Carl Beck

Visit http://HybridZ.org and SEARCH & READ everything before you Post Questions there that have already been answered in depth. good luck, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Sorry - I haven't been following this. Spent most of my spare time these last several months - finishing up a restoration on a 73 240Z for a friend. Originally - I was answering a question by the Original Poster, located in Kuwait. I supplied the Nissan Part Numbers and info from Nissanparts.cc - - mostly to show that the numbers were good. I suggested that he see if a local Nissan Dealer could special order the parts from Japan. Many parts listed as No Longer Available here in the U.S. and some in Canada - are no longer available here, only because of the Inventory Control Software used in the US and/or Canada prevents reordering certain parts from Japan. We went though this with the OEM Door Panels - that had been listed as NLA here in the US for years - only to find later that they could still be ordered and received in Canada. So if you get NLA on parts here in the US - it sometimes pays to check sources in Canada. Likewise if you are outside North America - - it sometimes pays to check with your local Nissan Parts Dept. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Rob: Yes - that was at the Lake Mirror Classic Concours - in Lakeland, Florida a couple months ago. It is a wonderful event, it was a perfect day and lots of really neat Classic / Collectible and Special Interest Cars there. There were about 125 Cars invited to the Concours Event which is held around Lake Mirror; and several hundred Classic/Collectible and Special Interest cars on display throughout the downtown area. Perhaps one of the best organized and operated events I've been to in recent years. Seems that everyone in town was involved and volunteering to help. Even the Police Department. Yes - looks like someone put the Display Sign on the car while I was out looking at the rest of the field - the signs kept blowing over... Someone else must have moved it back to the ground before I returned. FWIW, Carl B.

THAT is the way to buy them - good for you! .. I'm sure you will be very happy with it -it is an exceptional Z. FWIW, Carl B.

HI Greg: I would love to be there - and I'll do my best to make it happen. This is perhaps one of the most enjoyable events of the year.. Carl

Hi Bob: Good to hear from you. Your Z really looks great and I'm sure you had a ball running in such great company. Tell us where you found the car and how long it has taken to get it ready for track duty again. How about some pictures of the engine compartment and interior - and tell us more about the research you did in order to get the car back to its period correct current configuration etc. Is this the car that ran at Daytona as well? FWIW, Carl

Hi Gusbo: Very very nice - I like it a lot FWIW, Carl B.

Hi RIP260Z: I'm sure you have very valid points there. This discussion thread was started two years ago - and long before that and since that - we've had many very involved discussions on the subject of Mr. Goertz's involvement or influence. For that matter the involvement or influence of others as well. I have to say that over the years - as Kats has brought ever more inside information, gathered from ever more sources present on the design teams... it has been ever more difficult to capture more than just the essence of the story - in any way that isn't subject to refute by someone. My mind has changed back and forth on several specifics - - and I'll take a look at the article you reference on the Z Car Home page - perhaps it's time to simply delete any mention of Goertz. As for past discussion - they are just that - past discussions - and yes there are lots of conflicting thoughts and opinions from year to year. FWIW, Carl B.

Part Number from the old Nissan Parts Catalog: Nissan Part Number 85002-E4125 Bumper-Rear Center {std less hole} Nissan Part Number 85003-E4125 Bumper-Rear Side RH {std less hole} Nissan Part Number 85004-E4125 Bumper-Rear Side LH {std less hole} Part Numbers From NissanParts.cc on-line: Part # Description List Unit Price Price 85002-E4125 Bumper-rear-cen$196.02 $149.36 $149.37 85005-N3400 A Bmpr Rr Rh $113.85 $86.75 $86.75 85006-N3400 A Bmpr Rr Lh $113.85 $86.75 $86.75 Subtotal: $322.87 FWIW, Carl B.

To an extent - the answer to your question depends on which intake manifold you are using. In brief there are two different types - One with Long Intake Runners {ie Cannon}, and another with Short Runners. Air/Fuel ratios are one thing - but the velocity of the air flow is also a critical factor in getting the best mixture into the cylinders. The typical Cannon Long intake runner manifolds seem to work best with sizes 36mm or smaller. Low end performance is supported by the 34's - if your going for top speed the 36's seem to be the way. FWIW Carl B.

Picked up a perfect NOS example at the ZCON 2011 - for my 240Z. Trouble is that it is so pretty it might just become "Wall Art"..... Made the entire trip just that much more enjoyable... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Andy: Sounds like you are building a nice collection of fun and interesting cars. Hope you aren't too tall - that S800 can be pretty cramped. I bought my first Datsun 240Z from "Valley Datsun" in Spokane 14 March 1970. Now it's Jaremko Nissan. Paul and his son still race a 2.0L roadster - Paul has been racing Datsun's since 1963. Spokane is a beautiful area and the Pacific Northwest is great country for Sports/GT's to be enjoyed. Keep us Posted on your progress on the 260Z... FWIW, Carl B.

No matter how old - it is an interesting list of cars to buy. Many are reasonabily priced today... 1965 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GT - I've always loved the Styling of these. 1968 American Motors AMX - Had a 69 - neat looking - lumber wagon. 1970 BMW 2002 - neat cars - I'd buy one if it was restored properly and and if the price was very very right. Otherwise I'd rather have a 510. 1965 Chevrolet Corvair Monza coupe - If you buy a Corvair - you'd want a convertible or Corsa. I've had several - they are always fun. Still quite inexpensive - but for reasons... 1964 Pontiac GTO convertible - I'd want the 2dr. Post sedan. Lightest body. One of the best US produced cars I've ever driven - just pure FUN and fast as hel... 1963 Studebaker Avanti R-1 - I'd want the R2 and today you can pick a fairly good one for less than $25K. Really nice R-1's are out there in this suppressed market for less than $18K Beautiful styling, almost unique in design... Still a car you can drive with decent A/C... Given their very limited production to begin with - I'm always amazed that these haven't appreciated far more than they have. As I recall the R2's were close to $5,000.00 new in 1963... so they were relatively expensive then. Any of them would be a better hedge against inflation than cash setting in a savings account... FWIW, Carl B.

Cleaning my White 72 up - after its road trip to Savanna. About 800 miles round trip..some rain, some bug guts.. Noticed that the rubber on the windshield wipers were crumbling with age. So off to the parts store for refills. FWIW, Carl B.

I see the car is already sold - but FEOI. Is the car for sale in Florida? Several States do not require a Title for cars over a certain age - usually it's 20 years. So for example if you bought the car in Georgia - and received only a Bill Of Sale and older Registration Slip - Florida would issue a title after the car was inspected by DMV, Police Officer, Notiary Public, or Auto Dealer.. Changing a title in Florida used to cost $15.00 up untill about 5 years ago -now it is $125.00 title fee. As others have mentioned - it's not hard to get a title - just gets expensive!! You also take the risk that the car was stolen... and at some point the VIN may show up on the wrong computer system... Always the best rule is - NO TITLE - NO SALE. Let the seller deal with it... FWIW, Carl B.

Given the description of the problem - I'd say it is most likely the lower differential mount is on backward. We don't know if he took the mustache bar off at this point.... It has quite a bit of play when it's 30+ years old. It can be quite tight when using a new strap. The strap is there to prevent upward movement of the front of the differential. If the front of the differential moves up a bit too far - it breaks the rubber lose on the lower mount. The strap works with the lower mount -the lower mount prevents downward movement and side to side movement. You need both in OEM condition. If I had to drive without the strap - I'd drive very easy until it could be replaced. Letting the nose of the differential move up/down will case other components to losen or wear. A fairly easy alternative is to use in place of the OEM Strap - is the method that SCARAB used. A simple bracket that wraps around the bottom of the cross member - and connects to the top metal on the OEM differential mount - with rubber bumper between. See: http://www.zhome.com/rnt/Scarab/ScarabTorqueControl.htm FWIW, Carl B.

Nissan Part Number 62650-E4103 Assy-Front Bumper {less rubber hole} http://nissanparts.cc http://www.nissanparts.cc/cart/?pn=62650-E4103 Quantity Part # Description List Unit Price Price 62650-E4103 Bumper Front $406.70 $315.07 $315.08 Subtotal: $315.08 Usually ships in 4-10 business days USA Ground Shipping $37.81 See if a local Nissan Dealer can special order the part from Japan. I do not know if NissanParts.cc will ship overseas. FWIW, Carl B.

Correct. The mounts on the bumper and the bumper brackets are different. 73 front bumper brackets are quite a bit heavier/stronger than the 70-72 versions. If you have a 70-72 bumper - just use the 70-72 bumper brackets. If you want to keep the stock 73 look - then you'll need to get a 73 bumper as it mounts to the 73 brackets in a different manor. FWIW, Carl B.

I've used Hagerty for all my Classic, Collectible and Special Interest cars for about 30 years now - would not think of changing. The Hagerty was the first Classic Car Insurer that would even issue an Agreed Value policy on Datsun 240Z's. I made arrangements with them to insure the Original Owners of Datsun 240Z's back in the late 80's. At that point I think we had about 10 people on the Original Owners Register. Today Hagerty insures most of our Z Car Original Owners Register - 240Z's. Now some 175 of us. Plus about 500 other Datsun Z & ZX owners. Z Car Original Owners Register http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/original.htm FWIW, Carl B.

I departed Clearwater, Florida at about 1:30 AM Wednesday and arrived at the Convention Hotel at about 7:30 AM some 356 miles later. The Freeways were pretty clear during those hours -and it was a LOT COOLER then as well. Normal cruise was in the 80 mph to 85 mph range {sometimes above that}. My white 72 ran like a clock, very smooth and very stable. All-in-all it was a very enjoyable drive to say the least. On the return leg, I left the hotel at about 2:30AM Saturday morning.. and was home here in Clearwater by 9:00 AM {fog in the Northern part of Florida slowed the return leg}. The Convention Hotel was great - best shower and beds I've have experienced in a hotel in years. No water savers in the shower heads!! In room WiFi could have been better... As you can see from the pictures posted by others - lots of beautiful Z's to see and enjoy. Lots of great people to meet and hang out with. A fifteen minute "free" Fairy ride and you were in the heart of old Savannah - with lots of shops, places to eat and drink. Most very reasonable in price as well. The highlight of this years convention was of course Bob Sharp. Bob held briefings in a conference room beside the Car Show Floor several times. He told us a bit about his history and how he became a Race Driver and Datsun Dealer. Followed by lots of interesting and funny stores about the early days. Bob and his wife were a pure pleasure to be with and I'm sure that everyone really enjoyed meeting and talking with them. Bob was truly amazed at the number and condition of the Z's present. He fully recognized the time, effort and money needed to restore or build these cars and bring them to the Convention. Hats off to Will for putting together a wonderful time for all of us, at a really great site. FWIW, Carl B.

I'll be there - with several guys from Florida. I'll be driving up late at night - when the temp. is below 90 degrees and highways are clear!! Should be there very early Wednesday morning. Looking forward to seeing everyone.. Carl B.

and Hi Guys: It might be more productive to consider "durability" than "reliability". We would have to agree that how reliable any car is - at any point in time - would depend on how faithfully its owner maintained it according to the manufacture's recommendations. However there can be a large difference in durability between different models from the same manufacturer, or different models from different manufacturers. After 40 years on the highways of America in the hands of American drivers - the 240Z has proven itself to be highly durable. The FIAT X 1/9's.... not so much. I'd say that they are fragile by comparison in typical use or abuse here. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't know why anyone would bother with a Fiat X 1/9 for $5K - when you can find a very solid 1990+ Toyota MR2 or perhaps MR2 Turbo - for just a couple thousand more. I sold FIAT, DATSUN and SABB in the early 70's and VW / FIAT & Lancia in 75... I'd avoid buying any Fiat - short of the 2.0L 124 Spyders - - even then it takes a careful and caring owner. If your looking for a street rod project - swap the Toyota's MR2 turbo engine and drive train into a less expensive X 1 1/9... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guy: Don't forget to "black out" that area behind the grill... before you get too far on the assembly. ;-) Everything looks stunning... Carl B.

The Facet Part Number is FEP60SV. I bought mine from the local NAPA store - they have their own NAPA part number for it - but they can use the Facet Number to cross-reference to the NAPA part number. Or you can shop on-line. It's around $99.95 to $108.00 depending on where you buy it.