Carl Beck

The parts manual shows two small rivets - down where the license plate sits on hooks, near the bottom. FWIW, Carl B.

Where did you get that? 112 Yellow.

The finisher panels - Right, Center & Left have a lip that goes over the threshold {the area where the deck lid closes down}. All three are fastened to that threshold by small plastic rivets. The Right & Left tail light finisher panels overlap at their edges on top of the center section. You can order the small rivets from Nissan Parts. 08510-52097 Rivet-Plastic M5 From the parts catalog - it looks like there are two smaller rivets that go in the bottom of the center section of the finisher. Part # 79909-E4100 Rivet-Plastic M4 FWIW, Carl B.

Could be a bad fuel pump - but you would have to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to check it. There are no accel. pumps in the S.U.'s - so pumping the gas pedal should have no real effect - engine vacuum determines both quantity and fuel/air mix. Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks in/around the intake and carb.'s. Ignition and fuel problems have a way of looking like each other..

None of the colors shown on the web page you reference - look right to me.. If you can not order the paint from an automotive paint supplier using the Nissan Paint Code - 112; then take a panel to a local automotive paint supplier and ask them to "color match" it. You could take the cover from one of the tool storage area's, or perhaps use the inside of the gas filler door. If your car isn't 112 - then maybe you could buy a panel from someone in the US that is the correct color. Like an original tool storage access door. It is a very hard color to get right simply by looking at color chips. FWIW Carl B.

Cracked distributor cap? Faulty condenser? If they are not new, I'd change them just to rule them out. Did you rebuild the distributor? Or even disassemble and service it? Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on one of the supply lines - to see what pressure you have coming out of the pump? What else if anything have you measured or verified? What can we reasonably rule out?

TURN SIX SPRING Custom wound coil springs designed to lower your Z about 1". Increase spring rate decrease body roll, increase lateral acceleration in cornering and are progressively wound so there is no appreciable loss of ride characteristics. Durable rustproof epoxy finish. Set of 4 44-1513/1514 $139.95 as of March 1987 That would be 283.45 in todays reduced value USD's. Which means that someone stored them for 25 years and lost $233.45 in the process. FWIW, Carl B.

I've been driving 240Z's now for over 42 years. I've torn down, with others, perhaps as many as 30 L24's for rebuild. Many of the engines that needed rebuilding had over 150K miles on them. So far I have not really seen undue wear on the valve seats. We have been running "lead free" fuels in these engines since... when...lead was completely phased out in the US...1980?... I'm sure the phase out of Lead in gasoline has had "some" effect on the life of the valve seats in the L24's ... but I'm not convinced that the L24's suffer significant damage from lead's absence. So no - I've never used an additive to replace the lead. Different story with the high compression "Muscle Car" engines of the 60's and early 70's. I had to use Octane Booster in them. The engines I had ran 11:1 to 13:1 compression ratio's... If not octane booster, then I ran 50/50 Aviation Fuel{leaded} and high test lead free auto fuel. Just my experience.. FWIW, Carl

Don't see why it wouldn't start/run etc.. However I wouldn't want to bet that it would pass smog in CA. You would be pumping the fuel/air mix specified for an L28 - into the smaller volume of the L24 cylinders...and that might make it run very rich... I just don't know for certain.. You'll be down on torque/hp for a heavier car than the L24 was found int. It would also make it harder to resell if the need arises. You should be able to find a good L28 block in California - I'd do that... FWIW, Carl B.

This article could stand to be updated, but for now it may give you a little background. Big Sam got a new owner a couple years ago AIR. I think it sold for something like $125K USD.. in a very depressed economy. Far less than Nick spent restoring it. http://zhome.com/History/BigSam.htm FWIW, Carl B.

The spring was there - to hold the Clutch Fork firmly against the adjustment nut on that rod, when the clutch pedal was let out. So that there was no residual pressure holding the throw-out bearing against the Clutch Pressure Plate fingers. {kind of like "riding the clutch"} Without the return spring - the rod sticking though the hole in the sheetmetal Clutch Fork - "can" get in a slight bind...and thus be prevented from releasing all the way. Most likely not a problem for a car driven infrequently or less than a few thousand miles per year.. So I doubt it would be a problem with the self adjusting slave. You will however have to manually check the clutch adjustment every few thousand miles to assure that there is no pressure on the Clutch Fork when there isn't supposed to be. Because the adjustable rod will prevent the new slave from actually being "self adjusting". You could make a little bracket out of 18 gauge sheetmetal. Drill a hole big enough to slip one of the bolts that holds the salve on - though one end. Then drill a small hole for the spring in the other end. You could almost use a Pop-Top Tab from a beer can - but you get the picture... FWIW, Carl B.

First thing I'd do is clean the contacts between the oil sending unit and the wiring harness. A little emery paper and clean them to bright shinny copper. Then make sure there is a good tight fit between them. Check to make sure the wires aren't frayed/broken etc. If that doesn't help - replace the oil pressure sending unit. FWIW, Carl B.

The clutch slaves for the 70/71 Z's had adjustible clutch push rods - they need the return springs. For 72 Nissan went to a self adjusting slave - and they do not need a return spring. I've never used the newer slaves on the older cars - so I don't know if it would be a future problem or not. Can't think of any reason it would be... FWIW, Carl B.

You might want to call George Davis - he has a few Z's of his own. He's a friend of Jeff M. and mine and runs a transport company out of Orlando. At least get a quote from him. So far everyone I've sent to him has been very happy with the serivce. 863-551-1880 Office 863-412-1566 Cell Tell him I said hello.. FWIW, Carl B.

Is the car an A/T? Carl

Agreed - As Diseazd said; "Have them clean the bock"... Means - make sure your Machine Shop can "hot tank" the block.{some smaller machine shops that do not do a lot of engine work do not have the facilities to do this properly} Hot Tanking cleans the water and oil passages out. Very important on older blocks as they build up corrosion and crud on the internal passages - which you can not get too. They will also check the bores for roundness and taper.. Depending on the mileage and the care the engine has had - you'll find that about 3 out of 10 L28's for street use at this point - should be rebored. FWIW, Carl B.

The seats in the Series I & 2 {70 and 71} 240Z's are slightly different than the Series III {72} seats. The Series I & 2 seats had thick foam pads supported by rubber webbing. That webbing ran under the tubular frame of the seat bottom. The Series III seats used steel springs, to support the foam pads which sit on top of a jute pad. The foam then sits on top of that. The springs sit slightly higher up in the tubular frame of the seat bottom as well. There is no reason - that if you get the foam pads - which are made for the Series I & 2 cars - that the foam pads couldn't be made slightly "thinner" {less high} for proper fit in the Series III & IV {72 & 73 } cars. Order the stuff from Banzi - seat upholstery & foam pads - take your seats to a good auto upholstery shop - and have them take the seats apart. Then compare the thickness of the original pads to the replacement foam. If necessary they can trim the new pads. Ask the upholstery shop to call you when they have the seats taken completely apart. You may find rust staring to form on the metal parts. You may want to sand them down or wire brush the metal parts - then prime and repaint - before you have the new upholstery put back on. Around here most auto upholstery shops charge between $75.00 and $100.00 per seat to install your foam and upholstery. You can do it yourself - but it is hard to get them on without a bunch of wrinkles if you don't have a Steam Machine to work the vinyl. FWIW, Carl B.

08131-06510 Bolt-Fixing T/M to Engine 1 each 08131-06010 Bolt-Fixign T/M to Engine 3 each 08915-24010 Washer-Lock Fixing T/M to Engine 4 each Starter To Bell housing 08121-04510 Bolt-Hex M10x1.5 x 45 09121-03528 Bolt-Hex M10x1.5 x 35 08915-24010 Washer Spring 10 - 2 each 08915-44010 Washer Plain 10 - - 2 each FWIW, Carl B.

Time for an update on this thread http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread29498.html Did Katy get ahold of you? {the young lady that sold you her Grandmother's Z} Carl

Glad to help in any way I can - however I really know very little about the Z31's. Might be able to get you with someone that does. Feel free to drop me an E-Mail: beck@becksystems.com At Post #72 were you asking if Gus was going to be at a meet at Lake Worth May 20?? Carl B.

For anything other than showing the car in "STOCK" class - I'd stick with the S.U.'s. There are good reasons most people took the Flat Tops off. FWIW, Carl B.

There was no expansion tank - but there should be a hose from the radiator overflow nipple over to the side of the radiator and down to the bottom. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: OK - clear enough. I guess I can't answer your question. I've never removed a tank with any intention of saving the old filler neck. Most of the time the reason for removing the tank was to replace a cracked filler neck to begin with - and other times if I had to remove the tank for some reason I intended to replace the filler neck while I was at it anyway. Because as they age they get brittle - then crack. FWIW, Carl B.

$47,100.00 and the reserve is not meet. Wonder how high someone would go? Fully restored to correct spec.'s they can bring $125K to $175K depending on who is present at Auction. It would take $80K to $100K to have it restored.. Maybe someone that can do most of the needed work themselves will pay more than $50K for it... as is... FWIW, Carl B.

I did not need an adaptor - I used two ballets resistors on my 72 240Z. Don't know what else you would need for a 280Z. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/MalloryDist.htm FWIW, Carl B.