Carl Beck

Hi Frank: I'm very glad to hear that you are OK - but very sorry for your loss. That is a real shame.. Carl B.

MSA has the heater core "listed" but when you call they usually don't have any. Not even at $299.00. With some aftermarket heater cores they are the same form, fit and function - but the inlets/oulets may be slightly different shape - which means you may have to modify or replace the heater hoses.. I would rather have OEM - - - but lacking that - - then I would rather have a new aftermarket replacement than have to put a 40 year old heater core back in... FWIW, Carl B.

Might see it flipped again... at $15K/$16K... seems that demand is picking up...

and Any way you look at it - bids up to $45K at Mecum are pretty surprising. A happy surprise for many I'm sure.

Hi E: Good observation - an older version was being loaded. Fixed the code - latest update was 22 Mar. 2011. Only a couple more reported "found". thanks, Carl B.

508 in Feb Pretty close - 5870 in the first half Pretty close - 12,081 17,951 Well - somewhat indirectly from the production plant. Kats was given pictures of the production schedule boards several years ago. FWIW, Carl B.

No mention of the actual mileage - but if it checks out to be rust free - with its original factory applied paint.. might be a bargain for someone. Certainly sounds like it is worth a look...

http://zhome.com/Racing//72OMSZColor.jpg Dunlop Wheels made in England. I tried to get a set in 1972 - BAP/GEON showed a listing for them - but they were not US DOT approved and they could not or would not order them at the time. FWIW, Carl B.

A couple years ago - I took an original set of springs to an automotive speciality shop - that had a spring rate measurement device. The set was off a 1970 240Z with about 80K original miles. All four springs checked out to be within the factory spec. Age doesn't seem to be much of a factor - but I'm sure that wear/tear are. It is possible to have springs that are sagging due to fatigue.. I'd measure their Free Length and if within the Factory Spec. - they are most likely OK. While it is hard, you can measure their compressed lenght - while on the car. The results would also give you a clue. The measurements can be found in the Factory Service Manuals. This is a good article on how to replace the stub axle bearings. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html If you have strut off the car - I've had luck heating the strut - then using a large brass hammer and piece of heavy steel plate - to pound the stub axle out from the inside. Make sure you leave the stub axle nut in place at the to of the treads. On one strut - I had to take it to friends 20 Top Press - and even then we had to heat the strut. Most of the time the above will work. Using wood - isn't effective. The wood absorbs/dissipates too much of the energy from the hammer blows. A large heavy brass hammer is most effective. FWIW, Carl B.

See the Pictures on the BRE2.net Web Site http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=bre2_510s_shop_floor_upper&Category_Code=brearchivephotos510s Looks like it could be the Customer Car build by BRE for customer in Jamaica. But it would take a lot more inspection to be sure.. FWIW, Carl B.

Here is one taken 42 years later - Mr. Brock with one of the 68 BRE Baja 510's. http://zhome.com/BRE/PeterWithBaja68510.jpg

Yes - that is my BRE Z - and it looks like a reflection off Greg Ira's GT-R. Neat picture.. Yes - that was at the Lake Mirror Concours in Lakeland, FL. Beautiful setting, wonderful event and really great people. If you are ever in Florida - this is a "must attend" event each year. Looks like I was cleaning the rear wheel... Here is one for you - Peter Brock with the Baja 510's in 1968 http://zhome.com/BRE/RamseyBrock68510.jpg

Vaccum or mechanical advance in the old distrubutor - maybe. Do not change two things at once. If you get a new distributor put it in first - see what happens. Then change the carb's if you like. I always keep a spare - "known good" distributor for things like this. It is usually one of the first things I try. FWIW, Carl B.

Parts Catalog for the L28E - shows 01121-00061 Bolt Hex 8 required Courtesy shows them in stock as mentioned above.

Hi Pat: The Datsun Dealership that I worked at in 73 put the competition hood vents on only 2 out of several hundred 73 240Z's. It is a very rare Dealer modification to say the least. Yours is the first one done by a Dealer - that I've seen in the past couple decades. Must be a very low mileage example - Yes/No? FWIW, Carl B.

Just my opinion - but $9,400.00 for this green Z in Harrisburg - was a super buy - a bargain - for a buyer in the East. That's like paying $7,900.00 for one on the West Coast and having it shipped back East... Seems to be a pretty complete and fairly straight Series I car to serve as the basis for a complete high quality restoration - pretty hard to find today East of the Mississippi. Good pictures and seems to be a knowledgeable description of the car as well. FWIW, Carl B

No - see picture below: It wasn't really so much a "competition" hood vent - as it was a last ditch effort to get certain 73 240Z's to run with the emissions carb's. - when all other fuel system modifications failed to work to the customers satisfaction. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - "check the tightness" - means use a torque wrench and set them to the higher end of the torque spec. Even though the nuts on the studs that go though the mustache bar are of the "self locking" type - I remove them and apply locktite to the threads - then torque them down. Another "clunk" cause can be bushings that are shot or bolts/nuts lose on the inside /outside of the lower control arms.In which case you will hear them sliding fore/aft. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dennis: See: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/nissan-350z-concept-cars3.htm and http://www.autoworld.com/news/Nissan/Z_Returns.htm FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Les: Really nice to see the Camel GT Pace Car back in its correct livery. Back in the Day - At Daytona, they had a Camel GT Tent set up - within which they had "challenges" for adults and kids. The kids raced RC cars on a track they had set up - and the adults could try their hand at a "Pit Stop Tire Change". They had a Z mockup with front and rear racing tires mounted. You had to take one off - and put another one on {either end}. If you beat the clock - you got a prize. Here are my "Official" Camel GT Driving Gloves... rewarded for a "Quick Pit Stop Tire Change". If you were "quicker than me" - you got a Camel GT Cooler and Emergency Road Kit. I missed that by a couple seconds every time... FWIW, Carl B.

The 72 240Z's started production in Sept - at HLS30 46000. HLS30 51391 would have an Oct. build date. The horizontal defroster lines started in Jan. 72 production cars at HLS30 62001. So there were about 16,000 1972 Model Year 240Z's with vertical defroster lines. Look like a pretty decent Z - in the East it should go for over $10K at least. Most likely will still need another $3K to $5K to really put it in shape for trusted long road trips. FWIW, Carl B.

Nice trailer - higher end model - nicely finished inside etc. What is everyone using to tow these loaded trailers? I was using a Chevy 1/2 ton, Crew Cab... now I'm using a Chevy 3/4 ton - 2500HD Crew Cab, 2wd. The longer wheel base and heavier truck - makes towing far less hassle. But not as user friendly in town. Most any truck will tow these things - it's STOPPING you have to be concerned with! I'd like to go back to a smaller lighter truck - thus one of the reasons to use a smaller and lighter weight trailer. Backing these things up is no breeze for me either - FWIW, Carl B.

Wonder if one could fit that fiberglass Z body over a Superformance Cobra Replica chassis. http://www.superformance.com/mkIII_specs.aspx http://www.superformance.com/mkiii/mkIII_specs/chassis_front.jpg and http://www.superformance.com/mkiii/mkIII_specs/chassis_rear.jpg Interesting...

Hi gnosez: My thoughts exactly. I've considered a Pop-top, a Gull Wing top {where the top and a section of the sides opens from a long hinged center} and even having the entire enclosure raise up off the flat bed... Looking into using aluminum or Fiberglass honeycomb Sandwich panels - as well as a full up custom fiberglass enclosure. The trailer pictured - came up on CraigsList a few months ago - Someone had ordered a custom aluminum trailer for his Pantera in 07, but then the customer went bankrupt in the 08 crash before the trailer was done... The trailer manufacture went bankrupt the following year. The manufacturer had about $3000.00 at his cost - in labor and materials in the unfinished trailer ... and wanted to get something back out of it. So bought it mostly for a prototype platform for $1500.00. It's all aluminum, torsion axles, surge disk brakes etc. It was intended to have a low load height. The entire exterior frame is 3.5"x5.5" aluminum "I" beam, the cross braces are 3"x5" "I" beams. It is presently 20' long point to tail - and was going to be a V-Nose. I may shorten it to 16' deck length + V nose. Deck is 82" outside of the frame to outside of the frame. So in the next few months - I'll be talking to a few fabrication shops and a couple of manufacturers of big fiberglass boats in the area - to see what a custom enclosure would cost... I want to keep the weight under 1700 lbs - the axles are rated at 3,500 lbs each. Might be far less expensive to just buy the Montrose trailer and be done with it...I just wish it was a more attractive and aerodynamic body design... You really don't want 90 degree edges on a trailer and the nose should slop forward toward the truck - the more you can fill in the gap between the truck and the trailer the less turbulence you have to deal with. {aka Bubble Nose}. BTW - with a low profile trailer there is no need to get in the car, nor to be able to stand up straight and walk about it. You load them with a two way power wench and remote control.. ease them off the same way - with the wench letting them out easily. Of course if one is hauling a race car - you need more room for tires/tools/fuels etc. But I'm just using it for Concours Events.. and Club Meets etc. Additionally - with a low profile - I can store it beside the garage, behind a 6' privacy fence. {legally here in my neighborhood}. Maybe I could come up with something that Montrose could build using their techniques - at the same price point - only with a few modifications.... There would seem to be at least a small market for a single purpose car hauler - for sports cars being shown - not raced. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jerry: I currently have a 20' V-nose. I've been pretty happy with the trailer itself - but pulling it down the road is like pulling the side of a barn though the air. Given the experience I've had with it - I'd like something smaller, lighter and lower profile. BRE has the right idea, and Peter has designed a very attractive trailer. Low profile with about 16.5' interior length. For the limited use I have - personally I just can't justify putting $24K into a trailer. {although the thought has crossed my mind several times} I may either build my own custom design - - - - or perhaps just go buy one. In either case it will be all aluminum, no longer than 18' and have a low profile. I don't want the top of the trailer any taller than the top of my truck. I looked at a couple of these at various car shows - and owners seem to be pretty happy with them. 16' deck length - 82" wide deck, torsion axles, electric brakes, aluminum wheels, 62.5" interior height, 10' load ramps. They can be made to your spec.'s if you want one longer/narrower etc. See pictures 33 though 36 http://www.montrosetrailers.com/gallery/automobile_trailers/MVC_004F This trailer is made in Mich. - retail as shown for a 16' is $9454.00 at the factory. Shipping can be $1.25 per mile if they ship it - or you can arrange your own pickup.. However I feel that they could be made far more aerodynamic with a little effort. A big PLUS with this unit is that it has great access to strap the car down, as well as ease of entry/exit from the car. It also has smooth surfaces - no exterior screws/rivets, which makes it far easier to clean/maintain. The typical 20' V nose, in steel frame/aluminum exterior , wood deck and interior - will run anywhere from $4500.00 to $6500.00 depending on exact type of build and interior finish. In good shape used around here they aren't much less either. Add about $500.00 for a weight distribution/anti-sway hitch. FWIW, Carl B.