Carl Beck

Jim has a very rare bit of History there. Spook is short for "Spoiler and Air Scoop". SCCA Class rules did not allow "aerodynamic devices" - so BRE added a "Ducted Air Scoop" for Brake Cooling... which was allowed. :-) I believe the BRE Mark I Spook was revised to make it easier for mass production {lay-up and mold release } - thus the "new and improved" Mark II Spook. They also increased the width of the front lip a bit. FWIW, Carl B.

Let the fluid drain out at the slave Before You Change It. Take a clean rag and clean out the reservoir. Install the new slave. Then refill the resevoir and let clean fluid drain though the lines to the slave. I ususally let a cup or so drain though. Let it gravity bleed - keep the resevoir full - so you don't introduce air pockets in the line. Just put a catch pan under the slave and leave the bleed valve open. After you have put a cup or so though - close the bleed valve. FWIW, Carl B

The last I heard - if Rebello builds a 3.2L - it costs about $6500.00 to $8500.00. Properly set up - and tuned etc - 250HP to 275HP on pump gas - and the car should be a rocket!! So I would want to see the Invoice from Rebello for that engine. If there is no documentation with that engine - consider it BS. Rebello sells Parts - but "parts" don't make it a Rebello engine. If the seller has a pretty decent car with a properly installed Rebello 3.2L - then it will have had a lot of work done to the rear end and half shafts most likely. You would want to look into the closely. If it hasn't been done you can conside the cost of upgrading everything back there as well. If the seller has a pretty decent car with a properly installed Rebello 3.2L - I'd expect the asking price to be in the $12K to $14K range. Depending on the market area you are in {North America tells us nothing} - - the actual selling price might be below $10K - - all depends on every aspect of the car. Just some thoughts.. Carl B.

Carb's are missing - did you get them George? Center Console is missing - did you get them? What Size are the ARE Wheels? FWIW Carl B.

I had them on my 72 - in 72. Ran a set of slicks for Auto-crossing on them. Yes they are Appliance wire mesh mags. I've always like them as well. They were fairly high quality for the price back then. FWIW, Carl B.

The answer is YES. The 72 Z's used the Type B tranny - Same as the 77 5spd. They both used the same Self Adjusting Slave Cylinder. They both use the same throw-out bearing fork - with NO hole in it. Of course you can use the 70/71 style Manually Adjustible Slave with the correct Fork - on any of the transmissions. FWIW, Carl B.

A 77/78 5spd which was freshly rebuilt by John Williams in Atlanta was installed with a new Clutch Assembly - about six months before Toyy bought the car from my son. It ran, drove and shifted as it should - all the components are correct. As I recall Tony has owned the car for what.. three or four years now. In that time I doubt he has put more than a few thousand miles on it. Look at how clean the tranny still looks in the pictures he posted. I don't see any signs of the slave leaking. As I recall the clutch system was filled with DOT 5 by the way. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Fred: I'm in Clearwater, just West of Tampa on the Gulf - be sure to check in if you move down. Carl B.

L26 with E88 head is the original configuration. There were at least 3 different configurations of the E88 castings. Very late model 71 240Z 1972 model 240Z The 73 240Z & 74 260Z The 71/72 E88 has the same combustion chamber design as the earlier E31 - only with larger volume The 73/74 E88 is a different combustion chamber design - mostly for emission control. The only way to tell them all apart is to look at the combustion chambers, and measure the volume. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/E31andE88Heads.htm FWIW, Carl B.

The Series I cars were sold/titled as both 1970 and 1971 Model Years. The Series II - or Late Model Year 1971 {started production in late Jan. 1971} had the same body, with the exception of the Fresh Air Exhaust Vents - that were moved from the rear deck to the Quarter Panels or Sail Panels. So no rigidity issues to worry about. The Fasteners on the 240Z's were mostly Japanese Industrial Standard metric. While the thread count and pitch is the same as the US metric fasteners - the accompanying Bolt Head / Wrench Size, of the nuts/bolts above 8mm, are a larger size than the JIS metrics. FWIW, Carl B.

Amazing what you can do by yourself - if you start, keep at it and don't worry a bit about how long it takes. Just keep at it - Good Luck Roger!! Enjoy every minute you spend working on it. Carl B.

Is this some kind of foreign language? Well at least he seems to have a Z now - Carl B.

But just to be clear. Under that off-set slotted mount - On the shaft that runs between the oil pump and distributor. There is a GEAR on that shaft that drives both the distributor and oil pump. So in effect, with the engine set at TDC on the compression stroke - you have to set the distributor off-set interface or keyway - to the position it is supposed to be in {11 & 5 O'clock} - - then install the oil pump on that drive shaft - without letting the drive shaft slip out and turn. Because it doesn't matter how the oil pump is turned when installed on the shaft at the bottom - just don't let the drive shaft turn out of position - as you install the oil pump. In this case it really helps to have someone on top holding everything in place, as you install the oil pump. hope that's not to confusing...

My 1962 Olds Starfire had a vacuum gauge mounted from the factory, on the center console. Owner's manual included instructions for readings. All the mechanics in the garages used vacuum gauges in the 50's - it was one of the first things they reached for when they had engine problems. I don't see them used so much anymore.. FWIW, Carl B.

My 1962 Olds Starfire had a vacuum gauge mounted from the factory, on the center console. Owner's manual included instructions for readings. All the mechanics in the garages used vacuum gauges in the 50's - it was one of the first things they reached for when they had engine problems. I don't see them used so much anymore.. FWIW, Carl B.

Sound like the clutch disk is rusted to the flywheel. We had a discussion here a few weeks back about how to break it free. You have to roll the car out on a street with no real traffic. Start the car and let it warm up so it is running fine, then shut it down, then put it in 1st gear. You have to get the car rolling in gear - by starting it in gear and letting it roll forward with a little throttle at about 20mph. Then you have to stop the rear wheels from turning while at the same time you hold the clutch pedal to the floor and apply more throttle. You stop the rear wheels from turning by using the E-Brake. You yank it up HARD. You may have to repeat that process a few times. FWIW, Carl B.

That looks great! I bought 3 from Les several years ago - From past experience I wanted to have a couple spares. Funny thing is that since I had spares on hand - I haven't destroyed the original. Maybe keep yours for "insurance" FWIW, Carl B.

He is planning on trailering it home anyway. At home he can drive it and enjoy it whenever his schedule allows - without worrying about conflicts with Les's schedule. He'll also have time to break it in and work any bugs out - close to home. Once you put them back together you usually find a few bugs/issues that need attention. 5, 50, 500 - drive it five miles away from home, then 5 miles back - and check everything. Then 50 miles away and 50 back - and check everything. "Then" take a 500 mile weekend trip with your wife.. FWIW, Carl B.

When is it not disengaging? If it is at start up - that you can't put it in gear - then the clutch may be fine - but the clutch disk is rusted to the flywheel - that happens in Florida when the car isn't driven for a few months. If the car starts - you can put it in gear and drive it - but the gears grind when you shift - then it could be a problem with the clutch master or slave. That is a 77-79 5spd - and it was professionally rebuilt a few months before you bought it. {John Williams in Atlanta}. FWIW, Carl B.

Short collar with thin pressure plate - the clutch will not disengage fully when you step on the clutch pedal. You'll grind gears when shifting, if you can get it in gear with the engine running to begin with. Long collar with thick pressure plate - the clutch will slip because the release bearing will always be putting some pressure on the clutch pressure plate fingers. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guy: I think that "A" - Automatic & 3.54 is a valid assumption. Should be a good rear gear with the 4 spd. Carl B.

Looks Great Guy - nice to have parts that aren't dented or all badly pitted to work with. I think you are enjoying this -.. Carl B.

Jerry - for God's Sake - 6 years you have been waiting - if the car is finally done, have it put on an enclosed carrier and sent to your house. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rolf - thanks for letting us know. I try to keep track of where the known Scarabs are. #154 is a very nice example! FWIW, Carl B.

Exactly - as I said above: "For that matter all the 240Z clutch pressure plates you get today are what were originally 280Z Pressure Plates". The original 240z Pressure Plates were "thick" - and the matching collars were short. The 280Z Pressure Plates are thinner than the original 240Z Pressure Plates - - so you have to use the longer 280Z collar. For many years - ZOOM and ZOOM though NAPA had kits that came with the complete clutch assy - and a new matching throw-out bearing collar. Sadly they no longer come with the collar.. FWIW, Carl B.