Carl Beck

I should think that almost any Automotive Electric Shop that rebuilds starters and alternators could rebuilt it for you. Should be some in your local area. Just be sure to explain clearly how you want it to look when its done - make sure they understand you are rebuilding it for a correct restoration.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Frank: HLS30 15653 was last reported as having a Date Of Manufacturer of 12/70, with Original Engine serial number L24-021132. Your signature line still shows 10/70. Does the Data Plate on the drivers door jamb now show 10/70?

Agreed! If you want to keep the "stock" or "original" look of your radiator - just have it re-cored with the 3 or 4 row core, keeping your original top tank with the finger guard and bottom tank. All that said - the most effective items I've found to reduce engine operating temps. here in Florida are; 1) changing to synthetic oil and 2) adding Redline "Water Wetter" to the coolant. FWIW, Carl B.

If your radiator has the little "finger guard" or "safety guard" it is most likely the original radiator. Most the after market replacements don't have them. As I recall Nissan called it a "splash guard", which might give some indication of it's original purpose. It didn't seem to provide any noticable effect on cooling on any of the 240Z's I have them on. No - you don't need it for everyday driving. FWIW, Carl B.

No the 72's did not come with the fan shroud. I ordered mine over the Parts Counter when I installed the Dealer A/C kit in 72. They do aid a bit in relation to engine cooling during low speed operation. FWIW, Carl B.

I was about to ask Frank to check the Date Of Manufacture - Looks like #15368 should be 12/70. I could understand it being built a month or two later - but very odd to have one number two months earlier than the normal sequence. #15189 is a Vintage Z with build date of 11/70... the highest VIN so far for 11/70.. Nonetheless very nice looking Z!! FWIW, Carl B.

Read this Post.... then stop by Home Depot and pick up the needed parts.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread46013.html Pull the drive shaft and cap the end of the tranny off....good to go..

Neat Idea. I use the plastic caps from certain rattle can's - some are the exact size to slide into the tail shaft housing. I like your idea better.. makes a nice seal.. thanks' Carl B.

Hi Gus: Time for a progress report... FWIW, Carl B.

For the fender - Get a gallon of Mineral Spirits or Kerosine.... or for that small an area get a gallon of Diesel Fuel {which is about the same as Kerosine}... Soak the undercoating down and scrub it with a ScotchBrite Pad - it will wash right off. FWIW, Carl B.

Having pulled the center dash finisher, the heater control panel, the heater & blower motor out last week - I disassembled, cleaned, sanded, Ospho'd then primed & painted the heater box assembly. Today I'll be putting new seals in and re-assembling it. Heater core and heater control valve are in excellent condition!! Now all I have to do is find the new heater hoses I bought last year!

I've seen a couple of them - they were well made. One owner here in Clearwater had one, haven't seen him in quite a few years. As I recall there was an article about them in one of the old Z Car Club Of America newsletters. Nonetheless they are rare today... There was also another manufacturer that offered a fiberglass bucket seat arrangement that fit in the same way. FWIW, Carl B.

Zedyone_kenobi I think you are having waaay to much fun with this!! I'd also guess that by now you have spent at least as much on your Z as you originally paid for it. Another sign of serious addiction... Next step - - individual throttle bodies with F.I.... Yes, the path you have chosen always leads to a next step... When you run out of things to do to your Z - - - - you'll be looking for a 911 next... At any rate -keep up the good reports. FWIW, Carl B.

The hassle of towing it home - might be far less than the hassle of smelling your entire wiring harness burn up on the road. When a fusible link melts down - it is usually, not always but usually something seriously wrong in the electrical system. Individual fuses blow on the branch circuits with minor shorts or overloads caused by resistance/corrosion. The fusible links blow more or less as a last resort to save the entire wiring harness. Replacing the fusible link without first finding what caused it to blow in the first place - can be very risky. Personally I'd buy the car if I wanted it - I'd tow it home, then take my time to go over the electrical system with the proper test equipment. Might save a lot of additional headaches that way... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: There is an answer to a question there now - - 1/79. So these wouldn't be of much use to anyone wanting date correct wheels for their 240Z. Maybe good for someone restoring a 280ZX-R. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Arne: I'd go a little farther than that even. Not only were they never factory installed for North America - they were never shipped from the factory to the U.S. via Nissan's Parts System. I tried to order the Optional 5.5" wheels from Nissan in 1970, 71, 72, 73 and finally gave up in 1974. I worked for a Datsun Dealer in 71, 72, 73 & 74 and the Parts Managers did everything they could to try to get a set of the subject wheels shipped from Japan... it never happened. For several years as "Vintage or Historic" racing gained popularity in the 90's - we tried again to find any documentation that a single set had ever been sent to the US. So that the Z's could run wider wheels against the competing Porsches / Madza's etc. Again no luck. Narrow wheels and relatively small brakes put the 240Z's at a disadvantage against newer model competitors in venues where they had to run "stock" spec.'s Ron Johnson {Nissan competition Parts} sent me the following from his research back in the 90's - - Quote - - - The 5.5" optional steel rim (40300-E4600) was first shown as a option in the 12/71 update of the (US) Z parts book. It was carried thru subsequent updates until 12/72 when it was shown as "out of production". There is remained until the 12/75 update when its reference was deleted entirely. A Datsun in-house memo (dated June 2, 1970) indicates that the " ..... optional wheels have passed the FMVSS standards." Also, if you look on the spec page of the 1970 Z sales brochure (dated 2/70), you will note that the 5.5" rims are shown as an option. FYI, suggested list price for the 5.5" rim in 1970 was $13.50 each ($US). RJ - - - - -End Quote - - - - - - The Nissan Sports Option Catalog 1973 shows a "Road Wheel" PN 40300-E4200 5 1/2J x 14. Again, we never had any luck getting a set sent though the Nissan Parts system to the US. FWIW, Carl B.

If you don't have a Redline Dealer and you don't want to order it - - you can also use Royal Purple Max-Gear. Many of the National auto parts stores carry it in local stock. It is a few more bucks - but I don't like waiting of stuff to be shipped.. http://www.royalpurple.com/product-categories/automotive/#!max-gear GL-4 & GL-5 .. safe for yellow metals.. etc. FWIW Carl B.

It might make a difference. The three pulley system is there to support the addition of an A/C compressor. When these Dealer Installed systems were introduced - the third pulley was added, but the original bolt was put back in place. The end result was that the original bolt was now too short to get as much purchase in the crank as it needed - and over time many of them came loose and backed out. That usually resulted in the damper pulley being damaged and/or the key way in the crank being damaged. The "solution" was to take the original bolt out - before it backed itself out - and replace it with a slightly longer one - that was also slightly larger in diameter. Thus the crank had to be re-threaded, the larger bolt in stalled, and torqued to higher loads. It was also recommended that a thread lock {aka Locktite} be used. If there is a larger bolt in there - you may have to buy a deep well, thin wall socket from one of the higher quality tool suppliers. They have thinner walls that are also stronger than most consumer brands. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Hardway: - OK - what is short, or what is long -the length of the studs or the length of the sleeves on the studs?? In your picture the "sleeves" on the replacement studs are longer or shorter. The actual length of the studs look about the same. In that case, I'm pretty sure the six with longer sleeves go though the top of the intake manifold. I'll look to see if I have some original OEM type to compare. The newer replacement part are not exactly the same... but should work fine. The one that is between sizes - is the one on the rear of the exhaust manifold - where the engine sling bracket goes. The last ten go everywhere else. As I recall - The shorter end of the studs screws into the head everywhere. Be sure to get nuts/washers on all the studs, while everything is loosely fit - before you start to tighten them down. If the actual threaded ends of a couple of them are longer than the original OEM studs - they might be sticking out too far with the manifolds pushed up against the head tight. This is especially true with some headers and/or Cannon manifolds for triple carbs. Tighten them down evenly from the center working toward both ends equally. I'd use some locktite on them. It will help prevent them from welding themselves to the aluminum head - and help prevent them from backing out when you try to take any of the nuts off them in the future. FWIW, Carl B.

Nice looking Z - from 10 feet away. The close up's however of the data plates that weren't removed when the car was repainted aren't encouraging to an expectation of having had quality work done. I mean if a guy is too lazy to take four screws out - to remove the data plate under the hood - before re-spraying the inner-fender.. it has to make you wonder where else needless short-cuts were taken. Like most of these cars - you really have to see them in person to see what the paint and body actually look like... That or you have to believe you'll have to have them repainted yourself. Agree - might be worth taking a look if you are in the area. FWIW, Carl B.

If your Z was equipped with Dealer Installed A/C - - - the original crank pully bolt may have been replaced with one with a larger size head. Other than that - what Bonzi Lon said - should fit.

Hi Jerry: Sorry to hear about the surgery - but glad to hear you seem to be doing fine. Are the carb's going on your 72? or are you keeping #29? FWIW, Carl B.

Oh..yes Chris - thanks for reminding me. That's $52.40 includes an extra charge for vanity tags. I'll have to go check one of the other 240Z's ... but it wasn't much for the vanity tag as I recall.

Here in Florida - Cars over 25 years old - $52.40. Until the financial melt down - and the loss of revenue from property taxes - these plates were about $15.00 per year. Transfering a title used to around $15.00 and now it's $125.00. Getting a new license plate used to cost around $25.00 for the initial registration - now it's $225.00 as I recall. On the other hand - when I bought my 72 new in Washington State - a new registration & plate cost over $85.00 there. When I moved here to Florida in 73 - a new registration and plate cost $15.00. FWIW, Carl B.

Heat = too much resistance. Too much resistance in the loose and corroded fuse terminal on one end. Yes - a dead short will draw too much current and because the wires are too small to carry it - they get hot, and in a good circuit the fuse will blow. If there is no fuse between the battery and the short in the circuit - then the wires will melt. FWIW, Carl B.