Carl Beck

At least as it pertains to the two previous owners, that would be quite possible. I do not believe that they had access to someone like John Williams in Atlanta. That is to say, access to a knowledgeable and experienced mechanic, used to dealing with the flat tops. John had to take them completely apart and clean the varnish out, then readjust etc. Prior to that, I believe the owners simply kept the car to preserve it. Once it had sat for years without being started, it got to the point that it was impossible to restart without major service work. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: Just to make sure I understand which/what "heater hoses" your talking about. First there are outlet hoses, a reducer hose and fixture on the block itself for the heater. Then there are the three inlet/outlet hoses that run to/from the block, to/from the heater core & control valve, and from the control valve to the heater core If you are missing the heater hoses that go through the firewall - to the heater core, Then I would suggest just making a loop out of standard heater hose, and going from the outlet on the block, to the inlet fixture on the block. This would by-pass the heater core altogether. When you get the heater hoses that go though the firewall etc. you can then install them later. Given the very sharp bends on the very end of the heater hoses, that go through the firewll - a attach to the heater control valve - I wouldn't want to attempt to use straight hose in place of them. There isn't much working room under the dash and the hose might crimp/kink. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guy: First let me say that I have more questions at this point than answers. I've received somewhat conflicting data from different sources over the years. Sources with a high degree of creditability and years of personal experience. One reason is that the data from L24's is based on engines that ran in SCCA's "Stock" classes - and were therefore torn down and checked, time after time. So right from the beginning those engines were built to very exacting specifications. With the data from the L28's - that is not the case. For the most part with the L28's we are getting inputs about modified engines - and the data becomes more speciifc to the engine and engine builders. For example: - From various engine builders we get inputs that "deck height", the amount the piston exceeds the cylinder wall in the block is either "0" or 3.69cc - Depending upon the cylinder head gasket used, the volume added to the total volume and the combustion chamber volume can both vary between 7.6cc {stock 88mm L28 gasket} and 13.01cc {2mm thick, with 91mm dia.} for the metal gaskets. - Then of course there is the question about the actual cc's of an altered head/combustion chamber. So I'm hoping that as you work with Z doc - you'll be able to pin down some very specific data related to your current project. In effect ask them to cc the combustion chamber and report the exact value, and ask them specifically what cylinder head gasket they plan to use. All this is something I wish I had the presents of mind to accurately measure and record years ago when I swapped in my first, second and third L28's. My present engine uses Nissan's Flat Tops with a 2cc pop-up and 0.5mm overbore, a 72 E88 head with increased valve size, unshrouded valve seats and the Nissan Slalom Cam Kit {0.475" lift & 275 degrees duration}. Triple Webers and UniLite distributor w/o vacuum advance. At the time we built the engine, we calculated the C/R at about 10.13:1. Runs fine on 93 octane pump gas, not quite so well on 91 octane as the timing has to be retarded a couple of degrees. For the sake of discussion, below are three different ways of calculating the C/R, depending on what was done, and/or what parts were used, and using a "0" deck height. Holding everything else the same - it would seem that the 0.040" overbore raises compression ratio from 10.78:1 to 11.58:1 . Z doc may well be doing other things that will lower that to something closer to the 10:1 your looking for. STOCK 8.5:1 C/R L28 with Flat Tops and P79 Head Swept Volume of Cylinder = 458.9cc Combustion Chamber volume = 53.6cc Gasket Thickness = 7.6cc Deck Height = 0 cc So: 53.3 + 7.6 = 60.9 combustion chamber volume 458.9 + 60.9 = 519.8 total volume 519.8/60.9 = 8.5 : 1 Compression Ratio = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = MODIFIED #1 10.78:1 1mm Overbore and 2mm Milled Head: L28 – Flat Top Pistons (79-83) & 1mm overbore (0.040") Swept Volume of Cylinder = 480.5cc Combustion Chamber volume = 53.6cc minus 11.62cc for 2mm (0.080") shave head.= 41.49cc Gasket Thickness = 7.6cc Deck Height = 0 cc So: 41.49 + 7.6 = 49.09 combustion chamber volume 480.5 +49.09 = 529.59 total volume 529.59 /49.09 = 10.78 : 1 Compression Ratio = = = == == = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = MODIFIED #2 11.58:1 Same as Mod #1 except the block has been decked by 0.020 to assure flatness, or it may be true that the stock L28's pistons do exceed the block deck height by 0.020" to begin with. L28 – Flat Top Pistons (79-83) & 1mm overbore (0.040") Swept Volume of Cylinder = 480.5cc Combustion Chamber volume = 53.6cc minus 11.62cc for 2mm (0.080") shave head.= 41.49cc Gasket Thickness = 7.6cc Deck Height = - 3.69 cc So: 41.49 + 7.6 - 3.69 = 45.4 combustion chamber volume 480.5 + 45.4 = 525.9 total volume 525.9/45.4 = 11.58 : 1 Compression Ratio So if you get a chance to talk to the people at Z doc - see if you can find out what the measured cc's of the combustion chambers are and what head gasket they will use. Also see if you do have pistons with a positive deck height or not, you'll be able to tell once the pistons are installed. I'd also suggest that if you can get the specific data - unlike me, write it down and keep the records. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guy: The reason I was hoping we could verify the combustion chamber volume with an actual measure - is because when I plug the numbers in - I get a C/R of 11.6:1 - - if you are using flat top pistons and stock head gasket. I'm not certain that milling the head 2mm (0.080") removes 11.62cc's however. The reason is that the combustion chamber walls are dished, rather than straight. The other unknown at this point is the type of cylinder head gasket Z doc plans to use.. L28 – Flat Top Pistons (79-83) & 1mm overbore (0.040") Swept Volume of Cylinder = 480.5cc Combustion Chamber volume = 53.6cc minus 11.62cc for 2mm (0.080") shave head.= 41.49cc Gasket Thickness = 7.6cc Deck Height = -3.69cc So: 41.49 + 7.6 - 3.69 = 45.4 combustion chamber volume 480.5 + 45.4 = 525.9 total volume 525.9/45.4 = 11.58 : 1 Compression Ratio To get to 10.0:1 you'd need a combustion chamber volume of 53cc's. So you'd have to pick up about 7.3cc's somewhere. Dished pistons increase combustion chamber volume by about 10.9 cc's. Using a 1mm thick metal head gasket, with a 91mm diameter opening, would increase combustion chamber volume by about 6.5cc. The 2mm thick metal head gasket would add 13.01cc's. Playing with the numbers is fun, but it is better if we have verified numbers to start with. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guy: I'm hoping that The Z doctor would have a Plexiglass cover to fix to the head, through which he would inject a precisely measured amount of fluid into the combustion chambers. It's a fairly simple process that most engine builders use to assure even combustion chamber volumes. One Example - if you google "cc'ing combustion chambers" http://www.cosworthvega.com/cc_an_engine_GEC.html FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guy: Looks great so far... Please Post some pictures of the combustion chambers with the valves installed. If your machine shop cc's the combustion chambers, I'd be interested in knowing what you would up with in the end. regards, Carl B.

Hi IBZINYA: With 90K miles and a repaint - it is no longer in the "Collector" car category. Collector Quality #1 and #2 examples can usually bring $25K to $30K+. The absolute BEST - - all original, with about 650 original miles - went for over $65K. Depending on the quality of the repaint - and the over-all condition of everything else on the car, it is usually easier to resell a Black Pearl than any other stock color in like condition. People that like the 280Z's to begin with, might place a small premium on the rarity of the color. That may result in a grand or two more out of the sale if it hits the market at the right time... I do believe that NADA's values are at present lower than the market outside the Dealer Lots. NADA's "High Retail" is about the same - definition wise - as a mid level #3 Condition car. I've seen 78 280Z's with less than 45K miles, in stock and exceptionally well cared for condition sell for $16K and above pretty easily over the past five years. These are exceptionally low mileage, pure stock, and with no body damage, scratches, dings, dents etc.... With a minor clean-up and good detailing these cars can win Local Club Shows etc. About 85% of the market value is dependent upon the actual condition of the car, and about 15% is dependent upon its location and the sellers willingness to work at selling it. We'd have to have a lot more specific information about that cars condition in order to even put a price range on it.... Nonetheles we can discuss it in general terms. If we say that your friends Black Pearl received a decent repaint ($5K job) - with all trim and glass removed etc {no masking lines etc}... and we say that the Black Pearl paint was mixed to OEM spec.'s... Lets say that the car is as rust free as one would expect a well cared for 280Z to be if it was stored in the Winters etc. - If he paid less than $6,500.00 for it he got a deal..... The Picture makes the car look great!!... If it hadn't been started in 20 years - he can figure on putting a few thousand in it right up front... Easy to spend $600.00 to $850.00 for new OEM injectors alone...then things like rear wheel cylinders, brake and clutch hydraulics, cooling system work, tires etc etc... So as long as he'd got less than $10K in it, by the time it is road worthy... he's in good shape... BTW - I see the rear shade is on the car. The original Racing Mirrors were delivered to the Dealers in the car - in the typical DATSUN box, same as you would have received if you purchased them over the Parts Counter at the time. If they are still in that box - it is quite possible they were never installed at the Dealership. If you get a chance - show us some more pictures of the car - including the engine compartment and interior... the door jams etc. Also tell you friend to see: http://ZHome.com/History/BlackP.htm He should e-mail his information to: RWilliams@cognizant.com Ross maintains a Black Pearl Register - and he can send a lot more current information to the owner. FWIW, Carl B.

I like it alot - Looks great.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: When he said forged pistons and then reduced compression - I thought that he may be thinking of going to a turbo in the future.. FWIW, Carl B.

I wonder if anyone ask her, if she would be interested in being featured in our "Boobs" forumLOL FWIW, Carl B.

Can you show us a Picture? Then tell us if it was a decal, on the inside or outside of the glass? FWIW, Carl B.

pit_crew_guy: Did that decal go on the inside of the glass or on the outside? thanks, Carl B.

I believe that Thrasher had ask about Forged Pistons and did you buy 0.020" (0.5mm) L24 or L28 pistons? FWIW, Carl B

Hi Rich: Ok - found it. OK - that sentence, with its indirect references - - had me thinking of another 70 240-Z that a Father and Son brought to the National Z Car Convention in New York a few years ago. In that case the car actually belonged to the Grandfather, and he had just given it to his Grandson. As I recall it was the light yellow.... with extremely low mileage.. like 28K miles or something... One friend of mine was really torn between offering the Grandson a serious amount of money for the car - or NOT. After talking to the Father and Son, my friend could tell that the car held a great deal of sentimental value to the family and he didn't want to put any pressure on them to sell it, nor did he want to have them regretting the fact that they did or did not sell it later. We talked about the pro's and con's of making the offer for several hours that day... and in the end my friend decided it would be best for them, if he didn't make the offer. Although my friend really wanted that Z, and the offer would have made most people's head spin... I argued that sum of money would have paid for a year or two of college for the Grandson.... or would have been a good downpayment on a home... My friend replied that both of us had worked our way though college, and both of us had bought homes.... but you really can't replace a 240-Z like that.... How true, how true... FWIW, Carl B.

What/Where - "L-Series 240Z section? I don't see anything liike that at the URL above. Carl B.

You might find one on E-Bay...

You can bore an L24 1.5mm.... go 3mm and you are most likely into the water jacket. There is a reason that the L28 was a new casting. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Randy: Good For You!! I'm always happy to see someone get the Ferrari they lust after. I will hope that the members of the Ferrari Club in your area, are as great as the members here in Florida were. Second only to the people you'll find in the Classic Z Car community, the Ferrari Club members were a great group of people to hang out with. {of course there are always one or two exceptions that prove the rule}. No question that then and now - the styling on the 308's is simply beautiful. It just reeks F E R R A R I.... As luck would have it - I just happen to need a good side view of a 308... so I'm going to steal yours... Good luck with it... Carl B.

Hi Paul: Well - - not quite. The Policy states that you can NOT use your Classic Car in lew of your Daily Driver. In effect you can't use your Classic for transportation purposes. As in most of our laws in the U.S. "intent" is a major factor in reaching a legal judgment. Doug has it pretty well pinned down. Classic Cars are NOT used for "transportation purposes". If you intent it to get to work and home that day - then NO the Classic Car Policy offers no coverage. Doesn't really matter if your DD was running or not, because that didn't change your "intent". If your intent was to take your Classic Car to work - to show it to your co-workers, or just to show it off - then YES - your Classic Car Policy provides coverage for Pleasure USE. The average person would say; "what's the difference - in either case you are driving your car to and from work?" The difference is your intent - and the specific words you use when you tell the Insurance Company what happened matter. 1. "Well I was on my way to work and this moron ran a red light and hit the car in front of me, I couldn't stop fast enough so I ran into them both." 2. "It was a beautiful morning, so I decided to take my Classic Car to work for my co-workers to see. On the way this moron ran a red light and hit the car in front of me. As both cars collided and spun directly in front of me, there was no way to avoid them. Make statement #1 to the cop on the scene, or the insurance company - and chance are good that your claim would be denied. There is also a chance that the cop would give you a ticket for "Failure To Maintain An Assured Clear Distance Ahead"... Saying "I couldn't stop fast enough" is admitting that you didn't allow a safe distance from the car ahead.... Make statement #2 to the cop on the scene and the insurance company and chances are good that the claim would be paid. Saying that "there was no way to avoid them" is a statement of the situation, but it is not an admittance of improper behavior on your part... ie not tickets.. Your WORDS matter - to the cops and insurance companies specific words and statements have very specific meanings. They listen for statements of INTENT - - That is why any Lawyer will tell you - the ONLY statement you have to make to a Cop is " I have nothing to say without my lawyer present". Speaking of "intent" - don't get a Classic Car Insurance Policy with the intent of pulling the wool over the insurance companies eyes... If your co-workers tell the investigator that you drive that car to work two or three times a week - you could be in a world of hurt with legal fees, to avoid being charged with insurance fraud.. The insurance companies don't have to "win" to drive you into financial hell... Were I worked for many years - we had "Bring Your Daughter To Work" days, "Bring Your Son To Work" days, and yes - "Bring Your Classic, Collectable and Special Interest Cars To Work" days. FWIW, Carl B.

I'll just put a satellite up-link in the car trailer.... Or better still - find someone with a huge motorhome that already has one... FWIW, Carl B.

I can take a video camera, a portable Mac and we can hook him up live from Atlanta.. He gets a real kick out of video conferences... I'll be looking forward to seeing everyone there... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ron: Yes - I talked to the guys at Grassroots/Classic Motorsports a week or two before this years Mitty - as I was trying at the last minute to make arrangements to get the Z up there - - at my age/with my health I don't like putting anything off for a month, let alone a year... Anyway - we talked about 2010 being for BRE - and I told them I'd do whatever I could to help put them in touch with with Mr. Mason and son etc. At least one of the BRE 510's is still supposed to be in Georgia somewhere - it was still being raced a few years ago. I talked to several guys a few years ago, when I was tracking down/ verifying the Monise roadster here in Florida. Until I found it - the owner of the 46 car thought it was the 44 car. I notified Rob that his history was wrong... I verified it was the 44 car after a discussion with John Morton about the technical details of the car. I was located near Orlando at that time. One of the guys in South Florida bought it and raced it for a time... Then it was shipped out to Les for restoration.. So it will be great to see it again... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ron: I'll be looking forward to that!! BRE & Lotus are a great pair - since BRE raced a Lotus/Ford... FWIW, Carl B.

Petro Canada 94 octane should be fine for anything in the 9:1 to 9.8:1 range with factory cam and proper timing etc.. I hasten to add - as long as the filling station is actually selling what they claim on the pumps... Most mechanics have a machine shop they deal with - without knowing the exact size of the combustion chambers - you have no way of knowing what your C/R is. In that case - Overkill - is a last resort. Adding head gasket thickness is perhaps the least expensive way to go.. I just hope that when you are done - the problem has in fact been too high a C/R... and not simply a case of having the wrong timing curve in an unknow distributor... Here a again, any good mechanic can measure and tell you exactly what you have... IF the mechanic doesn't have a distributor machine, he should know a shop that does.. good luck,... shooting in the dark you'll need it. Carl

True. I've seen two in the past year. I've seen perhaps 4 in the past 4 years. If you bump that number up to say a range of $16K to $16K... the number of cars could go as high at 15 over the past 5 years. The problem is - most of the people that found and purchased such 240-Z's, spent a few thousand traveling and looking at cars that were rejected. If a couple thousand dollars is worth waiting a year or two for - I guess that makes sense. It isn't worth it to me. I'd rather spend the $20K up front, and drive or enjoy the car for the year or two... Nonetheless, it shows us that Supply/Demand do work in the 240-Z market today. There will be 50 $15K to $20K 240-Z's out there, for every 1 $30K-$40K 240Z that comes to market. When was the last time we saw any 240-Z with less than 10K miles - in stock/original condition - right down to the original tires... Personally, I wouldn't sell that car for less than $29K today.. because a serious Collector that loves original condition cars will come along tomorrow and consider that a bargain... They are only original once... FWIW, Carl B.