - many different causes. With a car running tripple side drafts however, the first thing you want to check is leaking fuel lines, floats that are overflowing/stuck. All can cause an engine fire... At certain higher RPM ranges you can also experience "stand off" - where fuel vapors "stand off" outside the carb face. Normally an air cleaner confines them and they get sucked back into the carbs - but with no air cleaners, the wrong length of air horns, intake runners and/or balance tubes etc - they can farther vaporize outside the carbs - and create a stong smell of gasoline. If these are modifications that you would have done to any 240Z you bought - then they are a plus for you. However, fiberglass fenders and flaired rear quarters will significantly reduce the market value of a 240Z, and they will appeal to a smaller number of people. If you ever want to resell the car - just be aware of that. Good rear quarter panels can easily run $850.00 each in used condition and over $1500.00 each for NOS. Then there is the cost of labor to replace them.. If you would not have done that to your 240Z, or if you want a 240Z as a Classic/Collectible Sports GT - - then walk away from that one. IMHO it would have to sell for significantly less money in todays market.. FWIW, Carl B.

I think he is talking about mounting a tweeter in the center of the Air Defusers/Deflectors, that set in front of the air outlet. You know the little chromed things... FWIW, Carl B.

But don't you have to cut the opening in the lower rear panel - wider - to mount the side by side? I would think that kind of limits the market for it. FWIW, Carl B.

Jim has a very rare bit of History there. Spook is short for "Spoiler and Air Scoop". SCCA Class rules did not allow "aerodynamic devices" - so BRE added a "Ducted Air Scoop" for Brake Cooling... which was allowed. :-) I believe the BRE Mark I Spook was revised to make it easier for mass production {lay-up and mold release } - thus the "new and improved" Mark II Spook. They also increased the width of the front lip a bit. FWIW, Carl B.

Let the fluid drain out at the slave Before You Change It. Take a clean rag and clean out the reservoir. Install the new slave. Then refill the resevoir and let clean fluid drain though the lines to the slave. I ususally let a cup or so drain though. Let it gravity bleed - keep the resevoir full - so you don't introduce air pockets in the line. Just put a catch pan under the slave and leave the bleed valve open. After you have put a cup or so though - close the bleed valve. FWIW, Carl B

The last I heard - if Rebello builds a 3.2L - it costs about $6500.00 to $8500.00. Properly set up - and tuned etc - 250HP to 275HP on pump gas - and the car should be a rocket!! So I would want to see the Invoice from Rebello for that engine. If there is no documentation with that engine - consider it BS. Rebello sells Parts - but "parts" don't make it a Rebello engine. If the seller has a pretty decent car with a properly installed Rebello 3.2L - then it will have had a lot of work done to the rear end and half shafts most likely. You would want to look into the closely. If it hasn't been done you can conside the cost of upgrading everything back there as well. If the seller has a pretty decent car with a properly installed Rebello 3.2L - I'd expect the asking price to be in the $12K to $14K range. Depending on the market area you are in {North America tells us nothing} - - the actual selling price might be below $10K - - all depends on every aspect of the car. Just some thoughts.. Carl B.

Carb's are missing - did you get them George? Center Console is missing - did you get them? What Size are the ARE Wheels? FWIW Carl B.

I had them on my 72 - in 72. Ran a set of slicks for Auto-crossing on them. Yes they are Appliance wire mesh mags. I've always like them as well. They were fairly high quality for the price back then. FWIW, Carl B.