Carl Beck

Would it be possible to get a picture of that engine serial number? The font on the dies used to stamp it might give us a clue. New replacement blocks from Nissan - came into the Parts Department at the local Dealerships with no serial number - -- Quite possible the Dealership stamped the original engine serial number that was in the car, on the replacement... If that happened, the font on the dies used will most likely not perfectly match the factory dies. FWIW, Carl B.

If you are going to have significant head work done - in the end - either E31 or early E88 are the same. According to the guys on Bob Sharp's team - when I discussed this subject with them circa 1975/6: The E31 castings suffered micro cracks, usually around the exhaust valve seats. So you have to have any E31 inspected closely and carefully before you start pouring money into it. The E31 was a popular swap back in the day - only when one was just swapping heads. In that case, yes you could pick up a coupe tenths of a point in compression. The E88 was a better casting and did not suffer the micro cracking that the E31 did, the intake and exhaust port runners were also improved in the E88. Both BRE and BSR used the E88 after 72. Not that the E88 was so much better, but rather because that was the current head - as I said, both teams modified the heads so much that they bore little resemblance to stock anyway. FWIW, Carl B.

With the Mallory UniLite - you run two ballast resistors. One for the electronics in the distributor and another for the coil. If you are running the 280Z distributor, make sure you have the 280Z coil as well. The ballast resistor is there so that the ignition supplies 12v at the START position of the ignition switch - then reverts to 6v to RUN on the 240Z. If you run the 240Z coil without the resistor you'll soon cook it. FWIW, Carl B.

Bonzi Lon, ol'red70 - thanks guys, I put the info in the list a Post #60.. Carl B.

To Recap what we have so far in this thread..and update as we proceed... <pre> L24 107 E31 92124 FSM L24-2130 E31 9828G 10/69 HLS30-00032 Mike B L24-2396 E31 9901D 11/69 HLS30-00210 Mike B L24-2465 E31 9901F HLS30 00215 mdbrandy L24-2585 E31 9X04C 11/69 HLS30-00331 Mike B L24-3260 E31 9901A 12/69 HLS30-00587 Carl B L24-3652 E31 9X04F 01/70 HLS30-01590 Mike B L24-4375 E31 9Y01A 02/70 HLS30-01704 JonnyRock L24-004621 E31 0126C 01/70 ???? BonziLon L24-005562 E31 02121 03/70 HLS30-02156 Kats L24-005757 E31 0327B 04/70 HLS30-02725 ol'red70 L24-05778 E31 0320A 04/70 abas L24 010878 E31 0660K 07/70 HLS30-07715 Napa Bill L24-011821 08/70 HLS30-08323 daddz L24-026313 P30 1109A 01/71 HLS30-19867 zztom L24-027116 P30 1616L 01/71 HLS30-20419 AZ-240z L24 O27310 P30 01/71 HLS30-20390 deadflo L24-032875 P30 03/71 HLS30 25734 lonetreesteve L24-039190 P30 1408a 05/71 HLS30-31306 mlc240Z L24-123315 08/72 HLS30-98122 ChrisA </pre> FWIW Carl B.

The L26 blocks have the same bore as the L24. The L26 blocks are eyebrowed from the factory. No problem if you have a 0.5mm overbore or larger.. FWIW Carl B.

Hi Kats: Your explanation is very clear. I believe it was quite easy for block castings and finished engine blocks to be mixed up - as they were moved around the factory, sent from the production lines, to the shipping docks and then shipped out to the assembly plants for installation in the various vehicles. No one was paying attention to the casting dates or finished block serial numbers at that point. For a time - I worked on the production lines and then in the shipping department of a manufacturing plant - believe me - the fork lifts running around - picking up pallets of finished goods - would move them all over the place and in a very random order - before they got loaded on trucks, or in train box cars for shipping. Very easy to get them all mixed up.. I have collect for decades - VIN's with original engine serial numbers for the Datsun 240Z's.. but haven't recorded all block casting codes. For the most part the L24's only have two different codes as I recall. I believe the L24 was used in a larger sedan and a commercial truck as well as the Z. The Datsun 2400 {GL130}/Nissan Super Six and Personal Deluxe Six are listed in the FSM. Maybe they got the first few batches of the L24's. The 1970 L20/L24 Factory Service Manual shows a picture of L24-107. So I would guess that they started the serial numbers at L24-00001. The L24 and L20A are two different castings of the same basic block. You can not bore a 2.0L with a bore of 78mm - out to 2.4L with a bore of 83mm - and have any cylinder wall thickness left. So the L20A had to be cast with smaller cylinder bores than used in the L24's - to begin with. So far the earliest L24 block number reported for a 69 production Datsun 240Z is L24-2079 found in HLS30 0042, but we have only found about 166 of the first 543. So it is quite possible that much lower serial number blocks were used in the Z's. FWIW, Carl B.

HI Kats: Interesting information you have presented. Wasn't the Skyline GT-R introduced in Feb of 1969 with the S20 engine. If so then Prince must have been casting production blocks several months before that.. They must have started production of the engines in 1968 sometime. I recall Mr. Matsuo writing that he was told to use the new Prince S20 for the JDM S30, in Aug. of 67. Why bother to put casting codes on any casting? Usually it is done for Quality Control purposes. If later a problem is found with a casting - you have a record that could lead you to the person that did the job, or the batch of castings that were cast at the same time, or with the same lot of cast iron. That way you can try to find out if the problem was caused by the person involved, or by the materials used or by some process step that was or wasn't followed correctly. Normally castings of any kind in a production environment - are not cast one at a time. Usually they are cast in larger batches. It takes a huge amount of energy to melt cast iron to a liquid form so it can be poured into waiting molds. If the casting marks track the castings down to the specific day - then the last two numbers might be the sequence number for the casting made that day, or they might be to identify the specific mold used. If the last two numbers identify the specific mold used - you would know who made that mold. If that person made mistakes in his molds - the entire batch cast that day might not have been bad.. if the problem shows up in several different molds made by different people - then the problem might be in the mix of the cast iron used that day.. So maybe: 9-6-24- 01 9-6-24- 02 9-6-24- 03 9-6-24- 04 9-6-24- 05 9-6-24- 06 9-6-24- 0x..... 9-6-24- 50 The block Serial Numbers are stamped into the block later - so they could easily be out of sequence with the specific casting numbers. Just a guess for fun.... Carl B.

There can be a number of reasons to rebuild an L24 with 63K original miles. 1. Perhaps the most common one is - - The car sat for the past 20 years and the person that either sold it or the person that bought it - failed to take all necessary steps to properly "awaken the sleeping beauty"... thus they scuffed the piston rings and/or cylinder walls... maybe they had a valve stuck and the piston hit it... maybe it was simply front or rear main seals leaking and it scared them... 2. The new owner is just going though the entire car. So they pull the engine and sent it out to be rebuilt. That way, when they start out on One Lap Of America, they know the engine is at its best. 3. They wanted to keep the original matching number L24 - but they wanted to bring it up to todays standard of performance - so they send it out for an L28 crank, some rework on the head and larger valves. They were going to re-seal {pan, head, front cover, front and rear main seals} the engine anyway.. so while you have the head off for inspection... might as well go ahead with a few mods at that point. FWIW, Carl B.

I would call Charlie and ask him if the front floor pans are the same on the Coupe and 2+2 - he has the floor pans manufactured. http://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm FWIW, Carl B.

That is correct. The late 260Z has the complete 280Z body and interior. The 280Z radiator was increased in lenght - the lower radiator core support was strengthened, and the lower center valance on the 280Z body curves down to cover them and to allow more airflow into the larger radiator. The 280Z body for the U.S. has a lot of reinforcing metal to carry and support the larger 5mph impact bumpers. Eiji has a lot of good pictures related to the 280Z body differences relative to the earlier 240Z body. You can scroll down though a couple months of his Blog.. http://blog.livedoor.jp/datsunspirit/archives/2006-08.html http://blog.livedoor.jp/datsunspirit/archives/2006-09.html FWIW, Carl B

8/74 should have started production of the 280Z for North America. The L28E was late getting though development and EPA testing/certification and wasn't ready for production until late 12/74. The production lines and suppliers were all ready with the 280Z body as of 08/74.. so the 280Z body was put into production 08/74.. but then equipped with the EPA certified L26... thus the "late model 260Z". FWIW, Carl B.

I seriously doubt that you talked to anyone at Hagerty. I and hundreds and hundreds of other Z car owners have dealt with them for decades - and none of us have been given that information. More than likely you talked to some local Insurance Agent that can handle business though the Hagerty and they are very badly mis-informed. FWIW, Carl B.

...it will continue running because.... you have a fuel return line to your tank, for fuel not used by the engine... If you have triple Webers for example, and you have eliminated the return - it will continue pumping when ever the fuel pressure drops in the pump... in that case you will hear it pump every few seconds once the lines are full...

It wouldn't be a fair price in my opinion. First, how many 3.5 R-180's would one find in that area of the country; and second on top of $125.00 price, there should have been at least a $25.00 delivery fee. If he didn't want to pay the delivery fee - let him pay the shipping $65.00 to $75.00... I'd say it was as steal for the buyer. I'd ask him why he believes it is an R-160 in the first place. Did he call you the same day or did this revelation take place after some third party told him it was an R-160.??? Ask him to tell you why he believes it's R-160... If his answer is that some one else told him - tell him it is too bad that person didn't come inspect it before the purchase was completed. The second alternative is to tell him to return it to your house - and give him his money back. I most certainly would NOT go get it 40 miles away.. It is "unlikely" but possible - - the PO might have found an R-160 with a 4.11 posi unit... out of some other vehicle. If that is the case - grab it back.. then resell it for $225.00. Just my opinion - but some buyers that don't bother to verify what they are buying - then later decide they shouldn't have bought it - shouldn't expect a return policy from the seller... FWIW, Carl B.

Actually there are as many shades of White as there are any other colors. Ask any body painter how hard it is to match whites on cars. Today, 40 years later...you might find slight color variations in the vinly on the door panels, the seat upholster and plastic panels in the car. The trick is finding a vinyl dye that matches your seats - then everything else usually has to be dyed to match. With that said - the original white in 240-Z's for 72 is what we call "white". I hasten to add that I've seen too many people use a very white white dye... and that is too blindingly white. The "off-white" actually came in 73 - if you place the two side by side, you can see the difference. The reason the 73's are off-white is because Flame Retardant interior materials had to be used for cars sold in the US that model year. That new material was every so slightly - off white. Kind of in between white and light cream. The "white in the Z" wasn't a problem - they sold very well in 73. However at the begining of the model run we started getting PL510's - Orange with Green interiors... very ugly... That is when we found out that several colors were held up, due to the new Flame Retardant Materials regulations. Nissan actually suppled new Black interiors for several of the ugly PL510's that would not sell otherwise. FWIW, Carl B.

First let me say that it looks from the pictures to be a very nice restomod - has some very good modifications etc - - - Put on the market for sale today - you might find buyers in the $10K to $14K range... although at $14K the paint and body work would have be pretty good...{to build it or duplicate it today - I'm sure you would have the initial price of the car PLUS $18K to $22K} With regular insurance, which would state ACV for collision/comp. coverage - if it was totalled/stolen - the Claims Adjustor would most likely offer $1,500.00 to $2,500.00 as the Actual Cash Value. With a lot of hassle, depending on how it was damaged - who was at fault - and if you had physical injuries... you might get them up to $5,000.00/$6500.00 range {IF YOU HAVE PHYSICAL INJURIES}. Next question - Has the Z been shown at local or national shows, and has it been Judged in 1st place in its Class.? If so, you MIGHT get the Claims Adjustor up to $8,500.00.... Looking at the Z - the next question is; "what did you pay for it?" and that is followed by "did you report the full purchase price and pay the sales tax on that amount?" If you did, you have a record of the selling price and thus proof of its fair market value ... if you didn't, you have no record that you can use in court. Also - it helps if your State issues a "Classic" or "Historic" license plate and you have taken that option. IF - the car was securely garaged, and used primarily for pleasure/show use... and if you are within the age group and have the driving record that the insurer will cover - I'd say you would not have a problem agreeing with the insurer on a Agreed Value of $18K to $21K. That would cost you about $150.00 PER YEAR. FWIW, Carl B.

I think it was the same buyer - only now 10 years older. Having lived day to day with the 240Z, the owners wanted better A/C, more heat/sound insulation, better door/window sealing and far better rust/corrosion resistance... Oh yes, and could I have cruise control and power windows please.. Most of these customers weren't actually looking for a better "sports car" so much as they wanted a better daily driver - that was "sporty". Just look at the modifications made even to 240Z's that the owners want to keep close to stock - they add heat/sound insulation, the do a better job of corrosion protection than original, most of the "want" better A/C... FWIW, Carl B.

If you are using a powder or liquid paint - surface prep is perhaps the most important step. The "quality" of the materials used in the paint, powder or liquid, is what is important to the durability / life-span of the finish. As I recall - - "Powder Coating" grew out of the process of electrostatic painting. Electrostatic painting was very useful for example, when the military and/or private companies had steel file cabinets. desks, office chairs etc - that needed to be repainted/refinished - in place, ie in the Office. So putting a negative charge on the object - then using a positive charge on the paint particles - resulted in next to no over-spray, and as importantly, it got paint on surfaces where it was otherwise hard to spray directly. A less expensive or lower quality "powder" is not going to be "better" than a higher quality liquid when both are applied properly. Powder or Liquid they are both "plastic finishes" and it is the quality of the polymers and compounds used that account for the qualities of the final finish. {holding process quality equal}. If possible in your area - check with a local shop that does Mil-Spec. finishes for DOD/NASA contractors. It is possible you will get a higher quality finish at the same price, or the same quality finish at a lower price from shops that have been in the business of supplying MilSpec standard finishes, than from the new start-up's doing powder coating. {automotive body shops aren't the only people that paint things} I like dealing with the Mil-Spec certified vendors because by and large they maintain better process controls. They are also far more knowledgeable about the available alternatives and standards of durability than most. FWIW, Carl B.

Start with this one - you will be WAY ahead... http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/datsun/240z/1127675.html FWIW, Carl B.

Your Z looks fabulous! Thanks for the Up-date. Do you have it registered for road use - and have you been able to get it out for a long drive yet? CarL B.

has slotted mag's on it now..

Hi Rich1 Not that it is any of our business - but what should we expect to pay a body shop for a metal job like that? Arne's was done very reasonably - but there is a large difference in a shops overhead between his location and yours. thanks, Carl

Thanks Mike - I just ordered a set. Don't really need them right now - but wanted to encourage more efforts like this. FWIW, Carl B.

Nice find Glenn - you should buy that matching color 510 as well :-) Reported from Australia & New Zeland: HS30 10469 has engine L24-078306 HS30 10481 has engine L24-078250 HS30 10517 has engine L24-078046 HS30 10527 has engine L24-077313 HS30 10552 has engine L24-078080 Thoes engine numbers would be found in US 240's with dates of mfg. 01/72 The range for Jan 72 so far reported goes from L24-077429 to L24-081097. So anything in that range would be pretty close. I agree with Mike - Great color. good luck with the project. Carl B.