Carl Beck

First let me say that it looks from the pictures to be a very nice restomod - has some very good modifications etc - - - Put on the market for sale today - you might find buyers in the $10K to $14K range... although at $14K the paint and body work would have be pretty good...{to build it or duplicate it today - I'm sure you would have the initial price of the car PLUS $18K to $22K} With regular insurance, which would state ACV for collision/comp. coverage - if it was totalled/stolen - the Claims Adjustor would most likely offer $1,500.00 to $2,500.00 as the Actual Cash Value. With a lot of hassle, depending on how it was damaged - who was at fault - and if you had physical injuries... you might get them up to $5,000.00/$6500.00 range {IF YOU HAVE PHYSICAL INJURIES}. Next question - Has the Z been shown at local or national shows, and has it been Judged in 1st place in its Class.? If so, you MIGHT get the Claims Adjustor up to $8,500.00.... Looking at the Z - the next question is; "what did you pay for it?" and that is followed by "did you report the full purchase price and pay the sales tax on that amount?" If you did, you have a record of the selling price and thus proof of its fair market value ... if you didn't, you have no record that you can use in court. Also - it helps if your State issues a "Classic" or "Historic" license plate and you have taken that option. IF - the car was securely garaged, and used primarily for pleasure/show use... and if you are within the age group and have the driving record that the insurer will cover - I'd say you would not have a problem agreeing with the insurer on a Agreed Value of $18K to $21K. That would cost you about $150.00 PER YEAR. FWIW, Carl B.

I think it was the same buyer - only now 10 years older. Having lived day to day with the 240Z, the owners wanted better A/C, more heat/sound insulation, better door/window sealing and far better rust/corrosion resistance... Oh yes, and could I have cruise control and power windows please.. Most of these customers weren't actually looking for a better "sports car" so much as they wanted a better daily driver - that was "sporty". Just look at the modifications made even to 240Z's that the owners want to keep close to stock - they add heat/sound insulation, the do a better job of corrosion protection than original, most of the "want" better A/C... FWIW, Carl B.

If you are using a powder or liquid paint - surface prep is perhaps the most important step. The "quality" of the materials used in the paint, powder or liquid, is what is important to the durability / life-span of the finish. As I recall - - "Powder Coating" grew out of the process of electrostatic painting. Electrostatic painting was very useful for example, when the military and/or private companies had steel file cabinets. desks, office chairs etc - that needed to be repainted/refinished - in place, ie in the Office. So putting a negative charge on the object - then using a positive charge on the paint particles - resulted in next to no over-spray, and as importantly, it got paint on surfaces where it was otherwise hard to spray directly. A less expensive or lower quality "powder" is not going to be "better" than a higher quality liquid when both are applied properly. Powder or Liquid they are both "plastic finishes" and it is the quality of the polymers and compounds used that account for the qualities of the final finish. {holding process quality equal}. If possible in your area - check with a local shop that does Mil-Spec. finishes for DOD/NASA contractors. It is possible you will get a higher quality finish at the same price, or the same quality finish at a lower price from shops that have been in the business of supplying MilSpec standard finishes, than from the new start-up's doing powder coating. {automotive body shops aren't the only people that paint things} I like dealing with the Mil-Spec certified vendors because by and large they maintain better process controls. They are also far more knowledgeable about the available alternatives and standards of durability than most. FWIW, Carl B.

Start with this one - you will be WAY ahead... http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/datsun/240z/1127675.html FWIW, Carl B.

Your Z looks fabulous! Thanks for the Up-date. Do you have it registered for road use - and have you been able to get it out for a long drive yet? CarL B.

has slotted mag's on it now..

Hi Rich1 Not that it is any of our business - but what should we expect to pay a body shop for a metal job like that? Arne's was done very reasonably - but there is a large difference in a shops overhead between his location and yours. thanks, Carl

Thanks Mike - I just ordered a set. Don't really need them right now - but wanted to encourage more efforts like this. FWIW, Carl B.

Nice find Glenn - you should buy that matching color 510 as well :-) Reported from Australia & New Zeland: HS30 10469 has engine L24-078306 HS30 10481 has engine L24-078250 HS30 10517 has engine L24-078046 HS30 10527 has engine L24-077313 HS30 10552 has engine L24-078080 Thoes engine numbers would be found in US 240's with dates of mfg. 01/72 The range for Jan 72 so far reported goes from L24-077429 to L24-081097. So anything in that range would be pretty close. I agree with Mike - Great color. good luck with the project. Carl B.

I will say that I believe I know who bought it - but haven't heard from him since the auction ended. It may have gone to someone else...I'll have to wait and see.. In todays market I think $18K was a reasonable price for both the buyer and seller. Three years ago I'm sure it would have brought far more - three years from now it will too. It will certainly return far more fun than 2% interest on savings. FWIW, Carl B.

I don't believe that Jason meant to indicate that the car sold for $24,500.00 - he simply put SOLD beside the original asking price on the ad. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: No - I was going by the article about the Ferrari... didn't check the figures... it was the old F/GT record. Haven't found an "offical" source to check. http://www.bobnorwood.com/Ferrari%203%20Liter%20power%20on%20the%20salt.htm Andy Flagg's 2003 F/Production record still stands at 167.158 mph with his 2+2. But the reported records online are only the current or standing records. FWIW, Carl B.

NO sorry.. Carl

Thanks Mike - I think that was sensible of him.

Well do - good to see the car go to a person that will really appreicate it - and who can properly bring it back to 100%. I'm sure the seller was happy as well - FWIW, Carl B.

Looks great - was that a complete roof replacement? Carl

So the "reserve" must have been at $17,400.00 {yes/no?} I did not get the impression that the seller had any intention of taking the reserve off before it was meet. Carl B.

I'll ask him.. Carl

Burton Brown has sat a new Bonneville Record in his 1972 Datsun 240Z - 172.9 mph in Class F/GT. This has to be a stock bodied 240Z running between 2001cc and less than 3000cc displacement on gasoline. Burton ran his L6 on Carb's - beating the old record of 168.7 mph set by a 308 QV Ferrari running F.I.. Which in turn had beat the previous record of 161 mph, set in 1985 by... another Z. Burton said he would let me know when he has video's ready - watch the Z Car Home Page - I'll be putting hyper-links there when ready. WAY TO GOOOOO Burton! FWIW, Carl B.

This Orange 72 with 23K miles is now up to $17,305.00 and the reserve is still not meet. Less than two days to go... Will it break $19K ????

Hi John: Nothing wrong at all - - I seriously hope it does sell for $20K+.... I also agree that you never know until you try. The only thing I can think of - that might strike some as wrong - would be an uninformed buyer making an emotional decision - suffering the illusion based on the seller description, that he is getting a "new" car. Then finding out after the fact, that he has actually bought a low mileage 40 year old car that needs lots more work and money. On the other hand, the Yellow car has been for sale since at least March of this year - no takers at $19,500.00 and so far no takers at $25K. I was simply trying to point out to the OP why I believe the car wasn't selling in those price ranges. The owner can certainly keep it - and hold it until the values of the cars go back up with the economy. That however may be a few years - if he really wants to sell it - perhaps $18K today is better than $20K in a year or two, or $25K in three to four years. It is in the end the seller's choice. On the potential buyers side - they should at least be aware of the additional time and expense they are most likely to incur, and they should not expect to take that car to a National level show and expect that it would be a class winner. On the subject of original cars - - you are correct, there is a growing interest in what many marque clubs and Classic Car Clubs are referring to as "Survivor Class" vehicles. Where true "original", unrestored Classics are Judged in a Class by themselves. For the most part that seems to be cars that are at least 40 years old, and on which at least 90% of the car is actually "un-restored original". However even in that class - "original" is judged or graded by how close to "as it left the factory" all components are. In the case of this Yellow Z - it would lose a lot of points because of the deterioration mentioned. At the other end of the extreme - to date the best "original" S30 I've seen so far was the 78 Black Pearl with 650 m.o.l. miles. Cared for in the extreme since new - kept in an air conditioned/dehumidified environment. That was a #1 example by any judging standards. So these cars do exist - are rare in the extreme and priced accordingly. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi hogie: Just some additional thoughts.... First I agree with Jon... and BTW - I don't think there is any difference in the flywheels on the L24/L26 or L28's. The only difference is that the 2+2's have larger diameter machined surface for a large clutch disc. If you are shifting around 5500 -6000 RPM into 3rd and then 4th - and the clutch is slipping - then it is most likely slipping every time you start out in 1st as well. If you shift into 3rd at much lower speeds/RPM's and then go to WOT.. and the clutch slips.. it may still be strong enough to hold during a soft launch from "0" in first. In which case you could take it easy and most likely not do any real hard for several weeks or even months.. depends on how much you drive. Flywheel damage is "usually" caused by overheating - which causes hot spots {change in the temper of the metal" in places. If the clutch is worn, and it was the riveted type.. the metal rivets can cut deep groves in the metal... sometimes too deep to safely remove. For sure you should plan on haveing the flywheel turned true {usually done on a brake lath}.. but then it should also be resurfaced properly. That way the new clutch will not result is a "shutter" when engaging the flywheel. Best recommendation is to buy a good used flywheel {with good ring gear teeth}... and have it turned and resurfaced - that way you have it on hand when you change the clutch.. and you don't get held up for two or more days... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: Yes - Jan of 71 was the month that the change over was made between the Series I 240Z's and the Series II 240Z's. Nissan called the Series II cars "Late Model 1971"... During that change over - several cars seem to have been "mixtures" of parts from both Series. More than one car have been reported to have both the Vented Z's and rear decklid vents - claimed to be original - but none so far owned by their original owners... so who knows for sure.. So far the highest VIN reported for a Series I is HLS30 20438 and the lowest VIN for a Series II reported is HLS30 21443. According to Nissan Series II cars started with VIN HLS30 21000. #21443 was reported with a 02/71 production date.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Tony: See: http://zhome.com/History/1970or1971.html FWIW, Carl B.

Hi John: I would have to respectfully disagree. For $20 to $23K you can buy a true #2 Condition 71 240Z. Low mileage is nice, all stock is nice - - but the value of a 240-Z is mostly in it over-all condition. So why is this specific car not up to true #2 Condition standards? 1. After sitting since 1976 - it is really a pig in a poke - the potential buyer has no idea of how it is going to run, nor the actual amount of time and money it will take to put it in road-worthy condition. I wrote a Post related to awakening Sleeping Beauties some time ago - and if they threw a Red Top in that car and cranked it over and over - trying to start it - without all proper and called for preventative measures having been taken... it could easily lead to a lot of expense and time to correct. At the very least it represents a lot of RISK to any potential buyer. Funds have to be reserved to cover that risk... 2. This 240Z seems to have all its original parts - - but they are not in "original" condition. As you can see from the few pictures of the engine compartment - the metal parts that were originally Bright Yellow Cad plated - are now deteriorated and turning gray. Engine parts, carb linkages, nuts, bolts, fuel rail, air injection tube etc etc... On a #2 Condition car these would all look like new... ie bright and shinny. 3. Likewise - the original braided hoses have all faded and deteriorated... The block has obvious surface rust etc. etc. etc. A true #1 / #2 Condition example would appear "as new" - - not as 40 year old used parts, even if slighty used. This is a great car that "COULD" be brought up to # 2 condition - but it will take a lot more time, money and serious effort before it is close to that standard. Who Buys 240Z's today in the $20K+ price range? Answer - Only serious Collectors. That makes it a very small market filled with very picky buyers. In my experience - the guys that are willing to spend serious money for true #1 and #2 Condition examples - - have no interest in refreshing/restoring collectible cars themselves. They will pay for "perfection" and/or very near perfection.. they will simply pass on anything that needs a lot of detail work that takes a lot of time... IMHO - both the very low mileage cars offered recently - are wonderful examples - but both would need a lot of work and perhaps several thousand dollars to bring them up to even current road-worthy and show ready condition. All of which done half-fast - and/or incorrectly - could reduce their value. I doubt offers of much over $18K would be tended this year or next. Even then it would take a serious Enthusiast - with that kind of CASH on hand.... Again a pretty limited group today. Most Enthusiasts that are willing to spend $20+ on a 240Z, want to do it themselves so they know it has been done correctly... sounds like you;-) Just my opinion... Carl B.