Carl Beck

Hi Dave: Great pictures and very nice welding on thin metal. Your local metal guy would seem to know what he is doing. Your tank looks nice and clean inside - We all know that water and gasoline don't mix.. so rinsing a tank out with water seldom removes all the old gasoline trapped in the varnish, crud, corrosion and rust in an old gas tank. Most professional shops, use chemical rinses mixed specifically to remove them, so they don't act as a sponge for gasoline and its vapors. You can rinse a gas tank out ten times with water and the old gas varnish will still be there. Filling the tank after its cleaned, with an inert gas is a good procedure as well. That would reduce the chance of flash rust forming on the welded area's - before you could treat them, or refill the tank with gasoline. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi grantf: I seriously doubt that you were. You never know who is lurking on the site, that might take everything at face value and proceed without thinking every aspect of an operation though. I'll be 66 this year and I've lost track of the number of times I've done something really stupid, when I actually knew full well that it should NOT be done and for what reasons. I just didn't think about it at the time. FWIW, Carl B.

My experience running the 280Z radiators would not support that. I've ran them in 240Z's since the late 70's and I've never had one damaged. Anything that will reach the area a couple inches below the bottom of the radiator core support - will also tear out the steering rack and front cross member.. FWIW, Carl B.

I'd recommend either a rebuilt and re-cored 240Z radiator, which has been built with 3 or 4 cores - replacing the original 2 or a 280Z rebuilt the same way radiator. True that the 280Z radiator extends below the radiator core support on the 240Z's - but is only a inch or two - and still well above the steering rack. These now 38+ year old L24's require far more cooling capacity than they did when new, and they had marginal cooling capacity even then. FWIW, Carl B

A shop that knows what they are doing - might use processes and procedures to limit the possibility of the tank exploding in their face. Gasoline vapors remaining in old gas tanks are very volatile and if ignited can produce very powerful explosions. FWIW, Carl B.

With our 240Z's now 38+ years old, it is getting harder and harder to find good used heads. "Good" meaning that the head isn't warped, cracked or already milled past its useful limit. A known good 72 E88 or 75 N42 around here can be $175.00 to $250.00. "known good" meaning that a machine shop has checked it for cracks and straightness. The 72 E88 has the same combustion chamber design as the earlier E31, but with a 2cc larger volume. It makes a good direct bolt-on replacement for any L24 and can be used on the L26's and L28's with Carb's as well. The E88's on the 73 240Z and 74 260Z's are emissions heads - and their combustion chamber design is optimized for emissions standards not performance. Call your local Nissan Dealer's Parts Dept - and price a new set of 12 rockers. The valve covers are usually worth $50.00 to $75.00 used {non- 2400 type}. Overheating any of the L series engines can result in warped heads - and there are not too many shops around any longer that either know how to straighten them, or have the necessary jigs to do so. So the heads wind up getting milled to straighten them - and there is a very limited amount that they can be milled before compression ratios get too high for pump gas. FWIW, Carl B.

When the 240Z's first came out - the Pressure Plate Assemblies were thick or tall - depending on how you look at it. So the throw-out bearing collars were short. The distance from the clutch mounting surface {on the flywheel} to the top of the pressure plate "fingers" was just over 2". As the years past - and the 280Z's came out - the pressure plates used in them were thinner or shorter - so the throw-out bearing collars were longer. Over time - the original stock of 240Z pressure plates were depleted - and Nissan then used the 28Z pressure plates as "Factory Replacements" - and they superceded the parts numbers accordingly. The result was that if you ordered a "240Z" clutch - you actually received a 280Z clutch as a replacement. That is when most of the trouble related to having the wrong throw-out bearing collar started. Most of the better Nissan Parts Countermen knew of this situation, and they would recommend getting a new throw-out bearing collar that matched the newer clutches {pressure plate assemblies}. Bottom line is that until you measure the hight of the pressure plate fingers - you don't really know what pressure plate you have - 240Z or 280Z. With a throw-out bearing collar that looks that short - you better have pressure plate fingers that are a least 2 to 2 1/16th inch from the mounting surface. As Guy suggested - measure the collar height - and measure the height of the fingers on both Pressure Plate assemblies you have. FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks - I guess if they have so much business that they are 8-12 weeks behind, they don't have much incentive to lower their price either. Anyway you look at it - OSHA and EPA have at least trippled the cost of running a plating business in the U.S. Wonder if anyone has used any shops in Mexico. FWIW, Carl B.

Thanks Cozye - that is very helpful. I have about 3 sets that I would like to send out for re-chrome, plus a couple other guys here in the Tampa Bay area have sets they want to have rechromed. So I'm very interested in this discussion thread. FWIW, Carl B.

Given the condition of the bumpers - how much do you think you can get out of them? For that matter, why would anyone buy them? Maybe you could start with a very good set of used bumpers that costs $500.00 or less, then have them re-chromed for $500.00. While I'm sure stainless bumpers can be very nice - they will turn your Classic into a Modified. Not a problem if you plan to drive it often and worry about rust problems, but stainless will never look the same as good chrome. Just me - but for the same money or slightly more I'd stick with chrome originals. If the stainless were half the price - maybe. FWIW, Carl B.

Hello Ismail: What is the number on the engine you received? It should be stamped on the block just below the #5 and #6 spark plugs.? You can order a new Engine I.D. plate - see item number ID-O1 here: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catDecals.php If you went to the trouble to find/buy a low VIN, 69 production Datsun 240Z - then it only makes sense to keep the original engine in it. good luck with the restoration... FWIW, Carl B.

At least at the banks I deal with - Stop Payment Orders can be made at any time before the Cashier's Check has cleared. The issuing bank can check up to the hour to see if it has been presented for payment or not... With a personal check, you have to wait until the following day to see if it cleared the day before or not. So you can actually stop payment on a Cashier's Check more quickly and assuredly than you can with a personal check. FWIW, Carl B.

It "could". It depends somewhat on how much money you are willing/able to spend. If both heads were in the same "as new" condition - the E31 swap would give you a slight increase in compression ratio, from 8.8:1 to 9:1. The trouble is that not too many 40 year old E31 heads are in "as new" condition. The E31's suffered from very small cracks in the castings around the exhaust valve seats. So the first thing you want to assure is - that isn't a problem with the E31 you have. Secondly, not too many E31's are straight, and most of them have been milled at least once. If you have to take more than a few thousands off them to assure that they are flat - you could be getting into compression ratio's that todays pump gasoline won't support. Unless you are willing/able to spend hundreds if not thousands of dollars on custom head work - I wouldn't recommend that swap. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - there are at least 4 heads with casting marks E88. I believe that Arnie has them a little confused. Late 71 E88: 6/71- 8/71 42.4 cc Combustion Chamber is the same volume and combustion chamber design is the same as the E31. 72 E88 9/71 through 7/72 44.7cc Combustion chamber design is the same as Late 71 E88 & E31. Castings around the exhaust valve were improved, intake and exhaust port runners reshaped slightly. 73 E88 8/72 though 7/73 47.8cc Combustion chamber redesigned for emissions. This head has a raised quench area {meaning it sits higher in the combustion chamber} - that increases chamber temperatures for improved combustion. {improved for emissions reduction not performance}. 74 260 E88 8/73 through 12/74 47.8cc Combustion chamber design is the same as the 73, exhaust valve increased from 33mm to 35mm. The only way to tell the Late 71 & 72 E88's from the emissions 73/74 E88's is to look at the combustion chamber shape. The Late 71 & 72 E88's have the same combustion chamber shape as the E31's which have a rounded or slightly hemispherical quench area a little deeper than the E31. You can see the "notched area" around the spark plug on these heads, its missing on the later 73/74 heads. See: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/E31andE88Heads.htm FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Hogie: Make sure you measure the height of the clutch pressure plate fingers and let us know what you received. Also check the actual length of the collar and compare them to the diagram I Posted.. Pictures of the ZOOM and MSA Pressure plates side by side would be GREAT... thanks, Carl B.

Here is an older diagram I was working on.. but wanted to verify the measurements before publishing... The Throw-Out Bearings are about 19mm. So add 28mm+19mm and you get pretty close to 47mm or 1.85" or 1 13/16's inch. FWIW, Carl B.

From my notes: For 1.75" high fingers - the throw-out bearing sleeve should be 28mm. The Part Number is 30501-1C104 (about $18.00 suggested retail from Nissan). FWIW, Carl B.

If your plugs have been in the car for say 1000 miles and you have driven in all manor of conditions {stop and go, highway, short trips where the engine barely gets warmed up etc. etc. - - then pulling the plugs will really tell you very little about how any specific aspect of your ignition and air/fuel mix are operating. There are simply too many variables involved there. If you are going to "read" your plugs - you have to install clean plugs and then run the car though its normal operating RPM range. A higher speed loop around the interstate and then home to pull the plugs. No short shifting and lugging the engine at low speeds.... "R" on the NGK plugs indicates "Resistor" - they cut down on electrical noise that can be a problem with radio reception. FWIW, Carl B.

I'm not sure what FSM you have - but Nissan issued Factory Service Bulletins which updated much of the information in the FSM's. At some point they recommended the extend tip BP6ES so that the electrodes projected farther into the combustion gases to help keep the plugs from carbon fowling. If you are going to "read" your plugs - you have to install clean plugs and then run the car though its normal operating RPM range. A quick loop around the interstate and then home to pull the plugs. If the car has been driven around town, for short stop and go driving - you will not get much useful information from the condition of the plugs. A choke sticking ON will give you a very rich mixture - and you will usually see carbon build up on the plugs. The FIRST thing to do is get the choke working properly so it can be full OFF... FWIW, Carl B.

The problem is not "Europeans", nor "Swiss people" - - the real problem is that on the Internet you never really know who someone is, nor where he is actually located. Every year, people here in the US and I'm sure around the world fall for the "Nigerian scams" and lose millions of dollars. Internet Fraud is everywhere - people even routinely get screwed on E-Bay... It is hard enough to take any legal action when a person is located within your own State here in the U.S. - it is all but impossible to take effective legal action when someone is out of the Country. It is very understandable that a seller in the U.S. would rather find a buyer in the U.S. if possible. There are far less complications to the transaction. The bottom line is that you don't have to "trust" anyone, anywhere. Simply set the terms of the sale such that all funds have to be paid-in-full before releasing anything. IMHO the best way to handle that is via an international Funds Transfer via the banking system.... ie. have the buyer wire the money to your bank account. If your worried about it - open another account with a new bank and use that for any and only on-line transactions... FWIW, Carl B.

Door Handles??? Grab the Intake and SU's - if the junk yard will sell them cheap enough. I'd also be there saving every nut, bolt, and screw that could be re-plated. What head is on the engine? If it's a 72 E88 that would be worth saving as well. Always good to have a spare engine bay wiring harness as well. Lots of good stuff still on that car.

Front Valance $175.00+$175.00+$175.00 = $525.00 R & L Front Fenders $250.00 + $250.00 = $500.00 R& L Doors Complete $275.00+$275.00 = $550.00 R & L Rear Quarters $650.00+$650.00 = $1,300.00 Rear Deck Lid $225.00 F & R Bumpers $275.00 + $275.00 = $550.00 Hood = $275.00 Right Inner Fender = $175.00 Roof = $175.00 Grill = $75.00 R & L Tail Lights = $$125.00 + $125.00= $250 Tail Light Finisher Panels $100.00 Headlight buckets with lights and wires = $75.00+$75.00 = $150.00 R & L Headlight Nacelles - Fiberglass $125.00 + $125.00 = = = = = $4975.00 Engine Wiring Harness = $175.00 Intake, S.U.'s and linkage = $225.00 Air Cleaner Housing = $75.00 Valve Cover = $100.00 Used Alternator $35.00 Used Brake Booster $75.00 Used Distributor $65.00 Used Starter $45.00 = = = = = $795.00 Steering Rack = $225.00 R&L Front Struts $50.00 + $50.00 = $100.00 R&L Rear Struts $50.00 + $50.00 = $100.00 Rear End $175.00 R & L Rear Brake Drums $50.00 + $50.00= $100 = = = = = = $700.00 Brake and Fuel hard Lines with all mounts and fasteners = $175.00 R&L Door Panels $225.00 + $225.00 = $450.00 R&L Seats $75.00 +$75.00 = $150.00 All interior Plastic Panels $225.00 Dash - $750.00 = = = = $1575.00 Plus a great supply of nuts, bolts, screws and other small parts that could be cleaned/re-plated and resold. - Free = = = = = = = = = = = = = TOTAL = $8045.00 FWIW, Carl B.

I used Paint Pens... you can get them at any Arts/Crafts Stores. I'm pretty sure that all emblems by 1973 were plastic, not that you couldn't use metal if you have them.

The bushing in the lower picture, right side was used from late 72 though 73. Top and bottom are the same design during that time - except the hole size is different. Top mount has a larger hole. As zKars mentioned - the hole size will indicate top or bottom location. FWIW, Carl B.

Interest in Classic 240Z's is growing in Europe and the Z's are showing up in more Concours events there. I've helped a couple of guys in Europe locate and buy 240Z's. One of them came to the 40th Anniversary Celebration of the Z Car this past year in Nashville. In both cases the buyers had a Broker here in the US that handled paying for the car and then picking it up and shipping it to Europe. The sellers were paid with a Cashiers Check drawn on a US Bank by the Broker, and the car was picked up a few weeks later, well after the checks cleared. Do you write personal checks for any reason? If you do, anyone that gets them has your banking information - it's printed on all your checks. I don't know why your banker would advise against receiving a wire transfer. Your bank will charge you a small fee for receiving funds and exchanging Euro's to U.S. Dollars - but it will be FAR less than Pay Pal. If the buyer is willing to send you 1/2 the money and months later, show up with the other half in cash - I don't see any reason not to sell. I agree that you should not release the car or any paperwork until any checks have cleared - and you can withdraw the CASH from your account. If you have any concerns - just go to another bank - and open a new account for the purpose of receiving the funds - put $50.00 in there to open the account - after the checks clear or the funds arrive - take the cash out and close the account. FWIW, Carl B.