Carl Beck

Hi Dan: I may know a couple of guys that you would be happy with..drop me an e-mail at beck@becksystems.com Carl B.

Hi Kats: The wheels are Dunlop wheels. Formula D4 I believe. They were also used on the 1972 OMS Pace Car. I tried to order a set back in 72, but the Dunlop Wheel Distributor {BAP/GEON} said that they were not DOT approved for sale in the U.S. - so they couldn't get them. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Jon: First - it is not an "expansion" tank nor an "overflow" tank - it is a gasoline vapor recovery tank. You can tell that because it is mounted higher in the car than the filler neck. If it was an overflow tank, it would be mounted at or lower than the filler neck. It's sole purpose is to contain gasoline vapors within a closed systems, thus preventing them from venting to the atmosphere, until they can be either condensed back into liquid form where they drain back to the tank, or sent to the engine to be burned. Gasoline vapor control started in California {CARB standards} and was required for new cars sold there in 1970. I do not know if California required that system earlier than 1970, but it is possible they did. The Fed's added the requirement to the Federal Emissions Standards for all 50 States in 1971. Early cars sold in Canada in 1970 did not have it, nor did they have the air injection systems required in the US. Sometime after March of 1970 - Nissan started producing all 240Z's sent to North America with the same standard emission controls so Canada got them, necessary there or not. The earliest 240Z gas caps were the vented type {many 240Z's produced in 1969 did not have the vapor recovery systems at all} - which allowed gasoline vapors to escape when the gasoline in the tank expanded from heat, and allowed air to enter the tank as gasoline was pumped out of the tank, or contracted with cooling. With the sealed evaporative emissions control system, vapors are collected in the vapor recovery tank, and vapors/or liquid is pushed to the engine crankcase {then vented into the intake manifold by PCV valve}; when contraction occurs air is drawn into the tank from the air cleaner. This is controlled by the Flow Guide Valve on the left front inner-fender. If you eliminate the gasoline vapor recovery system - to eliminate the possibility of gasoline vapors escaping into the passenger cabin - then you should also make sure your gas tank cap is vented. This is most important - as failing to do so can give the symptoms of a weak fuel pump or vapor lock. The fuel pumps on the L24 are capable of pumping liquid from the tank, to the point that the tank can collapse. The fact that it doesn't happen often has to do with the old gas caps failing to seal as designed when new. If you are unlucky enough to have a really good sealing gas cap - then you'll see the symptoms mentioned above. Someone - some time ago Posted pictures of both types of Z gas caps on the Web. Someone else Posted pictures of his collapsed gas tank as well. FWIW, Carl B

Look at the Rail Road Tracks in the Aerial footage http://www.stuff.co.nz/the-press/news/4094979/Huge-earthquake-rocks-Christchurch amazing.. Carl B.

Based on the picture - it would appear that the BMW seat back is wider than the OEM seat. This may or may not be a problem. The wider seat back, can hit both the inner-fender well and/or the transmission tunnel, if you recline the seat back when the seat is at its most rearward position. Another issue that I've ran into - is that the right side seats, do not move as far rearward as the left side seats. This can be an issue with taller passengers in the right side seats, plus it is hard to see around them if you are in the left seat. It "seems" like the right side seat rails have rearward stops - that do not allow the seat to go as far rearward - as the left side seat rails. Although I'm not certain it is the rails.

Can you Post a picture of the bottom of the BMW seats? You might have to remove the original rails - and make a new mount for the original 240Z rails. Also, you will want mount the BMW seats as low as possible. This will provide room between the seat and steering wheel for your legs and entry/exit. good luck, Carl B.

The 72 Z listed above - has been sold. FWIW, Carl B.

A nice lady wrote me about a 72 Datsun 240Z that her husband had before he passed away. She would like to get it out of her garage and see it go to someone that needs the parts. The body shows a lot of typical rust in the lower sections... the car hasn't ran since the mid 80's. Nonetheless, based on the pictures she sent - it looks like there are a lot of good parts on a pretty stock example. http://dayton.craigslist.org/cto/2019811509.html The above URL works - but for some unknown reason, if you search Craigslist - the Ad. doesn't show up yet. If you are doing a refresh/restore - it is really helpful to have a good parts-car handy. Lots of nuts/bolts/washers that can be take off and sent out for re-plating, not to mention many valuable parts on the car. SU Carb's and intake manifold - - - $150.00 to $225.00 Rear Decklid - $150.00 Hood - $150.00 Original Radio - $75.00 to $150.00 The Z rubber floormats - $50.00 to $95.00 If the bumpers aren't rusted through from inside - $250.00 each Steering wheel - $75.00 Complete wiring harness - $95.00 Crack free dash - $450.00 to $650.00 Rust repair panels $75.00 for the pair Center console - $45.00 Stock Wheels - $35.00 each {$170.00} Red interior vinyl, door panels and seats ??? I told her at $795.00 it is a great deal for anyone in Ohio... If it was close to me I'd grab it.. FWIW, Carl B.

Agreed - if you had never seen one before - it would look totally modern today. Carl B.

A.C. line. The original piston compressor was replaced with the newer rotary style.. thus the removal of the air injection tube from the anti-backfire valve. #157 was never "restored" - only completly repainted in the mid 70's. The owner ran a high end body shop - and he repainted the car for his wife. Once it was done, she was afraid to drive it any longer - so it went into the Collection with something less than 30K miles {among many other amazing items}. I didn't believe that he ever changed the fuel lines.. turns out he didn't. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: I wouldn't either - and I didn't Well the third owner did... Made a few call's to track the hisory after it was sold... Randy said that he thought John Williams had changed them.. I stand corrected - at least on this one. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Walter: Yea Gad... over three years and you get it back 60% complete and missing $1800.00 in parts !!! This is really a shame, and it happens all too often. I would really like to see criminal fraud charges brought against these people. This is far worse than just bad business practices. I too bought my first Z in 1970 while in the USAF, for that matter I bought my second Z at the end of 71 while still in the USAF.. {Fairchild AFB}. Good luck getting your car completed... FWIW, Carl B.

If your R200 did not come with the mounting nuts/washers - you'll need them too. The R200 has larger mounting studs - so your R180 nuts/washers will not transfer. The washers and lock washers are important - as is the correct torque on the mounting nuts. FWIW, Carl B.

A friend of mine and his wife owned #157 since 1970..today another friend has the car. #157 came originally with Braided Fuel Lines. Still has its 69 dated spark plug wires as well. I'm pretty sure I have photo's of others as well..maybe some are more clear.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: I don't understand your question. You just told us what you have - "a 70 hatch with a Datsun badge on the lower left of the hatch." To be "stock" it should have the Datsun badge and the 240-Z script on the lower right of the hatch. FWIW, Carl B.

A couple of thoughts.... 1. I have a friend near Tampa that started out that way.. refreshing a few solid Z's... today I believe he has about 20 of them restored.... 2. Sell your son's T-Bird, and buy my wife's. 91 Super Coupe with less than 11K miles. $12K and he can drive it back to California.. Great project so far.... FWIW, Carl B.

Google 13257-21000 and see what shows up... FWIW, Carl B.

Before you do anything - change the PCV valve... that's the most usual cause of your symptoms, once the rings seat. 11810-E3000 Assy-Control Valve Crank Case Emission. FWIW, Carl B.

Where in Florida are you located?

If your really picky - you have to have a few test panels sprayed first.. then adjustments to the mix can be made before you spray the car. FWIW, Carl B.

Given the broader choice between a) buying the stroker kit and building that engine, building an L28 with 10:1 compression, c) buying an L28 built completely by Rebello. I'd spend the extra money on having Rebello do the complete engine build, including intake and tuning - then install that yourself. There is a large difference in performance between engines built by shops like Rebello - and engines built by people that rebuild two or three L series engines a year. Not to mention matching the intake system to the engine and fine tuning everything. FWIW, Carl B.

thanks Jon - I've updated the Post at #60.. Carl B.

Hi Rob: Are you looking to spend $4K on an engine, $6K, $8K??? Being specific about the budget helps greatly in narrowing down recommendations. Truth be told, for what he charges I'd be ordering a L6 Stroker from Rebello. It would be done right the first time and you'd be driving the car in a day to do the swap. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes. If the engine was replaced with a Factory New short block - the Dealer would have stamped a serial number on that block - usually with a different set of dies, that had a different font style. The Factory supplied Complete New L24 engines and they also supplied New L24 "short blocks". That would be an engine without a new head and without new exterior items like oil pump, water pump, front timing cover, etc. If a short block was needed/used the additional parts from the original engine were put on the new short block. Yes all exterior parts from either the E31 or P30 were interchangable. I would guess that would be quite possible. Here is a picture of the serial numbers stamped by the factory in a late 71 production 240Z. You can see that the factory font is the same as the earlier factory font. {the shape of the "0" and "6"} FWIW, Carl B.

Since the "6" and "0" aren't the same font... I'd say the block was not stamped at the Factory L24-3260 9901A 12/69 HLS30 00587 FWIW, Carl B.